IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


[2.5 
2.2 


2.0 


1.8 


U    III  1.6 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


£ip 


^"J 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notoa/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inttituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabla  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibiiographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I   Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  restaurAa  at/ou  pallicuMa 


I — I   Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


□   Colourad  maps/ 
Cartas  gAographiquas  an  coulaur 


D 


Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.e..  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


I — I   Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Planchas  at/ou  illustrations  an  coulaur 

Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rali4  avac  d'autras  documants 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  raliura  sarr4e  paut  causar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marga  IntAriaura 

Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  possibia,  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  sa  paut  qua  cartainas  pagas  blanchas  ajouttes 
lors  d'una  rastauration  apparaissant  dans  la  taxta, 
mais,  lorsqua  cala  Atait  possibia.  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  At*  filmAas. 

Additional  commants:/ 
Commantairas  supplAmantairas: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At6  possibia  da  sa  procurar.  Las  dttaiis 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-ttra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dans  la  mAthoda  normala  da  filmaga 
sont  indiqute  ci-dassous. 


D 
D 
D 
SI 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Colourad  pagas/ 
Pagas  da  coulaur 

Pagas  damagad/ 
Pagas  andommagtes 

Pagas  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Pagas  rastaurias  at/ou  palliculAas 

Pagas  discolourad,  stainad  or  foxad/ 
Pagas  dAcolortes,  tachat^as  ou  piqutes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pagas  dAtachtes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  intgala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  material  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  hava  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pagas  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  fauillet  d'errata,  una  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmAes  h  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  Image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  rMuction  indlqu*  ci-dessous. 


Tl 
to 


Tl 

P< 
o1 
fil 


Oi 
bi 
th 
si( 
ot 
fir 

Si4 

or 


n 

sh 
Tl 

wl 

m 

dil 

en 
be 
rig 

ret 
m« 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

/ 

12X                           1«X                           »X                           24X                           28X                           32X 

Tha  copy  filmad  h«r«  has  b««n  raproducad  thanka 
to  tha  o*narosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  filmA  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
gAntroalti  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
poaaibia  consldaring  tha  condition  and  iagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  itaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Las  Imagas  suivantas  ont  At*  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  com^ta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  raxamplaira  filmA,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustratad  imprassion. 


Las  axamplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  en 
papiar  ast  imprimAa  snnt  fiimto  an  commandant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'iilustration.  soit  ^ar  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  an  commandant  par  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comports  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'iilustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comports  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  racordad  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"). 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  la  symbola  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
diffarei^t  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atra 
filmAs  A  das  taux  de  rAduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seui  clichA,  ii  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  da  gauche  A  droita. 
at  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagas  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

H  i 


r* 


The  PALACE  HOTEL,  nccupyinK  the  entire  block  in  the  center  of  Han  Francisco,  is  the  model  Hotel  of  th^ 
world,  it  has  double  the  Hccommodatio  is  of  any  other  hotel  in  the  city.  It  is  thoroughly  tire  and  earthquake- 
proof,  baa  broad,  easy  atairways,  and  five  elevators.  Every  room  is  extra  large,  liijht  and  airy.  The  system  of 
ventilation  is  perlect.  combining  tlue  from  flroplace,  inlet  flue  for  fresh  air  from  outside,  and  outlet  iluo  to  the 
roof.  A  bath  and  closet  anjoin  every  room.  All  rooms  are  easy  of  access  from  broad,  lieht  corridors,  leadinK 
from  the  glats-oovered  court  in  the  center  of  the  bnildinK.  The  central  court,  illuminated  bj^  the  electric  light, 
ita  immense  glass  roof,  broad  balconies  around  it  ex  every  story,  its  carriage  way  and  its  tropical  plains,  is  an  at- 
tractive feature,  one  hitherto  unknown  in  American  Hotels.  (Suests  entertained  on  either  the  American  or  Euro- 
pean plan.  The  Restaurant  Is  an  adjunct  to  the  Hotel,  and  is  the  finest  in  the  city.  Room  with  board,  $3  per  day : 
room  with  board,  $4  per  day;  room  without  board,  SI  per  day  and  upwards. 

Lines  of  horse-cars,  connecting  directly  with  all  principal  streets,  business  centers,  leading  places  of  amuse- 
ment or  resort,  and  all  notable  localities,  constantly  traversing  the  entire  city,  even  to  i  ts  remotest  suburbs,  rim 
within  s  minute's  walk  of  the  Palace.  At  the  neighboring  foot  of  the  oit.v'B  Grand  Central  Avenue,  which 
passes  directly  under  its  northern  front,  are  the  statioiir  and  docks  of  the  Great  Overland  Railway  Terminus,  with 
the  piers  and  slips  of  the  principal  steam  ferries,  which  swiftlv  bridge  the  broad  Bay  iii  ev-ry  habitable  or  pleasura- 
ble direction.  A  few  blocks  south  lie  the  immense  docks  and  basins  of  the  P.  M.  S.  S.  (!o.,  with  their  grand 
fleet  of  Trans-Pacific  Mail  Steamships  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  China,  Japan,  Australia,  India,  and  the  nations 
of  the  Orient. 

Ninety-six  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  square  feet,  or  nearly  two  and  a  quarter  acres,  underlie  the  stupen- 
dous structure  itself,  while  the  sub-sidewalk  extensions  increase  the  basement  area  to  upwards  of  three  acres.  Its 
general  form  is  an  immense,  triplicate,  hollow  quadrangle,  including  one  grand  central  crystal-roofed  garden 
oonrt,  flanked  by  a  lesser  and  parallel  court  on  either  side.  Seven  lofty  stories  surmount  the  deep  and  airy  base- 
mant,  and  through  a  considerable  portion  it  has  eight.  The  lower  story  has  a  height  of  over  twenty-seven  feet : 
the  uppermost,  sixteen.  B'our  artesian  wells,  having  a  tested  capacity  of  IW.OOO  gallons  an  hour,  supply  the  great 
630,(M0  gallon  reservoir  under  the  central  court,  besides  tilling  peven  roof  tanks,  holding  I3U.IHMI  (tallons  more. 
Three  large  steam  flre-puinps  force  water  through  \fi  3-inch  wrought-iron  upright  fire  mains,  reaching  above  the 
roof,  and  distributa  it  through  327  'i'a-inch  hose  bibs,  and  15,00"  feet  of  five-ply  carbolized  lire-hose,  thus  doublv 
and  trebly  commanding  every  inch  of  the  vast  structure  from  roof  to  basement,  within  and  without. 

Five  patent  safety-catch  h,vdraulic  elevators,  runninf;  noiselessly  within  tire-proof  brick  walls,  ascend  even  to 
the  roof  promenades.  Electric  fire-alarms,  self-acting,  instantly  report  at  the  otSce  the  exact  locality  of  any  Are. 
or  even  of  extraordinary  beat  in  any  parlor,  bedroom,  closet,  hall,  passage,  stairway  or  storeroom.  Special  hotel 
watchmen  regularly  patrol  all  iwrts  of  the  building  every  thirty  minutes,  day  and  night.  A  self-acting  and  self- 
ragistering  tell-tale  indicator  instantly  reports  at  the  office  any  neglect  or  omission  of  their  duty.  Besides  all 
these  precautions,  a  flre-proof  iron  staircase  inclosed  in  solid  brick  and  stone,  and  opening  through  iroi  ors, 
upon  every  floor,  ascends  from  liasement  to  roof.    Every  floor  has  its  exclusive  annunciator  and  it.<<  own  lar 

oondnotora,  carrying  all  letters  for  the  post-office  uirectly  to  the  main  letter-box  in  the  general  office.  A  pneu- 
matic dispatch  tube  instantly  conveys  letters,  messages  or  parcels  to  ond  from  any  point  of  the  ditforent  floors. 
The  grand  central  court,  144  by  H4  feet,  has  a  carriage  and  promenade  entrance  through  the  east  front  on  New 
Hontgomery  Street  of  44  feet  width,  expanding  into  a  circular  driveway  fifty-two  feet  in  diametei-,  surrounded 
by  a  marble-tiled  promenade  and  a  tropical  garden  of  rare  exotics,  with  choice  statuary  and  artistic  fountains. 
Within  this  court,  opposite  tbe  main  entrance,  is  the  music  pavilion,  in  which  the  instrumental  band,  exclu- 
sively  attached  to  the  Palace,  render  choice  selections  at  stated  intervals  during  every  afternoon  and  evening. 

Off  the  central  court  open  the  main  entrance  to  the  hotel  office,  li."!  by  .M;  entrances  to  the  brtakfast-rooui, 
110  by  U;  the  grand  dining-room,  IW  by  .W;  the  music  and  luill-room,  6A  by  ,'>,');  the  ladies'  lower  reception 
parlor,  40  by  40;  reading-room  of  the  same  sins;  billiard-rooms,  ftt  by  40;  barber  shop  and  bath-rooms,  40  by 
40;  com  mittee-rooms  and  other  general  apartments,  devoted  to  the  pleasure  or  convenience  of  guests  and 
patrons. 

On  the  second  floor  are  private  dining-rooms,  children's  dining-hall,  and  the  ladies'  drawing-room,  H4  by  40, 

THK  TOTAL  NUMBER  OFROOM8  EXCLUSIVELY  FOR  GIJESTS,  ABOVE  THE  GARDEN  FLOOR,  18 
"M,  moat  of  which  ore  20  feet  tquire;  none  less  than  ',.:  by  16.  They  are  equally  well  finished  and  furnished 
throughout. 

Within  and  without,  in  all  approaches,  appointments  and  belongings,  the  kindly  structure,  far  surpassing, 
not  only  in  size  but  in  grandeur,  all  the  hotels  of  Europe  and  America,  richly  justifies  the  propriety  of  lis 
happily  ohoaen  name-'mB  PALACE  HOTEL. 

A.  D  SHARON,  Lessee. 


THB    BALDWIN. 


THE    BALDWIN, 


THE   LEADING   HOTEL   OF  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CALIFOBNIA. 


This  Hotel  was  completed  and  opened  in  May,  1877,  and  is  conducted  on  the 
American  plan. 

Over  $3,500,000  having  been  expended  by  Mr.  Baldwin  in  its  construction  and  fur- 
uiBhing,  THE  BALDWIN  is  the  most  elegantly  appointed  Hotel  in  the  world. 

Situated  on  Market  street,  at  the  intersection  of  Powell  and  Eddy  Streets,  and 
fronting  on  four  principal  streets  in  the  business  center,  it  is  convenient  of  access  to 
and  from  all  quarters  of  the  city.    Eight  lines  of  Street  Gars  pass  its  doors. 

Hotel  Coaches  and  Carriages  in  waiting  at  all  Steamers  and  Hallway  Depots. 

TOURISTS'  HEADQUABTEBS.  Special  accommodations  for  families  ami  large 
parties. 

FBICES  the  same  as  at  other  firat-chiBS  hotels— $2.50  TO   $6  FEB  DAY. 

H.   H.  PEARSON,         ....  Proprietor 

Formerly  proprietor  of  the  Cosmopolitan,  San  Francisco. 
BEUSH  HABDENBEBGH,  Chief  Clerk.  M.  A.  FKENCH,  Cashier. 


i 


:a. 

the 

"iir- 

nnd 
i  to 

irge 


?1 


ler. 


Examples  of  Hundreds  of  Testimonials. 


NO.    3. 

Satisfactory  Evidence. 

J.  W.  Graham,  Wholesale  Druggist,  of  Austin,  Tex., 
writes.— I  have  been  handling  DR.  WM.  HALL'S  BALSAM 
FOR  THE  LUNGS  for  the  past  year,  and  have  found  it  one 
of  the  most  saleable  medicines  I  nave  ever  had  in  my  house 
for  Coughs,  Golds,  and  even  Consumption,  always  giving  en- 
tire satisfaction.    Please  send  me  another  gross. 

NO.  5. 

Rescued  from  Death. 

William  J.  Coughlin,  of  Somerville,  Mass,  says: — In  the 
fall  of  1876  I  was  taken  with  bleeding  op  lungs  followed  by 
a  severe  cough.  I  lost  my  appetite  and  flesh,  and  was  con- 
fined to  my  bed.  In  1877  I  was  admitted  to  the  Hospital. 
The  doctor  said  I  had  a  hole  in  my  lung  as  big  as  a  half 
dollar.  At  one  time  a  report  went  around  that  I  was  dead. 
I  gave  up  all  hope,  but  a  friend  told  me  of  DR.  WILLIAM 
HALL'S  BALSAM  FOR  THE  LUNGS.  I  got  a  bottle, 
when,  to  my  surprise,  I  commenced  to  feel  better,  and  to- 
day I  feel  better  than  for  three  years  past. 

NO.  36. 

Henry's  Carbolic  Salve. 

The  best  salve  used  in  the  world  for  Cuts,  Bruises,  Piles, 
Sores,  Ulcers,  Salt  Rheum,  Tetter,  Chapped  Hands,  Chill- 
blains,  Corns,  and  all  kinds  of  Skin  Eruptions,  Freckles  and 
Pimples.  The  salve  is  guaranteed  to  give  perfect  satisfac- 
tion in  every  case.  Be  sure  you  get  HENRY'S  CARBOLIC 
SALVE,  us  all  others  are  but  imitations  and  counterfeits. 

NO.  61. 

Why  Will  You  Die  ? 

SCOVILL'S  SARSAPARILLA,  OR  BLOOD  AND 
LIVER  SYRUP,  for  the  cure  of  Scrofulous  Taint,  Rheuma- 
tism, White  Swelling,  Gout,  Goitre,  Consumption,  Bron- 
chitis, Nervous  Debuity,  Malaria,  and  all  diseases  arising 
from  an  impure  condition  of  the  blood.     Certificates  can  be 

E resented  from  many  leading  physicians,  ministers,  and 
eads  of  families  throiighout  the  land,  endorsing  SCOVILL'S 
BLOOD  AND  LIVER  SYRUP.  We  are  constantly  in  re- 
ceipt of  certificates  of  cures  from  the  most  reliable  sources, 
and  we  recommend  it  as  the  best  known  remedy  for  the  cure 
of  the  above  diseas'js. 


YOSBMITE,  "1884." 

Great  Reduction  in  Time!  Only  Four  Days  for  Round  Trip/ 


•3  *  -g  ^. 

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A 


Health  Sceker$\  Touristy'  and  Sportsmen's 


GUIDK 


—TO  THE— 


SEA-SIDE, 


LAKE-SIDE, 


FOOTHILL. 


MOUNTAIN  AND 

MINERAL  SPRING 


Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts 


-OF   THE— 


PACIFIC    COAST, 


Newton  H.  Chittenuen 


(Second  Edition.) 


--Vjl;-^-- 


SAN  FRANCISCO: 

C.  A.  MuRDocK  &  Co.,  Printers, 

J884. 


1  wft^mmmmiKp 


'TPWW^W^ 


XYSl) 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FIRST  EniTION, 


Santa  Babbaba,  Onl.,  April,  1881. 

There  is  probably  no  portion  of  the  world  which  posaesaeB  gieater  natural 
advantages  for  health  and  pleasure  seekers  than  the  United  States. 

Its  vast  territorial  extent,  embraces  a  combination  of  mountains  and 
l)hvius,  rivers  and  valleys,  forests,  lakes  and  sea  coast,  on  a  scale  of  unpar* 
alleled  grandeur  and  interest,  aflbrding  unlimited  range  in  the  choice  of  situa- 
tions as  to  climatic,  scenic  and  social  requirements. 

The  order  of  nature  is  opposed  to  monopoly,  and  distributes  its  gifts  more 
evenly  than  appears  at  first  view. 

The  characteristic  features  of  the  topography,  climate  and  resources  of 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Slopes,  and  the  great  elevated  region  intervening,  are 
so  marked  that  each  division  of  country  becomes  the  sole  possessor  of  certain 
great  advantages,  which  cannot  be  destroyed,  removed  or  counterfeited. 

There  is  no  place  on  either  the  Atlantic  or  Pacific  Coasts  which  can 
match  the  scenery  or  climate  of  the  interior  mountains  and  plains;  no  spot 
in  all  that  immense  region  which  can  satisfy  a  demand  for  sea  air,  sea  food 
and  ocean  breezes;  no  climate  from  Maine  to  the  Qulf  of  Mexico  comparable 
with  that  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Coast;  and  no  place  from  Alaska  to  Mexico 
which  equals  in  all  respects  the  great  popular  watering  places  of  the  East. 
This  great  diversity,  and  wise  distribution  of  natural  advantages,  removes  all 
cause  for  unfair  rivalry,  and  should  lead  to  the  utmost  liberality  between  sec- 
tions and  individuals  specially  interested  in  attracting  and  providing  for  the 
health  and  pleasure  seeking  public.  In  proportion  as  we  increase  in  popula- 
tion, wealth  and  general  information,  and  possess  the  meaps  for  rapid  and 
easy  transit,  the  people  will  more  and  more  bestow  their  patronage  where 
most  deserved  and  best  adapted  to  their  special  wants.  Hitherto  Americans 
have  gone  much  abroad  for  recreation  and  health,  but  it  has  been  mainly  due 
to  the  undeveloped  condition  of  our  own  country.  .The  most  frequented 
watering  places  in  America  have  been  known  to  the  general  public  but  a  few 
years.  Six  years  ago  the  writer  was  accustomed  to  gallop  up  and  down  the 
beach  of  Coney  Island  without  meeting  an  obstruction,  save  an  occasional 
fisherman's  cabin,  where  now  miles  of  hotels  and  caravansaries,  unsurpassed 
in  magnitude  and  excellence  of  accommodation  and  management,  entertain 
tens  and  sometimes  hundreds  of  thousands  of  people  daily  during  the  heated 
teru.  Last  season,  while  camping  at  Ocean  Grove,  New  Jersey — one  of  a 
succession  of  seaside  resorts  extending  from  Sandy  Hook  southward  along  the 
coast  for  over  twenty  miles,  including  Long  Branch,  Asbury  Park  and  Ocean 
Beach — we  were  informed  by  one  of  the  original  owners  of  that  portion  of  the 
shore  that  the  whole  of  that  almost  unbroken  line  of  magnificent  hotels  and 
summer  residences,  now  thronged  with  multitudes  of  visitors  and  sojourners 


from  June  to  September,  was  alt  the  creation  of  less  than  ten  years.  Still 
more  recently  have  the  great  natural  pleasure  resorts  and  sanitariums  of  the 
interior  of  the  continent  and  the  Pacific  Slope  become  practically  accessible. 
Now  that  the  facilities  for  transcontinental  travel  are  so  complete,  a  consider- 
able and  constantly  increasing  number  of  people  from  the  Atlantic  States  will 
seek,  especially  during  the  winter  season,  the  mild  and  healthful  resorts  of 
the  Pac-flc  Coast. 

Health  and  pleasure  seeking  constantly  involves  the  question  of  adapta- 
tion. No  two  persons  were  ever  created  alike  in  their  mental  and  physical 
natures,  and  their  requirements  in  a  state  of  health  or  disease.  All  experience 
is  so  personal,  that  what  we  find  to  be  good  for  us,  affords  a  most  unreliable 
guide  in  determining  the  needs  of  others.  It  is,  therefore,  a  responsibility 
which  no  one  should  assume,  without  the  most  thorough  knowledge  of  the 
subject,  to  give  specific  advice  respecting  those  situations  which  will  best 
promote  the  health  or  happiness  of  any  one.  Our  present  purpose  is  simply 
to  furnish  such  descriptions  of  'he  most  favorably  known  watering  places  und 
health  resorts  of  this  coast  as  will  enable  the  interested  reader  to  form  a  cor- 
rect estimate  of  the  special  advantages  which  they  afford.  N.  H.  0. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


San  Francisco,  Oal.,  November,  1883. 

Since  the  publication  of  the  First  Edition,  I  have  visited  most  of  the 
health  and  pleasure  resorts  of  the  Pacific  Coast  from  Mexico  to  Alaska. 

In  the  meantime,  the  completion  of  two  new  transcontinental  railways 
renders  them  accessible  to  both  tourist  and  invalid. 

Beginning  at  San  Diego,  I  have  followed  the  natural  order  of  description, 
presenting  the  various  places  and  objects  of  interest  as  reached  in  traveling 
northward. 

I  am  under  special  obligations  to  Major  Ben.  0.  Truman,  the  well-known 
brilliant  author  of  "Semi-Tropical  Cidifornia,"  "Occidental  Sketches," 
"The  South  after  the  War,"  "Campaigning  in  Tennessee,"  "Tourists' 
Guides,"  etc.,  etc.,  for  valuable  information  and  cuts  for  this  work. 


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CONTENTS. 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST— Pages  9  to  20. 

8EA-8IDE  HUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORTS  — San  Dikoo,  Page  26; 
National  City,  28  ;  Willmobk  Citv,  43  ;  Santa  Monica,  40  ;  Ventura, 
57  ;  Santa  Babbaba,  71 ;  Montkbky,  110  ;  Hotkl  dbl  Month,  112 ;  Pa- 
cific Gbovk  Retbbat,  117;  Santa  Cbhz,  118;  Camp  Capitola,  180; 
Pehcadkbo,  180 :  Oakland,  23. 

BE  i  SIDE  SUMMER  RESORTS  (North  Coast.)- Yaquina  Bay,  Obkoon, 
Page  238  ;  Tillamook  Bay,  Oregon,  237  ;  Ilwaco,  262 ;  Sea-Vikw,  263  ; 
Shoalwater  Bay,  266 ;  Gray's  Habbor,  269  ;  Pdokt  Sound,  285  ; 
Seattle,  286  ;  New  Tacoma,  287  ;  Olymiia,  W. T.,  289  ;  Victoria, 
B.C.,  296. 

MINERAL  SPRI  Q  RESORTS~Tia  Jpana,  Mexico,  Page  30  ;  Aerowhbad, 
34 ;  FuLTO.  Sulphur  Wells,  41 ;  Matilija,  61  ;  Santa  Barbara,  70 
Mountain  Glen,  79  ;  Las  Cruoes,  93  ;  Paso  de  Robles,  105  ;  Paraiso 
170 ;  GiLBoY,  174 ;  Napa,  175 ;  White  Sulphub,  177  ;  ^Etna,  177 
Calwtoga,  178  ;  Conobess,  180 ;  Wii,bur,  190  ;  Hough,  192 ;  Allen, 
193 ;  Babti,ett,  193  ;  Witter,  195  ;  Pearson,  196  ;  Highland,  198 
Seioleb,  200  ;  Howard,  200  ;  Bonanza,  201 ;  Adams,  202  ;  Harbin,  203 
Andkeson,  204  ;  Mills,  205  ;  Skaogs,  207  ;  Litton,  208  ;  Mark  West 
210  ;  Bybon,  210 ;  Upper  Soda,  213  ;  Payton,  Obeoon,  218 ;  Bodaville 
219  ;  Aurora,  219  ;  Wilhoit,  220. 

INTERIOR  SUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORTS  (See  Mineral  Springs.) 
— Yuma,  Pago  164  ;  Riverside,  34  ;  San  Bernardino,  34 ;  San  Gabriel< 
37 ;  Sierra  Madre  Villa,  38  :  Passadena,  39  :  Ojai  Valley,  60. 

MOUNTAIN  AND  LAKE  SUMMER  RESORTS,— Yosemite,  Page  124  ;  Bio 
Treks,  Mariposa,  137;  Calaveras,  138;  Santa  Cruz,  180;  Wash- 
burn's Wawona  Hotel,  12!) ;  Lake  Tahoe,  142  ;  Donneb  Lake,  142  ; 
Independence  Lake,  163  ;  Webber  Lake,  164 ;  Blue  Lakes,  197  ; 
Geysers,  206  ;  Sisson's,  213. 

EXCURSIONS  from  San  Diego,  Pages  30  to  33 ;  Los  Angeles,  40  to  43  ; 
Santa  Barbara,  77  to  103 ;  San  Francisco,  124  to  188 ;  Portland, 
224 1<?  295  ;  Victoria,  B.  C,  298  to  311. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Pagn. 

1.    BIBD'8-EYE  VIEW  OF  SAN  FBANCI80O 20  ^ 

1.    VIEW  OF  SAN  DIEOO 24*' 

a.    VIEW  OF  ARROWHEAD  BPlUNOa :ia    -l^  *' 

4.     KOBE'S  OBANOE  OROVE    BAN  ay  T^RTEI 37      '       '^ 

.V     SIERRA  MADRE  VIT.LA 38 

0.     BANTA  HONIOA  HOTEL  ANU  FULT<    i     iULPHlIR  WELLS 40 

7.  HOME  IN  SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA 411 

8.  A  HOME  IN  SANTA  BARBARA    C(^uN'lY Oil 

9.  BIQ  GRAPE  VINE,  MONTEri  1      li'.t 

10.  SANTA  BARBARA  MIHHION 72 

11.  "THE  ARLINGTON,"  OF  SANTA  BAIl.iARA 7:1 

12.  A  SOUTHERN  OALIFCINIA  Ak'IAH v.         HI 

13.  COLONEL  flOLLISTKR 87 

U.    THE  HOME  OP  THE  ORANOr.  CLIVli  AND  APRICOT UO 

18.     MAP  OF  MONTEBEY lOU 

16.  MISSION  SAN    CARLOS Ill 

17.  THE  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE li;i 

18.  GROUNDS  OF  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE 1I.'5 

19.  PACIFin  GROVE  RETREAT 117 

20.  NATURAL  BBIDGE  NEAB  SANTA  CBITZ 120 

21.  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  YOSEMITE 134 

22.  BARNARD'S  YOSEMITE  FALI^  HOTEL 132 

23.-    MIRROR  LAKE 133 

24.  LIBERTY   CAP 1S4 

25.  VERNAL  PALLS  LADDERS 13,1 

26.  THE  GREAT  WAWONA 139 

27.  CUNNINGHAM'S  CABIN,  MARIPOSA  GROVE 140 

28.  BIG  TREES 141 

29.  THE  GREAT  C.  P.  B.  B.  TRANSFER  BOAT  SOLANO 142 

80.    SUMMER  SCENE  IN  THE  SIERRAS 144 

31.  TRUCKEE  HOTEL 146 

32.  TAHOE  CITY 148 

38.    LAKE  TAHOK 149 

34.  LOAD  OF  LOGS 151 

35.  EMERALD  LAKE 152 

86.    TAHOE  HOT  BPBINGS IM 

37.  DONNEB  LAKE 102 

38.  8.  P.B.  R.  HOTEL,  YUMA 16S 

39.  MAP  8.  P.  R.  R..  NORTHERN  DIVISION .171 

40.  PARAISO  HOT  MINERAL  SPRINGS , 172 

41.  NAPA  PAGODA  SPRING 176 

42.  HARBOR  VIEW  PABK 182 

48,    WOODWABD'S  'GARDENS 186 

44.     ASTORIA 228 

46,    SALMON  FISHING 233 

46.  SALMON  FISHING 236 

47.  SEATTLE 280 

48.  VICTORIA 296 

49.  GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  B.  C 298 

50.  E8QUIMAULT,  B.  0 300 


EL  CAPITAN-3300  FEET  HIOB. 


Entered  nccording  to  Act  of  CotigresB  in  tlio  j'onr  18S3, 

By  NEWTON  H.  CHITTENDEN, 

In  the  office  of  the  Librnrinn  of  Cotip-ess  at  WdHliington,  D.  C. 


Tl]e  Cliniate  of  tl^e  Pacific  Coast. 


The  Pacific  Coast  region,  lying  within  the  boundaries  of 
the  United  States,  extends  over  1200  miles  by  the  shora 
line,  from  north  to  south,  and  from  200  to  350  miles  inland 
to  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Cascade  Ranges  of  Mountains. 
This  great  scope  of  country  embraces  the  grandest  moun- 
tains and  rivers,  and  most  extensive  forests,  plains,  and  val- 
leys, on  the  continent,  and  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
portions  of  the  world.  In  sublime  and  beautiful  scenery, 
variety  and  excellence  of  climate,  and  productions,  it  has  no 
parallel.  It  affords  an  inexhaustible  field  for  interesting  and 
profitable  travel  and  research,  and  abounds  in  localities 
possessing  in  the  highest  degree  those  natural  advantages 
most  condu(!ive  to  the  health  and  enjoyment  of  the  visitor. 
Ranging  through  20  degrees  of  latitude,  and  from  the  sea  level 
to  heights  of  15,-000  feet;  with  hundreds  of  mountains, 
thousands  of  valleys,  dense  coast  forests  bathing  in  six  feet  of 
ruin,  thirsty  interior  desert  wastes  receiving  only  four  inches, 
summits  upon  which  winter  reigns,  overlooking  valleys 
smiling  in  perpetual  sunshine  and  summer,  where  snow  and 
ice  never  come,  the  orange  ripens  and  the  tenderest  flowers 
bloom  in  January,  there  is  no  situation  or  atmospheric  con- 
dition, which  varying  altitudes,  degrees  of  humidity,  heat 
and  cold  and  exposure  can  produce,  that  it  does  not  contain. 
Though  the  characteristic  features  of  the  immediate  coast 
climate,  and  that  of  the  country  lying  between  the  Coast 
Range  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  warrants  the  usual, 
general  description,  that  the  former  is  even,  cool  and  moist, 
and  the  latter  variable,  hot  and  dry,  it  conveys  a  very  inade- 
quate idea  of  the  local  peculiarities  of  climate,  occasioned 
by  the  modifying  influences  of  ocean  winds  and  currents, 
elevation,  and  the  character  and  extent  of  protection  and 
exposure. 


10 


TEE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


Neither  do  the  rules  of  climatology,  based  upon  observa- 
tions in  other  parts  of  the  world,  apply  to  this  coast.  Ac- 
cording to  these  calculations,  the  mean  annual  temperature 
diminishes  in  going  northward  at  the  rate  of  one  degree  for 
every  degree  of  latitude.  This  would  show  a  variation  of 
about  17  degrees  between  the  temperature  of  San  Diego, 
California,  and  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  in  Washington 
Territory.  The  mean  annual  temperature  at  Fort  Steila- 
coom,  Washington  Territory,  is  61  degrees;  at  Portland, 
Oregon,  53  degrees,  and  at  San  Francisco,  56  degrees,  show- 
ing a  difference  of  only  5  degrees  along  a  coast  line  extending 
more  than  800  miles.  This*  uniformity  of  temperature  is  due 
to  the  ocean  current  from  the  north,  and  the  north  winds 
which  prevail  from  April  to  October.  From  San  Francisco 
southward  to  San  Diego,  a  distance  of  480  miles,  the  coast 
bears  eastward  more  than  250  miles,  removing  it  sufficiently 
from  the  ocean  current  and  winds  which  cool  the  upper 
coast,  to  produce  a  marked  change  in  its  climate.  The  mean 
temperature  at  Monterey  rises  to  57°,  at  Santa  Barbara  to  60°, 
at  Santa  Monica  to  61°,  and  San  Diego  to  62°.  This  portion 
of  the  coast,  known  as  Southern  California,  possesses  the 
most  equable  and  delightful  climate  in  the  world.  The 
mean  difference  in  temperature  between  January  and  July  is 
only  8  degrees  at  San  Diego,  12  degrees  at  Los  Angeles,  7 
degrees  at  Santa  Monica,  10  degrees  at  Santa  Barbara,  6  de- 
grees at  Monterey,  and  8  degrees  at  San  Francisco.  As  we 
recede  from  the  coast,  and  the  influence  of  the  ocean  currents 
and  winds,  the  climate  is  mainly  governed  by  elevation  and 
exposure,  and  varies,  in  a  marked  degree,  according  to  the 
configaration  of  the  country.  The  summers  are  considera- 
bly hotter  in  the  interior  valleys  than  on  the  coast,  and  the 
winters  colder  in  proportion,  as  we  ascend  the  mountains. 

Going  northward  from  San  Diego,  through  the  interior 
valleys  of  the  Bear,  Poway,  San  Jacinto,  San  Bernardino, 
San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  for  a  distance  of  over  500 
miles,  the  temperature  averages  about  56  degrees  in  winter, 
and  70  degrees  in  summer,  ranging  from  the  extremes  of  120 
degrees  to  29  degrees.  The  valleys  surrounding  the  bay  of 
San  Francisco  are  under  the  joint  influence  of  the  ocean 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


11 


winds,  which  daily  sweep  inland  through  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  of  the  interior  climate.  Here  may  be  found  the  most 
agreeable  and  salubrious  atmospheric  conditions.  Passing 
iut»  Oregon,  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains  creates  a  third 
marked  climatic  division,  which  extends  to  Puget  Sound. 
The  average  temperature  in  Western  Oregon  is  52  degrees 
in  Spring,  67  degrees  in  Summer,  63  degrees  in  Autumn, 
and  39  degrees  in  Winter,  with  extremes  from  95  degrees  to 
25  degrees.  In  Eastern  Oregon,  it  averages  53  degrees  in 
Spring,  70  degrees  in  Summer,  62  degrees  in  Autumn,  and 
35  degrees  in  Winter,  ranging  from  103  to  14  degrees.  The 
rainy  season  throughout  this  whole  coast  region  begins  late 
in  October,  or  early  in  November,  and  continues  with  more 
or  less  of  showery  weather,  according  to  locality,  until  the 
ensuing  May.  Then,  from  May  to  October,  the  dry  season 
has  full  sway,  a  shower  during  that  period,  especially  south 
of  San  Francisco,  being  an  unusual  occurrence.  So  far  as 
the  amount  of  rainfall  is  concerned,  throughout  Southern 
California,  the  rainy  season  simply  signifies  that  during  that 
period  exclusively,  not  exceeding  18  inches  may  fall. 

The  average  annual  rainfall  at  San  Diego  is  only  10. 43 
inches.  Following  up  the  coast  to  San  Francisco,  it  in- 
creases at  the  rate  of  about2  inches  for  every  100  miles.  Santa 
Monica  receives  about  13  inches,  Santa  Barbara  15  inches, 
Monterey  17  inches,  and  San  Francisco  21  inches.  The 
Coast  Range  of  mountains,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  from 
2000  to  4000  feet,  robs  the  ocean  rain-freighted  clouds  of 
all  their  precious  burden  before  i-eaching  the  interior  plains 
and  valleys.  At  Fort  Yuma,  on  the  Colorado  river  and 
desert,  the  mean  annual  rainfall  is  only  2.64  inches.  Among 
the  little  valleys  extending  from  San  Diego  to  the  San  Ja- 
cinto mountains,  from  7  to  9  inches;  in  the  valley  of  San 
Bernardino,  and  at  Colton,  Riverside  and  Cocomungo,  10 
inches;  advancir,' toward  the  coast,  Spadra  and  El  Monte 
receive  about  11  inches,  and  Los  Angeles,  situated  20  miles 
from  the  ocean,  about  14  inches.  Crossing  the  San  Bernar- 
dino mountains  to  the  Mojave  plains,  the  yearly  rainfall  is 
only  from  3  to  4  inches,  and  from  thence  up  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley  as  far  as  Goshen,  in  latitude  36  degrees,  ranges  from 


12 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


3  to  6  inches;  from  thence  northward  it  increases  to  15.10 
incites  at  Stockton,  18.23  inches  at  Sacramento.  Along  the 
upper  Sacramento  River  and  its  tributaries  in  Yuba,  Placer 
and  Nevada  counties,  it  sometimes  reaches  the  maximum  of 
126  inches,  as  during  the  winter  of  1881,  causing  the  most 
disastrous  floods.  Returning  toward  the  coast,  the  counties 
surrounding  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  receive  from  15  to  25 
inches,  and  those  on  the  north  the  greatest  amount.  Now, 
proceeding  northward  again  into  Western  Oregon,  we  find 
an  average  of  45  inches;  crossing  the  Cascade  Range  into 
Eastern  Oregon,  it  falls  to  15  inches;  back  to  Astoria,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  it  rises  to  70  inches;  and 
over  on  the  great  Columbia  plains,  in  Eastern  Washington 
Territory,  the  annual  rainfall  is  about  15  inches,  and  from 
thence  westward,  along  the  shores  of  Pnget  Sound  and  into 
the  heart  of  the  great  forests  of  Western  Washington,  we 
find  from  60  to  70  inches.  The  snowfall  is  confined  almost 
exclusively  to  the  country  lying  east  of  the  Cascade  Range 
in  Washington  and  Oregon,  and  to  eastern  and  northeastern 
California,  high  up  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierras. 
Here  it  is  usually  light,  except  on  the  elevated  valleys  and 
mountain  summits,  where  it  falls  to  a  great  depth.  In  ordi- 
nary' seasons  stock  ranges  at  large  throughout  the  winter 
without  shelter,  subsisting  entirely  upon  the  native  grasseSc 
In  Western  Washington  tlie  snowfall  rarely  exceeds  a  few 
inches  at  one  time,  except  on  the  mountain  tops,  and  sel- 
dom remains  long  enough  for  sleighing.  Western  Oreg  ■. 
has  on  an  average  about  ten  snowy  days  during  the  winter. 
Snow  very  rarely  falls  in  large  quantities  or  remains  long  on 
the  ground.  A  small  portion  of  northwestern  California, 
especially  in  Siskiyou  County,  is  within  the  snow  range. 
Mount  Shasta,  13,000  feet  above  the  sea  level,  is  always 
snow-capped.  Sometimes  it  whitens  the  foothills  and  ele- 
vated valleys  further  south,  and  once  during  the  winter  of 
1866,  and  again  in  1882,  covered  the  hills  about  San  Fran- 
cisco until  near  mid-day.  But  from  thence  southward  to  San 
Diego  no  snow  is  ever  seen,  except  on  the  summits  of  the 
mountains,  and  sometimes  for  a  few  hours  among  the  upper 
foothills. 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


18 


upper 


Frosts  prevail  over  this  whole  coast  region  during  the 
winter  months,  and  in  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory  are 
not  uncommon  in  midsummer.  In  Southern  California  they 
are  seldom  so  severe  as  to  inflict  much  injury  upon  the  grow- 
ing crops  or  fruits.  Many  sheltered  localities  are  altogether 
exempt,  except  at  long  intervals.  A  strong  northwest  trade 
wind  prevails,  especially  during  the  months  of  July  and 
August,  along  the  coast  from  Point  Concepcion,  in  latitude 
34"  north,  to  Washington  Territory.  It  comes  heavily  laden 
with  fog,  which  thickly  envelopes  the  immediate  shore  until 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  elevated  plains  and 
valleys  east  of  the  Cascade  Rtinge  are  exposed,  especially  in 
summer,  to  high  winds  from  the  southwest.  What  are 
known  as  "Chenook"  winds  occasionally  sweep  with  great 
force  from  the  southwest,  in  winter,  up  the  channel  of  the 
Columbia  River,  and  over  the  great  plains  of  the  upper 
basil).  It  is  a  wai-m  current  which  melts  in  a  few  hours  all 
the  snow  in  its  course.  The  prevailing  winds  on  the  south- 
ern coast  are  west  and  northwesterly  from  March  to  Septem- 
ber, and  southeasterly  during  the  remainder  ot  the  year. 
It  is  sometimes  visited  by  hot,  drying,  north  and  east  winds 
from  the  great  interior  plains  and  deserts.  About  half  a 
dozen  "northers"  may  be  expected  during  the  year,  con- 
tinuing from  one  to  three  days.  They  seldom  attain  the 
velocity  of  a  gale,  but  are  the  most  disagreeable  feature  of 
the  climate. 

A  division  of  the  Pacific  Coast  region,  according  to 
prominent  climatic  characteristics  would  therefore  be  about 
as  follows  :  Commencing  on  the  north,  the  first  division 
would  embrace  all  that  portion  lying  between  the  Pacific 
Ocean  and  the  Cascade  and  Coast  ranges  of  mountains  and 
latitudes  37 J"'  and  38  .  It  possesses  a  comparatively  mild 
climate,  not  unlike  that  of  England,  moist,  cool  and  crisp, 
and  somewhat  harsh  upon  the  immediate  coast.  Fires  are 
comfortable  throughout  the  year,  and  the  same  clothing 
worn  in  January  is  not  uncomfortable  in  June.  During  the 
six  months  rainy  season,  north  of  latitude  40'^,  while  the 
probabilities  are  in  favor  of  rain  during  every  twenty-four 
hours,    intervals  of   bright  sunny  weather  are  not  uncom- 


14 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


mon.  The  heat  of  summer  is  rarely  oppressive,  and  the 
nights  are  always  cool  and  refreshing.  The  abundant 
rains  and  moderate  fall  of  winter  temperature,  and  the 
uniformly  rich  soils  are  exceedingly  favorable  to  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  all  kinds  of  grasses  and  hardy  fruits,  plants  and 
vegetables.  Volunteer  crops  of  cereals,  sometimes  equal- 
ing in  yield  the  first  harvest,  are  common.  The  average 
summer  temperature  is  too  low  for  Indian  corn,  tomatoes, 
or  semi-tropic  fruits.  The  climate  is  salubrious  for  vigor- 
ous constitutions,  and  free  from  malaria,  except  along  the 
river  bottoms. 

A  second  division  includes  the  remainder  of  the  coast, 
from  latitude  37J^  southward,  lying  within  the  United 
States.  Mildness,  equability,  sunshine  and  salubrity  are 
its  marked  peculiarities.  Its  severest  storms,  except  au 
occasional  norther,  are  comparatively  mild.  Winter  is  the 
season  of  greatest  activity,  growth  and  enjoyment.  The 
tenderest  flowers  blossom  the  year  round.  In  my  own 
garden  three-year-old  tomato  vines  have  been  covered  with 
fruit  and  blossoms  all  winter,  and  Indian  corn  has  been 
growing.  The  summers  are  hot  and  dry,  but  not  oppress- 
ive. The  orange,  fig  and  other  semi-tropic  fruits  find  here  a 
congenial  atmosphere.  Soon  after  the  winter  rains  all  veg- 
etation springs  into  life,  and  in  April  the  country  is  a 
garden  of  luxuriant  growth.  In  June  the  hills  begin  to 
turn  brown,  tlie  early  harvest  commences,  and  until  Novem- 
ber following,  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  is  barren  and 
uninviting. 

A  third  climatic  division  embraces  all  that  great  interior 
lying  midway  between  the  Cascade  and  Coast  Ranges  of 
mountains,  extending  from  the  plains  of  the  Columbia,  in 
Eastern  Washington,  south  through  Eastern  Oregon,  and 
down  the  great  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin, 
to  San  Diego,  California.  Eemoved,  in  a  great  measure, 
beyond  the  cooling  and  equalizing  influence  of  the  ocean 
winds,  dryness  throughout  the  year,  and  the  extreme  heat  of 
the  mid-day  sun,  are  its  marked  pec ul?ari ties.  Its  special 
adaptations  are  to  wheat  and  stock  raising  in  the  northern 
portions,  wheat,  fruit,  and  stock  raising  in  the  central,  and 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC   COAST. 


15 


wheat,  barley,  Indian  corn,  semi-tropic  fruits  and  stock  rais- 
ing in  the  southern. 

The  foothills,  valleys,  and  elevated  table  lands  lying 
within  the  snow  limits  along  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierras, 
constitute  a  fourth  climatic  division.  Its  distinctive  features 
are  a  much  lower  winter  temperature,  snow  storms  of  greater 
or  less  severity,  according  to  altitude,  and  a  greater  rainfall. 
Farming,  fruit  growing,  stock  raising,  mining  and  lumbering 
are  the  chief  pursuits  of  this  region. 

Heavy  gales  are  not  uncommon  in  winter  along  the  upper 
coast;  tornadoes  are  rare  visitations;  electric  storms  are  al- 
most unknown  south  of  latitude  34°,  and  north  of  that  do  not 
occur  on  an  average  oftener  than  twice  a  year.  Water-spouts 
sometimes  burnt  in  the  mountain  canons  and  overwhelm  the 
unfortunate  camper,  but  this  is  a  very  exceptional  phenome- 
non. Slight  shocks  of  earthquake  are  felt  somewhe,re  on  the 
coast  almost  every  year,  but  they  are  usually  quite  harmless. 
Cool,  refreshing  nights  are  a  pleasant  feature  of  this  whole 
coast  climate,  except  a  comparatively  small  portion  in  the 
Colorado  desert.  During  a  residence  of  several  years,  I 
have  seen  but  very  few  mosquitoes,  except  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  permanently  wet  and  marshy  places.  House  flies 
are  not  more  numerous  than  in  other  sections  of  the  United 
States.  Fleas  are  native  to  the  country,  and  troublesome  if 
neglected,  but,  with  care  and  nea^uess,  occasion  little  annoy- 
ance. The  poisonous  tarantula  and  centipede  may  be  found 
upon  search,  but  are  seldom  thought  of  after  a  short  resi- 
dence. I  have  seen  but  few  rattlesnakes,  during  quite  ex- 
tensive travels,  on  foot  as  well  as  on  horseback,  through 
wild,  unfrequented  portions  of  the  country. 

There  has  been,  heretofore,  so  much  poetic  extravagance 
indulged  in,  both  in  praise  and  detraction  of  the  climate  and 
resources  of  Southern  California,  that  the  Eastern  public 
has  been  puzzled  to  form  any  satisfactory  opinion  upon  the 
subject.  In  descriptive  writing,  there  is  considerable  temp- 
tation for  those  ambitions  for  a  literary  reputation,  or  more 
careful  to  please  and  secure  personal  ends  than  to  present  the 
truth — to  "write  up"  beyond  the  merits  of  their  subject. 
It  is  fax-  better,  in  every  way,  to  point  out  the  drawbacks  of 


""  ^ 


I' 


16 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PAGIFIG  COAST. 


a  locality,  than  to  conceal  them  from  the  public,  to  surely 
reach  it  in  an  exaggerated  form,  through  the  complaints  of 
the  disappointed.  It  is  not  a  question  of  the  perfection  of 
climate  anywhere,  but  tlie  greatest  aggregate  of  climatic  and 
other  advantages,  with  the  fewest  disadvantages  for  the 
largest  number.  The  prosperity  of  the  country  and  the 
people  attracted  hither  are  so  intimately  associated,  that 
both  alike  demand  that  all  questions  pertaining  to  its  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages  as  a  sanitarium  should  be  treated 
with  perfect  frankness.  Opinions  are  valuable,  in  proportion 
to  the  experience,  candor  and  judgment  of  their  autliors. 
When,  emanating  from  respectable  sources,  they  uniformly 
agree  upon  any  matter,  to  that  extent  they  are  entitled  to 
much  consideration.  I  have  taken  considerable  paius  to 
consult  the  best  authorities  upon  the  adaptation  of  the 
climate  of  Southern  California  for  the  cure  of  consumptives. 
They  are  unanimous  in  the  opinion  that  it  is  unsurpassed  in  the 
ivorld  for  the  healing  of  diseased  lungs.  My  own  experience 
in  all  the  climates  of  this  country,  except  the  Polar,  and  ob- 
servations derived  from  a  personal  acquaintance  with  a  large 
number  of  consumptives,  agrees  with  the  general  verdict. 

While  living  in  New  York,  before  the  publication  of  this 
work  was  thought  of,  I  wrote  as  follows : 

"Invalids  seeking  situations  possessing  the  most  beneficial 
climatic  conditions  for  them,  are  beset  with  even  greater 
difficulties  than  those  which  perplex  the  average  home- 
seeker.  Those  difficulties  are  increased  in  proportion  to 
the  inability  of  the  sufferer,  from  lack  of  sufficient  strength 
or  means  to  make  experiments,  involving  much  travel  and 
expense,  or  fciie  necessity  of  selecting  a  location  affording 
opportunities  for  earning  a  livelihood.  Florida,  Minnesota, 
Colorado,  and  California  each  have  their  interested  advo- 
cates, asserting,  with  equal  positiveness,  the  superior  healing 
qualities  of  their  respective  climates,  especially  for  all  dis- 
eases of  the  lungs  and  respiratory  organs.  Such  is  human 
nature,  that  you  may  generally  anticipate  the  advice  you 
will  receive,  by  consulting  residents  of  localities  supposed 
to  possess  the  sanitary  advantages  which  you  desire.  Re- 
sults, rather  than  theories  and  opinions,  are  the  only  safe 


THE  CLIMATE  OB    HIE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


17 


guideH  in  ascertaining  tlie  comparative  advautuges  of  Htini- 
tariums,  and  such  results  must  be  obtained  from  entirely 
disinterested  sources. 

A  dry,  equable  climate,  cool  rather  than  hot,  having  the 
least  daily,  as  well  as  annual,  range  of  temperature,  the  most 
sunshine,  the  greatest  exemption  from  storms,  and  as  tonic 
as  the  patient  will  bear,  affords  the  most  favorable  climatic 
conditions  for  all  throat,  bronchial,  and  lung  diseases.  The 
consumptive's  greatest  hope  of  recovery  lies  in  taking  all  the 
out-door  exercise  possible  without  iujury,  in  the  sunshine,  in  a 
dry,  pure,  stimulating  atmospliere.  The  climate  of  Florida, 
at  certain  seasons  and  places,  affords  relief  to  many  consump- 
tives; but,  during  a  considerable  portion  of  the  year,  it  is  so 
hot,  humid,  and  enervating,  that,  instead  of  exerting  any  heal- 
ing, strengthening  influence  upon  diseased  lungs,  it  proves  in- 
jurious totiiem.  Its  nearness  to  the  East  gives  it  advantages 
as  a  temporary  resort  for  all  classes  of  its  invalids  who  desire 
to  escape  the  inclemency  of  Northern  winters,  bnt  its  oppor- 
tunities for  profitable  business  are  too  limited  to  invite  tlie 
permanent  settlement  of  those  who  find  its  climate  beneficial. 
The  dry,  pure,  stimulating  air  of  Minnesota  is  very  favorable 
for  consumptives  from  May  until  November,  especially  in 
the  eastei-n  and  timber-sheltered  portions,  but  they  should 
avoid  its  long,  severe,  stormy  winters,  except  in  cases  where 
the  disease  is  in  its  incipient  stages,  and  the  vitality  of  the 
person  affected  exceptionally  good.  Colorado  possesses  a 
still  dryer  climate  than  Minnesota,  and  by  reason  of  its 
greater  altitude,  is  more  beneficial  for  asthmatics.  It  also 
contains  muuy  localities  where  consumptives  may  be  ben- 
efited by  a  permanent  residence.  Portions  of  Arizona,  New 
Mexico  and  Utah  are  well  adapted,  so  far  as  climate  is  con- 
cerned, for  the  permanent  settlement  of  all  sufferers  from 
bronchial  and  lung  diseases.  But  Southern  California  prob- 
ably affords  the  most  perfect  conditions  of  climate,  combined 
with  other  advantages,  for  a  home  for  consumptives,  of  any 
portion  of  North  America.  These  are  a  dry,  pure,  equable, 
stimulating  atmosphere,  the  most  sunshine,  the  greatest 
choice  of  situations,  as  to  elevation,  humidity  and  exposure, 
in  conjunction  with  superior  advantages  for  engaging  in  light, 
pleasant  and  profitable  occupations." 


18 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  PAOIFIV  (XJAST. 


So,  while  the  climate  of  other  portions  of  the  United 
States,  at  certain  seasons,  may  possess,  to  an  equal  degree, 
the  healing  influence  of  the  air  and  sunshine  of  this  Southern 
coast,  either  the  heat  of  summer,  or  the  cold  of  winter,  ren- 
der them  unfit  for  the  permanent  residence  of  the  consump- 
tive. There  are  only  a  few  days  during  the  year  in  Southern 
California  when  the  most  delicate  person  need  keep  in  doors 
on  account  of  the  weather. 

This  is  a  happy  land  for  children  and  all  young  animals. 
They  are  uniformly  large,  active,  and  healthy.  They  live  in 
the  pure  air  and  sunshine,  their  great  necessity  and  delight. 
During  the  past  winter  I  have  traveled  upwards  of  a  thousand 
miles  in  an  open  wagon,  or  on  horseback,  through  Santa 
Barbara,  Ventura,  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego  counties, 
sleeping  in  the  open  air,  under  a  slight  shelter  tent,  with  the 
greatest  comfort,  with  only  one  day's  detention  on  account  of 
rain  or  storms.  I  have  camped  out,  more  or  less,  for  over 
twenty  years,  and  five  years  continuously  during  the  war,  and 
in  many  climates,  including  those  of  Texas,  Florida,  Colo- 
rado and  Minnesota,  but  have  found  none  so  favorable  to 
tent  life,  at  all  seasons,  as  Southern  California.  And  yet  it 
is  far  from  perfection  at  all  times  and  places.  A  visitor  ar- 
riving for  the  first  time,  in  a  hot  and  dusty  town  of  the  inte- 
rior, in  midsummer,  and  looking  over  the  parched  plains  and 
foothills  destitute  of  a  single  green  thing,  and  returning,  with- 
out going  further,  or  remaining  longer,  sees  the  worst  and  is 
greatly  disappointed.  Should  he  arrive  in  winter,  when 
something  green  and  blossoming  and  beautiful  greets  the 
eye  everywhere,  he  sees  it  in  its  best  robes,  and  is  car- 
ried away  with  enthusiasm.  Califoriiia  may  be  compared  to 
a  rich  eccentric  genius,  a  many  sided  character  abounding  in 
excellent  qualities  and  not  without  bad  ones,  who  can  only 
be  judged  after  a  long  acquaintance.  We  are  generally 
pretty  severe  critics  when  we  go  abroad  for  health  or  recrea- 
tion. We  may  leave  the  worst  climate  in  the  world,  and,  if 
we  don't  find  a  perfect  one,  are  apt  to  complain.  Those  vis- 
iting the  watering  places  and  health  resorts  of  this  coast) 
who  have  frequented  the  great  popular  watering  places  of 
the  Atlantic  seaboard,  must  not  expect  to  find,  in  this  com- 


TUE  CLIMATE  OF  TUE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


19 


paratively  new  country,  outside  of  the  principal  cities,  the 
same  extent  and  excellence  of  accomraodution  and  service, 
in  all  respects,  ivhich  they  have  been  accustomed  to  receive 
there. 

San  Francisco,  the  Pacific  Coast  terminus  of  both  trans- 
continental railways,  is  naturally  the  objective  point  of  a 
large  portion  of  travel  to  this  coast.  Its  inhabitants  do  not 
boast  of  their  climate,  which,  thouf<;h  equable,  is  too  harsh 
for  feeble  constitutions;  but  they  are  reasonably  proud  of 
their  hotels,  which  are  among  the  most  magnificent  in  the 
world.  I  know  of  no  city  in  this  country  where  the  hotel 
aud  restaurant  fare  is  so  uniformly  excellent  in  quality  and 
reasonable  in  price.  At  the  Palace,  Baldwin,  Russ  House, 
Lick  House,  Occidental  and  many  other  hotels,  the  most 
particular  guest  will  find  every  reasonable  want  satisfied.  So 
the  Pacific  Ocean  House  of  Santa  Cruz,  Hotel  Del  Monte 
of  Monterey,  the  Arlington  of  Santa  Barbara,  the  Sierra 
Madre  Villa  of  San  Gabriel,  and  the  Horton  House  of  San 
Diego,  are  all  large,  first-class  hotel  establishments. 

Each  of  the  watering  places  and  health  resorts  hereafter 
mentioned  possesses  some  advantages  as  such,  peculiarly 
and  exclusively  its  own,  specially  recommending  it  to  the 
patronage  of  certain  classes  of  health  and  pleasure-seekers; 
and  for  those  tourists  and  invalids  who,  for  any  reason,  de- 
sire to  avoid  them  all  and  "rough  it"  in  their  own  way, 
choosing  their  own  companions  and  outfit,  camping  at  the 
seaside,  among  the  foothills,  or  in  the  mountain  fastnesses, 
as  health  or  inclination  leads  them,  there  is  no  more  favora- 
ble climate  or  interet  ting  field  of  travel  under  the  sun.  The 
grandeur  and  beauty  of  its  scenery,  the  brightness  of  its 
skies,  mildness,  equability  and  salubrity  of  its  climate,  and 
the  excellence  and  variety  of  its  productions  have  never  been 
exaggerated. 


\ 


CALIFORNIA. 


Ciiliforuiu  i)robal)ly  posHeHses  u  groator  aggregate  of 
natural  and  valuable  resourceH  than  any  other  ecjual  area  of 
the  American  Continent.  A  pastoral  paradise,  gold  lields 
among  the  richest  in  the  world,  the  husbandman  most  lib- 
erally rewarded,  field,  orchard  and  vi'M^yard  yielding  boun- 
tiful harvests  of  superior  (ixcellence  nearly  every  product 
of  the  soil,  scenery  of  matchless  randeur  and  beauty, 
rounding  up  the  measure  of  its  blessings  with  one  of  the 
most  genial  and  salubrious  climates  in  the  world.  Descending 
the  Pacific  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  by  the  C. 
P.  R.  R.,  the  pioDeer  transcontinental  railway,  in  December, 
1873,  direct  from  snow  and  ice-bound  Minnesota,  I  was  first 
ushered  into  this  glorious  country.  Green  iiolds,  blooming 
orchards  and  gardens,  sunshine  and  beauty  gladdened  my 
feasting  eyes  all  the  way  to 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  the  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
A  wonderful  city  is  San  Francisco,  remarkable  for  its  rapid 
growth,  the  enterprise  and  wealth  of  its  citizens,  ])alace 
hotels  and  palace  residences,  luxurious  and  fast  living, 
and  surrounding  places  and  objects  of  great  interest . 

Founded  in  1850,  upon  gold,  centrally  situated  on  the  best 
harbor  of  the  coast,  commanding  the  principal  trade  of  this 
region,  keeping  i)ii,ce  with  the  development  of  succeeding  in- 
dustries, her  population  in  1883  numbers  about  280,000,  worth 
$250,000,000,  owning  30,000  buildings.  Palatial  mansicms 
crown  the  (mce  unsightly  sand  hills;  her  hotels  are  the 
most  magnificent  in  the  world;  her  public  schools  cost- 
ing $1,000,000,  a  hundred  churches,  and  numerous  libra- 
ries, museums,  theaters  and  parks,  liberally  provide  for  the 
instruction  and  amusement  of  the  people.  Daily  swept  by 
the  ocean  breezc^s,  the  ci'mate  of  San  Francisco,  though 
equable,  is  somewhat  harsh,  but  stimulating  and  healthy. 


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SAN  FRANOISGO. 


21 


22 


CALIFORNIA. 


Woolen  clothing  is  comfortable  most  of  the  year.  Within 
and  near  the  city,  the  Palace  Hotel,  The  Baldwin,  Wood- 
ward's Gardens,  Presidio,  the  Chinese  Quarter,  Cable  Roads, 
Golden  Gate  Park,  and  Cliff  House,  are  objects  and  places 
of  great  interest. 


M 


Sun  Francisco  contains  some  of  the  most  magnificent 
blocks  and  largest  business  houses  in  this  country.  The 
Safe  Deposit  and  Trust  Company's  building  is  probably  the 
most  perfect  in  the  world  for  the  '"ir,»ose  designed.  The 
great  book,  stationery,  publishing  and  manufacturing  estab- 
lishment of  A.  L.  Bancroft  it  Co.  is  one  of  the  most  com- 
plete in  the  United  States.  The  cable  roads  are  the  wonder 
of  all  visitors. 


.  OAKLAND  AS  A  SUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORT. 

No  city  in  this  country  possesses  a  greater  aggregate 
of  attractions,  both  for  a  summer  and  winter  resort,  than 
Oakland. 

The  city  itself  is  very  beautiful,  the  surrounding  country 
charming;  climate,  the  perfection  of  equability  and  salu- 
brity the  year  round;  the  people  intelligent,  sociable  and 
refined;  religious  and  educational  advantages  excellent,  and 
opportunities  for  pleasure  and  recreation,  riding,  boating, 
fishing,  hunting,  bathing,  and  attending  theatricals,  lec- 
tures, etc.,  unsurpassed. 

The  facilities  for  rapid  transit  with  San  Francisco  and 
the  neighboring  towns  are  most  complete.  Half -hourly  trains 
and  magnificent  ferry-boats  run  between  Oakland  and  San 
Francisco. 

Added  to  all  of  these  attractions  are  hotel  accommoda- 
tions of  the  most  superior  character. 

THE  TUBES  AND  GALINDO  HOTELS,  under  the 
proprietorship  and  management  of  Mr.  J.  M.  Luwlor,  are 
in   every  respect  first- class  establishments. 

THE    TUBES    HOTEL, 

Erected  by  Hiram  Tubbs,  Esq.,  is  a  magnificent  structure, 
occupying  a  whole  block  of  ground,  at  the  corner  of  Fifth 
Avenue  and  Twelfth  Street,  East  Oakland,  35  minutes  from 
San  Francisco. 

It  is  built  in  modern  style,  with  broad,  sunny  verandas, 
spacious  halls  and  stairways,  with  over  200  elegant  apart- 
ments, perfectly  appointed  throughout,  and  surrounded  by 
beautiful  green  lawns,  ornamental  trees  and  blooming  flower 
gardens. 

Splendid  macadamized  roads  extend  for  miles  in  all 
directions. 

Charming  Lake  Merritt,  affording  excellent  boating,  is 
within  five  minutes'  walk. 

Street  cars,  running  to  all  parts  of  the  city,  pass  in  front. 

Designed  and  conducted  for  that  special  purpose,  it 
aflfords  one  of  the  most  delightful  resorts  on  the  continent 
for  families,  tourists  and  others,  seeking  the  quiet  and  re- 
spectability of  home  life  with  first-class  hotel  accommoda- 
tions. 

THE    GALINDO    HOTEL, 

A  large,  elegant  building,  finely  appointed  throughout,  is 
situated  on  Eighth  Street,  near  Broadway,  convenient  to  all 
street  car  and  railway  lines.  Its  superior  table,  perfect 
attention  and  reasonable  rates,  have  given  it  a  great  reputa- 
tion throughout  the  country. 

Health-seekers  and  tourists,  single  or  by  families,  will  find 
the  Galindo  a  most  enjoyable,  home-like  place. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


28 


A  radius  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  embraces  more 
that  is  grand  and  beautiful  in  nature  and  art  than  can  be 
found  in  any  other  country. 

Five  miles  across  the  bay  lies  Oakland,  the  Brooklyn  of 
San  Francisco,  a  beautiful  city  of  35,000  inhabitants,  pos- 
sessing a  delightful  climate,  fine  churches,  excellent  educa- 
tional institutions,  splendid  residences,  gardens  and  drives. 


CALIFOBNIA  SAFE  DEPOSIT  AND  TRUST  CO.'S  BUILDING. 

J.  0.  FRY,  PRESIDINT  ;      O.  R    THOMPtON,  TREASURER  :     WILLIAM  OUNNINQHAM.  SECRETARY. 


The  railway  depot  and  ferry  house  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  is  an  immense  and  magnificent  structure,  over  1,000 
feet  in  length,  its  foundations  covering  an  area  of  four  acres. 

Piedmont,  Alameda  and  Berkeley  are  charming  places 


24 


CALIFORNIA. 


in  the  neighborhood — the  latter  containing  tho  State  Uni- 
versity.  Han  Bafael,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Tamalpais,  about 
fifty  minutes  from  San  Francisco,  is  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful places  on  the  coast  for  residence  and  summer  or  winter 
resort.  The  great  watering  places  of  Monterey,  Santa 
Cruz  and  Pescadero,  and  San  Jose,  the  "Garden  City,"  to 


9  g 

<  I 

a    S 

o 

w   5 

H    5 


be  hereafter  more  fully  noticed,  are  all  within  au  easy  drty's 
ride  southward.  The  wonders  of  the  Yosemite,  of  the  Hig 
Trees  of  Calaveras  and  Mariposa,  the  Geysers  and  Petrified 
Forests,  as  well  as  the  famous  mountain  resorts  of  Lakes 
Tahoe,  Donner,  Weber  and  Independence,  requiring  more 
extended  excursions,  will  be  described  in  their  proper  order. 


tate  Uni- 
iis,  iibout 
;  delight- 
jv  winter 
5y,  Santa 
City,"  to 


2  5 

9  s 


as.y  d«y'R 
f  the  Big- 
Petrified 
of  Lakes 
ng  more 
er  order. 


PABT  I. 


CALIFORNIA 


Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts. 


SAN  DIEOO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


For  flrat-olasB  Hotel  AooommodationL— go  to  the  "Hobton 
HovsB,  W.  E.  Hadl«y,  proprietor. 

Bankiiur  Bueln^SS— Conaolidated  Bank  of  San  Diego,  comer  Fifth 
and  G  streete.  Capital,  $200,000.  O.  S.  Witherby,  President;  Levi  Chase, 
Vice-President;  Bryant  Howard,' Cashier. 

Baths— Turkish  and  Hot  Sea  Water— J-  V.  Mumford,  Fifth 
street,  between  C  and  D. 

Baths- Swimminff  Pioneer  "Sea  Nymph"— Pacific  Coasts.  S. 
Co's  Wharf,  W.  W,  Collier,  proprietor. 

Book  and  Job  Printinjf— San  Diego  Union,  (Daily  and  Weekly,) 
Douglas  Guun,  proprietor. 

Books  and  Stationery,  Wall  Paper,  Window  Glass  and  Fancy 
Goods— Established  1869.     A.  Schneider,  pronrietor. 

Boots  and  Shoes— Philadelphia  Boot  and  Shoe  Store,  Mcintosh  k 
Llewelyn,  Fifth  street. 

Curiosities  and  Sea  Shells  (Pacific  Coast)— Frick  ft  Sons,  6th  St. 

Crockery,  Qlaesware,  Ci«rars,  etc.- Palace  Crockery  Store,  E. 
Boiler,  proprietor.  Fifth  street. 

DrUfiTS  and  Chemicals— Charles  A.  Chase,  comer  Fifth  and  F  sts. 

Dentist- D.  Cave,  Fifth  street. 

Dry  Goods—  Marston's,  Fifth  street,  near  Post  OflSce. 

Express— Wells,  Fargo— Sixth  and  G  sts.    J.  W.  Thompson,  agt. 

Fashion  Livery  and  Feed  Stables— Hinton  &  Gordon,  comer 
Second  and  D  streets. 

Furnishing  Goods — Rockfellow  ft  Co.,  corner  Fifth  and  F  streets. 

Forwarding:,  Shipping  and  Commission  Merchant— Dealer 
in  Honey,  Wheat/CJoal,  etc.     A.  Wentacher,  German  Consul,  Fifth  street. 

General  Merchandise,  Honey  and  Beeswax — Hamilton  ft  Co. 

Hardware,  Farm  Machinery,  Groceries  and  General  Merchandise 
— Graendike  ft  Co.,  comer  Sixth  and  H  streets. 

Hair-Dressing  Saloon— First-class  Enamel  Baths— Charles  Snider, 
proprietor,  Fifth  street. 

Photographic  Views— J.  A.  Shoriff,  comer  Fifth  and  E  sts. 

Pianos  and  Organs— For  Sale  and  Bent,  also  Bepairing— Blackmer 
ft  Schneider,  Tttth  street. 

Real  Bstate— Morse,  Noell  ft  Wlhaley,  Bank  building,  Plasa. 

Pacific  Coaat  Steamship  Co. — J.  H.  Simpson,  agent.  Office  at 
Company's  wharf,  foot  of  Fifth  street. 


SAN  DIEQO. 


25 


e  "HOBTON 


I  F  street*. 


Confining  our  attention  to  the  health  and  pleasure  re- 
sorts of  the  Pacific  Coast  north  of  latitude  31°,  and  following 
the  order  of  description  indicated, 

SAN  DIEGO,  the  extreme  southwestern  city  of  the  Union, 
deserves  our  first  consideration.  Three  hundred  and  forty 
years  ago  Cabrillo,  the  Spanish  navigator,  discovered  the 
beautiful  bay  of  San  Diego,  by  him  called  Port  San  Miguel. 
Sixty  years  later,  Viscayno,  by  direction  of  King  Philip,  sur- 
veyed and  named  it  San  Diego.  One  hundred  and  sixty 
years  then  elapsed  when  Father  Francis  Junipero  Serra  be- 
came the  pioneer  of  civilization  in  California,  by  founding 
here  the  first  of  the  Missions,  which  in  succeeding  years 
were  established  upon  the  choicest  locations  along  the 
coast  for  500  miles  northward.  The  natives,  at  first  hos- 
tile, were  soon  subdued  and  utilized,  orchards  and  vine- 
yards were  planted,  a  grove  of  bearing  olives  and  two 
towering  palm  trees  still  witnessing  the  intelligence  and  en- 
terprising spirit  of  the  Fathers. 

Upon  this  historic  ground,  in  latitude  32°  N.,  482  miles 
south  of  San  Francisco,  and  about  13  miles  north  of  the  boun- 
dary line  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  gradually 
sloping  from  the  beautiful  harbor,  lies  the  handsome  city  of 
San  Diego.  It  contains  a  population  of  about  3,000,  chiefly 
American-born  citizens,  exceptionally  intelligent  and  dis- 
tinguished for  their  abiding  faith  in  the  future  of  their 
chosen  home. 

A  magnificent  public  school  building  occupies  a  command- 
ing situation,  overlooking  the  city.  The  fine  County  Court 
House  and  the  Horton  House  next  engage  the  attention . 
Besides,  there  are  many  well-built  blocks  of  brick  and 
stone,  and  handsome  residences,  surrounded  with  beautiful 
lawns,  flower  gardens  and  orchards  of  semi-tropical  fruits. 

Fifth  Street,  the  principal  business  thoroughfare,  ex- 
tends from  the  harbor,  through  the  cential  portion  of  the 
town,  back  to  the  gently  rising  hills.  Here  I  was  surprised 
to  see,  at  Hamilton  &  Co.'s,  the  most  extetisive  stock  of  gen- 
eral merchandise  south  of  San  Francisco,  except  at  Los 
Angeles.    The  city  is  well  provided  with  churches,  schools 


96 


CALIFORNIA. 


and  reading  rooms,  an  active  Board  of  Trade,  a  historioal 
society,  gas,  prater,  and  real  estate  agents.  The  hurbor  of 
San   Diego  is  not  only  far  sr^        ^  to  any  other  on  the 


southern   coast,  but  i'^^ 


silent  without    comparison. 


accessible,  safe  and  commodious.  Captain  C.  B.  Johnson, 
of  the  Orizaba,  an  experienced  and  able  navigator,  familiar 
with  the  great  harbors  of  Europe,  as  well  as  of  this  coun- 
try, who  has  sailed  in  and  out  of  it,  without  accident,  every 
few  days  for  the  past  eight  years,  says  it  is  one  of  the  best 
he  has  ever  seen,  with  a  good  roadstead,  anchorage  and 
permanent  channels. 

The  bold  headland  of  Point  Loma,  upwards  of  600  feet 
in  height,  projects  far  out  to  sea,  forming  an  effectual  bar- 
rier against  the  northwest  winds  and  seas.  A.  narrow  penin- 
sula, extending  for  miles  on  the  southwest,  so  completes  the 
land-lock,  that  small  boats  ply  the  harbor  in  safety,  when 
severe  storms  are  raging  outside.  Deep-draft  ships  enter  at 
all  times,  and  lie  at  the  wharves  or  at  anchor  in  perfect  se- 
curity. Ten  miles  in  length,  and  with  a  deep-water  channel 
from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide  in  the  nar- 
rowest places,  there  is  ample  room  for  all  the  demands  of  a 
large  coaiTierce 

Tht>  cViriate  of  San  Diego  is  probably  unsurpassed  in 
the  wor^fi  for  the  combined  excellences  of  almost  perpetual 
sunshiiv^  and  summer  without  enervating  heat,  dryness 
without  irritation,  equability  and  salubrity.  The  cold, 
harsh  winds  which  sweep  over  the  north  coast,  pass  San 
Diego  untouched  75  miles  at  sea.  A  gentle  sea  ^  reeze  flows 
inland  during  the  day,  tempering  the  heated  air  from  the  in- 
terior to  a  delicious  softness.  The  nights  are  almost  always 
sufficiently  cool  for  refreshing  sleep,  and  the  heat  of  mid- 
summer never  oppressive. 

Flowers  bloom  throughout  the  year,  frosts  are  rarely 
seen,  and  snow  unknown  below  the  base  of  the  distant 
mountains.  Exempt  from  malarial  fevers,  tornadoes  and 
thunder  storms,  there  is  probably  no  more  perfect  climate. 
The  average  annual  rainfall  is  9.59;  rainy  days,  40.5; 
mean  temperature  of  January,  57°;  July,  65";  difference,  8°. 
San  Diego  contains  one  of  the  best  hotels  on  the  Pacific 
Ooasi. 


NATIONAL  oirr 


27 


storioal 
rbor  of 
on  the 
)ari8on, 
}hnson, 
familiar 
9  coun- 
t,  everj 
he  best 
ige  and 

600  feet 
lal  bar- 
e  penin- 
etes  the 
;y,  when 
enter  at 
rfeot  se- 
channel 
;he  nar- 
nds  of  fy 

assed  in 
erpetual 
dryness 
he  cold, 
)ass  San 
eze  flows 
m  the  in- 
3t  always 
t  of  mid- 
re  rarely 
3  distant 
does  and 
t  climate. 
ys,  40.5; 
rence,  8°. 
le  Pacific 


The  Horton  House,  under  the  proprietorship  and 
management  of  W.  E.  Hadley,  Esq.,  is,  in  all  respects,  a  first- 
class  establishment.  A  large,  well-built,  imposing  structure, 
occupying  a  central  situation,  convenient  to  depots  and 
wharves,  and  business  houses,  it  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  harbor  and  mountains. 

The  rooms  are  handsomely  famished,  large  and  light, 
provided  throughout  with  water,  gas,  bells,  closets,  and  all 
the  modern  improvements.  The  stairs  and  hall-ways  are 
ample,  parlors,  dining,  reading  and  billiard  rooms,  spacious, 
comfortable  and  convenient. 

The  depot  of  the  California  Southern  Pacific  Bailroad  is 
only  three  blocks  distant,  and  the  dock  of  the  Pacific  Coast 
steamers  within  five  minutes'  walk,  though  carriages  from 
the  hoiise  meet  all  trains  and  steamers. 

The  sheltered  waters  of  the  iiarl)or  afford  the  best  boat- 
ing, fishing  and  sea  bathing  on  the  Southern  Coast,  for  which 
excellent  facilities  are  provided.  The  old  Mission  Church 
and  orchard,  National  City,  the  "Monument,"  Tia  Juana 
Springs,  El  Tejon,  Strawberry,  and  other  rich  valleys,  are 
all  within  a  few  hours  drive. 

NATIONAL  CITY,  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  Southern 
California  Bailroad,  and  Southwestern  Transcontinental 
Railway  System,  is  very  pleasantly  situated  immediately  on 
the  shore  of  the  splendid  harbor,  four  miles  below  the  city  of 
San  Diego.  The  location  is  an  admirable  one,  sloping  grad- 
ually toward  the  bay,  but  sufficient  for  thorough  drainage. 
Here  the  company  have  already  made  extensive  improve- 
ments, comprising  a  wharf,  depot,  warehouses,  etc.,  and  are 
daily  running  trains  126  miles  to  Colton,  where  connection  is 
made  with  the  Southern  Pacific  and  all  points  on  the  conti- 
nent. A  commodious  and  excellent  hotel  and  sever;>l  hand- 
some residences  have  been  erected  since  my  first  visit  three 
years  ago. 

The  San  Diego  Land  and  Town  Company,  with  principal 
office  pt  National  City,  own  about  60  square  miles  of  country 
bordering  on  the  bay,  and  extending  from  seven  to  eight 
miles  back  therefrom,  which  is  now  offered  in  tracts  to  suit, 


11 


28 


CALIFORNIA. 


I 


upon  six  years'  oredit,  if  desired,  with  interest  at  seven  per 
cent. 

These  lands  embrace  portions  of  the  great  Bancbo  de  la 
Naoion  and  Otay,  the  former  owned  by  the  Kimball  brothers, 
Frank  A.  and  Warren  C,  the  pioneers  of  National  City, 
whose  elegant  residences  and  grounds  will  first  attract  the 
attention  of  the  visitor.  The  title  is  United  States  patent, 
and  the  lands  among  the  choicest  in  this  region,  growing,  in 
great  perfection,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  figs,  apricots, 
peaches,  pears,  apples,  and  many  other  fruits. 

While  the  future  of  San  Diego  and  National  City  is,  to  a 
considerable  extent,  dependent  upon  the  utilization  of  their 
excellent  harbor  for  the  purposes  of  foreign  commerce,  they 
have  other  great  resources  in  the  infancy  of  their  develop- 
ment, which  will  ultimately  build  up  a  flourishing  city  at  the 
op.ly  practical  seaport  along  400  miles  of  coast. 

SAN  DIEGO  COUNTY  alone  is  larger  thou  the  State  of 
Massachusetts,  containing  an  area  of  15,156  square  miles,  or 
9.580,000  acres,  from  which,  after  making  liberol  deductions 
for  mountain  ".vd  desert  wastes,  there  will  remain,  at  least, 
5,000,000  acres  of  available  land,  capa'  le,  considering  the 
manifold  productions  and  industries  of  this  region,  of  sup- 
porting many  times  its  present  populiition. 

After  twenty  years  of  experiment,  the  capacities  and 
value  of  this  Southern  country  are  just  beginning  to  be  re- 
alized and  appreciated.  Its  general  aspect,  especially  along 
the  immediate  coast  during  the  summer  months,  is  barren 
and  forbidding,  in  striking  contrast  with  the  green  fields  and 
foliage  of  the  Atlantic  S</ates. 

Originally  held  valueless  except  for  grazing  purp'  ■ , 
or  where  freely  watered  by  irrigation,  it  has  been  graduuilj' 
demonstrated  that  large  areas  will,  in  ordinary  seasons, 
produce  the  most  excellent  and  abundant  crops  of  grain, 
cereals,  and  fruit,  withort  any  irrigation,  and  th»i,t,  even 
upon  the  dry  mesas  and  foothills,  thorough  cultivation  is  so 
complete  a  substitute  for  vater,  that  the  most  gratifying  re- 
sults are  obtained  by  the  use  of  well  and  urt«)sian  supplies. 
So  rapid  and  luxuriant  are  the  growtlis  in  ti;e  vegetable 


wmtmmmmmrrtmmtm 


SAN  DIEQO   COUNTY. 


29 


kingdom  that,  in  a  few  years,  the  most  unsightly  places  are 
converted  into  beautiful  homes,  amidst  shady  groves,  blos- 
soming orchards  and  gardens. 

Two  mountain  chains  traverse  the  county  in  a  northwest- 
erly direction,  the  San  Jacinto  and  Coast  Ranges.  That 
portion  lying  east  of  the  San  Jacinto  mountains  is  a  hot, 
sandy  waste,  belonging  to  the  Colorado  desert.  The  country 
between  these  mountains  and  the  Coast  Range,  though  much 
broken,  embraces  numerous  fertile  valleys  and  arable  slopes 
and  mesas,  and  extensive  and  excellent  stock  and  bee  ranges. 
The  higher  elevations,  and  many  of  the  canons  and  foothill 
benches  are  timbered  with  live  oak,  cottonwood,  sycamore, 
and  willow,  growing  along  the  bed  of  the  streams.  Riding 
all  through  this  interior  section  three  years  ago,  I  was  sur- 
prised at  the  yield  and  excellence  of  crops  grown  without  ir- 
rigation. It  abounds  with  game,  especially  deer,  rabbit  and 
quail,  the  latter  often  seen  by  the  hundreds. 

West  of  the  coast  mountains  to  the  sea,  though  still  a 
rugged,  broken  region,  the  productive  area  materially  in- 
creases, the  arable  valleys,  mesas  and  foothills  are  more 
extensive,  streams  more  numerous,  and  rainfall  greater. 
Along  the  Tia  Juana,  Sweetwater,  Saa  Diego,  San  Ber- 
nardino, Banta  Margarita  and  Temecula,  which  flow  to  the 
Rfla  in  winter,  a)'e  considerable  bodies  of  very  choice  lands, 
growing  everything  generally  without  irrigation. 

The  El  Cajon  Valley  is  fai^;'^*  ^  for  its  fertility,  and  the 
Bear,  Poway  and  others,  are  /try  rich  and  productive. 
The  soils  are  of  various  composition,  a  fine  alluvial  prevail- 
ing in  the  lower  valleys,  and  a  reddish  loam  underlaid  with  a 
clay  adobe  upon  the  high  lands.  While  growing  in  great 
perfection  most  cereals,  roots  and  fruits,  tho  orange,  raisin 
grape  and  apricot  promise  the  richest  rewards  to  the  hus- 
bandman. I  have  visited  all  of  the  principal  orange  groves, 
vineyards  and  orchards  on  the  southern  coast,  and  have 
found  no  oranges,  raisins  and  apricots  superior  to  those 
raised  by  Higgins  and  others,  on  thy  National  Ranch,  and 
in  the  valley  of  tho  Cajon.  The  population  of  San  Diego 
County  is  abou*:  14,000,  or  one  to  the  square  mile.  Only 
about  15,000  acres  are  under  cultivation,  yet  it  has  pro- 


80 


UALIFORNIA. 


duced  in  a  single  season  over  200,000  bushels  of  grain, 
5,000  pounds  of  baiter  and  cheese,  465,420  pounds  of  wool, 
besides  a  large  quantity  of  fruit. 

This  is  the  greatest  honey  producing  country  in  the  world . 
San  Diego's  exportations  for  1878,  amount  to  1,490,34<J 
pounds. 

There  are  about  190,000  sheep,  18,000  horned  cattle, 
5000  horses,  600  mules,  and  2500  hogs  in  the  cc  anty.  Its 
real  estate  and  improvements  are  assessed  a-  ?3,     ''  '^00. 

An  extensive  gold  field,  though  but  litUc  ti*5V;ijped,  is 
yielding  over  1400,000  annually. 

EXCURSIONS  FROM   SAN  DIEGO. 

Trip  No.  1. — Hor»p)yack  to  Tia  Jaana  Hot  Sulphur  Springs, 
in  Lower  California,.     Round  Trip,  30  miles. 

THE  TIA  JUANA  HOT  SULPHUR  SPRINGS  are  sit- 
uated in  the  Tia  Jnana  Valley,  Lower  California,  about  14 
miles  southeast  of  San  Diego,  two  miles  beyond  the  bound- 
ary line  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  Resorted  to 
by  the  natives  from  their  earliest  traditions,  and  known  to  th^; 
whites  since  theiv  first  occupation  of  the  country, they  »''!<:• 
first  improved  by  Mr.  Lane  about  five  years  ago,  and  o,j<  ut-l 
to  public  patronage.  There  are  four  springs  at  p  es  ivj- 
developed,  ranging  in  temperature  from  116'-'  to  120*^',  '.n 
which  sulphur  and  iron  predominate.  They  are  highly 
recommended  for  rheumatism,  and  all  blood  and  skin  dis- 
eases. There  is  a  comfortable  hotel,  with  accommodations  Tor 
18  guests,  good  bathing  facilities,  including  the  ^ost  hot 
sand  baths  I  have  visited.  Messrs.  J.  M.  Moore  and  John 
H.  Johnson  are  the  present  proprietors.  The  charge  is  $9 
per  week,  including  everything.  A  tri-weekly  stit  runs 
from  San  Diego  to  the  Springs.  Unlike  most  valu  b'.  ?  raio- 
eral  waters,  they  are  on  the  open  plain,  with  good  :j  'b 
leading  thereto.  For  ten  miles  I  rode  within  sight  vt  the 
beautiful  harbor,  through  National  City,  past  Capt.  Robin- 
son's fine  country  seat,  the  ;  ■  it  worI;.i  aud  Chinese  gardens, 
when  turning  gradually  «W'iy  (xDri  flit  >cean,  I  entered  the 
valley  of  the  Tia  Juat:a,  and  soon  crossed  the  line  into  Mex- 


.:^j^ 


EXCURSIONS   FROM  SAX  DIEGO. 


81 


ico.  Twu  miles  up  the  Tia  Juana  Greek,  through  a  Mexican 
settlement,  brought  me  to  the  Springs.  During  the  night 
my  horse  broke  loose,  and  while  I  was  enjoying  a  luxurious 
bath  and  refreshing  sleep,  the  old  fellow  was  coolly  march- 
ing back  to  his  stall  in  San  Diego.  Bising  at  5  o'clock  as 
usual,  and  finding  it  gone,  I  questioned  the  Chinese  cook, 
the  only  other  person  astir: 

"  Where  you  get  him  ?  "  "  San  Diego  Stable. "  "  Stable 
horse  sabe  heap;  he  go  back  sure."  Carefully  examining 
the  road  for  a  short  distance,  I  recognized  the  animal's 
homeward  bound  tracks.  There  was  no  other  horse  obtain- 
able, and  having  engaged  passage  by  steamer  to  sail  that 
day,  I  returned  on  foot.  Tendering  the  keeper  of  the  Pa- 
cific Stable  two  dollars,  the  price  agreed  upon,  he  returned 
one  dollar,  which  I  note  as  an  act  characteristic  of  a  true 
Calif  ornian. 


Trip  No.  2. — By  the  California  Soiitkern  Railway,  to  Colton, 
San  Bernardino  County,  via  San  Luis  Bey,  Temccida, 
San  Jacinto  ami  Riverside.     Round  trip,  254  miles. 

San  Diego  is  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  Southern  Cali- 
fornia Railroad,  now  in  operation  127  miles  northward,  to  a 
junction  with  the  Southern  Pacific  at  Colton,  60  miles  east 
of  Los  Angeles.  Important  extensions  eastward,  through 
rich  mining,  pastoral  and  agricultural  regions,  are  contem- 
plated. Bailroads  are  the  most  important  agencies  in  the 
amazing  development  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  this 
road  marks  a  new  era  in  the  settlement  and  industrial 
growth  of  San  Diego  County.  It  crosses  the  county  in  a 
northerly  direction,  through  the  San  Margarita  Valley, 
Temecula  Canon,  and  acros.^  the  plains  of  San  Jacinto. 

San  Diego,  Old  Town,  Selwyn,  Cordero,  26  miles;  En- 
cinitas,  35  miles:  Stuart's,  41  miles;  Fiazier's,  44  miles; 
San  Luis  Rey,  or  Ocean  Side,  47  miles ;  Ysidora,  51 
miles;  De  Luz,  60  miles;  Fallbrook,  66  miles;  Temecula, 
78  miles;  Pinacate,  103  miles;  San  Jacinto,  116  miles; 
Riverside,  122  miles;  Colton,  126  miles,  are  the  principal 
settlements  and  stations  on  the  line.      Crossing  the  dry  bed 


82 


CALIFORNIA. 


of  the  San  Diego  River,  just  beyond  Old  Town,  it  follows 
naar  the  ocean  shore  for  over  40  miles. 

Encinitas,  on  the  Cottonwood,  is  attracting  the  attention 
of  home  and  health  seekers. 


i       ! 


THE  OLD  MISSION  OF  SAN  LUIS  KEY,  founded  in 
'"  '8,  one  of  the  largest  and  best  built  on  the  coast,  is  about 

ae  and  a  half  miles  from  the  San  Luis  Key  Station,  or 
Ocean  Side.  This  interesting  relic  of  our  first  civilization  is 
picturesquely  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  beautiful  valley 
of  that  name,  its  massive  six-foot  walls  slowly  crumbling 
back  to  earth  again.  On  a  former  visit  I  regretted  to  learn 
that  large  quantities  of  its  masoury  had  been  carried  away 
by  the  neighboring  settlers  for  building  purposes. 

These  old  Spanish  Missions  should  not  only  be  spared 
such  barbarous  destruction,  but  repaired  and  preserved  as 
our  most  interesting  historical  relics. 

Ocean  Side  is  destined  to  become  the  popular  watering- 
place  of  the  interior  country.  A  magnificent  driving  beach 
stretches  away  for  over  25  miles,  sloping  gradually,  afford- 
ing excellent  bathing  places.  Here  taking  leave  of  the 
ocean,  and  following  up  the  green  valley  of  the  San  Mar- 
garita, we  were  soon  on  the  Don  Foster  Rancho,  one  of  tlie 
most  extensive  and  valuable  estates  in  this  region.  Although 
a  dry  year,  hundreds  of  cuttle,  rolling  fat,  are  feeding  on  its 
rich  moist  bottoms. 

The  Mansion  house,  with  its  fine  grounds  and  orchards, 
are  seen  from  the  train.  Soon  the  valley  rapidly  narrows, 
and  we  enter  the  wild  rock-bound  canon  of  Temecula.  Live 
oak,  Cottonwood,  sycamore  and  willow  glow  along  the  banks 
of  the  river. 

The  De  Luz  Hot  Springs  (unimproved)  are  near  the  sta- 
tion of  De  Luz. 

At  Fallbrook  there  is  a  new  and  prosperous  settlement, 
engaged  in  general  farming  and  fruit  culture. 

It  is  found  that  not  only  grapes,  but  also  oranges  of  ex- 
cellent quality,  cun  be  successfully  grown  on  the  rolling 
high  lands,  a  short  distance  back  from  the  station,  with 
little  or  no  irrigation.      Twelve  miles  from  thence  the  train 


EXVUHSIONS    FROM  SAN  DIEGO. 


33 


emerges  from  the  canon,  and  enters  the  plains  of  San  Ja- 
cinto. On  the  right  the  eye  surveys  an  extensive  scope  of 
rolling  and  mountainous  country,  suited  mainly  for  grazing 
purposes. 

At  the  village  of  Temecula,  the  site  of  an  old  Mission 
Church  and  Indian  Ranchero,  there  is  a  considerable  body 
of  good  farming  and  fruit  land. 

Descending  toward  the  Santa  Ana  Valley,  approaching 
Colton,  the  extensive  orchards  and  vineyards  of  Riverside, 
their  green,  luxuriant  verdure  in  striking  contrast  with  the 
arid  country  surrounding,  are  seeu  in  the  distance,  on 
the  left. 

Tourists  will  be  well  repaid  for  spending  several  days  in 
this  section,  visiting  San  Bernardino,  Arrowhead  Springs 
and  other  place  of  interest. 


Trip  No.  4 — Horseback  from  San  Diego  to  San  Francisco  via 
Bear  and  Poivay  Valleys,  San  Jacinto  Plains,  San  Ber- 
nardino, Arrowhead  Springs,  Riverside,  San  Gah'iel,  Si- 
erra Madre  Villa,  Lus  Angeles,  Santa  Monica,  Ventura, 
The  OJai  Valley,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Luis  Obispo,  Paso 
Robles  Sprimjs,  Monterey,  Santa  Cruz,  San  Jose  and  Sau 
Mateo,  800  miles. 

Horseback  is  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  and  healthful 
modes  of  traveling.  A  good  California  saddle  horse  can  be 
purchased  for  from  $  40  to  $75.  Let  the  equipments  be  as  light 
as  possible,  with  safety.  To  avoid  the  weight  and  expense 
of  tlie  superfluous  Mexican  trappings,  I  have,  on  several  oc- 
casions, bought  a  good  Spanish  tree  and  put  on  the  simple 
parts  necessary,  at  a  cost  not  exceeding  $8.  The  ordinary 
Spanish  bit  is  also  a  cruel  infliction.  Unless  the  horse  is 
headstrong  and  vicious,  a  plain  light  American  bit  is  far  pref- 
erable. The  use  of  the  martingalo,  double  rein  and  crupper 
is  not  recommended.  A  good  saddle-blanket  is  very  impor- 
tant. Those  made  from  felt  or  grass  are  best,  being  least 
liable  to  heat  and  blister  the  animal's  back. 

The  service  of  the  horae  depends  more  upon  the  skill  and 
care  of  the  rider,  than  upon  its  good  qualities. 


^   1 


5 


3 


i 


IL 


84 


GALIFORNJA. 


A  natural,  oreot,  unrestrained  position  in  the  saddle, 
bending  slightly  forward  when  galloping,  with  stirrups  about 
one  and  one-half  inches  shorter  than  the  leg,  heels  lowest, 
toes  out,  holding  rein  in  left  hand,  will  be  found  easiest  for 
both  horse  and  rider.  Loosen  the  sinch  when  watering,  and, 
if  the  day  is  hot,  unsaddle  and  pour  water  over  the  animal's 
back  to  prevent  blisters. 

For  camping  out,  a  double  blanket  and  rubber  will  be 
sufficient  for  any  season  in  California,  excepting  in  the  ele- 
vated mountain  districts. 

Thirty  miles  a  day,  I  have  found  far  enough  for  long 
journeys. 

A  very  interesting  ride  through  the  country  already  as 
fully  described  as  the  limits  or  this  work  will  permit,  brought 
me  to  the  borders  of 

SAN  BERNARDINO  COUNTY,  which  comprises  an 
&ixin  of  23,i72  square  miles.  Though  mainly  mountains  and 
desert,  the  San  Bernardino  Valley,  well  watered  by  mountain 
streams  and  artesian  wells,  is  of  great  fertility.  It  has  been 
settled  for  over  twenty  years,  and  is  uow  a  garden  of  farms  and 
orchards.  The  surrounding  mountains  contain  rich  mines  of 
gold  and  silver,  and  valuable  forests  of  pine. 

SAN  BERNARDINO,  the  principal  town,  is  centrally 
located  in  the  valley,  about  five  miles  from  the  old  Spanish 
Mission,  now  in  rains,  and  three  miles  from  Colton,  on  the 
8.  P.  R.  R.  The  extension  of  the  California  Southern  Rail- 
way, now  being  built,  rnns  through  the  place. 

RIVERSIDE,  on  the  Santa  Ana  river,  about  ten  miles 
below,  is  the  second  most  impoitaut  settlement  in  the 
county,  and  one  of  the  most  attractive  and  flourishing  on  the 
Southern  coast.  The  situation  is  especially  favorable  for  the 
growth  of  citrus  fruits  and  raisin  grapes,  which  reach  great 
perfecti(m  here.  Its  dry,  sunny,  equable  climate  is  also  much 
sought  by  consumptives  and  other  invalids. 


THE  ARROWHEAD    HOT  SPRINGS. 


86 


THE  ARROWHEAD  HOT  SPRINGS— The  Arrowhead 
Hot  Springs  are  situated  in  the  foothills  of  the  San  Bernardino 
Mountains,  about  six  miles  northeast  of  San  Bernardino, 
and  2000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  They  derive  their 
name  from  a  remarkable  arrow-shaped  growth  of  vegetation 


on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  visible  [for  several  miles. 
Both  the  location  and  the  virtue  of  these  springs  are  all  that 
could  be  desired  for  the  establishment  of  one  of  the  greatest 
sanitariums  in  the  United  States.  The  grounds  embrace 
160  acres,  an  open  terraced  bench,  with  a  southern  exposure, 


36 


OALIFOBNIA. 


sarrounded  by  high  mountains  on  the  north,  and  command- 
ing a  magnificent  view  of  the  valley  below.  An  orchard 
and  vineyard  bears  the  choicest  fruits.  The  springs  cover 
upwards  of  50  acres,  ranging  in  temperature  from  60°  to 
210°.  They  have  proved  very  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  lung 
and  bronchial  aflfections,  rheumatism,  scrofula,  dropsy  and 
all  skin  diseases. 

Besides  hot  and  cold,  vapor,  steam  and  mud  baths,  there 
is  a  swimming  pool,  75  by  100  feet,  and  from  three  to  ten 
feet  in  depth — one  of  the  very  best  I  have  ever  seen. 

There  are  comfortable  cottage  accommodations  for  25 
guests,  and  unlimited  room  for  campers,  for  which  there  are 
rare  advantages. 

Strawberry  Creek,  a  clear  mountain  stream,  flows  past 
the  place,  giving  an  excellent  and  abundant  water  supply. 
There  is  also  a  shady  and  picturesque  caiiou  near  at  hand,  a 
favorite  resort  for  picnicers.   " 

Dr.  D.  N.  Smith,  the  owner  of  the  springs,  an  experi- 
enced physician,  gives  his  personal  attention  to  the  treat- 
ment, health  and  comfort  of  his  patrons. 

THE  WATERMAN  SPRINGS  ai3  situated  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  west  of  the  Arrowhead,  at  an  elevation  of 
1750  feet  above  the  sea.  Mr.  Waterman,  their  owner,  being 
engaged  in  profitable  mining  operations,  prefers  to  reserve 
this  delightful  place  as  a  quiet  home  for  his  family,  rather 
than  open  it  to  public  patronage. 


LOS  ANGELES  COUNTY.— Proceeding  westward, 
leaving  Cucamonga  on  the  right,  I  soon  entered  Los  An- 
geles County,  the  heart  of  Southern  California,  and  in  cli- 
mate and  productions  one  of  the  most  favored  portions  of 
the  globe. 

Los  Angeles,  Anaheim,  San  Gabriel,  Pasadena,  Orange, 
Santa  Monica,  Santa  Ana,  Downey,  Coropton,  Wilmington, 
San  Pedro,  Pomona,  El  Monte  and  Spadra  are  the  most 
important  towns  and  settlements. 

Passing  through  the  pleasant  villages  of  Pomona,  Spa- 


SAN   GABRIEL     VALLEY. 


37 


dra,  El  Monte   and    Savanna,  a  ride  of  about  40  miles, 
brought  me  to 

THE  SAN  GABRIEL  VALLEY,  famous  for  the  beauty 
of  its  situation,  excellence  of  climate,  extensive  and  pro- 
ductive orange  groves  and  vineyards,  and  elegant  country 
seats.     Here  are  the  magnificent  estates  of  Gen.  Stoneman, 


n 

as 

< 

> 

o 
b: 
(S 

H 

o 

in, 
< 
a 
o 

X 

u 


Messrs.  Rose,  Baldwin,  J.  De  Barth  Shorb,  Wilson,  May- 
berry,  Titus,  Chapman,  Carter,  Hastings,  Kinney,  Cogswell 
and  others. 

Chas.  T.  Wilson,  Esq.,  real  estate  agent,  San  Gabriel, 
may  be  addressed  by  those  desiring  homes  in  this  de- 
lightful spot. 


as; 
>hl| 

4 


■4. 


'v' ' 

i'. 


88 


GALIFOBNIA. 


THE  SAN  GABRIEL  MISSION,  founded  by  Fathers 
Oamberra  and  Somera  in  1871,  is  an  object  of  much  interest 
to  tourists. 

THE  SIERRA  MADRE  VILLA,  owned  by  Cogswell, 
the  artist,  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Moun- 
tains, at  an  elevation  of  1800  feet  above  the  sea,  overlooking 
this  charming  valley,  is  deservedly  one  of  the  most  popular 
and  frequented  summer  and  winter  resorts  of  this  region. 
The  property  comprises  500  acres,  highly  improved  with 
orange  groves,  orchards,  vineyards,  gardens  and  lawns,  in 


SIERRA  MADRE  VUiLA. 

the  midst  of  which  are  the  hotel  buildings  and  cottages, 
commodious  and  first-class  in  all  their  appointments.  There 
are  54  rooms  en  suite,  large,  light  and  airy,  with  gas,  hot  and 
cold  water,  and  elegantly  furnished  throughout;  music  and 
billiard  halls,  and  a  veranda  over  200  feet  in  length,  enclosed 
with  sliding  windows  for  regulating  the  sun  and  air  exposure, 
to  suit  the  pleasure  and  health  of  the  guest.  Excellent 
mountain  water  is  conducted  in  iron  pipes  into  every  apart- 
ment, and  throughout  the  grounds.  Gen.  Sherman,  after  his 
recent  visit  there,  "  took  occasion  to  express  the  emphatic 


7f>jLSVC    Z. 


eAXXt^<OWMtA 


IttHllk  MtiW9  ItitVli* 


BAKER  BMjOCK,  IMS  ANGELES, 


Brush  Electric  Light,  "  Mast "  System, 


■Sr;vsisiH 


m 


i 


.yi» 


^    1 


,1    I 


NOBTH  MAIN  STRBET. 


,-    f   : 


■Wmki^0Mm.. 


PULmT  X. 


CALIFORNIA 


Xios  Angetea  AdverHuenteniM, 


^tPflniQhin  ASRnCV      ^*'"'^  ^"*'^  steamship  Co. ,  no  8  Commercial  Street. 

Danbinn  Diieinnee     ^*  ^nx*]"*  Connty  Bank.  Temple  Block.      John  K. 
DallRing  DUSinBSS.       Plater,  Preildent.    K.  L.  kacNell,  Caehler. 

Rnniro  onH  Ctatinnaru     Hellman,  StaMforth  A  Co.,  lao  Korth  Spring  and 
DOORS  flllQ  OlBllOnBiy.  117  North  Main  street!. 

DnA««  anil  ChnAd     The  Qneen  Fashionable  Boot  and  Shoe  Rtore  and  Mann* 
DOOTS  BHU  dllOBSi       factory,    ao  and  flS  North  Main  SU     Joa.  Meemer,  Prop. 

Drugs  and  Chemicals.  ^«""  *"'<""•  w''«'«"'«««">K'"^'»""^«f»«- 

* 

UsrrilllflrP     B*fP"'>  Beynolda  A  Co.,  108  and  110  Main  and  77  Loa  Ani^Mea  Street*. 

UntM  tmil  Puma     H.  Ble^el.  Fine  Hate  and  FdmlahlngOooda,  Corner  Main  and 
naiS  anO  UapS>       commercial  streets. 

ISuMvu  MHil  UaMbo     !?•  A-  CoTamiblas.   Tnrf  Gallery,  First,  between  Main 

LiVBry  ana  nacRs.  and  spdng  street*. 

NntflfV  PllhllP    Md  Attoraey>at-Law.    Bradner  W.  I^ee,  Room  14,  Baker  Block. 

Physician  and  Surgeon.  w.«.«eed.Room.87and»8.B.kerBiock. 


I 


LOB  ANOELES. 


89 


opinion  that  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa  was  the  most  attractive 
spot  for  having  a  quiet,  good  time,  on  the  American  con- 
tinent." There  is  telegraphic  communication  with  Los  Ai- 
geles,  15  miles  distant.  A  carriage  meets  every  train  at  th  j 
San  Gabriel  Depot  of  the  S.  P.  R.  R.,  five  miles  from  ine 
Villa.  The  San  Gabriel  Narrow  Gauge  Railway  will  in  *  few 
months  convey  guests  to  the  entrance  of  the  grounds.  Mr. 
TV.  P.  Rhodes,  manager  of  the  Villa,  may  be  addressed  at 
Los  Angeles  or  San  Gabriel. 

PASADENA. —  Folio win'  the  foothills  five  miles 
through  a  succession  of  oruuge  groves,  vineyards  and  or- 
chards, I  was  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  delightful  settlement 
of  Pasadena.  Spending  the  winter  of  1874  and  75  at  Los 
Angeles,  I  was  accustomed  to  gallop  over  this  beautiful 
tract,  and  saw  the  founders,  then  known  as  the  "Indiana 
Colony, "  constructing  their  reservoir  and  laying  down  the 
water  pipes. 

What  a  wonderful  change  these  few  years  have  wrought, 
from  a  sheep  pasture  to  hundreds  of  ideal  homes,  in  the 
midst  of  green  lawns  and  perpetually  blooming  gardens  and 
orchards,  bending  under  the  burden  of  the  choicest  fruits 
of  the  landl 


4 

in 


THE  HERMOSA  VISTA  of  South  Pasadena,  G.  W. 
Glover  proprietor,  six  and  three-quarter  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  a  private  boarding  house,  affords  all  the  comforts 
of  an  elegant  home. 

LOS  ANGELES.  An  hour's  ride  down  the  picturesque  ar- 
I'oyo  seco,  and  I  entered  the  chief  city  of  Southern  California. 
Los  Angeles  is  situated  on  the  Los  Angeles  river,  16  miles 
from  the  popular  seaside  resort  of  Santa  Monica,  and  BO 
miles  from  its  rival,  Wiilmore  City.  It  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  about  23,000,  aad  occupying  a  central  and  command- 
ing position,  amidst  the  great  resources  of  this  region,  will 
increase  in  size  and  importance  with  their  development,  and 
always  be  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  South  Pacific 
Coast. 


40 


CALIFORNIA. 


Examining  the  magnificent  Baker  Block,  at  the  time  of 
its  erection  a  few  years  ago,  the  general  opinion  seemed  to 
be  that  it  was  a  waste  of  money  to  build  such  a  costly  struc- 
ture; but  now,  Colonel  Baker,  the  owner,  informs  me  that 
every  room  is  occupied,  and  I  see  several  other  large  and 
elegant  business  houses  m  course  of  construction. 

EXCURSIONS  PROM  LOS  ANGELES. 

Trip  No.  1 — -Fror^  Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Monica,  the  great  sea- 
side resort  of  Smithei'ii  California.     Mmmd  trip,  36  miles. 

SANTA  MONICA  is  situuted  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  16 
miles  from  Los  Angeles.  The  sea-shore  here  has  always 
been  a  favoiite  hoalth  and  pleasure  resort  from  the  earliest 
occuputicn  of  the  country,  and  has  only  needed  population, 
railroad  communication  and  good  accommodations  to  rapidly 
rival  the  great  watering  places  of  the  Atlantic  Coast. 


iiL*o^ai.^.iiei;.!ia|^jMiiS8^ 


---■--■— ''^' "'""""'    .JtlliiiiV''-'i1lrtirlifBaii 
8AMTA  MONICA  HOTEL. 


.When  I  first  rode  along  these  shores,  nine  years  ago, 
only  a  single  sheep-herder's  cabin  marked  the  site  of  Siinta 
Monica,  though  there  were  a  number  of  campers  near  the 
beach,  in  the  shady,  cool  canon  just  beyond. 

But  capitalists  had  already  observed  its  superior  advan- 
tages, and  soon  built  a  railway  from  Los  Angeles,  a  wharf, 
hotels  and  bath-houses,  at  an  expenditure  of  many  hundred 


OR 

H 

U 

o 


o  f 

-  S 

•  & 

>J  I 

H  ^ 

A.  ^ 


5   . 

w      o 


EXCURSIONS   FROM  LOS  ANGELES. 


41 


0) 

u 

-1 
H 
O 

■S  i 

-    8 

*  I 

a   5 


o 


thonsand  dollars,  and  the  people  from  the  interior  now  rush 
to  Santa  Monica,  as  the  New  Yorkers  to  Coney  Island  and 
Long  Branch. 

It  possesses,  the  year  round,  one  of  the  most  enjoyable 
and  healthy  climates  in  the  world,  being  from  10  to  15  de- 
grees cooler  than  Los  Angeles  and  the  interior  country  in 
summer,  and  warmer  in  winter. 

There  is  a  magnificent  driving  beach  stretching  away  for 
15  miles,  good  sea  fishing,  an  abundance  of  water-fowl  in 
the  neighboring  lagoons,  and  game  in  the  mountains,  a  few 
miles  distant. 

There  is  a  capacious,  deep-water  roadstead,  with  good 
anchorage,  where  vessels  may  lie  in  safety  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  year. 

The  development  of  this  delightful  place  is  largely  due  to 
the  entei-prise  and  abundant  cupital  of  Col.  Robert  Baker, 
of  Los  Angeles. 

The  Santa  Monica  T'  tel,  J.  W.  Scott,  Proprietor,  open 
the  year  round,  provides  excellent  accommodations.  It  con- 
tains sixty  well  furnished  rooms;  ommnnds  a  magniticeut 
ocean  view,  and  is  only  about  15(1  yards  from  th»  beach  and 
the  railroad  depot.  The  "Union  Livery  Stabit,"  M.  R. 
Gaddy,  proprietor,  is  on  the  adjoining  block. 

The  Santa  Monica  Baths,  built  at  a  cost  of  several  thous- 
and dollars,  by  far  the  most  complete  on  the  Southern  Coast, 
are  also  under  Mr.  Scott's  management,  and  afford  unusual 
facilities  for  hot  and  cold  salt  and  fresh  water  batlw. 

The  Santa  Monica  Pavilion,  60  x  150  feet,  W  )i  dancing, 
picnics,  etc.,  is  close  at  hand. 

Trip  No.  2  —From  Lo8  Arujeles  to  S^anto.  Ana,  by  the  S.  P. 
R,  R.,  via  Doioney,  Norwalk,  Fulton  Wells,  Anaheim  and 
Orange.     Round  tnp,  80  miles. 

THE  FULTON  SULPHUR  WELLS  are  situated  on  the 
handsome  stretch  of  plateau  lying  between  New  and  Los  An- 
geles rivers,  about  14  miles  south  of  the  city  of  Los  Angeles, 
two  and  one-half  miles  from  Norwalk,  on  the  S.  P.  R.  R., 
and  13  miles  from  the  sea-shore. 


li     I 


42  CALIFORNIA. 

The  broad  expanse  of  the  beautiful,  fertile  and  highly 
improved  valley  extends  in  all  directions,  the  view  looking 
etistward,  limited  by  the  near  lying  Chino  range,  with  the 
grand  old  Sierra  Madre  and  San  Bernardino  mountains  loom- 
ing up  in  the  background. 

Like  many  of  our  most  valuable  discoveries,  that  of  these 
mineral  wells  was  accidental.  Dr.  J.  E.  Fulton,  the  owner, 
was  boring  for  irrigating  purposes,  when,  at  a  depth  of  300 
and  350  feet,  these  remarkable  waters  burst  forth.  The  dis- 
covery soon  spread  abroad,  and  invalids  came  to  test  their 
virtues,  with  such  gratifying  results,  especially  in  the  cure  of 
indigestion,  kidney  and  liver  complaints,  scrofula,  rheuma- 
tism and  skin  diseases,  that  a  Sanitarium  has  been  established 
for  their  treatment,  and  upwards  of  $20,000  expended  in  the 
erection  of  hotel  buildings,  cottages,  baths,  residing  and  bil- 
liard rooms,  for  the  excellent  accommodation  of  thirty  guests. 

The  grounds  embrace  sixty  acres,  with  gardens,  lawns 
and  walks  tastefully  laid  out,  shaded  with  cypress  and  other 
handsome  evergreens;  a  splendid  circular  croquet  ground, 
100  feet  in  diameter,  being  surrounded  with  a  doable  row  of 
Eucalyptus. 

The  situation,  both  as  to  scenic  attractions,  healthfulness, 
mildness  and  equability  of  climate,  is  one  of  the  most  de- 
lightful in  the  world. 

Dr.  Fulton,  a  skillful  physician,  is  iu  constant  attendance 
at  the  Sanitarium,  devoting  his  entire  time  to  the  health  and 
comfort  of  his  patients. 

The  charges  for  board,  baths  and  treatment  ran^^e  from 
$8  to  112  per  week. 

Analysis  of  one  gallon  of  water,  231  cubic  inches,  from 
Fulton  Sulphur  Wells: 

Onins. 

Bicarbonate  of  Soda 2.20 

Bicarbonate  of  Lime 12.00 

Bicarbonate  of  Magnesia 16.50 

Biairbonate  of  Iron 13.00 

Sulphate  of  Sodo .    90 

Chloride  of  Sovlium  10.40 

Silica 80 

Trace  of  Iodine  nud  PotiiKh. 


EXCURSIONS    FROM   LOS   ANQELES. 


48 


ANAHEIM.— Returning  from  Fulton  Wells  to  the  train 
at  Norwalk,  a  ride  of  16  miles  brings  us  to  Anaheim,  the 
city  of  gardens,  orange  groves  and  vineyards,  where  almost 
every  resident  owns  his  home,  and  has  either  acquired  a 
competence,  or  is  free  from  debt. 

This  pioneer  and  most  flourishing  colony  was  established 
in  1859  by  Germans  from  San  Francisco.  It  occupies  a 
level  tract  of  wonderful  productiveness,  34  miles  southeast 
of  Los  Angeles,  12  miles  from  the  ocean,  irrigated  by  the 
Santa  Ana  River,  and  is  especially  noted  for  its  wines,  of 
which  800,000  gallons  have  been  produced  in  a  single  year. 
It  also  possesses  a  most  salubrious  and  charming  climate, 
and  is  a  delightful  resort  for  invalids  and  tourists. 

Westminster,  Garden  Grove,  Santa  Ana,  Gospel  Swamp, 
Tustin  City,  Orange  and  San  Juan  Capistrano  are  other  flour- 
ishing towns  and  settlements  in  this  portion  of  the  county. 

En  route  to  Los  Angeles,  my  attention  was  called  to  the 
great  Nadeau  vineyard,  comprising  2,000  acres,  the  largest 
in  the  United  States. 

Mr.  Nadeau,  the  owner,  is  erecting  the  magnificent  Na- 
deau block  of  Los  Angeles. 


Trip  No.   3. — From  Los   Angeles  to   the  Seaside  Resort  of 
JVillmore  City,  JVtlmington  and  San  Pedro,  hy  the  S.  P. 
R.  R.     Round  trip,  5&' miles. 

A  delightful  ride  of  23  miles,  through  the  orange  groves, 
vineyards  anc'.  orchards  of  the  beautiful  Los  Angeles  Valley, 
brought  me  to 

WILLMORE  CITY,  founded  by  W.  E.  Willmore,  in 
1882,  one  of  the  most  popular  seaside  resorts  of  Southern 
California. 

It  is  finely  situated,  immediately  on  the  shore  of  the 
Pacific,  on  a  commanding  bluflf  of  the  old  Spanish  Rancho 
Corritos,  and  embraces,  together  with  the  lands  of  the 
American  Colony,  a  splendid  tract  of  over  3,000  acres,  laid 
out  into  blocks,  lots,  parks  and  broad  avenues  and  streets? 
and  abundantly  supplied,  through  iron  pipes,  with  excellent 
soft  water,  from  several  flowing  artesian  wells. 


44 


CALIFORNIA. 


\    \ 


The  beach  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  on  the  Pacinc 
Coast,  and  in  some  respects  unequalled  on  the  Atlantic, 
stretching  away  for  nearly  ten  miles,  perfectly  smooth  and 
level,  and  so  hard  that  the  shoes  of  a  horse  barely  leave  an 
impression. 

It  slopes  very  gradually,  is  perfectly  free  from  stones, 
quick-sands,  holes,  and  undertow — one  of  the  best  and  saf- 
est bathing  beaches  I  have  ever  seen.  There  are  already 
good  bathing  facilities,  but  a  very  extensive  and  complete 
bathing  establishment  and  pavilion  is  in  course  of  erection, 
upon  the  plan  of  those  at  the  great  watering  places  of  the 
East. 

The  climate  is  that  delightful  mean  the  year  round 
found  no  where  in  the  world  in  greater  perfection  than  near 
the  seashore  in  Los  Angeles  County,  from  ten  to  twenty  de- 
grees cooler  in  summer  than  in  the  interior  valleys,  and 
warmer  in  the  so-called  winter  months,  without  malaria, 
very  healthy  and  invigorating. 

Game  abounds  in  the  neighboring  salt  water  lagoons, 
especially  wild  geese  and  ducks.  From  spring  until  fall  the 
beach  is  strewn  with  shells  and  sea-grasses,  so  that  for 
health  and  pleasure-seekers,  tourists  and  sportsmen,  the 
year  round,  Willmore  City  affords  extraordinary  attractions. 

The  Bay  View  House,  of  which  Mr.  James  H.  Smith  is 
proprietor,  provides  good  accommodations  for  30  or  40 
guests,  at  seven  dollars  per  week.  The  hotel  comprises 
two  commodious  buildings,  occupying  a  fine  block  of  six 
lots  near  the  seaside,  with  light,  airy,  well  furnished  rooms, 
under  the  personal  supervision  of  Mrs.  Smith.  There  is  also 
a  good  livery  attached . 

The  bathing  house,  pavilion  and  city  railway  are  only  one 
block  away. 

The  Wuxmore  CriTf  Street  Cars,  owned  by  Judge  R.  M. 
Widney,  of  Los  Angeles,  meet  all  ti-ains  to  and  from  Los 
Angeles,  at  Willmore' s  Station,  on  the  Southern  Pacilc 
Railway,  21  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  leaving  Willmore  City 
at  7:20  and  10:45  a.m.,  12:30  and  4:30  p.m.;  fare,  16  cents 
for  adults  and  10  cents  for  children  under  eight  years. 


VENTURA   COUNTY. 


46 


The  ride  is  a  very  pleasant  one  of  about  three  miles,  in 
full  view  of  the  Pacific  on  the  right  and  the  orchards  and 
vineyards  of  the  famous  valley  in  the  distance  on  the  left, 
terminating  at  the  sea  shore,  near  Judge  Widney's  hand- 
some cottage. 

WILMINGTON,  the  home  of  Gen.  Banning,  and  seat  of 
a  flourishing  seminary,  is  situated  about  a  mile  beyond  the 
Willmore  City  Junction. 

Since  the  extension  of  the  railway  three  miles  to 

SAN  PEDRO,  the  chief  port  of  entry  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Coast,  it  is  rapidly  becoming  its  principal  seaport 
town. 

Travelers  will  find  good  accommodations  here  at  the 
"  San  Pedro  Hotel,"  kept  by  Capt.  R.  Hillyer. 

After  a  pleasant  ride  of  about  40  miles  through  the  pictur- 
esque Cayuenga  Pass,  along  the  southern  borders  of  the 
plains  of  San  Fernando,  leaving  the  old  Spanish  mission  in 
the  distance  on  the  right,  I  entered 

VENTURA  COUNTY.  -It  embraces  that  portion  of  South- 
ern California  extending  along  the  Pacific  Ocean,  between 
latitude  34^  and  34J\  from  Point  Rincon  to  Point  Magu,  a 
distance  of  about  45  miles;  and  thence  in  a  northeasterly 
direction,  crossing  the  Conejo  mountains  to  the  summit  of 
the  Santa  Susana  Range,  about  29  miles;  thence  northerly 
about  16  miles  to  the  Coast  Range,  near  LakeCostac;  thence 
vvesterly  and  northwesterly  along  the  summit  of  the  San 
Emideo  mountains,  '.oout  21  miles  to  Cuyama  Valley,  and 
from  thence  soi  .a  36  miles,  to  the  Pacific  Ocean;  being 
bounded  on  the  aorth  by  Kern  and  San  Luis  Obispo  coun- 
ties, on  the  south  avid  east  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Los 
Angeles  County,  and  on  the  west  by  Santa  Barbara  County. 
It  comprises,  including  the  two  small  islands  of  San  Nich- 
olas and  Anacapa,  an  area  of  about  1,380  square  miles,  or 
1, 100,000  acres.  For  a  distance  of  about  13  miles  from  Point 
Rincon  southwest,  the  high  hills  of  the  Coast  Range  and  of 
the  San  Miguelito  present  their  bold  bluffs  to  the  ocean. 


46 


CALIFORNIA. 


I 


The  Santa  Ynez  and  San  Rafael  mountains,  rising  to  an  ele- 
vation of  over  4, 000  feet,  12  miles  from  the  seashore,  encircle 
the  rich  and  charming  valleys  of  the  Ojai  and  Santa  Ana. 
The  San  Emideo  range  of  mountains  encroach  upon  its 
northwestern  borders,  while  the  Conejo  and  Santa  Susana 
ranges  enclose  the  fertile  and  beautiful  Conejo  and  Pleasant 
Valleys,  in  the  southeastern  portion. 

It  is  well  watered  by  numerous  rivers,  creeks  and  springs. 
The  Santa  Clara,  its  most  important  river,  rises  in  the  Sol- 
edad  range  of  mountains  near  the  Mojave  desert,  and  rap- 
idly descending  their  southwest  slope,  cuts  out  the  wild  and 
rockbouud  pass  of  Soledad,  and  flowing  about  45  miles 
through  the  southern  portion  of  the  county,  reaches  the  ocean 
about  five  miles  southeast  of  San  Buenaventura.  Its  prin- 
cipal tributaries,  the  Santa  Paula,  Peru,  Big  and  Little 
Sespe,  are  fine,  clear,  living  streams,  abounding  in  trout, 
and  furnishing  an  unfailing  supply  of  water,  for  irrigation 
and  household  use  for  all  that  portion  of  the  county  com- 
prised within  the  original  grants  of  Sespe,  Santa  Paula,  Sat- 
icoy  and  San  Francisco  ranchos,  and  also  extensive  water 
powers.  The  Lockwood,  Alamo,  Hot  Spring  and  Pine  are 
feeders  of  the  Peru  and  Sespe.  The  Ventura  River,  rising 
in  the  Santa  Ynez  mountains,  flows  through  the  beautiful 
Ojai,  and,  with  its  tributaries,  the  Arroyo  San  Antonio, 
Canada  Leon,  Santa  Ana,  Canada  Larga,  and  Los  Coyotos, 
waters  large  portions  of  the  Ojai,  Canada  Larga,  and  Santa 
Ana  ranchos,  supplies  the  City  of  Ventura  with  pure  water, 
and  affords  excellent  water  powers.  These  streams  also 
abound  with  trout,  especially  the  Ventura,  as  it  emerges 
from  the  mountains,  through  the  well-known  hot  springs 
canon  of  Matilija.  The  Santa  Clai-a,  Ojai,  Conejo  and  Pleas- 
ant are  the  most  important  valleys.  The  Santa  Clara  ex- 
tends across  the  county  a  distance  of  over  40  miles,  varying 
in  width  from  three  to  twenty  miles,  containing  over  200,000 
acres  of  the  richest  land  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

The  Ojai  Valley,  situated  about  ten  miles  from  the  ocean 
in  the  warm  embrace  of  the  Santa  Ynez  and  Coast  Range  of 
Mountains,  has  deservedly  acquired  a  national  reputation 
as  a  health  resort,  and  is  destined  to  become  famous  the 


VENTUHA  VOUNTY. 


47 


world  over  as  a  great  uatural  sanitarium  for  consumptives, 
asthmatics  and  rheumatics.  The  Conejo  Valley,  its  rival  in 
beauty  of  situation  and  superiority  of  climatic  advantages 
for  the  healing  of  lung  diseases,  is  also  rich  in  agricultural 
and  grazing  resources. 

The  timber  supply  of  this  part  of  the  coast  is  deficient!. 
The  live-oak,  a  large,  wide-spreading,  handsome  evergreen 
tree,  grows  quite  abundantly,  furnishing  pleasant  parks  on 
the  high  lands,  and  valuable  supplies  of  wood  from  the 
thicker  growths  on  the  low  lands  and  in  the  canons.  A  dense 
thicket  of  chapparal,  mesquit  and  redwood  divides  the 
mountain  sides  with  the  bare,  gray  sandstone  rocks  of  the 
tertiary  period.  The  best  portions  of  Ventura  County,  in 
common  with  all  Southern  California,  were  granted  by  the 
Mexican  Government  in  extensive  tracts  of  from  one  league 
(4,438  acres),  to  11  leagues  (48,420  acres),  to  its  most  wealthy 
citizens,  without  other  consideration  than  actual  occupancy. 
During  the  last  thirty  years,  most  of  these  lordly  possessions 
have  been  acquired  by  American^?,  and  subdivided  among 
heirs  and  purchasers,  though  the  Eewx,  Bio  de  Santa  Clara 
o  La  Colonia,  and  Los  Posas  ranchor^,  a  magnificent  domain 
of  over  170,000  acres,  are  mostly  awned  by  Mr.  Samuel 
Gray,  of  Philadelphia,  and  Hon.  Thomas  K.  Bard,  of  Hu- 
eneme  They  are  now,  however,  open  to  settlement  upon 
liberal  terms  as  to  price  and  payment.  About  160,000  acres 
of  the  county  are  under  cultivation,  yielding  over  375,000 
bushels  of  barley,  75,000  bushels  of  wheat,  50,000  bushels 
of  beans,  besides  large  quantities  of  other  crops.  The  wool 
product  amounts  to  about  450,000  pounds,  cheese  150,000 
pounds,  and  honey  750,000  pounds.  The»"«;  are  about  100,000 
sheep  in  the  county,  25,000  hogs,  7000  stimd  of  bees,  and 
20,000  bearing  fruit  trees.  The  assessed  valuation  of  all 
property  is  $3,171,126,  of  which  $2,239,335  is  upon  vca! 
estate.  The  county  was  organized  in  1872,  and  contains  a 
population  of  about  6,000,  chiefly  Americans.  San 
Buenaventura,  Santa  Paula,  Hueneme,  Springville,  New 
Jerusalem,  Saticoy  and  Nordhoff  are  the  principal  towns 
aud  settlements. 


48 


CALIFORNIA. 


We  camp  for  the  night  uuder  the  wide-spreading  branches 
of  a  handsome  live-oak,  on 

The  Rancho  el  Coneio,  comprising  48,67lHS,aore8,  origi- 
nally granted  to  Guerra  y  Noriega.  It  is  delightfully  situa- 
ted 1700  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  and  sheltered  by 
picturesque  oak-clad  hills  and  mountains. 

It  embraces  large  bodies  of  choice  pastoral  and  exten- 
sive tracts  of  rich  farming  lauds,  especially  adapted  for 
wheat-growing.  Possessing  a  dry,  sunny  and  equable  cli- 
mate, protected  from  the  coast  fogs  and  winds,  it  is  deserv- 
edly held  in  high  estimation  as  a  resort  for  consumptives 
and  asthmatics. 

During  the  night  wo  were  awakened  by  the  hideous 
howling  of  a  baud  of  coyotes,  and  in  the  morning  they  were 
seen  retreating  up  the  foot-hills. 

To  the  northwest  lies 

The  Rancho  Calleguas,  of  9998;^^  acres,  granted  to  Gabriel 
Ruiz,  in  1861,  of  which  Juan  Camarillo  owns  over  4000 
acres.  There  are  several  thousand  acres  of  rich  arable 
lands,  about  3000  of  which  are  under  cultivation,  including 
a  line  vineyard. 

The  Rancho  Guadalasca,  a  magnificent  estate  of  30,593.85 
acres,  granted  in  1861  to  Ysabel  Yorba,  stretches  away  for 
ten  miles  to  the  ocean.  Though  mainly  adapted  for  grazing 
purposes,  it  contains  over  eight  thousand  acres  of  excellent 
arable  land. 

On  the  sea  shore,  near  Point  Magu,  are  the  remains  of 
one  of  the  most  extensive  Indian  villages  on  the  southern 
coast. 

Twenty-three  thousand  acres  of  the  Guadalasca  are 
owned  by  W.  R.  Broom,  a  wealthy  Englishman,  who  re- 
sides at  Santa  Barbara. 

Descending  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain,  we  enter 
Pleasant  Valley,  a  delightful  section  of  country,  surrounded 
by  the  mountains  of  the  Conejo,  Simi  and  Las  Posas,  and 
opening  out  into  the  Santa  Clara  Valley. 


VENTURA   COUNTY. 
On  the  northeast  and  west  are  situated 


49 


The  Great  Ranchos  Simi  and  Las  Posab,  comprising 
139,632'^  acres,  of  which  upwards  of  100,000  acres  are 
owned  by  Andrew  Gray,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia.  They  em- 
brace large  bodies  of  the  choicest  arable  and  grazing  lands, 


■A 
» 

O 

a 
< 


n 


O 

at 


O 

n 


tons  of  thousands  of  acres  of  the  richest  valleys  and  mesas, 
producing  abundantly  ail  the  various  productions  of  semi- 
tropic  California,  and  extensive  rolling  foot-hills,  admirably 
adapted  for  vineyards  and  fruits. 


"  I 

11 


50 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  climate  is  unsurpassed  iu  the  wut'Ul,  water  excellent, 
situation  very  healthy,  picturesque  and  inviting.  An  abund- 
ant supply  of  artesian  water  is  obtained  here,  a  well  on  the 
Las  Posas,  sunk  by  Hon.  T.  B.  Bard,  being  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  for  force  and  flow  of  water  on  the  southern 
coast. 

There  are  good  school,  church  and  market  facilities. 
These  most  desirable  lands  are  now  oflfered  upon  very  lib- 
eral terms. 

The  Tapo  Rancho,  of  14,000  acres,  well  known  for  its 
old  orchard  and  vineyard,  and  the  excellence  of  its  wines, 
lies  in  the  northeastern  portion  of  Simi.  Two  thousand 
acres  of  the  samd  comprise  a  portion  of  the  fine  stock  ranch 
of  W.  8.  Chaflfee,  Esq. 

Proceeding  toward  Santa  Paula,  the  road  leads  around 
^he  southeastern  foot-hills  of  the  Las  Posas,  through  the 
village  of 

SPRING VILLE,  situated  upon  a  triangular  body  of 
very  rich  and  productive  Government  land  lying  between 
the  Colonia  and  Las  Posas,  13  miles  from  Ventura,  and  12 
miles  from  Hueneme. 

The  Rancho  Santa  Clara  Del  Norte,  of  iy,988,*oJ, 
acres,  of  which  A.  Schiappapietra  owns  12,000  acres,  is  sitr 
uated  west  of  Springville,  the  Santa  Clara  River  forming  its 
western  boundary.  It  contains  about  7000  acres  of  graz- 
ing lauds — now  supporting  15,000  sheep,  4500  acres  of  ex- 
cellent arable  lands,  fine  orchards  and  vineyards,  and  sev- 
eral flowing  artesian  wells. 

Crossing  the  Santa  Clara  River,  I  camped  upon 

The  Rancho  Santa  Paxjla  y  Saticoy,  at  the  Great  Sprinqs 
OP  Saticoy.— This  ranch  of  17,773ig,  acres,  granted  to  John 
T.  Davidson,  and  subsequently  purchased  by  the  great  or- 
chardist,  George  G.  Briggs,  embraces  the  heart  of  the 
Santa  Clara  Valley,  beautiful  in  situation,  and  unsurpassed 
in  fertility  and  for  the  variety  and  excellence  of  its  produc- 
tions. 


Mil 


SASTA    PAULA. 


SI 


Satiooy,  a  pleasant  village,  in  situated  near  the  Santa 
Clara  River,  nine  miles  from  San  Buenaventura.  The 
Siiticoy  Springs  are  remarkable  for  their  extent  and  flow, 
covering  jieres,  and  attbrding  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  ex- 
cellent water. 

CAoHo  at  hand  is  the  beautiful  home  of  Rev.  8.  T.  Wells. 
ii  splendid  farm  of  fiOO  acres,  highly  improved,  bearing 
tinld,  on^liard  and  garden  crops  of  exceptional  excellence. 
Here  I  was  shown  a  rose  of  loss  than  two  years  growth,  136 
feet  ill  length,  and  a  tomato  vine  hud  been  trailed  18  feet. 
This  is  the  favored  climate  and  location  for  the  apricot  and 
senii-tro])ic  fruits. 

En  route  to  Santa  Paula,  I  passed  through  the  rich  tract 
known  as 

The  Okchahd  Ranch,  owned  by  Samuel  Edwards,  of  Santa 
Barbara,  containing  1050  acres. 

Six  miles  up  the  narrowing  valley,  through  a  succession 
of  well  improved  farms  and  orchards,  and  Blanchard's  100- 
acre  orange  grove,  brought  me  to 

SANTA  PAULA,  the  second  largest  town  in  the  county. 
It  is  pleasantly  situated,  about  a  mile  west  of  the  Santa 
Clara  Rivr^r,  and  16  miles  from  San  Buenaventura.  The 
Santa  Paula  Creek,  a  considerable  mountain  stream,  flows 
througli  the  place,  affording  a  good  water  power,  improved 
l>y  Hie  flouring  mill  of  Blanciiard  &  Bradley,  and  an  abund- 
ant water  supply  for  all  general  purposes,  and  a  large  sur- 
plus for  irrigation  whon  required. 

Occupying  a  central  position  in  the  valley,  surrounded 
by  such  great  and  various  resources  of  agriculture,  horti- 
(nilturo,  grazing,  oil,  honey,  etc.,  it  is  one  of  the  most  prom- 
ising towns  in  this  region. 

The  Santa  Paula  oil  wells,  in  the  center  of  the  great  oil 
belt  extending  througli  the  county,  are  only  four  miles 
distant. 

Blanchard  it  Bradley  are  the  principal  town  proprietors, 
owning  a  tract  of  about  2000  acres.  There  are  good  relig- 
ious and  educational  advantages,  and  a  comfortable  hotel, 
C    N   Baker  proprietor. 


ft2 


CALIFORNIA. 


Proceeding  up  the  valley,  we  soon  reached 
The  Sespb  Ranoho,  one  of  the  finest  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, and  the  scene  of  the  most  brutal  and  cowardly  assas- 
sination ever  perpetrated  in  these  parts.  Fifty  years  ago, 
when  California  was  under  Mexican  rule,  and  its  lands 
granted  in  immense  tracts  for  grazing  purposes  to  the  most 
worthy  citizens  of  that  country,  Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo  re- 
ceived a  deed  in  due  form  from  Governor  Don  Figueroa,  for 
the  San  Cullitano  or  Sespe  Rancho,  embracing  all  that  por- 
tion of  the  fertile  Santa  Clara  Valley,  and  the  bordering 
foot-hills,  extending  up  the  valley  from  the  Arroyo  Piruc 
about  five  and  a  half  leagues  to  the  Arroyo  Mupu,  and  across 
from  mountain  to  mountain  a  league  or  more,  a  magaificent 
estate  of  25,360,^  acret;  and  on  the  17th  of  May,  1834,  was 
placed  in  formal  possession  by  the  local  alcade,  by  the  cus- 
tomary pulling  up  of  herbage,  breaking  of  the  branches  of 
trees,  etc.,  and  entered  thereon  with  his  700  head  of  cattle, 
horses  and  mules. 

After  the  acquisition  of  California  by  the  United  States, 
on  the  18tli  day  of  April,  1853,  Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo's 
title  to  the  Sespe  Rancho,  as  herein  desci'ibed,  was  ap- 
proved by  the  United  States  Land  Commissioner.  Soon 
aftor  the  grantee,  Carrillo,  died,  and  in  1854-5  the  Rancho 
Cullitano  or  Sespe  was  sold  by  his  administrators  to  Thos. 
Wallace  More,  Esq.,  of  Sauta  Barbara,  for  the  sum  of 
$18,500  cash.  Decerajer  20th,  1854,  the  U.  S.  District  At- 
torney filed  in  the  U.  S.  District  Court  a  petition  to  review 
che  decision  of  the  Land  Citmmissioner,  making  Thomas 
W.  More  the  party  appellee.  This  petition  was  based  upon 
the  claim  that  the  original  grant  had  been  altered  after  de- 
livery and  before  possession  was  taken,  from  dos  (two)  to 
sek  (six)  square  leagues,  and  upon  a  stipulation  by  Mr.  More's 
attorney  that  such  was  the  case,  although  made  without  the 
former's  knowledge  or  consent,  the  U.  S.  District  Court  con- 
firmeu  the  grant  for  two  leagues  June  23th,  1862.  More's 
appeal  from  this  decision  was  dismissed  January  12,  1865, 
and  in  March,  1872,  he  received  a  patent  for  two  tracts  of 
the  Sespf  8880,'Ji,  of  the  25,350,'jji  acres  purchased  by  him 
in  good  'ai  h,  and  occupied  continuously  for  the  period  of 
sevfcD'ee/i  jdars. 


THE  GREAT  '3E8PE  RANG  HO. 


68 


s 


In  the  meantime,  during  the  pendency  of  the  appeal, 
settlers  began  to  encroach  upon  the  disputed  lands  of  the 
Sespe  Grant,  by  entering  and  taking  squatters  claim  there- 
on. More,  firm  in  the  conviction  of  his  rightful  possession 
of  the  original  six  league  grant,  of  course  resisted  the  in- 
vasion, but  only  by  such  lawful  and  justifiable  means  as 
were  necessary  for  the  protection  of  his  rights.  The  law- 
less and  desperate  intruders  therefore  resolvad  to  remove  all 
opposition  to  their  quiet  possession  by  the  cold-blooded 
murder  of  More.  For  this  purpose  they  banded  together, 
some  seven  in  all,  and  led  by  one  F.  A.  Sprague,  armed  with 
rifles  and  shot-guns,  and  masked,  at  midnight,  surrounded 
More's  premises,  set  fire  to  his  bi\-  and  when  the  de- 
fenseless man  rushed  out  to  rescne  the  stock,  riddled  his 
body  with  bullets. 

A  few  months  previous  to  this  most  cruel  and  cowardly 
assassination,  Hon.  C.  A.  Storke,  a  young  lawyer  of  excel- 
lent ability  and  reputation,  had  married  Miss  Mattie  More, 
one  of  the  four  children  of  the  murdered  man,  and  upon 
him  devolved  the  prosecution  of  the  assassins  and  the  man- 
agement of  the  estate.  Sprague,  the  leader  of  the  conspiracy 
and  the  principal  actor  of  the  horrible  deed,  was  soon  con- 
victed, and  is  now  serving  a  life-sentence  iu  the  State 
Prison. 

The  Sespe  Banch,  as  confirmed,  was  divided  among  the 
heirs  in  tracts  of  about  2520  acres  each.  Subsequently, 
Wallace  H.  More  sold  his  portion  to  Hon.  C.  A.  Storke,  and 
Thos.  R.  More  his  to  the  great  laud-owner,  Hon.  Thos.  li. 
Bard. 

Well  watered  by  the  Santa  Clara  River,  T/hich  flows 
through  it,  and  its  tributary,  the  Sespe,  the  arable  portic n, 
comprising  upwards  of  8000  a(Tes  of  the  richest  lands,  {  ro- 
duoing  everything,  and  capable  of  irrigation  if  required, 
affords  a  rare  opportunity  for  those  seeking  homes  in  this 
favored  region. 

The  great  oil  belt  extends  tlie  whole  length  of  this 
ranoho.  at  the  base  of  the  mountains  on  tho  west;  a  well 
bored  1500  feet  in  the  Sespe  Canon  having  ;  ielded  100  bar- 
rels a  day.     Bordering  the  river  there  are  i500  or  GOO  acres 


IM 


54 


CALIFORNIA. 


of  moist  lands,  known  as  the  Cienega.  affording  o<ie  of  the 
best  hog  ranges  in  the  State. 

The  Camulos  Rancho,  of  1500  acres— a  portion  of  tho 
San  Francisco  rancho — belonging  to  the  heirs  of  Igna(j?o  dol 
Valle,  and  well  known  for  its  splendid  and  productive 
orchards  and  vineyards,  and  the  excellent  quality  of  its 
oranges  and  wines,  lies  eight  miles  up  the  valley  from  the 
Sespe.     This  wealthy  Spanish  family  are  also  the  owners  of 

The  Temiscal  Rancho,  comprising  13,339  acres  of  grazing 
lands,  watered  by  Pirn,  a  tributary  of  the  Santa  Clara.  Next 
we  enter 

The  San  Francisco  Rancho,  of  14,500  acres  (8,00(1 
arable),  which  stretches  away  to  the  head  of  the  valley,  at 
Newhall,  on  the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  in  Los 
Angeles  county.  A  day's  ride  over  the  mountains,  through 
the  famous  Soledad  Pass,  brought  us  to  the  borders  of  tlio 
plains  of  the  Mojave.  These  wild,  inaccessible  mountain 
fastnesses  have  been  the  favorite  rendezvous  of  the  robbers 
and  freebooters  which,  for  a  long  time,  infested  the  Southern 
coast — the  notorious  Vasquez,  Joaquin  Murieta,  and  other 
bandits.  Early  one  morning,  we  saw  a  man  suddenly  emerge 
from  one  of  its  lonely  canons,  driving  two  horses  at  full 
speed.  Reaching  the  next  station,  we  learned  that  ho  was  a 
robber  fleeing  with  stolen  horses  from  Santa  Barbara.  One 
night  on  the  borders  of  the  cactus  waste  of  the  deseit  of 
Mojave,  and  we  recrossed  the  moimtains  via  Elizabeth  Lake, 
through  the  San  Francisco  Pass,  one  of  the  wildest  gorges 
of  the  Pacific  Slope.     It  cuts  through 

An  Extensive  Gold  Field  comprising  portions  of  Los 
Angeles,  Kern  and  Ventura  counties,  which  produced  the 
first  gold  ever  mined  in  California,  over  forty  years  ago,  and 
has  been  worked  ever  since.  The  richest  discoveries  arc  in 
the  Piru  Mining  District,  in  the  northeastern  portion  of  Ven- 
tura county,  about  65  miles  west  of  Newhall,  in  the  Frazcr 
Mountains,  6,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Here  are  quartz  ledges 
from  two  to  twelve  feet  in  thickness,  reported  to  have  as- 
sayed from  $12  to  $130  gold  per  ton.  Tht-iv  inacceHsibility 
and  the  robbery  of  a  party  engaged  in  their  ilevuIo[)nu'ntby 


NEW  JERUSALEM. 


66 


banditti,  has  discouraged  further  operations  there.  On  Piru 
Creek,  which  affords  an  abundant  supply  of  water  for  mining 
purposes,  there  are  several  urastrtis  now  in  successful  opera- 
tion. Ledges  of  gold,  silver,  and  galena  have  also  been  found 
there.  Mexicans  and  others  are  now  working  placers  at  the 
fork  of  the  Piru  and  Lockwood  creeks.  We  met  several 
parties  of  prospectors  and  practical  miners  who  spoke  con- 
fidently of  the  richness  of  this  gol4  field,  and  have  heard 
encouraging  reports  of  discoveries  made  since  our  visit. 
Returning  down  the  Santa  Clara  Biver,  I  recrossed  it  to 

The  Great  Rancho  el  Rio  de  Santa  Clara  o  la  CoLOinA, 
a  magnificcufc  domain  of  44,883  30-100  acres,  principally 
owned  by  Hon,  Thomas  R.  Bard  of  Hueneme.  It  stretches 
for  eight  miles  along  the  ocean,  and  back  therefrom,  in  a 
triangular  form,  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  comprising  about 
35,000  acres  of  arable  lands,  the  heart  of  the  lower  Santa 
Clara  valley.  Commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  en- 
circling mountain  ranges,  possessing  one  of  the  most  health- 
ful and  agreeable  climates  in  the  world,  absolutely  free  from 
all  malarial  fevers  and  epidemic  diseases,  abundantly  supplied 
with  excellent  water  from  mountain  streams,  artesian  and 
other  wells,  producing,  in  great  abundance,  all  the  staple 
productions  of  both  northern  and  southern  latitudes,  it 
affords  a  combination  of  advantages  rarely  found  in  any 
portion  of  the  globe.  It  is  already  the  site  of  three  pleasant 
prosperous  villages — Hueneme,  New  Jerusalem  and  Spring- 
ville — in  the  midst  of  well-tilled,  productive  and  profitable 
farms.  There  is  room  here  for  hundreds  of  families  to  secure 
homes  with  these  unsurpassed  advantages,  upon  the  most  fa- 
vorable terms. 


NEW  JERUSALEM.     I  shall  never  forget  my  first  entry 
into  New  Jerusalem. 

Whoever  has  had  his  conveyance,  however  humble,  kicked 
all  to  pieces,  on  a  hot  dusty  day,  by  a  vicious  old  mustang, 
compelling  him  to  complete  his  day's  journey  on  foot,  will 
appreciate  my  feelings.  I  had  purchased  at  Santa  Barbara, 
a  short  time  previous,  from  a  pious-faced  son  of  a  quaker,  the 
miserable  brute  which  made  me  so  much  trouble.  The  man,  of 


66 


CALIFORNTA. 


i 


course,  was  as  silent  as  a  sphynx  about  the  animal's  vicious 
qualities,  though  he  knew  perfectly  well  that  he  would  buck 
and  kick  like  a  veritable  horse  fiend.  I  used  him  horseback 
for  a  while,  and  every  morning  went  through  with  a  series  of 
violent  equestrian  performances,  such  as  I  venture  were 
never  witnessed  at  any  circus,  and  at  no  small  risk  of  limb 
and  trial  of  patience.  I  then  undertook  to  train  him  to  a 
buck-board.  I  had  found  him  in  harness,  and  still  had 
hopes  of  his  usefulness.  I  harnessed  him  in,  and  strapped 
him  down.  He  kicked  everything  clea  n  and  sat  down  on  one  of 
the  shafts,  breaking  it  in  the  middle,  in  about  twenty  seconds* 
I  repaired  damages,  got  new  shafts,  and  stronger  backstraps. 
Everything  held  this  time,  and,  after  a  few  desperate  kicks, 
he  started  off  most  encouragingly,  and  we  were  getting  along 
so  well,  that  our  second  day's  ride  was  nearly  over,  without 
mishap,  when,  all  at  once,  the  deceptive  beast  let  loose  and 
kicked  off  the  shafts,  twisted  off  one  wheel,  and  turned 
around  and  surveyed  the  ruins  with  a  most  exasperating  look 
of  satisfaction.  Let  me  here  caution  the  traveler  never  to 
trust  in  a  mustang  of  confirmed  vicious  habits,  however  well 
he  may  behave  for  a  time. 

New  Jerusalem  is  centrally  situated  in  the  lower  Santa 
Clara  Valley,  on  one  of  the  richest  portions  of  the  great 
Bancho  La  Oolonia.  It  commands  an  extensive  and  fine 
mountain  view,  embracing  portions  of  the  Coast,  Guadalaska, 
and  Conejo  ranges,  and  the  high,  rolling  hills  of  the  Ex-Mis- 
sion and  the  Las  Posms.  The  climate  is  most  enjoyable — 
seldom  too  hot  in  summer,  or  too  cold  in  winter. 

I  here  met  a  f'armer,  who,  during  the  dry  year  of  1877, 
raised,  by  irrigation,  113  bushels  of  shelled  corn  per  acre 
upon  20  acres.  The  giain  harvest  was  in  progress,  the  fields 
were  alive  with  threshers,  and  the  roads  with  six-horse  teams 
drawing  great  loads  of  barley  to 


■!Ul 


HUENEME,  the  greatest  barley  shipping  port  south  of 
San  Francisco.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  immedi- 
ately on  the  sea-nhore,  12  miles  southeast  of  San  Buenaven- 
tura. The  mountains  of  the  Coast  Bange  loom  up  grandly 
on  the  northeast  and  west,  and,  sweeping  the  horizon  sea- 


SAN   BUENAVENTUPA. 


67 


ward,  the  eye  is  arrested  by  the  rugged  outlines  of  the  out- 
lying islands. 

The  climate  is  very  healthy,  free  from  all  malaria,  cool 
ail  Invigorating.  An  abundant  supply  of  good  artesian 
water  is  conducted  in  iron  pipes  throughout  the  place. 
Magnificent  stretches  of  level  farming  lands  of  unsurpassed 
excellence  extend  from  the  sea-shore  north,  east  and  west 
from  10  to  20  miles.  A  revolving  light  welcomes  the  mari- 
ner into  a  safe  roadstead,  and  to  the  best  and  most  exten- 
sive wharf  and  warehouses  on  the  southern  coast.  The 
wharf,  very  strongly  built,  from  18  to  40  feet  in  width,  and 
800  feet  long,  reaches  out  to  30  feet  of  water.  From  the 
three  great  warehouses — A  66x315  feet,  B  66x161,  and  C 
6(5x312 — a  double-track  railway,  provided  with  24  cars  of 
lOO-sack  capacity  each,  carries  the  grain  to  the  loading 
vessels.  These  excellent  shipping  facilities  are  the  piop- 
ert-  of  the  Hueneme  Wharf  tind  Lighter  Company,  of 
which  Hon.  Thomas  R.  Bard  is  the  President  and  principal 
owner. 

Mr.  Bard's  elegant  residence  is  situated  in  the  midst  of 
extensive  and  highly  improved  grounds  near  the  village. 
The  owner  and  manager  of  the  most  important  business  in- 
terests in  the  county,  distinguished  for  his  integrity,  gener- 
osity and  public  spirit,  he  occupies  a  foremost  place  iimong 
the  leading  men  of  the  coast. 

The  Rancho  San  Miguel,  a  splendid  estate  of  4693»i, 
acres,  originally  granted  to  Raymundo  Olivas,  fronting 
about  four  miles  on  the  ocean,  extends  from  the  Santa 
Clara  River  to  Ventura.  Dixey  \v .  Thompson,  late  mana- 
ger of  "The  Arlington  "  of  Santa  Barbara,  owns  2346  acres 
of  this  ranch,  and  the  heirs  of  Raymundo  Olivas  the  other 
half.  The  whole  is  under  high  cultivation,  producing  great 
crops  of  barley,  corn,  beans,  flax,  hay,  etc. 


SAN  BUENAVENTURA,  the  principal  town  and  coun- 
ty seat,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  sea-coast,  near  the 
San  Buenaventura  River,  311  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It 
is  built  around  the  base  cf  the  high  hills  of  the  Ex-Mission 


i  t  ii 


ii  >t ! 


68 


CALIFORNIA. 


i-:i 


Hancho,  which  protect  it  from  the  severity  of  the  east  winds. 
A  fine  large  public  school  building  stands  out  in  bold  relief 
upon  a  commanding  terrace  on  the  southward  slope.  The 
eye  next  rests  upon  the  white-walled  massive  architecture  of 
the  old  Mission,  founded  by  the  Catholic  Fathers,  the  pio- 
neers of  civilization  on  this  coast,  in  1782.  Then  the  Coun- 
ty Court  House,  a  substantial  building,  is  seen  among  a 
cluster  of  the  old  Mission  olive  trees.  Main  Street,  the 
principal  business  thoroughfare,  encircles  the  foot-hills, 
and  presents  that  interesting  commingling  of  peoples  and 
collection  of  habitations  which  forms  such  an  attractive  fea- 
ture of  the  American-Spanish  towns  of  this  coast.  Large, 
well-built  blocks  of  brick  look  down  upon  the  humble  one- 
story,  tiled-roofed  adobe  of  the  original  settler.  The  Schi- 
appapietra  or  I'alace  Hotel  Block,  Ayers'  Hotel,  Spears' 
Block,  the  Chaff  ae,  Gilbert  &  Bonestel,  and  Einstein  &  Bern- 
heim  stores,  the  Free  Press,  Brown's,  and  Library  Building 
are  all  good  substantial  structures. 

The  principle  residence  portion  occupies  the  gentle  slope 
between  Main  Street  and  the  ocean,  and  the  foot-hills  and 
the  San  Buenaventura  River.  Hundreds  of  small,  cosy, 
home-like  cottages  are  half-concealed  amidst  the  thick  foli- 
age of  the  acacia,  pepper,  et  'lalyptus,  fir,  Monterey  cypress 
and  other  handsome  evergi'eens  and  ornamental  and  fruit- 
bearing  trees.  They  are  interspersed  with  a  goodly  number 
of  large  fine  residences.  Many  of  the  gaidens  and  grounds 
are  laid  out  with  excellent  taste,  and  ornamented  with  the 
choicest  varieties  of  flowers,  plants  and  shrubs.  In  the  old 
Mission  orchard,  adjoining  the  elegant  residence  of  A. 
Schiappapietra,  stands  one  of  the  largest  palm  trees  in 
this  country,  set  out  by  the  Santa  Maria  Fathers  nearly  a 
century  ago. 

Ventura  Avenue,  which  extend  for  three  and  a  half  miles 
up  the  rich  valley  of  the  San  Buenaventura,  is  one  continu- 
ous garden  and  orchard,  producing  most  bountifully  the  va- 
rious products  of  this  highly  favored  country.  Ventura  is  a 
modest  place,  which  has  never  pressed  its  claims  upon  pub- 
lic attention  beyond  its  merits.  It  contains  a  population  of 
about  2000,  chiefly  American-bom  citizens,  though  there 


SAN  BUENAVENTURA. 


59 


ia  sufficient  foreign  element — Spanish,  Italian,  German, 
French,  English,  Scotch  and  Ohinese — to  give  it  quite  a 
cosmopolitan  spirit  and  aspect.  The  people  are  intelligent, 
hospitable  and  law-abiding.  No  place  of  its  size  upon  the 
coast  maintains  in  a  more  efficient  state  the  various  insti- 
tutions, organizations,  societies  and  orders,  either  essen- 
tial to,  or  indicative  of,  a  well-ordered  and  prosperous  com- 
munity. 

It  affords  good  religious,  educational  and  social  advan- 
tages. The  various  churches,  an  excellent  graded  school 
and  a  well  filled  and  selected  library  are  generously  support- 
ed; also  two  weekly  papers — the  Fh'ee  Press  and  the  Ventura 
Signal. 

Excellent  water  is  supplied  from  the  San  Buenaventura 
River,  and  distributed  in  iron  pipes  throughout  the  place  by 
the  Santa  Clara  Water  Company.  The  Bank  of  Ventura,  of 
which  Hon.  T.  B.  Bard  is  President,  affords  excellent  bank- 
ing facilities. 

The  traveling  public  will  find  good  accommodations 
and  reasonable  charges  at  the  Palace  Hotel,  Wagner  &  Co., 
proprietors. 

Commodious  warehouses,  and  a  substantial  wharf,  1200 
feet  long,  extending  to  30  feet  of  water,  and  provided  with 
a  double-track  freight  railway,  afford  good  shipping  fa- 
cilities. 

Ventura  has  always  done  a  commercial  business  dispro- 
portionate to  its  size.  Visitors  will  be  surprised  to  find 
here  larger  stocks  of  general  merchandise  than  at  any  other 
place  on  the  coast  between  San  Francisco  and  Los  An- 
geles. The  firm  of  Chaffee,  Gilbert  &  Bonestel  carry  over 
a  $40,000  stock  of  every  description  of  merchandise,  which 
the  trade  of  the  county  demands.  The  neighboring  house 
of  Einstein  &  Bernheim  is  about  equally  large,  commanding 
an  extensive  trade. 

I  am  informed  by  Dr.  Cephas  L.  Bard,  a  resident  phy- 
sician, who  has  practiced  medicine  and  surgery  in  the 
county  very  successfully  for  sixteen  years,  that  the  health  of 
the  city  is  excellent,  being  free  from  diphtheria,  scarlet  fever 
and  other  diseases  so  fatal  to  children. 


60 


CALIFORNIA. 


From  Ventura,  I  proceeded  to  the  Ojai  Valley,  a  distance 
of  15  miles.    The  high  hills  of 

The  Ex-Mission  Banoho,  an  immense  estate  of  49,822 
acres,  of  which  Hon.  J.  M.  Brooks  is  agent,  originally 
granted  to  Manuel  A.  Bodriguez,  stretch  away  on  the  right 
to  Santa  Paula.  Following  seven  miles  along  the  bank  of 
the  Ventura  Biver,  through  a  rich  and  beautiful  valley  of 
groves  of  oranges,  apricots,  plums,  figs,  walnuts,  etc.,  for- 
merly a  portion  of 

The  Banoho  Oanada  Larqa,  comprising  6659  4-100  acres, 
granted  to  Joaqum  Alvarado;  then,  eight  miles  further  up 
a  gradually  ascending  grade,  crossing  and  recrossiug  a  clear 
mountain  stream,  the  San  Antonio,  under  the  grateful  shade 
of  the  live  oak  and  poplar,  arched  and  festooned  with  the 
thick  foliage  of  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grape  and  other  vines, 
we  emerge  into  the  beautiful 

OJAI  VALLEY,  Ventura's  famous  health  and  pleasure 
resort.  So  far  as  my  personal  experience  or  knowledge  ex- 
tends, there  is  no  place  in  North  America  which  contains 
greater  natural  advantages  for  a  perfect  sanitarium.  These 
are  mildness,  equability  and  healthfulness  of  climate;  excel- 
lence of  water;  grandeur  and  beauty  of  scenery;  exemption 
from  fogs,  wind  and  dust;  hot  and  cold  sulphur  springs; 
excellent  trout-fishing  and  hunting;  delightful  camping 
grounds,  and  retirement  from  the  exciting  throngs  of  fash- 
ionable watering-places.  It  is  charmingly  situated  at  an 
t  levation  of  about  1100  feet  above  the  sea,  suri-ounded  and 
sheltered  by  the  Santa  Ynez  and  San  Bafael  ranges  of  moun- 
tains. 

Here,  at  the  little  village  of 

NOBDHOFF,  centrally  situated  in  the  Lower  Ojai, 
amidst  groves  of  handsome  live  oak,  fields  of  wheat,  orchards 
and  vineyards,  commanding  magnificent  mountain  views,  are 
the  popular  health  resorts  of  Frank  P.  Barrows  and  McKee 
&  Gaily,  the  former  well  known  as  the  "Ojai  Hrjse"  or 
the  "Country  Home,"  and  the  latter  as  "The  Oak  Glen 
Cottages." 


THE  MATILIJA    HOT  .SULPHUR   SPRINGS. 


61 


The  Ojai  Rancho,  embracing  the  central  portion  of  this 
most  delightful  valley,  and  containing  17,716  8IJ-100  acres, 
was  granted  to  Fernando  Tico  in  1868. 

The  Santa  Ana  Ranoho,  of  21,522  21-100  acres,  was  con- 
firmed, in  1850,  to  Ayala  and  others.  Together,  they  contain 
about  14,000  acres  of  arable  lands  of  great  fertility,  and 
specially  adapted  to  wheat  raising,  fruits  and  vineyards. 

Visitors  to  the  Ojai,  whether  for  health  or  pleasure, 
should  go  to 


THE  MATILIJA  HOT  SULPHUR  SPRINGS.  They 
are  situated  in  the  wild,  rock-bound  canon  of  the  head- 
waters of  the  Ventura  River,  about  1500  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  six  miles  from  the  village  of  Nordhoff.  Some  twenty  in 
number,  ranging  in  temperature  from  35°  to  150°,  they  are 
equal  to  any  on  the  Southern  Coast  for  the  cure  of  rheuma- 
tism, dyspepsia,  kidney  disease,  etc.  Deer  are  numerous 
and  small  game  plentiful,  and  the  trout-fishing  excellent. 
Two  visitors  recently  caught  200  trout  here  in  a  few  hours. 
Mr.  A.  J.  Wilcoxen,  the  proprietor,  furnishes  comfortable 
hotel  and  cottage  accommodations  at  $8  per  week,  Mr. 
Robert  Lyon's  orchai'd  and  vineyard,  well  known  for  the  ex- 
cellence of  its  fruits,  is  located  a  short  distance  below  the 
springs. 

All  the  roads  leading  into  the  Ojai  present  a  succession 
of  views  charmingly  picturesque  and  interesting.  The  15 
miles  from  Santa  Paula  to  Nordhoff  pass  through  the  wild 
ciiilon  of  the  Santa  Paula  by  the  great  oil  wells  and  tanks, 
over  remarkable  deposits  of  asphaltum,  past  apiaries,  fine 
orchards,  and  vineyards,  through  fields  of  grain  and  groves 
of  live  oak,  by  the  humble  cottage  of  the  homesteader  and 
the  mansion  house  of  the  wealthy  land  owner.  The  35  miles 
to  Santa  Barbara,  by  the  Oasitas  Pass  road,  is  equally  de- 
lightful, for  15  miles  winding  among  the  rugged  wooded 
hills,  and  over  the  handsome  slopes  of  the  Santa  Ana  aud 
Rincon;  then,  througli  the  beautiful  valleys,  which,  with  the 
glorious  mountains,  the  blue  sea,  the  islands,  and  the  bright 
skies,  compose  the  matchless  views  of  Santa  Barbara. 


1    I'  , 
r'" 


OS  CALIFORNIA. 

Betuming  to  San  Buenaventura,  I  followed  the  sea-coast 
30  miles  to  Santa  Barbara,  first  through  the 

Banoho  de  San  Migueltto,  of  8877,Ju  acres,  confirmed  to 
Juan  F.  de  Bodriguez  in  1860,  and  owned  by  G.  B.  Taylor, 
chiefly  mountainous,  and  suited  only  to  grazing  purposes; 
then  for  several  miles  under  the  high  bluffs  of 

The  Banoho  el  Binoon,  the  road  skirting  the  ocouu- 
shore,  washed  by  every  high  tide.  This  grant,  of  4459,^ 
acres,  made  to  Theodore  Arellanos,  2200  acres  of  wliicli  are 
owned  by  M.  H.  Biggs,  of  South  America,  is  mainly  roUiug 
foot-hills,  specially  adapted  for  stock-raising,  with  arable 
mesas,  slopes  and  benches  of  limited  extent. 

Point  Bincon  is  on  the  boundary  line  between  Ventura 
and  Santa  Barbara  counties. 

That  portion  of  Southern  California,  known  as 

SANTA  BABBABA  COUNTY,  lies  between  latitudes 
34'-'  and  35°,  and  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  Santa  Maria 
Biver,  near  Point  Sal,  south  and  east  along  the  Pacific 
Coast  to  Point  Bincon,  a  distance  of  about  106  miles. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  Santa  Maria  Biver  to  Point  Arguol- 
lo,  27  miles,  its  shore  lino  runs  nearly  south;  from  thence 
to  Point  Concepcion,  14  miles,  southeast,  from  which  point 
it  bears  almost  due  east  65  miles  to  Point  Bincon. 

The  Pacific  Ocean  bounds  it  on  the  south  and  west,  Ven- 
tura County  on  the  east  and  San  Luis  Obispo  County  on  the 
north.  Three  mountain  ranges  cross  the  county  in  a  north- 
westerly and  westerly  direction ;  these  are  the  Sierra  Madre 
Del  Sur  in  the  northeastern  portion,  the  San  Bafael  Moun- 
tains in  the  central,  while  along  the  immediate  coast,  distant 
only  from  two  to  six  miles  from  it,  extends  the  Santa  Ynez 
Bange.  The  average  elevation  of  the  Coast  Bange  is  about 
2500  feet,  rising  at  some  points  to  over  3500  feet.  The 
moimtains  increase  in  altitude  as  we  recede  from  the  coast, 
the  San  Bafael  overlooking  the  Santa  Ynez,  and  the  Sierra 
Madre  both  ranges. 

The  Santa  Maria  and  Santa  Ynez  are  its  principal  rivers, 
the  former  being  the  longest,  and  carrying  the  greatest  vol- 


SANTA   BARBARA  COUNTS. 


68 


uiue  of  wtitur.  It  rises  iu  the  Sierra  Mudre  Del  Sur  uud 
Suu  Bufael  mouiitiiius,  draiuing  thu  south  slope  of  the 
former  by  ita  uorth  branch,  the  Cuyfi'  a,  and  the  northoru 
slope  of  the  latter  by  the  Sisquoc,  aud  ilows  into  the  Pacific 
about  seven  miles  north  of  Point  Sal.  The  Tepusque,  Los 
Enciuos,  Canoncito,  Agua  8acado  and  Potrero  are  small 
tributaries.  The  Santa  Ynez  Kivor  rises  in  Ventura  County, 
in  the  Santa  Yncz  Mountains,  and  flowing  westerly,  drains 
the  south  slope  of  the  San  Rafael  and  the  north  slope  of  the 
Santa  Ynez  llange,  reaching  the  ocean  five  miles  south  of 
Purissiraa,  Its  feeders  are  the  Sal  Si  Puedes,  Zaca,  Alisal, 
Alamo,  Pintado,  Santa  Cruz,  Caballado,  Los  Laiireles,  In- 
dio.  Mono,  Agua  Calionto,  and  a  few  other  small  streams. 
The  south  slope  of  the  Coast  Mountains  waters  the  valleys 
below  by  the  llincon,  Carpinteria,  Sai  a  Monica,  Padorou, 
Toro,  Ficay,  Hot  Si)ring8,  Cold  Stream,  Mission  Creek, 
Maria  Ygnacia,  San  Jose,  San  Pedro,  Carneros,  Tocolote, 
Armitas,  Tocolotito,  Dos  Pueblos,  Las  Varas,  El  apitan, 
Uefugio,  Hondo,  Costa,  Molinos,  Las  Cruces,  Agua  Calien- 
te,  Santa  Anita,  San  Augustine,  liodeo,  Canada  Honda,  and 
the  San  Antonio  and  Casmalia  creeks.  Of  these  mountain 
streams,  the  llincon,  Carpinteria,  Mission,  El  Capitan  and 
Dos  Pueblos  are  tlie  most  important,  flowing  to  the  sea  in 
ordinary  years,  while  most  of  the  others  partially  or  wholly 
disappear  during  the  dry  season,  soon  after  leaving  the  foot- 
hills. There  are  several  small  lakes  and  lagoons  in  the  coun- 
ty, the  Guadalupe  and  the  Zaca  being  the  largest.  The  Santa 
Maria,  Santa  Ynez,  Los  Alamos,  Cuyama,  Monteciio  anil 
Carpinteria  are  its  principal  valleys. 

There  ai'e  two  good  wagon  passes  over  the  Santa  Ynez 
Mountains,  the  San  Marcos  and  Gaviota,  and  several  horse- 
back trails.  The  San  Marcos  Pass  is  reached  by  following 
up  the  San  Jose,  descending  the  mountains  on  the  uorth 
side,  along  the  Los  Laureles,  by  what  is  known  as  the  Fre- 
mont Trail.  Its  greatest  elevation  is  2240  feet.  The 
Gaviota  Pass  lies  along  the  Las  Cruces,  crossing  the  moun- 
tain on  the  old  Spanish  grant  by  that  name,  at  an  altitude 
of  only  1500  feet.  A  horseback  trail  starts  from  the  foot  of 
Montecito   Valley,  follows   up  the  Ficay  to  its  head,  and 


64 


CALIFORNIA. 


then  beurd  a  little  northeast,  across  Section  34,  T.  5,  to 
the  Najiilayegua  Oanon.  Another  crosses  the  mountain  by 
Cold  Stream  Canon,  near  the  head  of  this  valley.  A  good 
trail  also  ascends  the  Pedregosa,  the  east  branch  of  Mis- 
sion Creek,  to  near  its  sources,  where  it  divides,  the  right 
fork  leading  eastward  along  the  summit  to  Section  3U,  T.  5, 
and  then  north  down  the  mountain  ;  the  left  fork  runs 
northwesterly  over  the  divide,  and  then  north  toward  the 
Santa  Ynez  Biver. 

The  county  comprises  an  area  of  nearly  2,000,000  acres, 
one-fourth  of  which  it  is  estimated  are  arable  lands.  That 
portion  lying  north  of  the  Coast  Range  is  mainly  suiteil 
only  to  grazing  purposes,  though  there  are  considerable 
tracts  in  the  upper  valleys  of  the  Santa  Ynez  and  Cuyuma 
which  are  being  successfully  cultivated.  Over  300,000  acres 
lying  between  the  San  Bafael  and  the  Sierra  Madre  moun- 
tains are  still  unsurveyed.  Nearly  all  that  portion  lying 
west  of  the  San  Bafael  and  soutli  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Moun- 
tains was  granted  by  the  Mexican  Government,  in  extensive 
tracts  of  from  one  league,  or  4438  acres,  to  eleven  leagues, 
or  48,420  acres,  without  other  consideration  than  actual 
occupancy. 

During  the  last  thirty  years  Americans  have  succeeded  to 
most  of  these  lordly  domains,  and  obtained  patents  therefor 
from  the  United  States  Government. 

The  Los  Dos  Pueblos,  containing  15,500  acres  (patented) 
is  owned  by  Col.  W.  W.  HoUister,  E.  Cooper  and  others; 
8000  acres  of  the  Nuestra  Senora  del  Refugio,  containing 
26,529  acres  (patented)  by  Thos.  B.  Dibblee  and  Albert 
Dibblee;  La  Espada  containing  15,000  acres  being  a  part  of 
Punta  de  la  Concepcion  (patented),  comprising  24,992  acres, 
by  Col.  W.  W.  Hollister;  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  (patented),  6650 
acres,  by  Col.  W.  W.  Hollister;  6000  acres  of  Las  Crnces 
by  Col.  W.  VV.  Hollister,  Thos.  B.  Dibblee  and  Albert  Dib- 
blee; 23,000  acres  of  the  San  Julian  (patented),  by  Col.  W. 
W.  Hollister,  and  25,000  acres  by  Thos.  B.  Dibblee  and 
Albert  Dibblee;  the  Lompoc  (patented),  containing  42,085 
acres,  has  been  subdivided  and  is  owned  by  the  Lompoc 
colony  and  others;  the  Santa  Bosa  (patented),  containing 


I    ■    i . 


J^On. 


SANTA   BARBARA  COUNT Y. 


6S 


16,300  acres,  is  owned  by  J.  W.  Cooper;  La  Zaca  (pat.), 
4485  acres,  and  Correl  de  Quati  (pat.),  13,322  acres,  by  Don 
Gaspar  Oreua;  Bun  Carlos  de  Jonata  (pat.),  26,634  acres, 
by  R.  T.  Baell.  The  Los  Pinos,  35,49f'  acres,  be- 
longs to  the  Catholic  Church.  H.  &  W.  Pierce  are  the 
owners  of  the  San  Marcos,  containing  35,673  acres,  of  the 
Tequepis,  9819  acres,  and  also  of  Nojoqui.  The  Los  Alnios 
(pat.),  comprising  48,803  acres,  is  owned  by  Dr.  J.  B.  Shi»w, 
Don  Gaspar  Orena,  and  others;  the  Todos  Santos  y  Sun 
Antonio  (pat.),  20,772  acres,  by  H.  M.  Newhall  and  others; 
the  Lomas  de  Purificacion  (pat.),  containing  13,541  acres, 
by  Capt.  T.  W.  Moore;  the  Punta  de  Laguna  (pat.),  26,648 
acres,  by  T.  B.  Jamison  et  al.;  Guadalupe  (pat.),  by  LeBoy 
et  al. ;  Tinaquaic  (pat  ),  8847,  by  W.  Foxen  et  al.;  Sisquoc, 
35,485,  by  Hayden  et  al.;  Suey.  by  Newhall;  Jesus  Maria 
^pat.),  42,184,  and  Casmalia  (pat.),  8841,  by  Benj.  Bur- 
ton, and  the  Los  Prietos  y  Nujalayegua  (pat,),  containing 
48,728  acres,  is  owned  by  Judge  Charles  E.  Huse. 

These  great  estates  have  been  almost  exclusively  devoted 
to  grazing  purposes  down  to  1870,  the  stock  of  a  single  pro- 
prietor sometimes  comprising  70,000  sheep  alone.  Col.  W. 
W.  HoUister,  the  pioneer  and  most  extensive  sheep  raiser 
of  the  Pacific  coast  region,  and  his  associates,  Mr.  Thomas 
B.  Dibblee  and  Mr.  Albert  Dibblee,  have  at  present  about 
60,000  sheep  upon  their  ranchos.  During  the  last  ten 
years,  agriculture  and  horticulture,  though  laboring  under 
the  disadvantages  of  distant  markets,  has  become  the 
most  important  industry  of  the  people.  The  soil  is  gen- 
erally a  fine  rich  loam,  even  to  the  tops  of  the  highest 
hills,  producing  bountifully  nearly  all  the  crops  common  to 
both  northern  and  southern  latitudes,  including  semi-trop- 
ical fruits  in  great  variety.  The  assessed  valuation  of  all 
the  property  in  the  county  for  1870  was  $5,487,053.  The 
county  was  organized  in  1850,  and  contains  a  population  of 
about  10,000,  The  principal  towns  and  settlements  are 
Santa  Barbara,  Montecito,  Car})interia,  Guadalupe,  Central 
City,  Lompoc,  La  Gaviota,  La  Graciosa,  Las  Cruces,  La 
Patera,  Goleta,  and  Santa  Ynez.  Of  these,  Santa  Barbara 
has  become  justly  celebrated  as  a  health  and  pleasure  resoirt 
throughout  the  world. 


ee 


CALIFORNIA. 


11 1 


11!! 


Iff 


CARPINTBRIA.  Leaving  Point  Biuoon,  we  soon  over- 
look the  beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  Carpinteria.  It  ex- 
tends about  six  miles  along  the  ocean,  and  back  from  one 
and  one-half  miles  to  the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Ynez  moun- 
tains; containing  upwards  of  ten  thousand  acres  of  arable 
lands.  Ifc  possesses  an  exceedingly  rich,  warm  soil,  pro- 
ducing without  irrigation  bountiful  crops  of  barley,   lima 


beans,  flax,  potatoes,  corn,  etc.,  and  all  garden  vegetables. 
It  is  also  excollontly  adapted  to  fruit  and  nut  growing,  cou- 
tainiug  the  most  productive  'u-chards  in  the  oastorn  poriion 
of  the  county.  Hon.  Uussoll  Heath,  a  Santa  Barbara  pioneer 
of  1852,  and  the  first  Amorican  settler  in  (Jarpiutoria,  owns 
175  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  valley.     He  first  introduced 


GARPENTERIA. 


ei 


walnuts  und  apricots  here,  and  now  has  the  finest  and  most 
valuable  walnut  grove  in  Southern  California.  It  produces 
yearly  about  one  thousand  bushels  of  walnuts,  worth  from  eight 
to  twelve  cents  per  pound,  and  he  informs  me  that  twenty- 
year-old  trees  are  u.  ;ea8inj;  their  yield  nearly  one-third 
every  year.  Adjoining  Mr.  Heath,  Mr.  O.  N.  Ctidwell,  a 
prominent  horticulturist,  has  transformed  30  acres  of  wil- 
low?, briars,  alder,  poison  oak  and  cactus  into  a  very  fruitful 
and  valuable  orchard  of  apricots,  apples,  pears,  plums, 
quinces,  peaches,  nectarines,  figs,  oranges,  lemons,  limos, 
walnuts,  etc.,  etc.  The  soil  is  fine,  rich  sandy  loam,  the 
situation  sheltered  und  warm,  the  cultivation  perfect.  Nearly 
all  the  fruits  mentioned  do  woU,  but  the  apricots  grown  here 
are  distinguished  for  their  excellence.  Many  of  the  trees, 
especially  the  apricot,  pear  and  apple,  threaten  self-destruc- 
tion by  overbearing  the  present  season.  The  gross  annual 
product  of  this  orchard  is  about  $3,000,  but  with  the  im- 
proved jjrocesses  for  drying  and  canning,  the  fruit  now 
being  introduced  will  soon  considerably  exceed  that  amount. 
Mr.  E.  J.  Knapp,  his  neighbor,  whose  extensive  orchard 
compi'ises  about  3000  trees,  principally  apricots,  plnms, 
upple,  pears  and  walnuts,  has  made  a  marked  success  in 
drying  prunes  from  the  French  plum,  which  compare  favor- 
ably with  the  best  imported. 

The  rural  homo  of  H.  C  Ford,  the  well-known  artist,  is 
the  flower  garden  of  the  valley,  a  gem  oi  floral  beauty.  The 
families  of  Blood,  Hall,  Pierce,  Thurmond,  Knight,  Fish, 
Franklin,  Shields,  Ballard,  Nidevor,  Smith,  Callis,  Bonn, 
Cravens,  and  Lambert,  are  among  its  other  principal  resi- 
dents 

There  is  considerable  small  game,  and  an  occasional  deer 
and  bear  among  the  foothills.  Camping,  one  November 
night,  on  the  side  of  the  mountain  overlooking  the  valley, 
two  wild  animals,  aboui  the  size  of  wolves — which,  I  pre- 
sume, they  wore— came  charging  through  the  chapi)aral 
toward  my  tent.  I  had  just  rolled  into  my  blankets,  when  the 
noise  f  their  approach  brought  me  to  the  entrance,  appar- 
ently just  in  time  to  prevent  them  from  jumping  in.  They 
dashed  up  the  mountjiin  at  a  rate  which  showed  that  I  was 


i 

if 


* 


eg  CALIFORNIA. 

not  the  game  they  were  after,  but  that  I  had  taken  possession 
of  their  run-way  since  their  last  hunt.  The  neighboring 
settlers  were  very  hospitable,  bringing  me  a  feast  of  venison 
and  choice  wild  honey. 

The  shipping  point  of  Carpinteria  is  a  substantial  wharf, 
situated  in  a  little  semi-circle  cove  near  the  head  of  the 
valley.  It  extends  al*out  800  feet  to  sixteen  feet  of  water  at 
low  tide;  is  protected  by  the  mountains  and  hills  on  the  north 
and  west,  and  from  the  southeast  winds  by  a  strong  sea  kelp 
and  a  projecting  re«f.  A  good  depth  of  water  near  shore, 
and  a  clayey  bottom,  atford  a  safe  anchorage.  Mr.  Smith, 
the  owner,  estimated  his  shipments,  from  the  produc -<  -'f 
this  little  valley  for  1981,  at  two  thousand  tons,  compr.  4ng 
twelve  hundred  tons  of  lima  beans  alone. 

From  Carpinteria,  I  descended  Ortega  Hill  to 

MONTECITO.  It  is  a  very  warm,  dry,  beautiful  little 
valley,  containing  upwards  of  6,000  acres  of  orchard  and 
vino-lands,  chiefly  occupied  in  small  tracts  Oranges,  lemons, 
ligs,  apricots,  and  many  other  semi-tropic  fruits  are  success- 
fully grown.  It  is  supplied  with  excellent  water  from  the 
Ficay,  Cold  Spring  <ind  Hot  Spring,  small  mountain  streams. 
It  contains  a  population  of  400  Americans  and  200  Spaniards. 
Its  climate  is  very  equable,  and  much  resorted  to  by  con- 
sumptives Judge  Hall,  Col.  Hayne,  Dr.  Doremus,  Messrs. 
Eddy,  Boiil,  '-'hompson,  Crooks,  Stafford,  Johnstone,  Swift, 
Dcalton,  and  Bristol  are  among  its  best  known  residents.  In 
1874,  1  camped,  for  a  few  days,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Hot 
Springs  Caiion.  One  evening,  I  heard  the  sound  of  music 
a  little  way  oft".  Guided  by  it,  I  soon  reached  the  entrance 
of  the  Big  Grapevine  enclosure,  and  accepting  a  cordial  in- 
vitation to  enter,  found  mj'self  in  the  midst  of  a  genuine 
Spanish  fandango,  under  the  wide-spreading  branches  of 
that  enormous  vine.  I  remained  for  an  hour,  an  interested 
observer  of  the  novel  and  hilarious  scene.  Ten  or  a  dozen 
couple  at  once  waltzed  to  tvell-played  Spanish  airs,  until  it 
seemed  as  if  ])erpetual  motion  had  finally  been  discovered. 
One  young  Spanijird  attested  the  genuineness  of  his  affections 
for  a  pretty  Senorita,  by  breaking  over  her  head  of  raven 


t'».Sta^'— w»»w 


MONTECITO. 


m 


•f. 


) 


black  hail  sixteen  '^ascarones — eggs  filled  with  fine  cut  tinsel 
paper  of  various  colors  —  which  glistened  like  a  shower  of 
diamonds.  8he  reciprocated  the  attention  by  breaking  some 
half  a  dozen  over  his  head.  Tliey  cost  t'venty-five  cents 
each — rather  expensive  for  a  mere  flirtation. 

Montecito  has  an  ocean  frontage  of  about  three  miles. 
The  Matanzas  property,  so  called  from  having  f ui  nished  the 


BIO  GRAPE  VINE  OF  MONTECITO. 

site  of  extensive  slaughter  and  tallow-trying  works  in  the 
<l.i-y  3'eara  of  18G2-3,  lies  near  the  Southeastern  extremity. 
When  death,  by  starvation,  seems  inevitable,  cattle  and 
sheep  are  killed  by  the  tens  of  thousands,  their  hides  and 
pelts  stripped  off,  and  their  bodies  thrown  into  huge  vats, 
and  what  tallow  remains  extracted.     Camping  here  in  1877, 


$1 


>. ' . 


ill 


70 


CALIFORNIA. 


I 


I  found  excellent  water,  near  the  dry  bed  of  a  small  arroyo, 
at  a  depth  of  twelve  feet,  and  less  than  twenty  rods  from  the 
ocean.  A  little  way  o£f  was  an  abandoned  well  of  worthl  tss 
brackish  water.  I  was  advised  where  to  dig  by  an  old  pio- 
neer, familiar  with  the  underflow  of  the  mountain  springs.  I 
also  discovered  a  brace  of  wild  cuts  which  follow  down  the 
arroyo  beds  from  the  mountains  at  night  and  carry  off  the 
settler's  fowl,  and  sometimes  the  young  of  o^her  domestic 
animals.  They  startled  me  from  a  sound  sleep  at  midnight, 
by  breaking  out  into  an  alarmingly  loud  and  desperate  chorus 
close  to  my  tent.  I  seized  an  old  army  sabre,  the  only  weapon 
at  hand,  and  sallied  out;  they  did  not  wait  for  an  encounter, 
which  vrua  doubtless  fortunate  for  me,  but  retreated  rapidly 
toward  t)ie  mountains.  This  valley  was  formerly  thickly 
covered  with  live  oak,  and  coi  siderable  still  remains,  especi- 
ally on  the  Matanzos  tract,  though  it  is  being  rapidly  cut  for 
fuel,  now  worth  17  per  cord  at  Santa  Barbara.  Several  years 
ago,  an  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  to  obtain  oil  just 
below  the  Matanzas,  and  also  at  the  foothills  three  miles 
back.  The  oil  is  there  in  such  abundance  that  it  flows  into 
the  ocean  from  the  shore  at  several  points,  and  will  doubt- 
less be  reached,  in  paying  quantities,  when  sufficient  capital, 
energy  and  experience  undertake  the  work. 

THE  SANTA  BARBARA  HOT  SULPHUR  SPRINGS 

are  situated  in  a  picturesque  canon,  at  un  elevation  of  1,500 
feet  above  and  three  miles  distant  from  the  ocean,  and  six 
miles  from  Santa  Barbara.  They  comprise  some  twenty  in 
number,  ranging  in  temperature  from  60^  to  120'^,  and  are 
considered  very  efficacious  for  the  healing  of  many  diseases. 
Their  best  endorsement,  perhaps,  is,  that  they  are  not  only 
much  resorted  to  by  people  from  abroad,  but  also  by  tlio 
resident  population.  I  have  known  persons  to  bo  greatly 
benefited  by  their  use,  especially  rheumatics.  Tourists 
should  visit  them  for  tho  extended  and  magnificont  view 
which  they  afford  of  the  lu-.-nitiful  valleys  of  Snuta  Barbara, 
Montocito  and  Carpinteria,  and  of  the  ocean  !ind  the  islands, 
twenty  miles  away. 


y^»>.■^rl^a^,^lwp^^'i^p^jpt  ■'  '"^ff*— 


SANTA    BASnARA. 


71 


Lato  the  tenth  day  out  from  San  Diego,  riding  65  miles 
in  one  day,  I  entered  the  beautiful  city  of 


SANTA  BARBARA,  the  great  health  and  pleasure  resort 
of  Southern  California.  Santa  Barliara  is  situated  on  the  sea 
coast,  iu  the  southern  part  of  the  county,  288  miles  southeast 
of  San  Francisco.  It  is  built  upon  a  beautiful  slope,  gradu- 
ally rising  from  the  ocean  back  for  a  distance  of  one  mile  and 
a-half  to  the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains,  which, 
rising  to  an  elevation  of  over  3,500  feet,  encircle  it  about  on 
the  north  and  east.  It  is  further  enclosed  by  a  range  of  hills 
some  200  feet  in  height,  extending  from  the  sea-shore  along 
its  western  suburbs.  These  are  the  immediate  sunoundings 
which  nature  has  bestowed  upon  this  singularly  favored  spot. 
Fifty  miles  west  of  Santa  Barbara,  at  Point  Concepcion,  as 
we  have  already  seen,  the  coast  lino  turns  from  a  southeast- 
erly course,  and  runs  almost  due  east  to  Point  Rincon. 

About  twenty  miles  to  the  southward  the  islands  of  Ana- 
capa,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Cruz,  and  Sai?  Miguel  rise  to  an 
elevation  of  over  2500  feet.  With  the  ocean  on  the  south  to 
moderate  the  heat  of  Summer  and  the  cold  of  Winter,  the 
mountains  a^id  foothills  on  the  north  and  east  and  west  to 
protect  it  from  the  severity  of  the  north  winds;  with  Point 
Concepcion  standing  guard  against  the  cold  northwest  winds 
and  currents,  warding  them  off  thirty  miles  at  sea,  and  the 
overlapping  islands  of  Saiita  Rosa  and  Santa  Cruz  to  shelter 
it  from  the  force  of  the  southwost  ocoan  winds,  Santa  Bai'- 
bara  has  deservedly  acquired  a  world-wide  re|)utation  for  its 
mild,  equable,  and  solnbrious  climate.  And  the  same  causes, 
the  great  natural  storm  barriers  by  land  and  sea,  which 
secure  such  exemotion  from  sudden  changes  of  temperature, 
alVord  also  th<^  most  perfect  land-locked  roadstead  from 
Alaska  to  San  Diego.  When  the  ocean  storm-swells  carry 
away  the  wharfs  at  other  points  along  the  coast,  they  stand 
secure  here.  I  have  sailed  from  San  Fi'ancisco  down  the 
coast  several  times,  eiif^ountering  strong  winds  and  rough 
seas  until  past  Point  Concepcion,  wlien  the  winds  and  waves 
subsided,  and  the  sea  became  as  suddenly*  calm  as  if  obey- 
ing  some  omnipotent  command,  "Peace,   be  still."     Thin 


if' 


'-:  H 


."fl 


72 


CALIFORNIA. 


pai-t  of  the  coast  was  donbtless  the  favorite  abode  of  the 
aboi-iginal  tribes  in  pre-historic  times.  Cabrillo,  a  Portu- 
guestj  navigator,  found  them  here  in  large  numbers  more 
than  340  years  ago.  The  Smithsonian  Institute  contains  an 
exceedingly  interesting  collection  of  tbe  relics  of  these 
people,  exhumed  from  the  numerous  burying  places  found 
along  the  sea-shore  and  on  the  onpv.nite  islands.    The  Span- 


ish priests  establish©<l  a  Mission  hf  re  nearly  one  hundreil 
years  ago,  for  the  conversion  oi  the  natives  to  the  Catholic 
faith.  This  was  the  beginning  of  its  o<-  -upation  by  white 
men.  Thirty  years  later,  in  1825.  Santa  iiurbaia  contaiiuMl 
about  a  thousand  people,  ehieliy  (  .ilifornians,  and  Indians 
attached  to  the  Mission.     During  the  succeeding  f(»rty  years 


THE  ARLINGTON  HOTEL  is  the  best  a] 
a  whole  squai-e  of  five  acres  of  ground,  which  i 
equal  on  the  Pacittc  Coa«t.     Horse  ours  lead  di 


3N  HOTEL  is  the  beat  appointed  hotel  in  Oalif  )rniu<MitHuieof  San  Francisco,  beinff  rIeRigned  and  especially  bnilt  for  iBreU'lass  patronage.    The  Honse  oconplM 
)  acres  of  ground,  which  is  superbly  laid  ont  in  lawns,  flower  gaid^ris.  etc.     As  a  deiigbtful  home  for  faDailifs  or  inyajicls,  The  Arlington  of  Santa  Burbara  has  no 
>a8t.     Horse  curs  lead  directly  to  the  ocean  beat-li  where  excellent  sea  bathing  cnn  be  had.  i  W.  N.  00WLE8,  Manager. 


ui 


I 


mil 


SANTA    JiAIiUAHA. 


73 


Rome  seventy-five  Americana  settled  here,  but  ns  Into  us  1869 
the  Spanish  nnd  native  Califoruian  element  largely  predom- 
inated. Then  followed  a  considerable  influx  of  people  from 
the  Eastern  and  Northern  States,  rni>idly  Americanizing  tlu^ 
place,  and  building  up  the  Santa  Barbara  of  to-day.  It  now 
contains  a  population  of  about  3600 — 2000  Americans  and 
1500  of  other  nationalities,  chiefly  Spanish  and  Californians. 
It  is  regularly  laid  out  into  360  blocks,  450  feet  square,  with 
streets  from  60  to  80  feet  in  width.  A  good  supply  of  moun- 
tain water  is  distributed  in  iron  pipes  throughout  the  city. 
The  great  white  face  of  the  old  Mission— its  first  and  most 
interesting  building,  from  its  elevation  at  the  foothills  340 
feet  above  the  ocean,  though  in  a  decaying  condition,  is 
still  the  moat  couspicuoua  landmark.  The  church  sjjirea, 
Colleges  and  High  School  buildings,  Theater,  Court 
House,  Cook's  Clock  building,  The  Arlington,  and 
prominent  business  blocks  next  engage  the  attention. 
State  street  is  the  principal  business  thoroughfare.  It 
extends  from  the  beach  back  to  the  foothills,  ia  lighted  with 
gas,  well  sprinkled,  and  traversed  every  few  minutes  by 
horse-cars  as  far  as  The  Arlington.  Very  good  blocks  and 
buildings  of  brick  and  stone  rise  here  and  there  among  rows 
of  cheap  one-story  stnictures,  and  the  low  tiled-roofed  adobes 
of  the  original  inhabitants.  Encircling  this  business  center, 
and  extending  from  the  beach  to  the  foothills,  are  the  homes 
of  its  citizens.  On  the  higher  grounds  in  the  western  sub- 
urbs are  grouped  many  fine  residences  and  cosy  cottages  of 
the  principal  residents.  The  homes  of  Don  Gaspar  Orena, 
John  Edwards,  J.  W.  Calkins  and  Joseph  Cooper  are  es- 
pecially noticeable,  both  for  the  elegance;  of  their  villas  in 
design  and  finish,  and  the  great  beauty  of  their  perfectly 
kept  lawns  and  gardens.  In  their  midst,  occupying  a  whole 
block,  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  lawn,  tastefully  oruamentod 
with  a  choice  selection  of  evergreens  and  semi-tropic  i>lants 
and  flowers,  with  fountains  playing  and  tamo  deer  feeding, 
stands 

THE  ARLINGTON,  a  magnificent  hotel  (istiiblishment, 
with  broad  \)iazzas  and  stairways,  capacious  and  richly  fuv- 


a      U 


*f 


'I' 


' 


# 

I'-' 

Ell 

i    i    : 
J    '    ' 


74 


CALIFORNIA. 


nished  apartments,  extfln»ive  dining  hall,  fine  reading  and 
billiard  rooms  and  telegraph  office,  all  under  the  able  man- 
agement of  W.  N.  Oowles. 

Col.  Hollister,  the  owner,  has  just  oompleted  on  the 
adjoining  blocks  The  EUwood,  u  magnificent  brick  addi- 
tion, with  broad  verandas,  largo,  sunny,  elegantly  furnished 
rooms,  to  accommodate  the  overflow  of  The  Arlington,  and 
those  who  desire  to  live  on  the  European  plan. 

Frequently  the  guests  are  afforded  a  special  treat  by  the 
presence  of  the  Colonel,   a  most  affable  and  whole-souled 


iii!i^i;r:i> 


THE  ARLINGTON. 

W     N.    OOWLES.  •  MAhAOIR 


gentleman,  the  proprietor  of  great  estates,  the  main  depend- 
ence of  many  important  local  interests  and  generous  sup- 
porter of  Avorthy  public  enterprises. 

Mr.  Thomas  J3.  Dibblee,  an  extensive  and  wealthy  land- 
owner, is  building  the  most  magnificent  residence  on  the 
Southern  Coast  upon  the  headland  by  the  seaside. 

A  little  to  the  south,  fronting  the  ocean,  along  an  excel- 
lent shore  for  bathing,  is  situated  the  Burton  Mound 
property,  which  comprises  a  tract  of  som<^  25  acres,  exceed- 


wm 


BANTA    UAHUAUA. 


75 


ingly  well  adapted  for  the  site  of  an  oxtoiiHivo  watering  es- 
tablishment. 

Gradually  sloping  on  all  sides  from  a  central  elevation  of 
about  40  feet  above  the  ocean,  it  is  covered  with  an  abund- 
ant growth  of  pepper,  acacia  and  olive  trees,  and  plants  and 
flowers  in  great  variety.  Flowing  springs  of  excellent 
water — one  highly  charged  with  sulphur — burst  forth  from 
its  surface. 

One  block  east  of  tliis  valuable  property,  at  the  foot  of 
State  Street,  is  situated  Stearns'  Wharf,  built  in  1873,  by 
John  P.  Stearns,  one  of  the  most  public-spirited  and  influ- 
ential citizens.  It  is  from  20  to  80  feet  in  width,  extending 
into  the  ocean  about  2,000  feet,  reaching  a  depth  of  20  feet 
of  water,  and  is  one  of  the  most  accessible,  substantial  and 
safe  landings  on  the  entire  coast. 

Mayor  Fernald's  handsome  residence  and  beautiful 
grounds  are  a  few  blocks  distant. 

Santa  Barbara  contains  a  large  number  of  intelligent, 
cultured  and  refined  people  of  the  best  New  England  type. 
The  various  religious  denominations,  the  Congregational, 
Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Baptist,  Episcopalian  and  Cath- 
olic, each  have  their  respective  houses  of  worship,  and  sus- 
tain regular  services.  Educational  matters  receive  that  atten- 
tion which  their  importance  demands. 

The  City  Public  Schools  are  provide  d  with  suitable 
buildings  and  an  eflScient  corps  of  instructors.  The  St. 
Vincent  School,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Sisters  of 
Charity,  furnishes  good  educationat  facilities  for  those  of 
their  faith. 

There  are  orders  of  Good  Templars,  Masons,  Odd  Fel- 
lows, United  Workingmen,  etc.  The  Odd  Fellows'  Library 
and  Beading  Room,  well  supplied  with  standard  works  and 
current  periodicals  of  the  day,  is  free  to  all  visitors.  Dis- 
tinguished lecturers  and  artists  occasionally  come  this  way, 
although  the  residents  are  abundantly  able,  from  their  own  re- 
sources, to  not  only  entertain  themselves,  but  strangers 
also.  I  have  attended  during  the  past  winter  three  exhibi- 
tions, which  afibrded  me  much  interest  and  pleasure,  and  a 
new  revelation  of  their  general  intelligence  and  culture,  and 


'II 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


^ 


76 


(JALIFORNIA. 


of  the  variety  and  excellence  of  the  productions  of  their 
adopted  home. 

For  an  Art  Loan  Exhibition  they  brought  from  their 
own  homes  over  1600  articles  of  bric-a-brnc,  curios,  paint- 
ings, porcelain,  China,  unique  Indian  relics,  gold  and  silver, 
laces,  embroideries,  etc.,  rich,  rare  and  costly. 

Their  Citrus  Fair  and  Flower  Shows  were  most  surprising 
displays  of  the  variety  and  excellence  of  the  semi-tropic 
fruits,  and  great  wealth  and  beauty  of  the  flower  world,  as 
represented  from  their  own  orchards  and  gardens. 

Life  on  the  streets  is  more  cosmopolitan  and  interesting 
than  the  number  of  inhabitants  indicates.  Travelers  from 
all  parts  of  the  world  sojourn  here.  The  customs  and  man- 
ners of  all  the  leading  nationalities  may  be  observed  ; 
Protestants,  Catholics,  Jews  and  the  "Heathen  Chinee" 
mix  in  friendly  intercourse. 

The  native  Califomians  dash  by  as  if  riding  a  steeple 
chase,  with  the  young  Americans  not  far  behind.  Graceful- 
riding,  handsome  ladies  gallop  fearlessly  along;  phaetons, 
English  dog-carts,  buck-boards,  elegant  carriages  and 
omnibuses,  country  wagons  of  various  make  and  in  all 
states  of  repair,  conveying  all  sorts  of  people,  drawn  by 
all  kinds  and  conditions  of  draught  animals,  file  past.  Nearly 
everybody  rides.  Horses  are  still  cheap,  and  their  keeping 
inexpensive. 

Riding,  bathing,  boating,  fishing,  hunting  and  camping- 
oiit  afford  excellent  opportunities  for  healthful  and  enjoy- 
able recreation  for  all  classes  of  visitors.  The  natural 
advantages  for  safe,  enjoyable  and  beneficial  bathing  are 
unsurpassed  on  this  coast. 

The  temperature  of  the  sea  water  off  Santa  Barbara  is 
about  60'  in  winter  and  64°  in  summer;  the  shore  slopes 
gradually,  with  a  smooth,  even  bottom;  there  is  no  under- 
tow, no  sharks,  nor  rough,  irregular  surf  to  alarm  the 
timid  or  the  invalid.  From  my  cottage,  near  the  beach,  I 
have  seen  people  bathing  throughout  the  winter. 

The  ocean  dri^e  is  also  a  very  fine  one,  extend- 
ing for  some  six  miles  one  unbroken,  level  stretch,  over 
the  clean,  white  sand,  free  from  all  dust,  in  the  cool,  sweet 
nnd  wholesome  sea  air. 


•  !■ 


SANTA    BAKBABA. 


77 


EXCURSIONS  FllOM   SANTA  UMJUAUA. 

Santa    Barbara    is    becoming    more    and    more     the 
initial  point  of  excursions  to  all  parts  of  Southern  California. 
There  are  probably  now  at  this  writing,  the  4th  of  June, 
twenty-five  parties,  residents  and  sojourners  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, camping  out  for  health,  hunting,  fishing  and  recreation 
in  the  Southern  Coast  Counties,  including  two  or  three  en 
route  for  the  famous  Yosemite  Valley,  488  miles  distant.     I 
meet  them  wherever  I  go — in  the  mountains,  in  the  valleys, 
by  the  sea-shore,  at  the  hot  springs,  in  parties  of  from  two 
to  a  dozen,  in  pursuit  of  some  of  these  things.     They  are 
seldom  disappointeel.     There  is  health  for  the  invalid,  game 
for  the  hunter,  glorious   scenery  for  the  tourist,  on  every 
hand;  the  climate  is  the  most  favorable  in  the  world  for  field 
life.     Camping  outfits  are  inexpensive — good  riding  horses 
range  from  $40  to  $75;  a  good  pony  team,  harness  and  wagon 
can  be  bought  for  from  $200  to  $250;  a  muslin  wall-tent,  9x12, 
will  cost  about  $10.     Livery  horses  in  the  saddle  are  fur- 
nished for  from  $1  to  $2  per  day;  single  teams  from  $3  to  $4, 
and  double  team,  with  driver,  from  $4  to  $6  a  day.     The 
native  California  horses  are  unsurpassed  for  the  saddle,  of 
great  endurance,    swift  and   sure-footed.      I   recently  met 
Jose  Gutierrez  driving  a  band  of  fine  specimens  to  New- 
hall,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  from  whence  they 
will  be  shipped  to  Boston,  for  the  stable  of  Mr.  J.  Malcolm 
Forbes.     He  says  that  these  animals  are  inferior  to  their 
choice  stock  prior  to  American  occupation;  that  his  brother 
Antonio,  28  years  ago,  rode  from  Santa  Barbara  to  Los  An- 
geles— to  see  his  sweetheart  -a  distance  of  110  miles,   in 
eleven  hours  and  a  half;  and  that  he,  on  a  similar  mission  of 
love,  rode  from   Los   Alamos  to   Santa  Barbara,    over  20 
leagues,  or  64  miles,   in  six  hours.     Gaspar  de  la  Guerra 
once  rode  from  Santa  Barbara  to  Ventura,  a  distance  of  30 
miles,  in  one  hour  and  fifty-nine  minutes.     These  wonderful 
feats  of  fast  riding  seem   almost  incredible,  but  are  well 
vouched  for.     Many  of  their  horses  were  sired  by  the  best 
imported  blood,  which,  for  generations,   had  been   trained 
exclusively  for  the  saddle.    These  are  instances  of  the  possi- 
bilities of  fast  riding,  which  my  readers  are  not  likely  to  at- 


ifj,| 


■  1 


';'.« 


1^9 


78 


VALIFORNIA. 


tempt,  either  for  love  or  money,  or  for  any  other  purpose. 
Five  or  six  miles  an  hour  is  fast  enough  for  all  ordinary  oc- 
casions, and  especially  for  health  or  pleasure.  Those  who 
hire  will  find  good  safe  horses  and  teams  at  McPhail's  stables, 
opposite  the  Morris  House,  at  the  Occident,  G.  W.  Leland's, 
and  also  at  N.  C.  Pitcher's  on  Garden  street,  opposite  the 
Plaza,  who  makes  a  specialty  of  furnishing  gentle  saddle 
horses,  and  cheap  rides  around  town.  Where  to  go  and  how 
to  go,  are  so  peculiarly  questions  of  personal  taste,  want  or 
necessity,  that  it  is  very  presumptuous  to  offer  any  specific 
advice  in  the  matter. 

Among  the  short  rides  and  drives  in  and  near  the  city, 
those  along  the  sea-shore,  upon  the  mesa  on  the  west,  to 
Point  of  Rocks,  and  the  Light  House,  to  the  Mission,  to  Dr. 
Finch's,  on  the  summit  of  the  nearest  foothills  on  the  north- 
east; up  the  Mission  Canon  two  and  one-half  miles  to  the 
pleasant  mountain  home  of  W.  D.  Squiers,  1085  feet  above 
the  ocean;  seven  miles  to  Cathedral  Oaks;  seven  and  one- 
half  miles  to  Indian  Orchard;  eight  miles  toBartlett  Canon; 
four  miles  to  the  charming  valley  and  homes  of  Montecito; 
six  miles  to  the  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  deserve  mention.  A 
drive  through  the  beautiful  valley  of  Cp  pinter^a  will  afford 
a  very  enjoyable  day's  excursion.  The  American  Restaurant, 
at  the  post-oflSce,  near  the  foot  of  the  valley,  Mrs.  C.  Rich- 
ardson, proprietress,  provides  good  meals  for  excursionists, 
at  all  hours.  Mr.  E.  Dailey,  living  at  Point  Rincon,  about 
four  miles  beyond,also  entertains  travelers.  There  is  excellent 
fishing  at  Santa  Rosa  Island,  in  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel) 
opposite  the  city,  and  very  good  at  times,  from  Stearns' 
Wharf.  There  are  frequent  excursions  by  sailing  vessels, 
and  occasionally  by  steamer,  to  the  islands  of  Santa  Rosa, 
and  Santa  Cruz.  For  trout  fishing,  and  larger  game  than 
rabbit,  quail,  pigeons,  and  water-fowl,  cross  the  Santa  Ynez 
mountains  by  the  Montecito  or  Mission  trails,  or  the  San 
Marcos  toll  road,  into  the  upper  valley  of  the  Santa  Ynez 
River.  This  stream  abounds  with  trout;  and  deer,  mountain 
sheep,  mountain  lion,  wild  cats  and  bear  are  common  in  the 
valley  foothills. 

If  possible,  do  not  fail  to  visit  the  Ojai  Valley  in  Ventura 


EXaUHSlOWS    FROM    SANTA     UAHHARA. 


79 


1 


county,  38  miles  from  Santa  Barbara  via  the  Casitas  Pass 
road.  Handsome  live  oak  parks,  blossoming  orchards,  fields 
of  waving  grain  and  green  pastures,  clear  mountain  streams, 
the  brightest  skies,  balmiest  atmosphere,  and  the  glorious 
views  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  make  it  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  enjoyable  spots  in  the  world. 

Santa  Barbara  is  at  present  85  miles  from  the  nearest 
railroad  station — Newhall,  on  the  Southern  Pacific — but  I 
have  no  doubt  that  this  beautiful  coast  country,  unequalled 
in  climate,  and  so  rich  in  natural  resources,  will  event- 
ually become  the  favorite  rail  route  of  travel  between  the 
Atlantic  sea-board  and  San  Francisco,  via  the  Southern 
railways. 

Besides  the  regular  U.  S.  mail  stages  up  and  down  the 
coast.  Ruiz  runs  a  daily  stage  to  and  from  Ventura;  fare,  $2. 

EXCUUSIONS  FROM   SANTA  BARBARA. 

Trip  No.  l.—From  Santa  Barbara  to  the  Mountain  Glen  Hot 
Springs.     Hound  trip,  50  Miles. 

THE  MOUNTAIN  GLEN  HOT  SPRINGS,  owned  by 
Mr.  T.  H.  Hough,  are  situated  in  the  Santa  Ynez  Range  of 
Mountains,  in  Santa  Barbara  County,  about  25  miles  north- 
west of  Santa  Barbara.  The  property  embraces  a  very  pic- 
turesque tract  of  140  acres,  and  though  but  little  improved 
at  present,  is  a  favorite  resort  for  campers,  who  pay  a  small 
sum,  not  exceeding  fifty  cents  a  day,  for  parties  of  four  or 
five,  for  the  use  of  the  grounds  and  baths. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  1881,  I  started  thence  from  Santa 
Barbara,  mounted  on  a  strong,  active  mule,  provided  with 
two  blankets  and  two  days'  rations.  For  seven  miles  t^'T 
road  leads  westerly  throiigh  the  rich  and  pleasant  valley  oi 
Goleta.  The  farmers  were  in  the  midst  of  hay  harvest,  and 
preparing  the  ground  for  bean  planting. 

Well-kept  orchards  of  almonds,  plums,  pears,  apples, 
peaches,  apricots,  etc.,  were  full  of  green  fruit  and  blos- 
soms. The  green  fields  looked  promising;  fine  fat  cows 
were  feeding  along  the  roadside  upon  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
alfileria. 


I 


•i 


80 


CALIFORNIA. 


I 


Afc  Goleta  the  road  turns  at  right  angles  toward  the  foot- 
hills, two  miles  distant,  over  a  gooc*  wagon  road,  past  sev- 
eral small  and  well  tilled  farms. 

Turning  to  the  left,  and  crossing  the  San  Jose,  a  small, 
clear  stream,  and  opening  the  right  hand  gate,  the  ascent  of 
the  mountain  begins. 

This  is  the  San  Marcos  Pass  toll  road,  built  about  thirteen 
years  ago  by  Flint  &  Bixby,  mail  contractors,  at  an  expense 
of  $40,000.  It  is  a  long,  strong  pull  of  three  and  a  half 
miles  to  the  summit,  2240  feet  above  the  sea;  and  you  will 
need  let  your  animals  rest  before  it  is  reached,  and 
while  they  are  blowing,  take  a  survey  of  the  valley  below  — 
the  ocean  and  the  islands  of  Santa  Cruz  and  Santa  Rosa, 
of  Santa  Barbara,  and  the  coast  as  far  south  as  Port  Rin- 
cou.  This  view  alone  is  a  rich  reward  for  all  the  fatigue  of 
the  whole  trip. 

A  little  past  the  summit,  but  less  than  half  way  over  the 
mountain,  in  a  lonely  glen,  lives  Pat.  Kinnevan,  the  toll 
man.  He  has  occupied  his  mountain  home  for  thirteen 
years,  and  would  not  think  of  exchanging  it  for  a  residence 
in  the  City  of  Washington,  where  he  formerly  lived.  Pat.  is 
right,  and  it  would  be  vastly  better  for  his  countrymen  and 
the  country  of  their  adoption,  if  they  would  abandon  the 
cities  and  make  homes  of  their  own  in  the  great  West.  The 
toll  charges  are  $2.00  for  four-horse  wagon,  $1.50  for  two- 
horse,  $1.00  for  one-horse,  50  cents  for  a  trail  wagon,  25 
cents  for  a  saddle  horse,  10  cents  a  head  for  cattle,  and  2i 
cents  for  sheep. 

I  was  somewhat  surprised  to  find  that  I  had  come  eight 
miles  since  leaving  Goleta,  and  that  it  was  only  nine  miles  to 
the  Hot  Springs.  There  is  no  better  animal  for  mountain 
roads  than  a  good,  well-trained  mule, 

A  little  beyond  Kinnevan's  I  passed  a  small  apiary,  the 
owner  living  in  a  cabin  close  by.  A  collection  of  fine  roses 
and  other  flowers  in  the  garden  showed  a  woman' s  tasteful 
care.  This  is  the  natural  home  of  the  honey  bee.  In  ordi- 
nary years  a  single  stand  or  swarm  will  produce  from  150  to 
250  pounds.  I  am  in  formed  by  Judge  D.  P.  Hatch,  of  the  firm 
of  G.  A.  Temi)le  <k  Co.,  that  their  aj)iary,  the  Queen  City— 


HANTA    BARBARA 


81 


n 


,i'!r 


m 


A  SOUTHERN  CAUFOKNIA  APIAUY, 


82 


(JALIFORNIA. 


consisting  of  300  double  stands — produced  51,000  pounds  of 
honey  during  last  season,  or  an  average  of  over  170  pounds  to 
the  stand.  They  rent  the  bee  privileges  of  the  Najalayegua 
Grant,  comprising  33,000  acres,  situated  on  the  upper  Santa 
Ynez  Biver,  six  miles  to  the  northeast. 

The  descent  of  the  north  slope  of  the  mountain  is  grad- 
ual, following  the  course  of  a  small  clear  stream,  called  the 
Los  Laureles,  by  what  is  known  as  the  Fremont  Trail. 

I  can  understand  how  the  soldiers  and  their  horses  could 
have  made  the  passage  of  these  mountains  by  the  Indian 
trail  of  35  years  ago,  but  by  what  means  and  way  the  cannon 
were  taken  over,  the  famous  Pathfinder  himself  must 
explain. 

About  half  way  down  the  road  winds  around  a  deep 
gorge,  along  its  precipitous  sides,  affording  the  grandest 
views,  embracing  the  eastern  portion  of  the  San  Bafael 
Mountains  and  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Valley. 

Descending  the  foot-hills,  I  crossed  several  small  streams 
of  the  clearest,  purest  water,  then  through  a  pleasant  live 
oak  opening,  when  the  ruins  of  an  old  adobe  are  seen  in 
the  distance. 

Just  before  reaching  it,  I  rode  cautiously  up  to  the 
bank  of  the  Hot  Springs  Creek,  and  without  dismounting 
counted  seven  trout,  of  various  sizes,  up  to  eight  or  ten 
inches  in  length. 

Passing  the  adobe,  and  to  the  north  of  an  enclosed  field  on 
the  left,  then  one  mile  up  an  easy  grade  into  a  narrow  wooded 
canon,  past  a  little  spring  on  the  right,  and  I  dismounted 
among  a  group  of  happy  children  from  the  tents  of  the 
campers  at  the  Mountain  Glen  Hot  Springs. 

Hot  springs  and  cold  springs  and  warm  springs  of 
almost  any  desired  degree  of  temperature  and  strength  may 
be  found  within  half  a  mile  along  the  caiion.  I  sampled 
several,  and  thrust  my  hand  into  others,  and  found  their 
temperature  ranging  from  60'  to  over  100^',  and  all  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur.  The  principal  spring  is  about 
six  feet  in  diameter  and  three  feet  deep,  walled  up  on  all 
sides,  and  provided  with  a  rustic  bench,  but  uninclosed 
except  by  the  foliage  of  the  surrounding  trees.     The  tem- 


EXCUimiONS   FROM   SANTA    BARBARA. 


88 


perature  is  about  100°,  and  afforded  me  at  an  early  hour  in  the 
morning  a  most  enjoyable  bath. 

Good  water  is  convenient,  fuel  abundant,  small  game 
and  trout  plentiful,  wild  deer  and  bear,  if  desired,  within 
easy  range  of  experienced  hunters .  The  tenters  were  most 
hospitable,  and  insisted  upon  adding  to  my  supply  of  bed- 
ding a  warm  comforter  for  the  night. 

I  left  them  at  so  early  an  hour  in  the  morning  and  rode 
so  rapily  over  the  mountains,  that  the  bells  of  the  old  Mis- 
sion were  clanging  for  12  o'clock  noon  as  I  entered  Santa 
Barbara. 


M 
m 

m 


I -'-ill 


Trip  No.  2.  —Horszhack  from,  Santa  Barbara  to  Guadalupe, 
via  Gaviota  Pass  (returning  via  tlie  San  Marcos).  Bound 
Trip,  250  miles. 

Travel  in  California  is  always  full  of  interest  to  the  intel- 
ligent observer;  it  is  never  monotonous;  there  is  some- 
thing grand  and  beautiful  in  its  scenery  for  every  eye;  fresh 
and  novel  scenes  surprise  you  on  every  hand.  The  variety, 
excellence  and  extent  of  the  productions  of  the  compara- 
tively small  area  under  cultivation,  suggest  the  greatness  of 
its  resources  when  fully  developed.  Hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  fat  sheep  and  cattle  attest  its  adaptation  for  stock 
raising;  bountiful  harvests  of  wheat,  barley,  Indian  corn, 
potatoes  and  other  staple  products  prove  its  fitness  for  agri- 
culture, while  orchard  trees  in  great  variety,  bending  under 
their  burdens  of  fruit,  invite  the  horticulturist. 

Santa  Barbara  is  rich  in  all  these  resources.  The  sub- 
jects of  this  sketch  are  in  that  portion  lying  between  the 
coast  and  the  San  Rafael  Mountains  and  Santa  Barbara 
and  the  Santa  Maria  River. 

Where  I  have  tarried  but  a  few  moments,  the  tourist  for 
health  or  pleasure  may  profitably  linger  for  days  or  weeks, 
and  things  that  I  have  barely  touched  upon,  merit  an 
extended  notice. 

I  have  promised  to  introduce  as  little  "hearsay  testi- 
mony "  as  possible.  It  is  Emerson,  I  believe,  who  has  said 
that  "one  fact  is  worth  a  thousand  mere  suppositions  or 


%ik 


84 


CALIFORNIA. 


common  reports."    This  is  my  upology  for  giving  so  much 
personal  experience. 

I  rode  out  of  town  past  the  home  of  that  enthusiastic 
flower-lover,  Dr.  Dimraick.  Santa  13arbara  saved  him  from 
a  consumptive's  grave  twelve  years  ago,  and  his  rare  and  beau- 
tiful collection  of  flowers  has  been  a  perpetual  praise  otter- 
ing ever  since. 

Now  on  the  right,  through  thick  rows  of  Monterey  cypress, 
I  catch  glimpses  of 

Mr.  John  Spence's  Extensive  Fuuit,  Plant,  Shuuh 
AND  Floweu  Nuuseky.  He  can  fill  a  rose  order  with 
150  varieties,  by  mail,  if  desired.  Twenty  acres  are  do- 
devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  pampas,  whicli  thrive  better  in 
Santa  Barbara  County  than  any  other  portion  of  Southern 
California.  They  bear  a  few  plumes  the  first  year,  and 
when  three  or  four  years  old  produce  from  150  to  200  each. 
Mr.  Spence  has  already  received  orders  this  season  for  over 
40,000  plumes,  at  $60  per  thousand. 

Elevated  rolling  mesa  lauds,  covered  along  the  north 
slope  with  pleasant  groves  of  handsome  live  oaks,  shut  out 
the  ocean  view  for  several  miles.  A  small  laguna,  christened 
Lake  Fenton,  perfects  the  beauty  of  Ihe  landscape. 

The  principal  portion  of  this  very  valuable  tract — 
destined  in  the  near  future  to  furnish  Santa  Barbara  with 
magnificent  villa  sites — belongs  to  the  Thomas  Hope  estate, 
originally  the  Los  Posas  Collara,  grant,  containing  4681 
acres,  and  extending  from  the  suburbs  of  Santa  Barbara, 
seven  m.iles  along  the  ocean  to  Goleta.  The  imposing  man- 
sion house,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,  is  occupied  by  the 
widow,  Mrs.  Delia  Hope. 


GOLETA  is  situated  seven  miles  from  Santa  Barbara,  in 
the  heart  of  the  rich  old  Spanish  grant  of  that  name,  about 
one  mile  from  the  ocean,  and  two  miles  from  the  foothills  of 
the  Santa  Ynez  mountains.  It  contains  Methodist  and  Bap- 
tist Church  organizations,  holding  regular  services,  a  Meth- 
odist church,  school-house,  store,  blacksmith  shop,  meat 
market,   and  shoe   shop,  and  is  the  business  center  of  a 


GOLETA. 


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flonrisliing  American  settlement  engaged  in  stock  raising, 
general  farming  and  fruit  cnltnre.  Opening  a  gate  on  the 
loft  hand,  a  few  rods  beyond  Goleta,  I  galloped  a  mile 
across  the  1200-acre  farm  of  Mr,  John  More,  to  More's 
Landing,  Jie  shipping  point  of  this  settlement.  Here  I 
found  a  substantial  wliarf  about  700  feet  long,  and  the  most 
extensive  exposure  of  asphaltum  I  have  ever  seen :  a  bluff  40 
or  50  feet  in  height,  extending  inland,  out  to  sea,  and  down- 
ward for  an  unknown  distance.  Whenever  I  have  sailed 
along  this  portion  of  the  coast  by  daylight,  I  have  seen  large 
quantities  of  crude  petroleum  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
ocean.  Scientists  and  meilical  men  have  expressed  the 
opinion  that  the  remarkable  exemption  of  Santa  Barbara 
and  Ventura  counties  from  the  ravages  of  epidemics  of  every 
kind,  is  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the  powerful  disinfecting 
influence  of  these  enormous  asphaltum  and  petroleum  de- 
posits. 

Mr.  John  More,  the  owner  of  this  ranch,  wharf  and  as- 
phaltum bod,  is  one  of  the  six  brothers,  Andrew,  Henry, 
Alexander,  Thomas,  Lawrence  and  John,  who  came  to  this 
coast  in  1849,  and  subsequently  became  possessed  of  vast 
grants  of  land,  including  the  Ranchos  Lorapoc,  42,085  iji, 
acres;  Mission  Vieja  de  la  Purissima,  4413  i«,  acres;  Santa 
Paula  Santicoy,  17,733  j^  acres,  and  the  Sespe,  containing 
about  25,000  acres,  and  immense  flocks  of  sheep  numbering 
at  times  over  60,000  head.  Mr.  Alexander  T.  Moore  now 
owns  the  whole  of  Santa  Rosa  Island,  comprising  62,690  ,{X 
acres,  and  one-third  of  the  island  of  Santa  Cruz,  containing 
52,760  ,w)  acres,  both  now  stocked  with  upwards  of  50,000 
head  of  sheep,  horses  and  cattle. 

Returning  to  the  main  road, 


The  Santa  Barbara  Nursery  of  Joseph  Sexton, 
the  most  extensive  in  the  county,  next  engaged  my 
attention.  Twelve  years  ago  Mr.  Sexton  rolled  down 
a  forest  growth  of  wild  mustard  ten  or  twelve  feet  in 
height,  and  so  large  that  the  fowls  of  the  air  could  have 
lodged  in  the  branches.  It  has  proved  an  excellent  situa- 
tion for  the  pui'pose  selected,  and  through  intelligent  selec- 


/ 


ffl 


86 


CALIFOHNfA. 


IIIJ! 


tion  and  culture,  been  a  cost  valuable  contributor  to  the 
stock  of  choice  fruit-bearing  trees  of  this  Southern  Coast. 
Some  ten  acres  are  filled  with  every  useful  and  ornamental 
tree,  plant,    shrub  and   flower  obtainable,  many  varieties 
growing  in  a  state  of  luxuriance  and  perfection  seldom  at- 
tained in  other  climates.     A  beautiful  Australian  oak,  ad- 
vertised to  grow  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet  in  its  native 
country,  is  already  about  thirty  feet  high,  and  still  growing. 
Twelve  hundred  pampas,  though  allowed  10x12  foot  spaces, 
are  crowding  for  more  room.     A  single  specimen   weighed 
800  pounds  when  delivered  at  the  railroad  in  Los  Angeles 
county.     Mr.  Sexton  has  received  as  high  as  $200  a  thousand 
for  the  plumes.     He  devotes  special  attention  to  the  apricot, 
at  present  the  most  valuable  fruit  tree  grown  in  the  county. 
About  sixty  thousand  very   thrifty  seedling  apricots  and 
peaches  will  be  budded  this  season.     Ho  has  just  completed 
an  elegant  $10,000  residence,  and  enlarged  his  place  by  the 
purchase  of  20  a  :es  adjoining.     Two  miles  beyond  and  one 
mile  off  the  road  to  the  right,  hidden  from  view  by  groves 
of  live  oak  and  surrounded  by  orchards  of  almonds,  wal- 
nuts, limes  and  lemons,  and  substantial  barns,  work  shops, 
store  houses,  etc.,  is  the  fine  country  seat  of  S.  P.  Stow,  Esq. 
His  ranch  comprises  1200  acres,  200  acres  of  which  are  cul- 
tivated with  fruit  and  nut  bearing  trees,  1000  acres  being 
devoted  to  general  farming  and  the  rasing  of  thoroughbred 
short-horns.  It  is  well  supplied  with  running  streams,  living 
springs,  live  oak  timber,  good  pasturage  and  rich  soils  for 
farming  and  fruit  growing.     A  little  over  a  mile  further  on 
the  main  road,  and  then  three  miles  toward  the  mountains, 
up  a  gently  sloping  carriage  road,  through  fields  of  wlieat, 
barley  and  corn,  groves  of  almonds  and  walnuts,   orchards 
of  apricots,  oranges,  lemons,  pears,  apples,  etc.  — past  a  mag- 
nificent building  site — now  crowned  with  a  beautiful  lawn 
and  flower  garden — a  small  village  of  farm  houses,  barns, 
granaries,  store  houses  and  work  shops,  tlirough  gates,  over 
bridges,  across  pasture  lands  and  tlirough  groves  of  live 
oak,  and  we  reach 


'smlmiXi 


OLEN  ANNE. 


87 


GLEN  ANNE,  the  homo  of  Col.  W.  W.  HoUistor.  The 
Colonel,  now  upwards  of  sixty  yenrn  of  ago,  is  a  tall,  well 
formed,  well  preserved  man,  erect  in  carriage,  with  a  very 
intelligent,  frank  and  pleasant  face,  and  a  most  generous 
heart.     Ho   is  not  only  distinguished  for  liis   remarkable 


1 


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^'      t 


00LO?ry.L  HOLLI8TER. 


m 


career  as  a  great  and  successful  wool-grower,  farmer,  horti  - 
calturist  and  financier,  and  proprietor  of  immense  landed 
estates,  but  also  for  his  bold  and  manly  independence  upon 
all  questions  of  public  interest,  for  his  brave  and  humane 
defense  of  Chinese  labor  and   rights  against  the  strong 


88 


CALIFORNIA. 


m 


m 


hostile  anti-Chinese  sentiment  of  the  people  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  for  his  friendly  helping  hand  toward  all,   without 
regard  to  i-ace,  rank  or  condition,  and  his  liberal  support  of 
every  movement  calculated  to  promote  the  public  good.  The 
Colonel  reached  this  coast  in  1852,  with  a  band  of  less  than 
900  sheep,  without  other  property,  and  burdened  with  debt. 
Through  the  constant  and  intelligent  care  of  his  rapidly  in- 
creasing flocks  and  the  judicious  investment  of  the  proceeds 
from  them,  his  possessions  increased  until  his  acres  and  his 
sheep  have  each  numbered  over  70,000  at  one  time.     The 
Colonel's  Glen  Anne  home  residence  occupies  a  pleasant, 
sheltered   nook  close  to   the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Ynez 
mountains,  near  a  small  stream   called  the  Tecolote  (the 
little  owl).     It  is  surrounded  with  fine   bearing  groves   of 
oranges,  almonds,  lemons  and  limes,  and  orchards  of  pears, 
apples,    apricots,  peaches,   plums,  persimmons  and  other 
fruits  in  great  variety.     The  Glen  Anne  farm  contains  3600 
acres,   over  2000  of  which   are  arable   lands,   excellentij' 
adapted  to  the  successful  growth  of  all  the  productions  of 
northern  latitudes  and  those  of  the  southern  in  great  vari- 
ety.    Three  hundred  and  fifty  acres  are  devoted  to   fruit 
culture,  comprising  over  40,000  fruit  and  nut-bearing  trees. 
The  almond   orchard  is  the  largest  in  the  United   States, 
containing  250  acres  and  over  twenty -five  thousand  ti*ees. 
Their  culture  is  perfect,  and  many  of  the  trees  are  the  finest 
I  havo  ever  seen.     Fifteen  acres  are  covered  witii  1500  olive 
trees,   one  of  which   bore  a  barrel  of  fruit  last    season. 
A    beautiful    orange    grove    of   thirteen    acres    and    120 
thrifty  trees,  enclosed  hy  Monterey  cypress,   and  the  lofty 
eucalyptus    occupies  a  choice    spot  of    warm,    rich,    fine 
loam  close  by  the  Glen  Anne  home .  Here  I  found  Mr.  Geo. 
W.  Coffin,  the  Colonel's  private  secretary,   a  very  intelli- 
gent and  courteous  gentleman.     I  have   nowliero  seen  so 
great  a  growth   in  seven  years    from    the    seed,    and   all 
without  irrigation  except  for  the  first  year  or  two.     Its  irri- 
gating hydrants,  part  of  a  system  of  water  works  constructed 
at  a  cost  of  $10,000  and  supplying  the  whole  ranch,  are  here 
unused;    yet  the  growth   has   been  so   superpLundant   as 
to  suggest  to  Mr.  Coffin  an  excess  of  moistiire  at  the  roots, 


EL  WOOD. 


89 


and  a  remedy  by  underdrainage.  The  first  ditch  had  just 
been  opened  for  this  purpose,  and  full  half  an  inch  of  water 
flowing  through  it  confirms  his  good  judgment.  He  also 
prunes  the  inljerior  of  the  trees  vigorously,  letting  in  the  air 
and  sunshine  with  excellent  results.  Many  of  the  trees  are 
now  overburdened  with  fruit,  massed  in  great  golden  clus- 
ters of  over  forty  oranges  on  a  single  branch  within  a  three- 
foot  circle.  I  tasted  the  fruit  from  a  dozen  different  trees, 
and  found  it  equal  to  the  average  Los  Angeles  orange. 
Lemons  also  do  exceedingly  well  in  this  highly  favored 
location.  A  one-acre  grove  adjoining  produced  sixty  thous- 
and lemons  in  a  single  year.  I  am  inclined  to  Colonel 
HoUister's  opinion,  that  this  whole  coast  region,  from 
Point  Concepcion  southward,  is  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  citrus  fruits .  Next  I  was  shown  several  thrifty 
specimens  of  the  tender  Japanese  persimmon,  beginning 
to  bear  excellent  fruit,  though  only  four  years  old.  Choice 
varieties  of  pears,  apples  and  plums  were  so  thickly  set  with 
fruit  as  to  require  thinning  out  to  protect  them  from  injury. 
In  addition  to  those  enumerated  there  are  5000  walnut 
trees,  500  lime  trees,  400  apple  trees,  200  apricot  trees,  200 
cherry  trees,  50  dote  palms  and  a  vineyard  containing  5000 
grape  vines.  Some  2300  acres  are  devoted  to  general  farm- 
ing, grazing  and  dairying.  From  thirty  to  forty  hands  are  era- 
ployed  in  the  various  departments  of  the  farm.  The  whole 
place  is  a  model  of  thorough  culture  and  excellent  management 
under  the  immediate  superintendence  of  the  Colonel's  brother- 
in-law.  Col.  W.  B.  James.  I  take  leave  of  Glen  Anne  by 
riding  for  the  second  time  upon  the  beautiful  mound  chosen 
by  the  Colonel  as  the  site  of  his  mansion  house.  It  affords 
a  most  charming  view  of  the  valley  of  Patera,  of  the  ocean, 
the  foothills  and  the  mountains. 


11 


"ELWOOD,"  the  country  seat  of  Hon.  Elwood  Cooper, 
adjoins  Glen  Anne  on  the  west.  Mr.  Cooper,  formerly  a 
New  York  merchant,  occupies  a  prominent  position  on  the 
Pacific  coast  as  a  leading  spirit  in  its  most  beneficient  en- 
terprises —  educational,  agricultural  and  horticultural. 
Whatever  Mr.  Cooper  undertakes  is  done   so   thoroughly 


1, 


m^ssmi 


90 


CALIFORNIA. 


that  the  results  of  his  experiments  are  regarded  as  estab- 
lished precedents.  In  forest  and  olive  culture  especially, 
their  importance  to  Southern  California  can  scarcely  be 
overestimated. 

In  1876  he  published  a  valuable  work  upon  "Forest 
Culture  and  Eucalyptus  Trees.''  Fully  appreciating  the 
importance  of  forest  culture,  especially  in  dry  climates  com- 


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paratively  destitute  of  timber,  he  has  set  out  on  his  2000- 
acre  farm  150,000  eucalyptus  trees,  comprising  24  varieties, 
now  from  two  to  seven  years  old,  and  from  15  to  80  feet  in 
height,  the  largest  still  growing  luxuriantly.  A  dense 
growth  of  fine  specimens  affords  a  grateful  shade  along  the 
public  road  across  the  entire  estate. 


I'M 


DOS   PUEBLOS. 


91 


The  Elwoo(J  residence,  plain  and  comfortable  looking 
witboat,  and  elegantly  furnished  within,  is  hidden  from 
view,  until  close  at  hand,  in  a  pleasant  little  wooded  glen 
on  the  Armitas.  Commodious  barns,  work-shops,  store- 
houses, etc.,  are  situated  close  by. 

I  found  Mr.  Cooper  busily  engaged  in  packing  olive  oil. 
Cooper's  olive  oil  is  absolutely  pure,  and  commands  forty 
cents  a  bottle  more  than  any  other  in  the  American  market. 
His  perfect  success  in  the  home  extraction  of  such  an  excel- 
lent and  valuable  product  will  greatly  stimulate  the  culture 
of  the  olive  along  the  Southern  coast.  His  orchard  con- 
tains 6000  olive  trees,  the  latter  bearing  finely.  12,500  almond 
trees,  3500  English  walnuts,  1500  domestic  fruits,  and  about 
1500  vines,  covering  altogether  300  acres.  The  whole  is  un- 
der most  thorough  cultivation,  and  looks  very  promising. 
Five  hundred  acres  are  devoted  to  general  farming.  The  soil 
is  a  deep,  rich  loam,  producing  excellent  crops  without  irri- 
gation. Twelve  hundred  acres  are  used  for  grazing  pur- 
poses. About  twenty-five  hands  are  employed  in  the  various 
departments  of  the  ranch. 

Elwood  is  admirably  situated  on  a  gradually  rising  slope 
extending  from  the  ocean  to  the  foot-hills  of  the  Santa 
Ynez,  only  four  miles  from  More's  Landing,  and  an  hour's 
drive  from  Santa  Barbara. 

After  leaving  Elwood  the  coast  road  runs  near  the  ocean, 
and  the  ocean  soon  washes  the  feet  of  the  mountains.  The 
land  is  more  elevated  and  rolling,  but  still  well  adapted  to 
agriculture. 

The  Armitas,  Tecolote  and  Canada  Aguila,  small,  clear 
mountain  streams,  all  flowing  to  the  sea,  are  crossed  before 
reaching  the  Dos  Pueblos.  Col.  Hollister's  Winchester 
place  of  1100  acres,  on  the  right,  and  Bell's  500-acre  farm, 
on  the  left,  are  tlie  most  important  improved  places. 


DOS  PUEBLOS  is  situated  on  the  Spanish  grant  by 
that  name,  on  the  Dos  Pueblos  Creek,  close  to  the  sea- 
side, 18  miles  from  Santa  Barbara,  and  20  miles  from  Ga- 
viota. 

The  Dos  Pueblos  Bancho  extends  about  ten  miles  along 


',1 


ii.'..ii..Jiijmujli3«aiW 


ill 


i]i 


92 


CALIFOHNTA. 


the  coast  and  three  miles  back  into  the  mountains.  About 
9600  acres  of  the  15,000  comprising  the  grant  are  still  owned 
by  the  heirs  of  Nicholas  Den,  the  original  grantor;  3,000 
acres  are  devoted  to  farming,  principally  to  raising  cereals, 
and  the  remaining  portion  to  grazing.  It  contains  the  oldest 
American  orchard  in  the  county,  comprising  12  acres,  and 
some  800  trees  of  diflFerent  varieties,  many  of  the  trees 
being  exceptionally  large,  fine  and  fruitful. 

Next  on  the  right,  on  the  Canada  De  Las  Varas,  the 
Doty  Banch,  of  400  acres,  including  a  fine  vineyard,  de- 
serves mention. 

Canada  Del  Corral. — The  two-league  grant  of  Canada 

Del  Corral  extends  from  the  Dos  Pueblos  to  the  Nuestro 

Senora  Del  Kefugio,  and  is  owned  in  equal  parts — the  EI 

.  Capitan  being  the  dividing  boundary — by  A.  W.  Buel  and 

Bruno  Orella. 

Crossing  the  Canada  Del  Gato  and  the  Canada  De  Las 
Llagas,  I  met  35  fine  fat  cows,  belonging  to  Mr.'  Buel.  This 
has  heretofore  been  an  excellent  dairy  ranch,  but  a  rank 
growth  of  mustard  is  now  encroaching  so  rapidly  upon  the 
best  grazing  portion,  that  it  will  be  stocked  with  sheep 
for  the  purpose  of  feeding  it  down  and  out. 

El  Capitan,  a  fine,  clear  mountain  stream,  flows  to 
the  sea  about  one  mile  beyond  the  Buel  Ranch.  Handsome 
live  oaks  border  both  baiiks  all  the  way  to  the  ocean.  It 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  Santa  Barbara  camping  parties,  and 
its  cosy,  cool  retreats  are  seldom  long  unoccupied  during 
the  summer  months.  Bruno  Orella  was  not  at  home,  and 
his  young  son,  suspecting  that  I  was  a  tax  assessor  in  dis- 
guise, declined  to  be  interviewed. 

A  little  further  on,  over  the  Refugio  Creek  and  Caiiada 
Tdjiguas,  and  we  enter 

The  Rancho  Ndestba  Senora  Del  Refugio,  containing 
26,529  acres,  8,000  of  which  are  owned  by  the  Dibblee 
Brothers  and  Col.  Hollister.  It  extends  along  the  coast  for 
20  miles,  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Punta  De  La  Con- 
cepcion.     Pedro  Baron,  a  Frenchman,  owns  1900  acres  of 


I! 


vmm^ 


LAS  CliUUES  HOT  HULPUUR  SPRINGS.  98 

the  Befugio,  situated  on  Arroyo  Quonada,  nine  miles  from 
Gaviota.  Some  twenty  acres  only  are  farmed,  it  beiug 
chiefly  grazing  land,  now  supporting  about  1200  sheep,  80 
cattle  and  a  few  horses.  At  Arroyo  Honda,  Pedro  Ortego 
owns  5C0  acres,  where  he  has  lived  for  twenty-five  years. 
Unlike  most  of  his  countrymen,  he  set  out  a  variety  of  fruit 
trees  fifteen  years  ago,  and  800  grape  vines  ten  years  later, 
which  now  yield  abundantly.  The  mountains  crowd  closer 
and  closer  to  the  sea,  until,  like  the  children  who  followed 
the  "Piper  of  Hamelin,"  you  wonder  how  j'ou  Avill  get  into 
end  through  them;  but  when,  after  crossing  the  Posta  and 
Molinos  Creeks  and  Canada  San  Onofre  and  Cimentero,  you 
you  turn  abruptly  away  from  the  o ,ean  and  enter 

Gaviota  Pass,  the  way  seems  plain  enough,  and  is 
neither  very  steep  nor  diflScult.  Gaviota  Pass  and  Landing 
is  about  38  miles  from  Santa  Barbara,  on  the  Bancho  Nu- 
estra  Senora  del  Befugio.  A  substantial  wharf  extends 
1000  feet  into  25  feet  of  water,  and  is  the  shipping  point  of 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  Santa  Ynez,  Santa  Bita  and 
Los  Alamos  valleys.  San  Francisco  steamers  stop  here 
every  Thursday  for  passengers  and  freight. 

Three  and  one-half  miles  through  the  coast  range,  cross- 
ing and  re-crossing  the  Gaviota,  worn  down  by  the  wash  of 
ages  hundreds  of  feet  into  the  solid  limestone  rock,  a  gen- 
uine pass,  wild  and  tortuous,  narrow  and  high-walled,  and 
we  reach 

Las  Cruces,  about  42  miles  from  Santa  Barbara.  It  con- 
tains a  post-ofiice,  school  house,  sjtore,  blacksmith  shop, 
four  families  of  Spanish  speaking  people,  and  one  Amer- 
ican. A  radius  of  six  miles  from  Las  Cruces  embraces  a 
rare  combination  of  attractions  for  the  health-seeker,  tourist, 
and  sportsman.     The 


1 ; 


LAS  CBUCES  HOT  SULPHUB  SPBINGS  are  situ- 
ated about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  southeast, 
in  a  very  pleasant  sheltered  situation,  under  the  shade  of 
large  live  oaks  and  sycamores,  with  good  camping  grounds 
near  by.    The  principal  spring  is  one  of  the  largest  I  have 


iiiUl 


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II 


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■m  111 


94 


CALIFORNIA. 


seen,  flowing  a  volume  of  about  ten  inches,  and  having  a 
temperature  of  90°.  It  is  walled  up  about  nine  feet  in 
diameter,  and  provided  with  a  seat  and  towel  rack  for  bath- 
ers. A  fine  spring  of  good  cold  water  flows  out  close  along- 
side. Two  families  from  Lompoc  were  camping  there  for 
the  benefit  of  its  waters. 

Five  miles  to  the  northeast,  over  rolling  hills  and  across 
a  pleasant  little  valley,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  the 
store  and  inn  of  Jose  Buelna,  on  the  Cafiada  Najoqui,  at  an 
elevation  of  1000  feet  above  the  sea,  are  situated  the  beau- 
tiful 

FALLS  OF  NAJOQUI.  They  remind  me  of  the  charm- 
ing falls  of  Minne-ha-ha,  made  famous  by  the  song  of  Long- 
fellow. Only  a  little  stream,  bat  bravely  leaping  over  a 
hundred  feet,  down  a  rocky  precipice,  through  the  over- 
hanging foliage,  dashing  itself  half  away  in  crystal  spray, 
eddying  a  moment  in  tbe  deep-worn  basin  below,  and  then 
flowing  laughingly  on  to  the  sea.  I  reached  it  on  a  warm 
day,  after  a  fatiguing  ride,  and  could  not  resist  the  tempta- 
tion of  the  most  luxurious  shower  bath  I  ever  enjoyed. 
With  its  hot  springs,  good  bathing  beach  at  Gaviota,  the 
beautiful  falls  of  Najoqui,  picturesque  scenery,  and  excellent 
hunting  and  fishing.  Las  Cruces  deserves  the  attention  of 
health  and  pleasure  seekers.  It  is  eighteen  miles  from  Las 
Cruces  to  Lompoc,  through  the  San  Julian.  For  about  five 
miles  the  road  gradually  ascends  the  Canada  Las  Cruces, 
crossing  the  summit  of  the  mountain  at  an  elevation  of  900 
feet.  Thick  groves  of  live  oak  cover  the  highest  hills,  the 
gentle  slopes  and  level  bottom  lands  affording  excellent 
pasturage.     We  are  now  on  the  Bancho 

San  Julian,  a  magnificent  estate  of  48,000  acres,  all 
owned  by  Thomas  B.  and  Albert  Dibblee.  It  is  well 
watered  by  the  Cafiadas  De  Los  Alamos,  Gaviota,  the 
Arroyos  De  Los  Amoles,  De  La  Jara,  De  Salsipuedes, 
La  Espada,  and  other  small  streams.  This  and  the 
adjoining  ranches  are  probably  unsurpassed  on  the  Pa- 
cific   coast  in    their    adaptation    for    dairying    purposes. 


Tim  TEMPEHANCE  COLONY  OF  LOMl'OC. 


96 


Although  almost  exclusively  devoted  to  grazing  up  to  the 
present  time,  it  comprises  a  considerable  area  of  arable  lands 
of  the  best  quality.  Over  55,000  sheep  and  300  cattle  are 
now  feeding  upon  its  rich  native  grasses,  all  in  excellent 
condition  so  far  as  seen.  For  fifteen  miles  the  road  de- 
scends an  easy  grade,  along  the  La  Jara  and  the  Salsi- 
puedes,  before  leaving  this  great  ranch.  Night  overtook 
me  five  miles  from  Lompoo,  riding  a  horse  so  weary  and 
footsore  that  I  turned  it  into  a  volunteer  barley  field,  aban- 
doned to  the  stock,  wrapped  my  blankets  around  me,  and 
lay  down  until  morning.      At  au  early  hour  I  rode  into  the 

TEMPERA.NCE    COLONY    OF    LOMPOC.     It   was 

established  in  1874,  upon  lands  of  the  Lompoc  and  Mission 
Vieja  de  la  Purissima,  containing  over  40,000  acres.  The 
Lompoc  Valley  proper  comprises  about  12,000  acres  of  the 
richest  portion  of  the  lower  valley  of  the  Santa  Ynez.  The 
soil  is  rich,  fine,  alluvial  loam,  producing  bountiful  crops  of 
wheat,  barley,  beans  and  corn,  and  nearly  all  the  produc- 
tions raised  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  climate  is  bracing 
and  healthy,  free  from  all  malaria,  but  considerably  harsher 
than  south  of  Point  Concepcion.  Its  most  disagreeable 
feature  is  the  northwest  ocean  winds  wLich  sweep  down  the 
valley  quite  constantly,  and  with  considerable  force,  from 
March  until  midsummer.  During  the  fall  and  winter  months 
the  weather  is  most  agreeable.  It  is  well  watered  by  the 
Santa  Ynez  River  and  other  smaller  streams  flowing  through 
it,  and  affords  good  well-water  at  a  depth  of  40  feet,  and 
artesian  supplies  within  200  feet.  The  colony  contains 
over  1400  people,  some  300  occupying  the  town,  who  are 
generally  in  a  prosperous  condition.  Among  the  things 
which  pleased  me  most  was  a  fine,  commodious  school 
building,  a  good  church,  well  filled  on  the  Sabbath,  and  the 
ruins  of  the  only  liquor  saloon  the  town  has  ever  had.  Or- 
ganized as  a  temperance  colony,  its  lands  sold  with  covenants 
prohibiting  the  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  within  its  boun- 
dai'ies  settled;  mainly  by  temperance  people,  they  have 
shown  a  determination  to  live  a  temperance  colony  by  blow- 
ing up  from  its  foundation  a  building  where,  after  due  pro- 
test, liquor  was  being  sold — and  long  may  they  prosper. 


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96 


CALimRNIA. 


The  most  interesting  object  to  tourists  are  the  ruins  of 
the  old  adobe  Lompoc  Mission,  shaken  down  by  an  earth- 
quake nearly  a  century  ago.  Its  extensive  buildings,  en- 
closures, reservoirs,  and  irrigating  works  indicate  its  occu- 
pation by  a  larger  population  than  Lompoc  now  contains. 
But  the  civilization  of  New  Lorapoc  is  a  thousand  years  in 
advance  of  theirs. 

Point  Parissima,  thirteen  miles,  Lompoc  Wharf,  twelve 
miles,  and  the  new  wharf  at  Point  Arguillo,  eleven  miles 
distant,  are  the  shipping  ports  of  this  region.  There  are 
Hot  Sulphur  Springs  on  the  Espada  Banch,  three  miles 
from  Point  Arguillo.  The  ruins  of  the  old  Purissima 
Mission,  established  in  1812,  are  exceedingly  interesting, 
and  I  regret  my  lack  of  space  to  notice  them  more  fully. 
Huge  piles  of  concrete,  tile-roofed  adobes,  three  hundred 
feet  in  length,  with  walls  four  or  five  feet  thick,  are  aban- 
doned to  the  owls  and  bats,  and  are  crumbling  back  to  the 
earth  again.  Reservoirs,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
are  still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  A  sixty-year  old 
pear  orchard  bears  abundantly,  but  the  fruit  is  of  poor 
quality.     The 

La  Purissima,  Rancho,  as  recently  confirmed  by  the  Com- 
missioner of  the  General  Land  office,  embraces  an  area  of 
upwards  of  35,000  acres,  chiefly  grazing  land,  though  con- 
taining extensive  tracts  well  adapted  to  agriculture  and  fruit 
growing.  It  is  watered  by  the  Santa  Ynez  River,  the  Canada 
De  Los  Berros,  and  numerous  springs.  This  ranch  and  the 
Santa  Rita,  containing  12,000  acres,  are  owned  by  Christy  & 
Wise,  of  San  Francisco,  D.  W.  and  A.  P.  Jones,  Jesse  Hill, 
Craig,  Blackburn,  and  others.  It  will  soon  be  subdivided 
and  sold  in  tracts  to  suit  purchasers,  at  prices  ranging  from 
$2.50  to  $40  per  acre.  The  soil  is  a  warm,  sandy,  fertile 
loam,  the  water  good  and  easily  obtained,  and  fuel  abundant. 
The  climate  is  healthy,  free  from  malaria,  and  comparatively 
protected  from  the  cold  ocean  winds.    At 

Santa  Rosa,  I  was  very  cordially  greeted  by  the  Major 
Domo,  John  Wilson,  a  warm-hearted  pioneer  of  1850,  from 
Vermont,  and  twelve  years  manager  of  the  Santa  Rosa.     It 


LOH    ALAMOS. 


97 


is  a  magnifiueut  estate  of  over  16,U00  acres,  well  watered  by 
the  Santa  Ynez  Biver,  and  other  streams  and  numerous 
springs.  Seventeen  thousand  sheep  and  100  head  of  cattle 
and  horses  are  now  grazing  upon  it,  and  there  is  feed  for 
several  thousand  more.  Upwards  of  5,000  acres  of  valley 
and  foot-hill  lands  are  arable.  Twentv  acres  of  wheat 
yielded  55  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  it  is  estimated  that  ten 
bushels  per  acre  was  lost  in  threshing.  About  one  huudre  ' 
acres  are  farmed,  chiefly  for  hay,  a  capacious  barn  now  en- 
closing a  reserve  of  one  hundred  tons.  The  wool  clip  of 
last  year  amounted  to  120,000  pounds  worth  22 J  cents  per 
pound.  Thirty-five  men  are  employed  in  shearing  time  in 
April  and  September,  and  twelve  during  the  remainder  of 
the  year.  The  shepherds  live  with  their  sheep,  the  Major 
Domo  packing  them  provisions  every  week  on  horseback. 
The  storehouse  contains  upwards  of  two  thousand  dollars 
worth  of  flour,  groceries,  boots,  shoes,  clothing,  and  other 
necessary  ranch  supplies.  The  ranch  house  is  a  capacious, 
tile-roofed  adobe,  occupying  a  commanding  situation,  sup- 
plied with  good  water,  forced  through  pipes,  from  a  spring 
below.  A  four-acre  seven  year  old  orchard  of  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  quinces,  etc.,  occupies  a  warm,  sheltered 
spot  near  by.  It  bore  eight  tons  of  fruit  last  summer,  and 
many  of  the  trees  are  now  supported  with  poles,  to  prevent 
their  breaking  from  the  excessive  fruitage. 

J.  W.  Cooper,  the  owner  of  Santa  Rosa,  is  a  warm- 
hearted, estimable  man,  who  has  acquired  it  by  his  own  pa- 
tient, untiring  industry,  since  his  arrival  on  this  coast  in 
1850.  He  resides  most  of  the  time  in  his  elegant  city  resi- 
dence at  Santa  Barbara.  I  met  here  his  father-in-law,  Hon. 
Albert  HoUister,  brother  of  the  Colonel,  a  Missouri  pioneer, 
a  staunch  Union  man  among  rebels,  full  of  interesting  anec- 
dotes and  experiences  of  early  and  of  rebellious  times.  A 
good  horse  trail  about  nine  miles  long  leads  over  the  moun- 
tains from  Santa  Bosa  to 


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LOS  ALAMOS,  the  present  terminus  of  the  San  Luis 
Obispo  and  Santa  Maria  Railroad,  which  connects  at  Port 
Harford  with  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship 
Company. 


98 


CALIFORNIA. 


Santa  Bosa  is  a  very  pleasant  valley  to  look  back  upon 
from  the  summit,  but  Los  Alamos  loses  nothing  by  compar- 
ison with  it.  Bapidly  descending  the  north  slope  of  the 
mountain,  I  was  most  agreeably  surprised  at  the  character 
and  beauty  of  the  landscape  which  greeted  me. 

The  valley  proper  is  about  twenty  miles  long,  with  an 
average  width  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  an  elevation,  at  Dr. 
Shaw's,  near  Los  Alamos,  of  480  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
valley  surface  is  level,  with  gently  rising  foot-hills, 
on  the  east  and  west.  Handsome  groves  and  parks  of 
live  oak  cover  the  upper  portion.  The  soil  is  rich,  deep 
and  moist:  good  water  being  obtained  at  a  depth  of  from 
eight  to  fifteen  feet. 

The  San  Antonio  Biver,  Arroyo  de  Los  Alamos  and  Ca- 
nadas  Santa  Bosa,  Camusa,  Los  Alamos,  Santa  Ynez  de  Las 
Flores  and  other  living  streams  flow  through  it. 

Careaga  and  Harris  own  17,000  acres  of  the  Los  Alamos 
Baucho,  John  S.  Bell  13,000,  Dr.  J.  Shaw  4400,  and  Gasper 
Orena  4000  acres. 

Mr.  Bell's  residence  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  hand- 
some mound,  in  a'fine  live  oak  park,  within  sight  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  overlooking  a  considerable  portion  of  the  valley. 
Mr.  Bell  is  also  the  owner  of  10,000  acres  of  the  Laguna  de 
San  Francisco. 

The  country  home  of  Dr.  J.  B.  Shaw  is  situated  near  the 
foot-hills,  about  one  mile  east  of  Los  Alamos.  His  ranch 
comprises  8000  acres  of  the  Laguna  de  San  Francisco  and 
4400  acres  of  the  Los  Alamos.  It  is  well  watered  and 
wooded,  and  contains  several  thousand  acres  of  excellent 
arable  lands. 

Los  Alamos  is  17  miles  from  Lompoc,  27  from  Gaviota, 
15  from  La  Graciosa,  14  from  Ballard's  Station  and  64  from 
Santa  Barbara. 

En  route  for  La  Graciosa,  I  soon  reached  the  residence 
of  Juan  Carenga,  owner  of  17,000  acres  of  the  Los  Alamos. 
He  farms  4000  acres,  and  keeps  8000  sheep  and  60  dairy 
cows. 

Turning  into  the  foot-hills,  a  little  beyond  the  Los  Ala- 
mos school-house,  two  hours'  ride  over  a  sandy  road,  and 


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TIJE  SANTA    MAIHA    VALLEY. 


99 


thence  across  the  Todos  y  San  Antonio  Bancho,  of  20,772 
acres,  owned  by  H.  M.  Newhall,  Mrs.  Hartwell  and  others, 
brought  me  to 

LA  GR  AGIOS  A,  seventy-five  miles  from  Santa  Barbara, 
Among  the  sand-liills  between  La  Graciosa  and  Gaadalupu, 
I  was  overtaken  by  L.  Markam,  the  pioneer  farmer  of  the 
Guadalupe  Valley,  now  of  Los  Alamos.  His  wheat  averaged 
3100  pounds  per  acre  last  season,  and  will  exceed  2300 
pounds  the  present.  Hares  or  jack  rabbits  have  entirely 
destroyed  one  twenty-acre  field  of  wheat.  They  were  so 
numerous  and  destructive  in  an  adjoining  settlement  that 
for  some  time  the  settlers  rallied  every  Saturday  and  killed 
them  by  the  hundreds,  in  order  to  save  their  crops.  Ap- 
proaching Guadalupe  through  the  lower  valley  of  the  Santa 
Maria,  I  could  survey  from  a  single  point  ten  miles  square 
of  unbroken  grain  fields,  extending  almost  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  white,  golden-strawed,  and  full-headed,  bowing 
for  the  harvester.  A  strong  northwester  swept  up  the  valley 
from  the  ocean  so  cool,  that  an  overcoat  was  found  very 
comfortable. 


'f 


THE  SANTA  MABIA  VALLEY  is  about  thirty  miles 
long  and  ten  miles  broad  near  the  ocean,  with  an  average 
width  of  three  miles.  It  comprises  the  best  portions  of  the 
Guadalupe,  Punta  de  Laguna,  Suey,  Tepesque,  and  Todos 
Santos  Banchos,  about  60,000  acres  of  arable  lands.  The 
soil  is  a  deep  Giandy  loam,  especially  adapted  to  the  growth 
of  cereals,  but  producing  also  good  crops  of  corn,  beans, 
potatoes,  flax,  mustard  and  the  various  other  productions  of 
Southern  California,  except  semi-tropic  fruits.  A  range  of 
high  rolling  hills,  known  as  the  Azufre,  extending  from 
near  the  ocean  upwards  of  twenty  miles,  with  an  average 
width  of  six  miles,  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  separates  it 
from  Lompoc  and  the  valloy  of  the  Santa  Ynez.  The  Guad- 
alupe rancho,  containing  43,681  ,«,  acres,  owned  by  Leroy 
and  others,  embraces  a  considerable  portion  of  these  lands. 
Well  watered,  free  from  noxious  weeds  and  plants,  its  excel- 
lent pasturage  affords  one  of  the  best  dairy  ranges  in  Cali- 


^ 


100 


CALIFORNIA. 


fornia.  It  in  occupied  chiefly  by  Swiss  duirynieu,  who  milk 
daily  about  1000  cows,  making  2000  pouuds  of  butter,  which 
ranks  with  the  best  produced  in  Marin  county. 

GUADALUPE,  the  principal  town  of  the  Hantu  Maria 
Valley,  is  situated  on  the  Guadalupe  Bancho,  ueur  tbe  Santa 
Maria  Biver,  about  seven  miles  from  the  ocean  and  i)5  miles 
from  Santa  Barbara.  It  is  somewhat  sheltered  by  the  high 
lands  bordering  the  Santa  Maria  Biver,  in  San  Luis  Obispo 
county,  from  the  force  of  the  strong  cool  winds  which  prevail 
along  the  upper  coast,  especially  from  midday  until  sundown. 
The  climate  is  cool,  bracing  and  heal'  y.  W.  W.  Ayres, 
druggist,  and  a  resident  of  six  years,  s  it  is  too  salubrious 
for  the  good  of  his  business. 

Point  Sal  and  Chute  Landing,  about  eight  miles  distant, 
are  the  shipping  points  for  all  this  section  of  country.  The 
caves,  arches  and  grottos  formed  by  the  abrasion  of  the 
ocean  waves  in  the  limestone  formation  at  Muscle  Bock,  on 
the  sea-shore,  between  six  and  seven  miles  from  Guadalupe, 
are  a  favorite  resort  of  local  excursionists,  uud  will  be  of 
much  interest  to  tourists. 


! 


CENTBAL  CITY  is  situated  ten  miles  from  Guadalupe, 
and  ten  miles  from  the  Santa  Maria  Biver,  sixteen  miles 
from  Point  Sal  and  the  Chute  Landing,  nineteen  miles  from 
Los  Alamos,  twenty-nine  miles  from  San  Luis  Obispo,  and 
eighty-four  miles  from  Santa  Barbara.  It  commands  the 
trade  of  a  large  scope  of  rich  country,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
promising  places  in  the  county. 

A  large  tract  of  Government  land  lies  between  the 
Bancho  Puuta  de  Laguuu,  Los  Alamos  and  the  Santa  Maria 
and  SisquoQ  rivers,  occupied  in  the  upper  portion  chiefly 
by  Spaniards  and  Chilians,  and  in  the  lower  portion  hy 
Americans. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Sisquoc  Biver,  I  turned 
away  from  the  valley  toward  the  Tinaquaic,  past  the 
Catholic  Church,  and  the  monument  of  its  original  owner, 
Julian  Foxen,  a  Santa  Barbara  pioneer  of  1828,  to  the 
pleasant  home  of  his  son-in-law,  Mr.  Frederick  Wickenden. 


VALLEY  OF   THE   SANTA    VNEZ. 


101 


The  Tinaquaio,  containing  8874  acre^  is  still  owned  nnd 
occupied  by  the  Foxen  heirs.  Mr.  Wickendeu  having 
added  to  their  portion  by  purchasing  6000  acres  of  the 
La  Laguna. 

The  Tinaquaic  adjoins  the  eleven  league  Bancho  Sis- 
quoc,  owned  by  Mrs.  Stone.  The  rent  of  this  now  highly 
improved  and  very  valuable  estate  was  at  one  tinie  offered 
to  Mr.  Wickenden  for  $38. 

Passing  rapidly  through  the  upper  portion  of  the  Los 
Alamos,  I  crossed  the  mountain  to 

The  Rancho  San  Cauloh  de  Jonata,  by  a  good  horse- 
back trail  along  the  Canada  Santa  Ynez.  The  summit,  1368 
feet  above  the  sea,  affords  a  veiy  fine  view  of  the  upper 
Santa  Ynez  Valley.  The  Jonata,  comprising  26,634  acres, 
about  10,000  of  which  are  arable,  with  a  fine,  rich,  sandy 
loam,  is  owned  by  R.  T.  Buell,  the  enthusiastic  greenbacker. 
It  is  well  watered  by  the  Santa  Ynez  River,  which  flows 
through  it  for  more  than  six  miles,  Canada  de  La  Laguna, 
Canada  Botella  and  Zaca  creeks,  and  numerous  springs.  Its 
shipping  point  is   Gaviota,  thirteen  miles  distant. 

The  Rancho  Najoqui  adjoins  De  Jonata  on  the  south, 
the  Santa  Ynez  River  flowing  between  them.  It  contains 
11,262  acres  of  excellent  faiming  and  grazing  lands,  and  is 
the  home  of  Dr.  De  la  Cuesta — a  pioneer  of  1848,  from 
Spain — a  resident  owner  of  about  6000  acres.  It  is  well 
watered  by  the  Santa  Ynez  River,  Alisal  and  Canada  Najoqui, 
upon  which  are  situated  the  beautiful  falls  of  that  name, 
only  four  miles  distant.  It  contains  about  1200  acres  of 
arable  land,  800  of  which  are  now  farmed;  wheat,  barley 
and  flax  being  the  principal  crops.  Najoqui  is  about  eleven 
miles  from  Gaviota,  twelve  miles  from  Los  Alamos,  and 
forty-six  miles  from  Santa  Barbara.  Proceeding  from  thence 
past  the  store  of  Leon  Carteri,  through  the  upper 


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VALLEY  OF  THE  SANTA  YNEZ,  I  was  most  agree- 
ably surprised  at  its  extent,  richness  and  beauty.  It  em- 
braces portions  of  the  great  ranchos,  Canada  De  Los  Pinos 
or  College  Grant,  and  Lomes  de  Purificacion ;  the  Tequepis, 


102 


CALIFORNIA. 


and  the  Sau  Marcos.  Stopping  a  while  to  examine  the  very 
interesting  rains  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Mission,  established  in 
1804,  I  reached  the  Bancho  Purificacion,  just  as  Thos.  W. 
More,  son  of  its  late  owner,  Capt.  T.  W.  More,  was  leaving 
for  their  fine  city  residence  in  the  suburbs  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara. It  contains  13,541  acres,  chiefly  grazing  lands,  lying 
between  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains  and  river,  the  latter 
separating  it  from  the  College  Grant,  flowing  between  them 
for  eight  or  nine  miles.  An  orchard,  forty  years  old,  is  still 
beariug  good  apples,  pears,  cherries,  etc.  Capt.  More,  for 
many  years  before  his  death,  was  intrusted  by  the  Catholic 
Church,  with  the  charge  of  the 

College  Gkant,  which  he  grazed,  in  common  with  his 
own.  It  contains  35,499  acres,  over  15,000  of  which  are  rich 
iii'able  lands,  specially  adapteii  to  wheat.  Besides  the  Santa 
Ynez  River,  the  Santa  Agatu,  and  Canada  De  Los  Pinos, 
both  living  streams,  flow  through  it.  The  elevation  is  about 
596  feet  above  the  sea.  Good  well-water  is  obtained  at  a 
depth  of  from  twenty  to  eighty  feet.  Passing  through  this 
settlement  toward  Ballard's  Station,  J  met  Bro.  Walter,  of 
the  College  of  our  Lady  of  Guadt^ape,  conducted  by  the 
Brothers  of  the  Christian  Scliools,  Father  Lynch  in  charge. 
His  thirty  pupils  were  bathing  in  the  cool  waters  of  the 
Canada  De  Los  Pinos,  which  flows  through  the  College 
grounds.  This  school  i  s  sustained  by  a  tuition  fee  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  year,  and  the  College  grant 
fund.  It  is  a  healthy  and  delightful  situation  for  a  school 
of  learning. 


BALLARD'S  STATION  is  very  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  bar  ks  of  the  Alamo  Pintado,  on  the  borders  of  a  live 
oak  park  of  great  beauty,  in  the  western  portion  of  the  val- 
ley, about  three  miles  from  its  principal  settlement.  For- 
merly a  station  on  the  Coast  Stage  Line  via  San  Marcos 
Pass,  it  is  still  a  favoxite  and  most  agreeable  resting  place, 
for  travelers  and  tourists.  It  is  now  the  home  of  G.  W. 
Lewis,  who  came  to  this  coast  in  1856,  and  to  the  valley  of 
the  Santa  Ynez  in  1860.  He  owns  800  acres  of  its  best  lands, 


EXCURSIONS  FROM  SANTA    BARBARA. 


103 


well  watered  by  the  Alamo  Pintado  creek,  containing  an 
abundant  supply  of  wood  for  ifnel,  and  affording  good  water 
at  a  deptV  of  from  ten  to  thirty  feet.  The  climate  is  most 
healthful  and  delightful,  and  very  beneficial  to  asthmatics 
and  consumptives;  the  scenery  magnificent,  the  Santa  Ynez 
Hot  Sulphur  Springs  and  charming  Lake  Zaca,  within  three 
hours  drive,  while  th«^  foothills  abound  with  deer  and  small 
game,  and  the  strepn.s  with  fine  troat.  Ballard's  Station  is 
about  forty  miles  from  Santa  Barbara,  via  the  San  Marcos 
toll  road.  Biding  until  nightfall,  rider,  horse  and  dog 
found  a  welcome  rest  under  a  wide-spreading  live  oak,  until 
morning,  when,  at  an  early  hour,  I  rode  down  the  Marshall 
trail  to  Santa  Barbara. 

The  resources  of  Santa  Barbara  County  are  greatly  un- 
derestimated, not  only  by  the  public  generally,  but  also  by 
its  own  residents.  That  narrow  belt  of  rich  and  beautiful 
country,  embracing  the  delightful  valleys  of  La  Patera, 
Montecito,  and  Carpiuteria,  comprises  only  a  small  portion 
of  its  agricultural  and  horticultural  lands.  There  are 
ranches  in  the  western  portion  of  the  county,  now  occupied 
by  A  single  family,  and  a  few  thousand  head  of  sheep,  cattle 
and  horses,  and  their  shepherds  and  vaqueros,  which  are 
capable  of  supporting,  in  comfortable  circnmstances,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  families. 

Trip  No.  3. — Horseback  from  Santa  Barbara  to  San  Fi'an- 
cisco,  via  NewcomVs  While  SnJphnr  Springs,  San  Luis 
Obispo,  Paso  Eobles  Springs,  MotUerey,  Santa  Cruz  and 
San  Jose.   450  miles. 

I  have  already  described  the  general  features  of  the 
Coast  country  to  the  Santa  Maria  River.  This  stream  is 
the  boundary  line  between  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Luis 
Obispo  Counties. 


'i 


SAN  LUIS  OBISPO  COUNTY  contains  an  area  of  over 
2,000,000  acres  of  greatly  diversified  surface,  well  watered, 
embracing  magnificent  grazing,  farming  and  fruit  lands, 
possessing  a  delightful  climate,  and  yet  but  sparsely  settled, 
the  total  population  not  exceeding  15,000. 


U 


.^  '»j 


104 


CAUFORNIA. 


San  Luis  Obispo  is  the  princi],  al  town,  containing  about 
2500  people;  and  Ciimbria,  Moro,  Cayucas,  San  Simeon, 
San  Miguel,  Paso  Kobles  and  A.iToyo  Grande  the  other 
more  important  places. 

I  reached  Arroyo  Grande  the  third  day,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  visited 


li 

Hit 
Ij 


NEWCOMB'S  WHITE  SULPHUR  SPRINGS,  one  of 
the  most  popular  resorts  and  sanitariums  of  this  region. 
An  excellent  carriage  road  led  me  to  the  springs,  very  pleas- 
antly situated,  in  a  shady  oak  opening  on  Newcomb's  Creek, 
about  two  miles  from  the  depot  of  the  San  Luis  Obispo  a'tad 
Santa  Maria  Railroad.  They  burst  forth  with  a  flow  of  not 
less  than  five  inches,  having  a  temperature  of  about  100°, 
white  sulphur,  iron,  magnesia,  soda  and  common  salt  being 
their  most  prominent  qualities.  Over  110,000  have  been 
expended  in  improvements,  comprising  a  verv  comfortable 
hotel,  several  cosy  cottages,  nccommodafcing  60  persons,  ex- 
cellent bathing  facilities,  a  plunge  bath,  10x6  feet  and  4  feet 
deep,  temp.  94  \  for  adults;  one  8x4,  2  feet  deep,  for  children, 
and  several  ordintTy  baths,  temperature  98^.  The  purest,  cool 
mountain  water  flows  side  by  side  with  the  mineral  springs. 
The  properi:y  Giubraces  1500  acres,  and  affords  such  unusual 
facilities  for  campers,  that  the  Methodists  have  secured  a 
lease  of  a  portion  for  their  annual  meetings.  There  is  a 
spring  close  at  hand  which  possesses  remarkable  cleaning 
and  cleansing  qualities  for  washing  purposes,  and  an  abund- 
ant supply  of  wood  at  a  reasonable  charge.  The  situation  is 
exceedingly  healthy,  no  epidemics  or  malarial  diseases  ever 
having  been  known  there.  When  the  scarlet  fever  was  very 
prevalent,  the  200  children  at  the  springs  escaped  without  a 
touch.  The  annual  visitors  number  about  2500.  The  people 
of  the  neighbouring  countr}'  have  such  faith  in  the  powerful 
disinfecting,  preventive  and  curative  virtues  of  these  waters, 
that  many  of  them  carry  it  to  their  homes  when  sickness 
breaks  out  or  threatens. 

They  are,  without  doubt,  among  the  most  efficacious  for 
rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  liver  complaint  and  all  cutaneous  and 
blood  diseases.     The  charges  for  board,  rooms  and  baths 


THE  CELEBRATED  EL  PASO  DE  ROBLEB  SPRINGS.        105 


are  $10  per    week;    cottages,  with  stoves   and  furniture, 
from  13  to  $5. 

Route  from  San  Francisco  by  steamers  of  Pacific  Coast 
Steamship  Company  to  Port  Harford,  thence  25  miles  by 
San  Luis  Obispo  and  Santa  Maria  Railroad. 


I'  «■* 


SAN  LUIS  OBISPO,  I  was  very  favorably  impressed 
with  San  Luis  Obispo,  as  a  pleasant,  thriving  place.  It  is 
finely  situated  about  ten  miles  from  the  sea-coast,  at  Port 
Harford,  commanding  the  trade  of  the  most  productive  por- 
tion of  the  county.  En  route  from  thence,  I  passed  the 
Mountain  Hoxis'e,  Epifanio  Borando,  proprietor;  The  Eight 
Mile  House,  kept  by  the  Bean  Brothers;  Gen.  P.  W.  Murphy's 
splendid  50,000  acre  rancho,  the  San  Marguerita;  the 
ruins  of  the  old  mission  near  by,  and  Thomas  Cashjin's  Inn, 
stopping  over  night,  thirty-two  miles  out,  at 


'iBmui^vmssfSS^ 


THE  CELEBRATED  EL  PASO  DE  R0BLE8 
SPRINGS.  Unlike  so  many  mineral  springs,  hid  away  in 
comparatively  inaccessible  canons,  those  are  delightfully  situ- 
ated in  a  beautiful  live  oak  park,  surrounded  by  landscapes  of 
singular  beauty.  The  principal  spring  is  a  very  remarkable 
one,  not  only  ior  its  mineral  properties,  but  great  flow  of  water, 
estimated  at  over  500  gallons  per  hour,  with  a  temperature 
of  110^  Fahrenheit.    It  is  conducted  in  air-tight  pipes  direct 


■ 


II 


jin 

i 


r 


lOG  CALIFORNIA. 

from  the  spring,  without  losing  any  of  its  medicinal  proper- 
ties, into  an  extensive  bathing  establishment,  containing  the 
most  complete  facilities  for  hot  and  cold,  steam,  vapors, 
shower  and  plunge  baths,  under  the  supervision  of  experi- 
enced attendants. 

There  are  numerous  other  springs  upon  the  grounds,  the 
Sand  Spring  having  a  temperature  of  14G^, — Soda  and 
White  Sulphur,  Iron  and  Chalybeate  Springs,  ranging  in 
temperature  from  60°  to  80^  Fahrenheit. 

The  well-known  Mud  Bath,  for  the  cure  of  obstinate 
cases  of  rheumatism,  is  near  the  latter,  over  a  spring  having 
a  temperature  of  140'^  Fahrenheit;  one  imperial  gallon  show- 
ing the  following  analysis : 

Graiimpor  gallon. 

Sulphmeted  hydrogen  gas a.'28 

Carbonic  acid  gas  47.84 

Sulphate  of  lime 17.!»0 

Sulphata  of  Potassa traces 

Sulphate  of  Soda 41.11 

Silica 1.11 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 3.10 

Carbonate  of  Soda 5.21 

Chloride  of  Sodium   1)(J.4B 

Organic  Matter 3.47 

108.30 

The  hotel  accommodations  arc  extensive  and  complete, 
comprising  a  large  main  building,  a  spacious  and  elegant 
dining  hall,  fourteen  finely  furnished  cottages,  reading  and 
billiard  rooms,  store,  post-office,  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  's  Ex- 
press, telegraph  and  excellent  livery. 

An  experienced  physician  resides  constantly  at  the 
Springs,  which  are  open  the  year  round. 

There  are  good  hunting  and  fishing,  and  splendid  drives  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  climate  is  one  of  the  most  equable, 
enjoyable  and  healthy  in  the  world. 

There  are  two  routes  to  the  Springs,  by  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific R.  R.,  from  corner  Fourth  and  Townsend,  10:40  a.m., 
143  miles,  and  thence  84  miles  by  stage;  or  by  P.  S.  8.  Co.'s 
Steamers  to  Port  Harford,  rail  elev*':.  miies  to  San  Luis 
Obispo,  and  then  stage  28  miles.  Blackburn  Bros.  &  James 
are  the  proprietors. 


THE    SAN  MIGUEL   MISSION. 


107 


Analysis  of  one  gallon,  7000  grains,  of  the  principal  Paso 
Robles  Hot  Sulphur  Spring,  by  Professors  Price  and  Hew- 
ston  of  San  Francisco: 

Grains  perOallon. 

Sulphureted  Hydrogen  Gaa 4.45 

Free  Carbonic  Acid  Gas 10.50 

Sulphate  of  Lime 3.21 

Sulphate  of  Potassa 88 

Sulphate  of  Soda  (Glauber's  Suits) 7.85 

Peroxide  of  Iron 36 

Alumina 22 

Silica 44 

Bicarbonate  of  Magnesia 92 

Bicarbonate  of  Soda  50.74 

Chloride  of  Sodium  (Common  Salt) 27.18 

Iodide  and  Bromides,  traces  only 

Organic  Matter 1.64 


93.44. 


THE  SAN  MIGUEL  MISSION,  established  107  years 
ago,  is  situated  near  the  village  of  San  Miguel,  about  seven 
miles  from  Paso  de  Robles  Springs.  Antonio  Miller,  in 
charge,  kindly  showed  me  through  it.  Here  a  stock-raiser 
on  the  Estrella,  a  tributary  of  the  Salinas,  told  me  that  he 
had  just  finished  killing  1500  lambs  to  save  their  mothers 
from  starvation. 

A  Hopeful  Farmer. — On  the  San  Antonio  River,  ten 
miles  beyond,  a  farmer  was  engaged  in  plowing.  His  whole 
family,  evidently — wife,  girls  and  all — were  in  the  field  with 
him,  fat  and  jolly.  "  Can  you  raise  anything  without  more 
rain?"  I  asked.  "Yes;  a  pretty  fair  crop.  You  see  the 
ground  is  damp  enough  now  to  sprout  the  seed,  and  the 
roots  will  then  draw  sufficient  moisture  from  below  to 
mature  the  grain ;  besides  we  are  almost  sure  to  get  more 
rain  yet,"  he  answered,  with  the  utmost  confidence. 

His  Despondent  Neighbor. — At  the  next  place  there 
was  a  sign  out,  " /toney  for  sale, "  which,  misreading  hay,  I 
rode  up  to  the  fence,  and  tendered  an  old  lady  inside  the 
money  for  a  feed  for  my  horse.  "We  haven't  got  a 
spear  of  hay!  See  those  starving  cattle!"  she  said,  mourn- 
fully, pointing  to  a  hide-bound,  tottering  band,  a  little  way 


Hi 

nffi 

StUH 


l»  nit 


t'1 


108 


CALIFORNIA, 


off,  apparently  about  ready  to  surrender  to  the  buzzards. 
Presently  her  husband,  a  long,  lank  Southerner,  came 
up,  looking  as  though  he  had  lost  all  of  this  world's 
goods  and  happiness,  and  all  hopes  of  the  future.  "  I 
have  lived  in  California  thirty  years,"  he  said,  "and 
this  is  the  dryest,  coldest  winter  I  have  ever  known.  I 
have  got  as  moist  land  as  there  is  on  the  river,  but  unless  it 
rains  I  can't  raise  a  thing,  and  will  lose  most  of  my  stock." 
A  few  days  later  copious  showers  visited  all  this  section,  and 
everybody  was  happy — except  those  who  had  slaughtered 
the  innocents. 
I  was  soon  in 

MONTEREY  COUNTY,  comprising  36,000  square  miles, 
or  over  2,250,000  acres,  of  greatly  diversified  country,  era- 
bracing  extensive  and  excellent  stock  ranges,  fine  rolling, 
live-oak  wooded  foot-hills,  and  numerous  fertile  valleys,  con- 
taining a  population  of  about  12,000. 

Monterey,  Salinas  City,  Castrovillo,  Santa  Rita,  Nativa- 
dad,  Chuallar  and  Gonzales  being  the  most  important  cities 
and  towns. 

Sixty  miles  through  this  oxceeilingly  picturesque  and  in- 
teresting region — the  villages  of  Pleito,  Jolon  and  Lowes,  and 
I  descended  into 


^ 


THE  GREAT  SALINAS  VALLEY,  which  stretches 
away  from  the  sea-coast,  between  the  Gabilan  Mountains 
on  the  east,  and  the  Santa  Lucia  on  the  west,  for  over  a 
hundred  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  about  ten  miles. 
It  is  traversed  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  as  far  south 
as  Soledad,  143  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Here  they  were  catching  the  first  run  of  salmon,  while 
struggling  up  the  shallow  sand  bars  of  the  Salinas. 

Thence  across  that  stream,  via  Gonzales  and  Chualar,  the 
9th  of  March,  I  reached 


it 


■M 


, 


I 


rfi 


I 


I'  V, 


I  'I 


110 


CALIFORNIA. 


I 


hi 


MONTEREY,  THE  GREAT  WATERING-PLACE  OF 
THE  PACIFIC  COAST.— It  presents  a  combination  of  at- 
tractions and  advantages  unequalled  by  any  other  sea-side 
resort  in  the  United  States. 

These  are  a  beautiful  location,  a  most  delightful  and 
healthful  climate  the  year  round,  a  history  and  relics  of 
romantic  interest,  splendid  drives,  an  excellent  beach,  and 
the  most  magnificent  hotel  and  bathing  establishment  in 
this  country. 

The  first  capital  of  the  Golden  State  is  situated  on  the 
Bay  of  Monterey,  125  miles  by  rail  and  85  by  steamer,  south 
of  San  Francisco.  This  is  a  magnificent  body  of  water,  about 
25  miles  in  width,  with  beautiful  shores  of  clean  white  sand, 
strewn  with  sea-mosses,  shells,  pebbles  and  agates,  and 
abounds  in  fish,  rock  cod,  barracouta,  pompino,  Spanish 
mackerel  and  other  varieties. 

It  was  first  discovered  by  Don  Sebastian  Vizcayno,  about 
280  years  ago,  who  landed  with  his  soldiers,  and  called  the 
place  after  Count  De  Monterey,  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  under 
Philip  III  of  Spain. 

In  1770,  Father  Junipero  Serra  and  others,  in  the  name 
of  that  king,  took  formal  possession,  by  the  building  of  an 
altai",  the  hoisting  of  the  royal  standard,  firing  of  guns,  ring- 
ing of  bells  and  chanting  of  sacred  hymns.  Monterey  then 
became  one  of  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan Missions,  and  successively  the  gay  y nd  festive  seat  of 
Government  under  Spanish,  Mexican  and  American  rnle, 
down  to  1849.  Here  the  Spanish  Governors,  Jose  Arguello, 
Diego  de  Borca,  Jose  de  Arrillagaa,  Pablo  Vicento  de  Sola; 
then  eleven  Mexican  Governors,  the  last  being  Don  Pio 
Pico — whom  I  met  hale  and  hearty,  at  Los  Angeles,  a  few 
weeks  ago — made  their  homes  down  to  1846.  Then  came 
Commodore  Sloat,  and  Generals  Fremont  and  Kearney,  Col. 
Mason  and  Generals  Riley  and  Smith,  until  the  election 
of  Governor  Burnett,  in  1849,  and  the  removal  of  the  capital 
to  San  Jose.  With  the  decline  of  the  Mission  establish- 
ment, the  loss  of  the  capital  and  county  seat,  without  rail- 
way communication  or  local  industries,  she  slept,  undis- 
turbed, until  awakened  by  the  Narrow  Guage  Railroad  from 


im 


112 


CALIFORNIA. 


Salinas  in  1874,  and  resurrected  into  new  life  and  beauty, 
five  years  later,  by  its  selection,  by  the  Pacific  Improvomout 
Company,  as  the  most  favored  place  for  the  great  summer 
and  winter  resort  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  aud  the  expenditure 
of  half  a  million  of  dollars  in  the  erection  aud  sumjituous 
furnishing  of  a  palatial  hotel,  and  beautifying  of  extoiisive 
parks,  gardens  and  drives,  with  all  the  art  aud  adornment 
which  money  can  command. 

The  Climate  op  Montkbevt  is  one  of  the  most  eqiiablo, 
salubrious  and  enjoyable  on  the  globe.  It  i)08sesscH  a  delighi- 
ful  mean  the  year  round,  extremes  of  heat  or  cold  being  un- 
known. The  diflference  between  the  average  summer  tem- 
perature, .58°,  and  winter,  52-',  is  less  than  at  any  other  point  iu 
this  country,  and  finds  no  parallel,  except  at  Honolulu,  Sand- 
wich Islands.  To  the  Eastern  reader,  it  may  be  described 
as  a  perpetual  Indian  summer.  The  rainfall  seldom  exceeds 
thirteen  inches,  there  is  no  sultry,  enervating  heat,  the 
nights  are  always  cool,  and  malarial  fever  unknown. 

Meteorological  observations  taken  at  the  Hotel  del  Monte, 
from  July,  1880,  to  December  31,  1882:  , 


MONTUS. 

Hoan  Temperature. 

Temperature  for  Mouth 

Hidiil'all 
luchcs 

".'ii) 
5.47 

2.8.5 
2.07 
1.55 
1.55 

"!'20 

'  '.m 

1.20 
2.13 

1..50 

■     2.. 52 

5.64 

1.57 

"  .'22 

1.67 

1.02 

.86 

rrovailliig 
Wind 

8  a.m. 

1  P.M. 

6  P.M. 

64.69 
61.32 
58.33 
56.35 
48.33 
53.29 

60.35 
54.63 
53.77 
69.10 
59.38 
61.83 
62.51 
00.20 
68.73 
64.19 
48.20 
49.03 

45.64 
46  71 
61.35 
52.66 
67.68 
60.73 
03  00 
61.16 
69  33 
55.29 
49.03 
50.92 

Max. 

Mln. 

Mean. 

1880. 
July 

August 

September 

62.01 
59.81 
57.80 
54.67 
46.63 
50.41 

46.48 
62.82 
62.83 
60.00 
69.74 
62.10 
62.61 
60.12 
87.86 
63.96 
46.83 
46.81 

40.32 
44.10 
61.29 
63.66 
67.68 
59.97 
61.96 
60.41 
69.60 
56  41 
48.90 
46.74 

69.03 
69.68 
68.73 
(i7.64 
61.80 
57.93 

59.96 
61.60 
63.80 
67.10 
69.03 
71.60 
74.20 
70.29 
69.30 
64.67 
57.76 
68.25 

54.58 
64.25 
60.48 
61.33 
05.74 
68.63 
69.16 
73.41 
66.96 
66.22 
59.38 
61.74 

(i7.80 
67.00 
68.66 
67.66 
62.33 
68.33 

62.33 
02.66 
(S6.66 
68.00 
(i8.00 
68.33 
72.60 
66.66 
66.66 
60.66 
68.66 
63.66 

57.00 
58.66 
60.66 
03.33 
66.00 
67.00 
68.00 
69.33 
73.00 
64.33 
31.00 
S8.33 

61.13 
61.33 
68.33 
65.00 

40.  ;u 

49.33 

45.00 
52.00 
48.00 
58.00 
58.0(1 
62.66 
63  33 
61  (K) 
58.33 
52.33 
45.33 
45,00 

.'18.60 
41.66 
49.66 
52.66 
55.3;i 
60.  (m 
62.66 
60.  (if! 
60.00 
62.66 
46.00 
46.66 

65.20 
64.86 
01.60 
59.66 
51.13 
53.87 

63.67 
56. '28 
56.82 
62,26 
62.74 
64.92 
66.42 
63.. '•.9  1 
(il.96 
57.29  ; 
51.64  , 
51.00 

46.75 
51..'>2 
.54.29 
.57.78 
60.51 

m.u 

65.38 
63.82 
63. '-'6 
58.64 
.52.58 

5;l.l3 

.VorthwcKt. 
'Southwest. 
Went. 
.Northwest. 

Xorthwubt. 

South. 

1881. 

South. 

February 

March 

April 

Wu»t. 

Morthwest. 

West. 

May 

Oalm. 

June    

July  

Calm. 
Calm. 

August 

Calm. 
C^uliu. 

October 

Culm. 

November 

WeHt. 

December 

1882. 
J&nuftry 

SuulhwtHl. 
Went. 

NorthwcBt. 

Wedt. 

April 

May 

Juuo 

WeHt. 
WeHt. 
We»t. 

July 

South. 

AllfiTUBt 

South. 

Soutliwust. 

October 

Southwest. 

South. 

South. 

<  '•' 


M 
H 
'A 
O 


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O 
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a 


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it; 


lU 


CALlFonSIA. 


'•I!' 


The  Landhoai'K  op  the  Suiiuoundino  Countuy  is  (rhavmiug- 
\y  |)ictuvos<iue,  prosouting,  in  grout  divorsity  of  hcoiio,  liaiul- 
Boiiie  pinu  und  ouk-olad  inountain  sIopoH,  nhady  gloiiH,  and 
buautiful  Htroanis  and  lakoa.  Excolloiit  r<'-  •'  .ul  tlio  match- 
I08H  uliinato  invito  its  fuUost  onjoyjo'- 

THE  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE. —I  havo  visitcMl  noavly 
all  of  tilt)  most  oxtonsivo,  costly  and  ologant  iianivansariiis  in 
this  country,  including  those  of  tlio  groat  Atlantic  watcsring- 
placos,  and  nono  havo  filled  luy  miiul  with  such  iinprossions 
of  i)orfcct  architectural  Itoauty  of  design  and  finish  througii- 
out  as  the  Hotel  del  Monte.  It  is  built  in  the  modern 
gothic  style,  1)85  feet  in  length,  115  feet  in  width,  throe 
stories  higli,  with  lofty  towers,  broad  halls,  corridors  and 
verandas;  an  oHico  42x-t8  foot,  reading  room  24x'2()  feet, 
ladies'  billiard  rocnn  25xG2  feet,  Indies'  i)arlor  I{4xl2  foot, 
ball-room  .'{(>x72  feet,  dining-room  45x70  foot,  kitchen  ;};3x40 
foet,  and  89  suites,  in  all  300  rooms,  all  large,  light  and  airy, 
aud  richly  furnished  throughout;  lighted  wilh  gas,  and  su[)- 
pliod  with  excellent  artesian  water,  hot  and  cold  baths,  and 
all  the  modern  convenioncos. 

A  bowling  alloy,  smoking  room,  aiul  a  livery  of  hand- 
some (itpiipages,  occupy  sei)arato  and  ])erfo(!tly  ap])(>intod 
buildings.  The  U'ut'4  j^rounds,  comprising  120  acres,  natu- 
rally very  b<;uut'iu\  havo  been  made  a  Garden  of  Paradise 
by  the  skillful  1 1  idscape  gardener,  Mr.  IJlrich.  Winding 
aveuues,  shaiieu  by  the  native  forest  oaks  and  pines,  and 
transplanted  evergreen  in  great  variety,  and  white  gravelly 
walks  lead  to  the  hotel,  surrounded  by  the  greenest  and 
cleanest  of  lawns,  perpetually  blooming  flower  gardens, 
fountains  and  arbors,  delightful  croipuit,  lawn  tennis  and 
archery  grounds,  aud  plats  spreatl  with  the  clean  white  saiul 
for  the  frolics  of  the  children.  Excellent  macadamized 
roads  extend  for  miles  over  the  hotel  company's  property, 
which  embraces  a  tract  of  seveu  thousand  acres. 

The  bathing  establishment  is  by  far,  the  most  extensive 
and  complete  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  containing  210  dressing 
and  shower  bath  rooms,  affording  not  only  unsurpassed  ad- 
vantages for  open  sea  and  surf  bathing  on  the  splendid 


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116 


CALIFORNIA. 


beach,  but  comprising  also  four  great  swimming  tanks, 
erected  in  a  spacious  pavilion,  tilled  with  275,000  gallons  of 
salt  water,  and  heated  by  steam  to  any  desired  temperature. 

OBJECTS  AND  PLACES  OP  INTEREST. 

The  Kuins  of  the  San  Carlos  Mission,  founded  by  Father 
Junipero  Serra  in  1770,  lie  about  four  miles  from  Monterey. 
It  is  a  massive,  imposing  structure,  surmounted  by  two 
great  towers,  and  occupying  a  magnificent  site.  Its  church- 
yard contains  the  remains  of  Father  Sorra  and  many  of  the 
Governors  of  the  Province. 

This  was  one  of  the  most  prosperous  of  the  Mission  es- 
tablishments, its  possessions,  at  one  time,  comprising  90,000 
cattle,  60,000  sheep,  2000  horses,  370  yoke  of  oxen,  and  a 
large  amount  of  specie. 

The  old  mission  and  government  buildings,  the  Cuartel, 
Fort,  Custom  house,  Block  house,  Colton  Hall,  Commissariat 
and  Catholic  Church,  the  landing  place  of  Father  8.  rra,  and 
whaling  stations,  all  in  town,  and  Point  Pinos  Moss  Beach, 
Seal  Rocks,  Pebble  Beach,  Point  Lobos,  Pacific  Grove  Re- 
treat, and  Cyprosf  P-jint,  from  one  to  ten  miles  therefrom, 
are  other  objects  and  places  of  interest. 

THE  PACIFIC  GROYE  RETREAT.  This  moat  de- 
lightful summer  and  winter  resort  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  magnificent  bay  of  Monterey,  about  two  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  Hotel  del  Monte. 

The  grounds,  comprising  several  hundred  acres,  are 
finely  wooded  with  handsome  pine,  tastefully  laid  out  into 
avenues,  blocks  and  lots,  and  very  extensively  improved 
with  hotels,  cottages,  tents,  bathing  and  boating  houses, 
chapel,  livery,  store,  drives,  walks,  croquet  grounds,  swings, 
and  all  the  other  appurtenances  of  a  great  watering  place. 

In  addition  to  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent  fresh 
water,  there  is  a  mineral  spiing  of  valuable  medicinal  prop- 
erties. 

It  is  the  design  of  the  maut^gers  to  establish  here  a  sea- 
side resort  where,  added  to  ail  llic  charms  and  pleasures  of 
life  on  the  sea-shore,  in  this  matchless  climate,  are  the  com- 


■  i   M 


PAGIFIG   GROVE   UETREAT. 


117 


forks  and  security  of  Christiivn  homes.  The  sale  of  intoxi- 
cating liquors  is  strictly  prohibited,  and  such  excellent  order 
and  quiet  prevails,  that  hundreds  live  in  open  tents  in  per- 
fect safety. 


THE  PACIFIC  GROVE  HETHEAT. 


The  Grove  is  open  the  year  round,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  health  and  pleasure  resorts  o  i  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Elegant  four-hor^e  coaches  run,  ut  short  intervals,  be- 
tween the  Grove  and  Monterey  and  tue  Hotel  del  Monte. 


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118  CALIFORNIA. 

I  improved  a  rainy  day,  by  visiting 

THE  MONTEREY  WHALING  STATION,  situated 
within  a  mile  of  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  the  principal  one  on 
the  California  Coast.  The  Hump-back,  California  Gray, 
and  Eight  Whales  are  captured  in  considerable  num- 
bers, as  many  as  seventy-six  in  a  single  year,  by  the  Mon- 
terey Company,  yielding  from  25  to  100  barrels  of  oil  each. 
They  run  from  October  to  April,  and  when  ai^liti  i  i\  the 
watchman — always  on  the  lookout  in  clear  \'3(>i„j.  +he 
whalers,  all  hardy  Portuguese,  man  their  boats,  >  •  iv.  each, 
and  give  chase.  They  are  usually  overtaken  about  &ix  miles 
from  the  shore,  and  harpooned  in  the  heart  by  a  BWivel  gun 
or  bomb  lance,  at  a  distance  of  ten  fathoms,  hauled  on  the 
beach,  and  the  blubber  cut  out. 

It  is  always  an  intensely  exciting  and  not  infrequently 
an  extremely  perilous  occupation.  Sometimes  a  wounded 
whale  Avill  dash  off,  or  dive  with  great  velocity  to  a  greater 
distance  than  the  length  of  the  harpoon  rope,  dragging  the 
boat  and  crew  after  him,  unless  it  is  cut  with  unerring 
promptness.  In  their  dying  struggles,  they  also  sometimes 
lash  the  ocean  with  terrific  force,  tossing  high  in  the  air  the 
boats  which  have  ventured  within  range.  ' 

SANTA  CRUZ  COUNTY,  extending  from  the  bay  f 
Monterey  northward  about  forty  miles,  with  an  exkeme 
width  of  fifteen  miles,  is  next  entered.  It  contains  about 
320,000  acres  of  diversified  country,  embracing  the  fertile 
valleys  of  Francas,  Waddles,  San  Lorenzo,  Sequel,  Aptos, 
Valencia  and  Pajaro,  its  principal  streams,  the  rich  torr.'*coil 
slopes  and  foot-hills  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  and  the 
extensive  and  valuable  forests  covering  their  summits.  Tlio 
population  is  about  16,000;  Santa  Cruz,  Watsonvillo,  Socj-  1, 
Aptos,  Felton  and  Lorenzo  being  tlie  most  important  p'c,  s. 

Fording  the  Salinas  River  near  Blanco,  I  proceeded  abo«,( 
48  miles  via  Castroville,  Moss  Lauding  and  Aptos,  to 

SANTA  CRUZ,  the  second  ♦)'Ost  po^T  Ln*  watering  place 
on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Thoi\fxh  tnnporfi'  ()  ■.  ivtially  eclipsed 
by  th(i  palatial  splendor  of  tlifc  liotc'  accorumodations  of  its 


Wi 


SANTA    CRUZ. 


119 


beautiful  neighbor,  it  has  lost  noue  of  the  unsurpassed 
climate,  scenic  and  ocean  attractions  and  advantages  which, 
until  the  erection  of  the  magnificent  Hotel  del  Monte,  made 
it  the  great  sea-side  resort  of  California.  It  is  finely  situated, 
with  a  Southern  exposure,  on  the  north  shore  of  Monterey 
Bay,  about  80  miles  south  of  San  Francisco.  Surrounded 
on  the  north,  northwest  and  ewjt  by  picturesque  rolling  and 
mountainous  country,  covered  with  handsome  forests  of  pine 
and  redwood,  the  latter  embracing  the  famous  "Big  Tree 
Gi'oves,"  it  is  well  protected  from  the  harsh  north  winds 
which  sweep  down  the  coast,,  especially  during  the  winter 
months. 

The  climate,  for  equability  and  salubrity,  is  unsurpassed; 
the  mean  temperature,  dul^^{.5  the  '.^'inter  months  being  52°, 
and  summer  60  ;  8&^  and  31 '  above,  indicating  the  extremes 
for  a  term  of  years.  Though  so  mild  that  flowers  bloom 
throughout  the  year,  and  snows  are  unknown,  except  in  the 
distant  mountain  tops,  the  atmosphove  is  stimulating  and 
free  from  all  malaria. 

The  mean  annual  rainfall  between  October  and  May  is 
aboii.t  23  inches,  which,  with  the  precipitation  of  moisture 
from  the  ocean,  clothes  the  forests,  fields  and  gardens  of 
this  coast  county  with  green  verdure,  when  all  is  parched  and 
dried  up  with  heat  in  the  interior  valleys. 

There  are  fine  bathing  beaches,  excellent  bath-houses, 
and  first-class  hotel  accommodations. 

The  surrounding  country,  within  a  radius  of  twenty 
miles,  abounds  in  places  of  great  natural  beauty  and  in- 
terest, and  nfifordr.  good  deer,  rabbit  and  quail  hunting,  and 
trout  fish  in  c,'. 

After  visiting  the  splendid  beaches  of  Santa  Cruz,  San 
Lorenzo,  Moore's,  the  race  track,  the  light-house  and  its  mu- 
seum, all  near  town,  then  there  is  the  Natural  Bridge,  Happy 
Valley,  Soquol  Beach,  Camp  Capitola,  and  the  Big  Tree 
Grove,  within  five  miles;  Aptos  Hotel  and  Sea-side  Cot- 
tages, seven  miles;  The  Magnetic  Spring,  nine  miles;  Pel)bly 
Beach,  ten  miles;  Castle  Rock,  twelve  miles;  Scott  Creek 
Falls,  uineteoi  miles;  and  many  other  pleasant  places  of 
resort  less  than  a  day's  drive  distant. 


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THE  HOTELS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


121 


THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN  HOUSE,  E.  J.  Swift,  propri- 
etor, is  one  of  the  largest,  best  appointed  and  managed 
hotels  on  the  Southern  coast,  first  class  in  all  respects.  It 
is  centrally  and  pleasantly  situated  on  the  main  thorough- 
fare of  the  city,  within  two  blocks  of  the  railway  station, 
with  street  cars  passing  every  few  minutes  for  the  splendid 
beach.     There  are  one  hundred  rooms,  large,  light  and  airy. 


THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN  HOUSE. 


E.  J.  SWIFT, 


PROPRIETOR 


The  grounds  are  extensive  and  well  improved,  with  croquet 
games,  swings,  etc.,  etc.  A  free  coach  carries  passengers 
to  and  from  all  trains  and  steamers.  The  Bonner  Livery 
Stable,  A.  P.  Swan  ton,  proprietor,  is  on  Pacific  avenue,  nearly 
op[)osite,  and  Daniel's  Transfer  Express  office  close  at  hand 
on  Pacific  avenue,  opposite  Locust  street. 

THE  DOUGLAS  HOUSE,  A.  H.  Douglas,  proprietor, 
— the  only  hotel  on  the  beach — is  a  large  three-story  house, 
beautifully  situated  immediately  on  the  sea-shore,  command- 
ing a  splendid  view  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey  and  close  to 
steamer  landings,  railway  and  street  car  stations,  and  excel- 
lent bathing  facilities.  There  is  a  billiard  and  reading 
room,  the  apartments  are  spacious  and  sunny,  and  accom- 
modations throughout  first  class.  A  free  coach  runs  '  ~  and 
from  the  hotel. 


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■^    ! 


122 


CALIFORNIA. 


WILKIN8  HOUSE,  P.  V.  Wilkins,  proprietor.  This 
first  class  hotel,  especially  commended  as  a  quiet  family  re- 
sort, is  located  on  Pacific  avenue,  one  block  from  the  busi- 
ness center,  convenient  to  railway  depots  and  steamer 
landings.  Street  cars  run  to  the  magnificent  ocean  beach 
every  ten  minutes.  The  house  is  surrounded  by  handsome 
flower  gardens,  croquet  grounds,  swings,  etc.,  and  con- 
tains a  large  assembly  hall,  billiard  table,  piano,  etc.,  free 
to  all  guests.  The  rooms  are  in  both  suits  and  single,  large 
and  sunny,  and  the  table  supplied  with  all  the  delicacies  of 
the  season.     A  free  carriage  from  all  trains  t(    die  house. 


THE  W1I.KIN8  H018E. 


r.  V    WILKINS, 


Pi:OPRI6TOR. 


THE  SEA-SIDE  HOME  is  a  delightful  summer  and 
winter  resort,  finely  situated  immediately  on  the  shore  of 
Monterey  Bay,  close  to  steamer  landing,  and  all  railway 
depots  and  street  car  lines.  The  main  building,  with  sev- 
eral co.sy  cottage  additions,  under  the  excellent  management  of 
Mrs.  Frank  Lewis,  a  survivor  of  the  ill-fated  Donner  party, 
affords  first-class  accommodations  for  sevtMity  guests  the 
year  round.  The  "  Home  "  has  a  Southern  sunny  ox]iosnre, 
facing  the  splendid  beach,  Avhere  tliere  are  excellent  facili- 
ties for  bathing,  boating  ami  fishing. 


SAN  JOSE. 


123 


Taken  foii  a  Highwayman. — It  is  about  38  miles  over 
the  mountains  from  Santa  Cruz  to  San  Jose,  and  was  quite 
dark  when  I  began  to  descend  into  the  beautiful  Santa  Clara 
Valley  toward  the  Garden  City.  Its  enterprising  citizens, 
unbeknown  to  me,  were  experimenting  with  an  electric  light, 
which,  from  its  lofty  tower,  I  mistook  for  a  light-house,  and 
changed  my  course.  Soon  after  I  came  to  cross  rSads,  and 
not  knowing  which  to  take,  reined  up  my  horsc  to  inquire  of 
the  driver  of  a  covered  wagon  approaching.  Almost  instan- 
taneous with  the  sound  of  my  voice,  crack !  crack !  went  the 
whip,  and  away  flew  the  team  for  dear  life. 

At  midnight  I  reached  the  pretty  village  of  Santa  Clara, 
and  sought  lodging  for  the  night.  A  policeman  volunteered 
to  show  me  a  good  place,  which,  finding  to  be  a  private 
residence,  I  asked: 

' '  Is  there  no  hotel  in  San  Jose  ?" 

"This  is  not  San  Jose,  but  Santa  Clara,"  he  replied. 

Again  mounting  my  horse  and  following  down  the  rail- 
way three  miles,  I  reached  the  new  light-house  of 


SAN  JOSE,  just  after  the  lights  had  been  turned  out. 
This  beautiful  city  is  situated  49  miles  south  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, in  the  heart  of  the  rich  Santa  Clara  Valley,  surrounded 
by  orchards,  vinej'ards,  and  the  delightful  homes  of  a  happy 
people.  It  contains  at  present  a  population  of  about  20,000, 
many  handsome  blocks  and  residences,  and  splendid  parks 
and  avenues.  Its  principal  hotels  are  the  Auzerais  House. 
E.  Dell  wig,  proprietor;  Pacific  Hotel,  373  and  375  Market 
street,  Clias.  M.  Schiele,  proprietor;  Kiiss  House,  444  First 
street,  John  Barry,  proprietor;  Lick  House,  corner  First  and 
San  Fernando  streets  (terms,  $1.5'J  to  $2  per  day),  C.  H. 
Corey  and  L.  K.  Roberts,  proprietors. 

From  San  Jose  I  rode  tlirongh  Menlo  Park,  Redwood, 
San  Mateo  and  Millbrae  to  San  Francisco,  passing  the  ele- 
gant country  seats  of  Loland  Stanford,  James  C.  Flood,  Moses 
Hopkins,  William  Sharon,  D.  O.  Mills,  and  many  other 
magnificent  estates. 


124 


OALIPORNIA. 


EXCURSIONS  PROM  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

Trip  No.  1. — From  San  Francisco  to  the  Yosemite  Valley  and 
iJie  Mariposa  Big  Trees,  via  Madera,  Fresno  Flats  and 
Glai'k''s.    Round  trip,  650  miles. 

THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY  deservedly  occupies  the 
first  place  in  the  mind  of  the  tourist  in  the  New  Workl.  It 
lies  in  the  heart  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  about  155 
miles  southeast  of  San  Francisco,  and  was  first  discovered 
by  white  men  in  1850,  while  pursuing  the  hostile  Indians 
who  lived  in  this  mountain  stronghold. 

In  1851-2  they  were  again  followed  into  the  valley  and 
severely  punished  by  volunteers,  under  command  of  Cap- 
tain Boling,  and  others. 

During  the  next  few  years  it  was  visited  by  a  few  adven- 
turous, prospectors  and  hunters,  when,  in  1855,  Mr.  Hutch- 
ings,  now  the  Guardian  of  the  Valley,  hearing  of  its  wonders, 
against  the  advice  of  his  friends,  guided  by  two  trusty  In- 
dians, made  the  journey  through  the  then  trackless  forest, 
became  the  pioneer  tourist  to  the  Yosemite,  and  gave  to  the 
world  its  first  published  description. 

Its  fame  soon  spread  abroad,  a  trail  was  made  into  the 
valley  the  following  year,  temporary  hotels  opened,  and 
though  the  trip  involved  a  severe  and  hazardous  horseback 
ride  of  over  one  hundred  miles,  attracted  from  year  to  year 
such  an  increasing  number  of  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the 
world,  that  in  18G4  Congress  granted  the  valley,  including  a 
tract  fifteen  miles  in  length  and  extending  back  one  mile 
from  the  brink  of  the  mountain  wall  immediately  surround- 
ing it,  to  the  State  of  California,  conditioneu  that  it  be 
forever  held  for  public  use,  resort  and  recreation,  ten-year 
leases  therein  given,  and  the  proceeds  thereof  expended  in 
its  improvement.  The  State  accepted  the  trust,  placed  it  in 
charge  of  Commissioners,  who,  by  purchasing  private  toll 
trails  and  making  them  free,  building  new  and  excellent 
carriage  roads  and  fine  substantial  bridges,  encouraging  the 
erection  of  comfortable  hotels,  have  greatly  facilitated  travel 
thereto  and  therein,  and  by  the  extinguishment  of  private 
claims,  preserved  this  unique  creation  intact  for  the  wonder 
and  admiration  of  future  generation^, 


91 
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126 


CALIFORNIA. 


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The  valley  is  about  eight  miles  in  length,  from  one  half 
to  a  mile  in  width,  3950  feet  above  the  sea,  containing  about 
1141  acres,  745  of  which  are  meadow.  It  is  enclosed  by  a 
wall  of  granite,  from  2500  to  3300  feet  in  lieight,  in  many 
places  perpendicular  and  surrounded  by  mountains  rising 
from  2000  to  4000  feet  higher,  or  10,000  feet  above  the  sea 
level. 

Down  these  mountain  walls  plunge  half  a  score  of  cata- 
racts in  early  spring-time,  leaping  from  400  to  2(500  feet  at  a 
bound,  into  the  beautiful  valley  beneath,  their  united  waters 
forming  the  main  Merced,  which  courses  gracefully  among 
the  handsome  forest  trees  at  their  base. 

The  following  comprise  the  most  important  mountain 
peaks  and  waterfalls  of  the  Yosemite : 


Indvan  Name. 


MOUNTAINS. 
Signijicatiun. 


American  Xamn.       Height. 

Keot 

Tu-tock-a-uula Great  C;hief  of  the  Valley.   El  Capitan 3300 

Po-see-nah-chuck-ka. Large  Acorn  Cache Cathedral  ItockH 2()(J0 

Pom-pom-pasuH Monntaius  playing  leap  frog.  Three  Brothers 3830 

Wah-wah-lena Three  (rraces 3400 

Loya . , The  Watch  Tower   Sentinel    llock 3043 

Loya The  Signal  Station Sentinel  Dome 4500 

Hunto WaBliiugtou   Column .  1875 

To-koy-ie Shade  to  Indian  haby  basket.  .North  Dome 35(i8 

Tis-sa-ack  Goddess  of  the  Valley .....  South  Dome 4737 

(ilacier  Point 3257 

Mah-tu Martyr  Mountain  . .   Cap  of  Liberty 3100 

Clouds  Rest 6000 

Mount  Starr  King 5600 

W.\TEll-FALLS. 

Po  ho-no Spirit  of  the  evil  wind Bridal  Veil   900 

Yosemite Large  Grizzly  Bear. .    Yosemite 2526 

(Upper  fall  1500,  middle  fail  600,  lower  400  feet.) 

Loya Sentinel  Falls 3270 

To-koy-te  Shade  to  Indian  baby  basket . .  lloyal  Arch  Falls . .  1000 

Lung-oo-too-koo-ya .  . .  Long  and  Slender  Virgin  tears 3306 

Tolool-we  ack Rushing  Water South  Pork  Falls. .  500 

Pi  wa-ack  Cataract  of  Diamonds  Vernal 400 

Yo- wi-ye Meandering       Nevada .   600 

The  paintings  of  the  great  masters  and  the  most  eloquent 
descriptions,  had  given  me  but  a  faint  conception  of  the  un- 
speakable grandeur  and   glory  of  the   scene  which  met  my 


THE    YOSKMITE    VALLEY. 


127 


gaze  from  Glucier  Point,  Soutiiiol  Domo,  South  Doiao, 
Clouds  Rest  and  Inspiration  Point,  of  this  greatest  of  Ood's 
wonder  lands.  Here  lie,  within  range  of  the  unaided 
vision,  more  stupendous,  sublime  and  beautiful  forms  of 
nature  than  can  be  found  elsewhere  upon  the  globe.  Moun- 
tains in  all  their  towering  majesty,  water-falls  of  wondrous 
beauty,  charming  valleys,  crystal  streams  and  gloaming 
lakelets,  and  the  giant  monarehs  of  the  forest,  unite  in  pre- 
senting a  spectacle  as  far  surpassing  the  most  brilliant  im- 
aginings, as  God  is  above  his  creatures. 

The  mind  can  compass  the  greatest  works  of  human 
hands,  but  pile  the  Egyptian  Pyramids,  St.  Peters  of  Rome, 
the  Cathedral  of  Strasburg  and  the  Capitol  at  Washington, 
one  upon  another  at  the  foot  of  El  Capitan,  and  then  stand- 
ing upon  the  top,  look  up  two  thousand  feet  into  the  face  of 
this  mountain-god,  cast  the  eyes  for  miles  along  the  dizzy 
summits,  follow  the  plunging  cataracts  into  the  beautiful 
valley  beneath,  tiace  the  winding  river,  and  then  spanning  the 
awful  chasm,  survey  the  grand  old  peaks  which  live  among 
the  clouds  beyond,  and  who  can  imagine  or  measure  the 
grandeur  and  beauty  of  this  most  sublime  architecture  of 
the  Master  Builder  ! 

There  are  at  present  three  routes  to  the  valley,  via  Stock- 
ton, Milton,  Calaveras  Grove  and  Murphy's,  Merced,  Mari- 
posa and  Clark's,  and  via  Madera  and  Clark's;  respectively 
300,  243,  and  275  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

The  latter,  a  splendid  mountain  road,  amidst  the  most 
magnificent  scenery,  is  the  favorite  route.  I'ho  last  70  miles 
was  built  by  Mr.  A.  H.  Washburn,  in  1874-5,  for  the  Yo- 
semite  Turnpike  Company,  of  which  he  is  the  able  superin- 
tendent. 

Prior  to  its  opening,  tourists  via  Clark's  rode  into  the 
valley  horseback  from  Mariposa,  a  distance  of  53  miles. 
The  old  timers  relate  how  that  poor  Horace  Greeley,  with 
the  delicate  skin  of  a  woman,  after  making  this  trip  had  to 
be  lifted  from  the  saddle,  and  oiled  and  bandaged  like  a 
helpless  infant. 

Mr.  Washburn  has  also  just  completed  a  branch  road 
from  Chincopin  Junction,  14  miles  to  Glacier  Point,  for  the 


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128 


CALIFORNIA. 


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oonvenienoe  of  those  tourists  who  desire  to  see  the  most  in 
the  least  possible  time.  The  Company  run  daily  lines  of 
excellently  'iquipped  six-horse  Kimball  coaohes  from  Ma- 
dera, employing  none  but  the  most  experienced,  skillful  and 
temperate  drivers.  Such  great  care  is  exercised  in  this  re- 
spect, that  accidents  seldom  occur,  the  present  regular 
drivers  having  the  remarkable  record  of  never  harming  a 
passenger,  though  the  veteran  driver  Dowsthas  lield  the  reins 
continuously  for  30  years  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  George 
Monroe,  a  colored  man,  14  years  for  the  Company.  Mr. 
Dowst,  an  intelligent,  sociable  man,  who  takes  great  pleasure 
in  giving  all  possible  information  concerning  the  points  and 
objects  of  interest  en  route,  told  mo  that  he  had  token  two 
stage  loads  of  people  into  the  valley  who  never  asV  him  a 
airu/le  question,  though  he  was  almost  aching  to  1  hem; 

but  that  a  strange  horse  never  failed  to  manifest  its  sensi- 
bility to  the  striking  grandeur  of  the  scenery  by  a  prouder 
carriage,  higher  step  and  head,  and  wondering  eyes. 

Taking  the  4  P.  M.  train  of  the  C.  P.  R.  JX.  at  Oakland, 
and  supper  at  the  Lathrop  Hotel,  Stuckpole  &  Lincoln, 
proprietors,  we  arrived  at  Mi'dera,  185  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  about  11:50  r.  m.,  where  good  accommodations 
are  found  at  Mace's  Hotel  for  those  who  prefer  not  to  re- 
main in  the  sleeping  car  until  morning.  Captain  Mace,  the 
jovial  host,  of  330  pounds  weight,  is  a  fitting  introduction  to 
the  big  sights  coming.  The  stage  letives  at  7  a.  m.  and  rolls 
away  rapidly  14  miles  across  the  level  plains  b'^fore  beginning 
the  gradual  ascent  of  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierras.  The 
great  lumber  flume  of  the  Madera  Flume  and  Trading  Com- 
pany, which  extends  for  56|  miles  up  into  the  mountain  for- 
ests, carrying  150  miner's  inches,  and  154,000  feet  of  lumber 
its  entire  length  in  twelve  hours,  keeps  us  company.  Over 
the  handsome  rolling  foothills,  sparsely  wooded  with  live 
oak  and  pine  trees,  through  Rallsville,  changing  horses  at 
Dustin's,  we  stopped  for  a  good  dinner  at  the 


Coarse  Gold  Gulch  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  John  Krohn, 
36  miles  from  Madera,  and  30  miles  from  Ciark's.  The 
elevation  is  2250  feet,  climate  most  healthful  and  enjoyable. 


YOS EMITS   HOTELS. 


129 


and  water  oxoellent.     Proceeiliiig  with  frosli  liorses  through 
tiie  miuiug  town  of 

DUTCH  FLA.T,  the  woo(1h  gradually  thicken  with  yellow 
pine  and  cedar,  until  reaching  the  divide,  at  an  elevatioa  of 
4500  feet  we  outer  the  borders  of  the  magniticent  forest  of 
sugar  pine  which  covers  the  summits  of  these  mountains. 
One  which  I  measured  was  30 feet  in  circumference,  s'raight 
as  an  arrow,  and  over  200  feet  in  height. 

Hero  we  halted  a  few  moments  for  a  refreshing  drink  from 
a  spring  of  excellent  water  near  the  Surveyor's  cam])  of 

The  Uniteo  States  Centkvl  Railway,  of  which  Colonel 
Lyman  Bridges,  a  member  ol  our  party,  is  Chief  Engineer. 
This  railway  is  projected  and  located  from  San  Francisco  to 
Denver  ina  the  Big  Trees,  and  proposes  to  complete  its  line 
to  near  this  point  the  coming  year,  thus  enabling  tourists  to 
go  within  twenty  miles  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  by  rail,  at  a 
saving  of  the  150  miles  of  staging,  as  by  the  present  route. 

The  company  claim  that  their  line  will  be  200  miles 
shorter,  between  Denver  and  San  Francisco,  than  any  other, 
and  pass  through  a  region  of  unparalleled  scenery,  con- 
taining very  extensive  and  rich  de[)03its  of  gold,  silver,  lead, 
iron,  coal  and  salt,  and  the  greatest  body  of  valuable  timber 
in  the  interior  of  the  continent. 

About  6  o'clock,  we  reached 

CLAliK'S  OR  THE  WAWONA  HOTEL,  Washburn  & 
Co.,  proi)rietors,  beautifully  situated  ou  the  banks  of  the  South 
Merced,  one  of  the  most  delightful  mountain  resorts  I  have 
ever  seen.  It  is  named  from  Galen  Clark,  who  formerly 
kept  the  station,  a  pioneer  of  the  Yosemite  and  its  first  guar- 
dian. 

The  property  embraces  a  magnificent  tract  of  nine  hun- 
dred acres,  with  extensive  hotel  and  cottage  buildings,  oc- 
cupying a  pleasant,  suuny  slope,  surrounded  by  the  grandest 
forest  and  mountain  scenery  in  the  world. 

The  great  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees  is  only  six  miles 
distant,  the  beautiful  falls  of  Chindualdo  about  three,  and 
Signal  Peak,  commanding  one  of  the  most  extensive  and 
sublime  views,  within  an  hour's  ride. 


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130 


CALIFORNIA. 


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The  forests  abound  with  game,  the  streams  with  trout, 
and  the  mountain  air  and  water  is  delicious. 

At  an  early  hour  the  following  morning,  we  were  off  for 
the  Valley,  a  glorious  ride  of  twenty-six  miles. 

Following  the  south  fork  of  the  Mercied  eip;ht  miles  to 
Lookout  Point,  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  Signal  Peak,  the 
canon  of  the  Merced,  and  the  distant  valley  of  the  San 
Joaquin,  then  crossing  Deer  Creek  and  over  the  summit  at 
an  elevation  of  6700  feet,  descend  a  short  distance  to  Chin- 
copin  Junctio'j,  where  taking  the  new  Glacier  Point  road,  by 
Badger  Pass,  Paragon  Meadows,  crossing  the  old  Mono 
trail,  near  Point  Washburn,  we  reach  the  summit  of  Sentinel 
Dome  ill  time  to  se?  the  sun  set  upon  the  sublimest  spectacle 
which  ever  met  the  gaze  of  man. 

THE  GLACIER  POINT  HOTEL,  by  James  McCauley, 
perched  only  a  few  rods  from  the  brink  of  this  awful 
precipice,  affords  a  good  clean  bed,  excellent  table  fare,  and 
commands  all  the  grandest  views  of  the  Valley,  and  the  best 
of  Nevada  and  Vernal  Falls.  A  good  trail  leads  to  Sentinel 
Dome,  one  and  a  quarter  miles  distant,  950  feet  higher, 
and  another,  built  by  Mr.  McCauley,  four  miles  into  tlie 
Valley,  3200  feet  below.  Descending  the  latter,  a  most  ex- 
cellent Avork,  stopping  by  the  way  to  survey  the  enchanting 
views  from  Union  and  uther  ''•oints,  in  about  two  hours  I 
was  eating  delicious  mountain  trout  at 

LEIDIG'S  HOTEL,  the  first  reached  in  the  Vnlley,  en- 
tering by  Inspiration  Point,  the  customary  route.  It 
is  a  commov^ious  two-story  building,  admirably  situated, 
frontiiig  the  ^ronderful  Yosemite  Fa'ls,  under  the  shadow  of 
Sentinel  Rock,  3270  feet  above.  It  -iicupies  historic  ground, 
the  site  of  the  first  house  erected  in  the  Valley,  by  (1.  A. 
Hite,  in  1850.  There  are  good  accommodations  for  thirty 
guests,  at  the  usual  rates,  $4  per  day.  Yosemite  Falls  iw? 
three  and  a  half  miles.  Sentinel  Dome  five  and  a  half,  Ver- 
nal Falls  five,  Nevada  Falls  six,  South  Dome  eight,  ":ud 
C'louds'  Resi,  thirteen  miles  distnnt. 

Proceeding  up  the  valley  past  the  pleasant  studio  of 
Fisk,  the  pioneer  photographic  artist  of  the  Yosemite, 


YOUEMITE   HOTELS. 


131 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY  HOUSE,  J.  J.  Cook,  propri- 
otor,  is  soon  reached.  It  is  centrally  ancl  admirably  situatad, 
commanding  the  grandest  views,  the  Yo.semite  Fulls  and  Eagle 
Peak  in  front,  Sentinel  Peak  and  Domb,  Union  and  Glacier 
Points  in  the  rear.  The  buildings  are  quite  commodious 
and  comfortable,  embracing  st^  arate  cottages,  a  hot  and 
cold  bath-house,  post-office.  Wells  Fargo  Express  and  a  well- 
furnished  liv^ery  of  carriage  and  saddle  horses.  Thir;  is  one 
of  the  most  popular  houses  in  the  Yosemite,  convenient  to 
all  its  pcrlnts  of  greatest  interest  and  the  objective  and  start- 
ing place  of  all  the  stages  of  the  Yosemite  Turnpike  Com- 
pany, of  >vhich  Mr.  Cook  is  agent.  Visitors  will  ftnd  here 
the  best  of  fare  and  the  most  courteous  attention.  A  half 
mile  further  brings  us  to 

BARNARD'S  YOSEMITE  FALLS  HOTEL,  Jdm  K. 

Barnard,  proprietor,  which  with  its  large  main  building  and 
elegant  cottagers,  fine  bathing  establishment,  billiard  and  read- 
ing rooms,  post  and  stage  offices,  artists' studios  and  fine  livery, 
forms  quite  a  village,  the  principal  business  center  of  the 
valley.  It  is  situated  immediately  on  the  banks  of  the 
beautiful  Merced,  here  spanned  by  a  handsome  iron  bridge, 
affords  excellent  accommodations  for  150  guests,  and  com- 
mands the  grandest  views  of  the  valley.  The  original  Hutch- 
ings  House  has  been  converted  into  a  beautiful  parlor  and 
sitting  room.  The  latter  is  built  around  the  base  of  a  splen- 
did specimen  of  yellow  piie,  7i  feet  in  diameter  and  175  in 
height,  and  with  its  oh'  Oshioned  fire-place  and  furnishings 
has  all  the  charms  of  u  bivouac  in  the  wild  woods,  with  the 
added  comforts  and  pleasures  of  home.  Adjoining  Bar- 
nard's is 


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111. 


THE  COSMOPOLITAN,  E  S.  Utter,  proprietor,  an  ele- 
gant bathing  establishment,  reading  and  billiard  parlors  und 
hair  dressing  rooms  for  both  ladies  and  gentlemen,  the  most 
complete  found  outside  of  the  great  cities.  There  are  fine  hot 
and  cold  batli  rooms,  finely  carpeted  and  appointed  through- 
out.    Many  of  the  fnrnishiugs  ure  really  extravagant.     The 


1^^ 


182 


CALIFORNIA. 


rOSEMITE  HOTELS. 


133 


office  safe  is  magnificent,  an  album  holds  a  thousand  pic- 
tures, and 

The  Great  Yosemite  Eegister  is  a  wonder,  2  feet  long 
and  8  inches  thick,  weighing  118  pounds,  containing  16,500 
autographs,  beginning  with  E.  J.  or  "Lucky"  Baldwin's,  and 


O 
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including  those  of  the  most  distinguished  visitors  fi'um  our 
own  and  foreign  countries,  together  with  their  remarks  upon 
the  Yosemite.  President  Garfield,  under  date  of  May  15, 
1875,  says: 

"  No  one  can  tbonghfully  Htnd}'  thiH  vnlley  and  its  suiTonndings,  without 
being  broader  minde<1  hereafter."  J.  A.  Q. 


■ 


134 


CALIFORNIA. 


Joseph  Cook,  June  7th,  1879 : 

"  The  hiliH  of  God  support  the  skies, 
To  God  let  adoration  rise  ; 
Let  hills  and  skies  and  heavenly  host, 
Praise  Father,  Son  and  Holy  Ghost." 
"  Best  outlook,  Glacier  Point  and  Sentinel  Dome." 

Count  de  Alexis,  July  20th,  1874 : 

"  I  can  dare  say  that,  during  the  time  of  my  young  life,  I  never  had  any 
better  baths  than  at  this  place.  Our  Russian  friends  will  find  that  it  heats 
every  one  of  our  bathing  accommodations. ' ' 

There  is  no  end  of  poetic  eflforts,  most  of  which  are  lit- 
erary curiosities,  worthy  of  inspection.  Mr.  Utter  has  re- 
fused a  thousand  dollars  for  the  volume. 

Three  miles  beyond  Barnard's,  by  an  excellent  carriage 
road,  one  up  the  wild  canon  of  Tenaya,  lies  the  charming 
Mirror  Lake  which,  eai'ly  in  the  day,  before  the  breezes 
ripple  its  handsome  face,  reflects  the  grandest  scenery  of  the 
globe.  South  Dome  and  the  neighboring  peaks.  Its  greatest 
depth  I  found,  by  several  soundings,  to  be  about  twenty  feet. 

Then  following  up  the  Merced  by  a  good  trail  three 
miles,  I  reached 

SNOW'S,  the  most  picturesque  in  situation  of  all  these 

mountain  resorts, 
built  upon  a  bench 
of  granite,  at  the 
base  of  the  Ca[)  of 
Liberty,  under  the 
spray  of  the  mag- 
nitic  ent  Nevada 
Falls,  overlooking 
tlie  beautiful  Ver- 
Jial,  and  acrc).».s  the 
awful  chasm  ot  Yo- 
semite,  up  to  the 
towering  heights  of 
Glacier  Point  and 
Sentinel  Dome. 

All  of  the  lumber 
for  a  very  comfort- 
able hotel,  100  feet 

LIUKUTy  CAP  (MT.  BBOOKIUCK.) 


Y08EMITE  HOTELS. 


135 


in  length,  and  a  sixteen  room  cottage  with  bed-rooms  hand- 
somely paneled  with  sugar  pine  by  Mr.  Snow,  were  packed 
over  the  mountains  upon  the  backs  of  mules. 

When  Mrs.  Snow,  the  excellent  hostess  and  housekeeper, 
came  to  take  possession  of  her  mountain  home,  thirteen 
years  ago,  no  bridges  had  been  built,  and  she  was  carried 
over  the  foaming  Merced  in  the  arms  of  her  husband,  and 
her  young  daughter,  in  like  manner,  by  a  stalwart  young 
man,  her  betrothed  lover. 

Six  miles  more,  and  then  a  climb  by  rope  hand  over 
hand,  of  900  feet,  at  an  angle  ef  45^,  and  I  stood  upon  the 
summit  of  South  Dome,  one  of  the  grandest  pinnacles  on 
earth.  Its  first  ascent  was  made  by  Geo.  Anderson,  Oct. 
12th,  1875.  It  should  only  be  undertaken  by  those  strong 
of  limb  and  nerve,  until  rests  have  been  provided  for  pro- 
tection, in  case  of  accident. 

Following  tht)  divide  eastward  about  three  miles,  scaling 
the  intervening  peaks,  at  4  o'clcik  I  surveyed  from  the  top  of 
Clouds  Rest  all  that  is  grandest  of  the  Sierras  —Mounts  Starr 

King,  Hayes  and  Clark,  Red 
Mountain  and  Pyramid  Peaks 
of  the  Obelisk  Group,  and 
sweeping  soxithward  and  then 
westward,  all  of  the  sublime 
peaks  surrounding  the  won- 
derful Yosemite. 

Having  left  Cook's  on  foot  in 
the  morning,  I  was  well  satis- 
fied to  descend  the  mountains 
to  Snow's  for  the  night. 

I  returned  down  the  Vernal 
Falls    ladders,    built    by   Mr. 
Snow,  for  the  pedestrian  trail 
which  unites   with  the  horse- 
back trail  at   Register   Rock. 
The  pleasure  tourist  should 
take   two  or  three  days   to    make   the 
ascent,    horseback   from   the  valley,   of 
(uth.er  South  Dome  or  Clouds  Rest. 

DOWN  VKKNM.  KAI,I,8. 


11 


J 


136 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  Yosemite  Woods. — The  forest  trees  of  the  valley  are 
chiefly  pine,  cedar,  tamrack,  spruce,  black  and  live  oak,  the 
largest  being  a  sugar  pine  eight  feet  in  diameter,  growing  on 
the  bank  of  the  Merced  Eiver.  Silver  fir,  mountain  mahog- 
any, laurel,  spicewood,  juniper,  manzanita  and  arrow  wood 
are  also  distributed  through  it.  Mr.  Adolph  Sinning,  a 
very  skillful  resident  workman,  manufactures  exceedingly 
fine  Yosemite  curiosities,  cabinet  and  fancy  articles  from  all 
these  different  varieties.  His  Yosemite  Chess  Table  is  a 
masterpiece,  representing  upwards  of  100  kinds  of  woods 
growing  within  a  radius  of  50  miles. 

The  Climate  and  Productions  of  the  Yosemite. — Inter- 
views with  the  pioneers  of  the  valley,  Hutchings,  Leidig, 
McCauley,  Cunningham,  Snow,  Sinning  and  Harris,  resi- 
dents of  from  ten  to  twenty  years,  show  that  the  extremes  of 
temperature  are  about  2'-'  below  and  94°  above  zero;  snow- 
fall, two  to  seven  feet,  about  four  feet  being  tlie  average, 
commencing  from  the  1st  to  the  10th  of  November,  and  last- 
ing until  April  and  sometimes  to  the  latter  part  of  May,  The 
streams  are  fullest  in  May  and  June,  which  is  the  best  time 
to  see  the  water-falls  of  the  Yosemite. 

Vegetables  and  apples,  plums,  raspberries,  blackberries 
and  strawberries  are  grown  in  abundance.  Mr.  Harris 
raised  about  twenty  tons  of  apples  last  year.  The  first 
orchard  was  set  out  by  J.  G.  Lemon,  deceased,  who  made 
the  first  permanent  settlement  in  the  valley,  in  1860. 

The  Hunters  of  the  Yosemite,— The  forests  of  the 
Sierras  abound  in  bear,  deer,  wolf,  coyote,  fox,  coon,  grouse 
and  other  small  game.  At  Barnard's  I  found  John  Johnson, 
who  has  killed  sixty  bear,  skinning  a  700-pound  grizzly,  6J 
feet  in  length,  and  a  cinnamon  bear,  just  brought  in.  Soon 
after  I  met  another  great  hunter,  Jim  Duncan,  who  has  slain 
over  eighty  bear,  and  deer  without  number. 

The  Artiots  of  the  Valley,— I  pity  the  artist  of  genius 
who  attempts  to  represent  upon  canvass  the  glorious  scenery 
of  the  Yosemite,  and  can  fully  appreciate  the  feelingf  of 
those  eloquent  writers  who  have  candidly  confessed  their 
utter  inability  to  fitly  portray  its  matchless  wonders.  Every- 


THE   MARIPOSA   BIO    TREES. 


137* 


body  is  familiar  with  the  master-pieces  of  Bierstadt.  Mrs. 
Snow  rehited  to  me  tliat,  when  he  was  painting  the  magnifi- 
cent Nevada  Falls  from  their  place,  when  there  were  a  large 
number  of  visitors,  no  one  responded  to  the  ring  of  the 
dinner  bell.  Going  into  the  parlor,  she  found  the  whole 
party  surrounding  the  great  artist  and  his  work.  She  stood 
admiring  with  the  rest  for  a  moment,  and  then  said  good 
naturedly  to  Mr.  Bierstadt:  ''If  yoii  don't  put  away  your 
painting,  we'll  never  get  through  with  our  dinner  in  the 
world"  Of  coarse  he  yielded  to  such  a  complimentary 
appeal. 

Ml .  Thorn  IS  Hill,  whose  $.25,000  painting,  "Driving  the 
Last  Spike,"  10000  "Donner  Lake"  and  $5000  "  Yosemite," 
won  him  the  Centennial  first  medal  and  a  national  reputation, 
has  made  the  Yosemite  his  great  study  for  the  last  twenty 
years.     From  his  pretty  studio  are  seen  its  sublimest  views. 

Fisk,  the  well  known  photographer,  has  a  very  extensive 
collection  of  Yosemite  views,  comprising  250  Summer  and 
75  Winter  scenes.  Watkins,  Taber,  and  Houseworth,  of  San 
Francisco,  also  have  large  collections  of  Yosemite  views. 

THE  HETCH-HETCHY  VALLEY.— Another  wonder- 
ful valley,  known  as  the  Hetch-Hetchy,  is  situated  on  the 
Tuolumne  River,  about  sixteen  miles  north  of  the  Yosemite, 
at  an  elevation  of  3650  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  about  three 
miles  in  length,  and  from  one-eighth  to  five-eighths  of  a 
mile  in  width,  with  perpendicular  granite  walls  in  places 
upwards  of  2000  feet  in  height.  Tliei'e  are  numerous  re- 
markable waterfalls,  the  Tu-e-eu-la-lah  leaping  neai'ly  a 
thousand  feet,  and  a  cascade  of  exceeding  grandeur  de- 
scending 1700  feet  »most  perpendicular.  The  route  thereto 
is  via  the  C.  F.  li.  R.,  Lathrop,  Stockton,  Milton  and  Big 
Oak  Flat,  Colfav  Springs  and  Hog  Ranch,  the  last  ten  miles 
by  a  gooil  horsebaclc  trail. 


THE  MARIPOSA  BIG  TREES.— These  groat  natural 
wondei's  of  the  Sierras,  also  a  Government  reservation  of 
four  sections,  granted  to  the  State  of  California  upon  the 
same  conditions  as  the  Yosemite,  are  about  sixteen  miles 


188 


CALIFORNIA. 


southeast  of  the  valley  and  six  miles  from  Clarlt's,  or  the 
Wawona  Hotel. 

There  are  two  groves,  the  upper  containing  365  of  the 
sequoia  gigantte,  from  one  foot  to  thirty-three  feet  in  diam- 
eter, and  the  lower  comprising  the  Grizzly  Giant  and  other 
magnificent  specimens  of  these  forest  kings.  There  are  also 
a  large  number  of  young  trees  in  both.  The  largest  are 
supposed  to  be  from  one  to  four  thousand  years  old.  I 
measured  several  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  base,  and  found 
the  Grizzly  Giant  to  be  72  feet  in  circumference;  Faithful 
Couple  67  feet;  Mariposa,  66  feet,  and  Lafayette,  80  feet. 
Most  of  the  trees  have  been  greatly  injured  by  forest  fires, 
losing  from  five  to  fifteen  feet  of  their  base  measurement. 

Escorted  by  the  veteran  mountaineer,  Stephen  Cunning- 
ham, Guardian  of  the  Grove,  mounted  on  tall,  gaunt  horses, 
whose  ancient  appearance  suggested  that  they  had  grownup 
with  the  trees  from  striplings,  we  rode  among  them  and 
through  one  fallen  monster,  by  stooping  just  a  little. 

Cunningham's  Knot-Hole.— "  This  tree,"  said  Cunning- 
ham, "has  lost  about  80  feet  of  its  base  by  a  forest  fire. 
Before  it  burned,  I  was  riding  through  it  with  a  friend, 
mounted  on  a  mule.  When  about  half  way,  we  saw  two 
horsemen  enter  at  the  other  end.  'How  shall  we  pass'?' 
anxiously  inquired  my  companion.  'I  will  show  you,' I 
said,  and,  urging  my  animal  ahead  a  few  steps  and  dis- 
mounting, clhnhed  oiU  through  a  knot-hole,  leading  my  mule 
after  me." 

We  next  rode  into  the  hollox/  "  Keystone,"  which  holds 
19  full-grown  horses  at  once.  Just  then  Washburn's  Yo- 
semite  Stage,  which  makes  daily  trips  to  the  gi'ove  from 
Clark's,  drove  up  with  a  full  load,  and  I  rode  with  tliem 
through  the  "  Wanona."  When  the  rear  of  the  long  six- 
seated  stage  was  inside  the  tree,  the  leaders  were  just  l)e- 
ginniug  their  exit. 

The  Mariposa  Spring.  A  spring  of  excellent  water  bursts 
forth  near  the  base  of  one  of  these  wonderful  trees,  a  littlo 
way  from  Cunningham's  cabin.  Some  San  Francisco  ladies 
engaged  in  temperance  work,  recently  visited  the  grove,  and 


RIDING    THROUOn  THE  WAWONA. 


THE  GREAT  WAWONA. 


139 


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CALIFORNIA. 


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after  drinking  at  the  spring  and  remarking  to  Cunningliara 

"  What  splendid  water,''  were  greatly- 
astonished  and  grieved  to  hear  him 
answer:  "Yes,  it  is  said  to  be  very 
good;  I  never  use  it  myself ,  except  for 
cooking  and  washing  purposes.'' 
There  are  several  other 

GROVES    OF    BIG    TREES  on 

the  westerA  slope  of  the  Sierras,  at 

elevations  ranging  from  4000  to  7000 

feet  above   the    sea,  the    Calaveras, 

Crane  Flat  and  Fresno  groves,  those 

between  King  and  Ka- 

weah     rivers    and     the 

north   and    south    forks 

of  the  Tale  River  being 

the  most  important. 

THE  CALAVERAS 
GROVE,  the  most  nor- 
theni,  is  situated  in  Cal- 
averas coxinty,  about  44 
miles  from  Milton,  the 
terminus  of  the  Stockton 
branch  of  the  C.  P.  R. 
CUNNINGHAM'S  LOO  CABIN,  MARIPOSA  GROVE.  R-  It  was  fii'st  discov- 
ered b}'  white  men  in  1850  and  has  since  been  visited 
by  tens  of  thousands  of  tourists  from  all  parts  of  tlie 
world.  There  are  90  trees,  from  15  to  50  feet  in  diameter, 
and  six  miles  south  another  gmve  containing  over  1300  of 
these  monster  forest  kings.  Both  tracts,  comprising  over  1000 
acres,  and  also  the  fine  hotel  at  the  Calaveras  Grove,  are 
owned  by  Mr.  James  L.  Sperry.  Tourists  will  find  good 
teams  at  the  St.  Julian  Livery  Stable,  Madera,  Dennis 
Conroy,  propi'ietor. 


Tim:  nro  trees. 


»© 


BAdE  OF  oniOINAL  BIG  TKKE.  CALAVERAS  GROVE. 


PIONEER  CAIIIN  (Roum  for  12  Men  InKlduJ 


p  11 


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142 


GALIFORNIA. 


Trip  No.  2. — From  San  FVancisco  to  Lake  Tahoe,  California, 
Carson  and  Virginia  City,  Nevada,  Lone  Pine,  Lidepen- 
dence  and  Hawley,  California ;  returning  via  Reno  and 
Truckee.    Round  trip,  1350  mUea. 

LAKE  TAHOE,  one  of  the  most  mognificeat  waters  in 
the  world,  lies  in  the  lap  of  the  Sierras,  6216  feet  above  the 
sea,  surrounded  by  a  grand  amphitheater  of  snow-capped 
peaks,  rising  from  2000  to  4000  feet  higher,  and  fine  forests 
of  pine,  fir  and  cedar. 


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TRUCKEE. 


148 


It  is  22  miles  in  lr>::a;th,  about  10  milos  wide,  uud  from  100 
to  1600  feet  iu  depth,  its  emerald  green  waters'of  such  orystal 
purity  and  transparency  that  the  fish  with  which  it  abounds 
may  be  distinctly  seen  eighty  feet  below  the  surface.  On 
its  beautiful  shores  are  situated  some  of  the  most  delir;!itful 
summer  resorts  of  the  Pacific  slope.  The  midsummer  air  is 
cool  and  exhilerating,  the  fishing  and  hunting  excellent,  the 
landscape  enchanting  and  the  sunsets  glorious. 

The  Trip  to  the  Lake.— The  ride  from  San  Francisco 
through  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  is  one  of  great  interest. 
First  across  the  bay  on  the  splendid  ferry  boat,  "Oakland,'' 
affording  fine  views  of  the  harbor,  islands  and  shipping ; 
then  taking  tlie  train  from  one  of  the  largest  and  most  mag- 
nificent depots  and  ferry  buildings  on  the  continent,  we  catch 
glimpses  of  the  beauty  of  Oakland,  and  32  miles  out,  at  Port 
Costa,  ride  on  to  the  monster  transfer  boat,  "Solano,"  the  won- 
der of  all  travelers,  420  feet  in  length,  116  feet  wide,  carrying 
48  loaded  cars  at  once.  Thence  60  miles  over  a  level,  beau- 
tiful country  of  extensive  farms,  vineyards  and  orchards, 
past  Army  Point,  Goodyear' s,  Suisun,  Gannon,  Elmira,  Ba- 
tavia,  Dixon  and  Davis  to  Sacramento,  at  7:30  p.  m.,  for  an 
excellent  supper  at  the  Silver  Palace  Dining  Parlor,  by 
Bernard  Steinman,  where  all  trains  stop  twenty  minutes. 
Then  across  the  plains  of  Sacramento,  through  the  pleasant 
villages  of  Bocklin,  Pino,  Newcastle,  Auburn,  Clipper  Gap 
and  Colfax,  iu  full  view  of  the  famous  Gold  Bun  and  Dutch 
Flat  mining  camps,  the  grandest  mountain  scenery.  Cape 
Horn  and  Donner  Lake,  and  over  the  Summit  to 


I 


TBUCKEE.  This,  the  first  objective  point  of  the 
tourist  bound  for  Lakes  Tahoe,  Donner,  Webber,  and  Inde- 
pendence, is  situated  on  the  Truckee  Biver,  at  an  elevation 
of  5500  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  very  extensive  and 
valuable  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  its  principal  resource. 
Founded  in  1864,  named  after  an  Indian  who  safely  guided  a 
pioneer  party  of  1844,  repeatedly  swept  by  fires,  destroying 
the  principal  portion,  at  an  aggregate  loss  of  nearly  a  million 
dollars,  it  has  steadily  increased  in  business,  until  a  single 
firm,  the  Truckee  Lumber  Company,  (Brickell  &  Kruger) 


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A  BUMMEB  SCENE  IN  THE  SIEHRAB. 


THE    TRUCKEK    HOTEL. 


145 


minufacture  upwards  of  25,000,000  feet  annually,  embracing 
besifles  building  material  of  all  kinds,  doors,  sash,  blinds 
and  furniture,  in  great  quantities. 

A  shingle  mill  cuts  35,000  every  twenty-hours  or  500  a 
minute. 

Over  50,000  cords  of  wood  are  exportcc'  annually,  mainly 
for  railway  use. 

It  is  estimated,  by  competent  judges,  that  the  available 
timber  of  the  Trackee  basin  exceeds  4,00;),OJO,000  feet,  or 
sufficient  to  last  for  upwards  of  a  hundred  years,  at  the 
present  rate  of  consumption,  about  50,000,000  feet  aunuallj'. 

Great  (quantities  of  the  purest  ice  is  harvested  on  the 
neighboring  lakes  and  streams,  nearly  half  a  million  dollars 
being  invested  in  this  importwut  iudusu  , . 

THE  TRUCKEE  HOTEL,  Stewart  McKay,  proprietor, 
(also  C.  P.  R.  R.  depot  and  gaueral  stage  office)  affords  ex- 
cellent accommodations.  There  is  a  good  restaurant  at- 
tached, for  the  conveniv -u'le  of  overland  passengers. 

The  train  arrived  at  4:55  a.m.,  and  at  7  o'clock,  we  were  off, 
by  Iloody's  stage,  for  Lake  Tahoe,  fourteen  miles  distant. 
This  is  no  ordinary  affair,  but  a  splendid  six-seated  easy 
coach,  ciinying  eighteen  passengers,  drawn  l)y  six  pov/Crful 
well-trained  horses,  skillfully  handled  by  a  veteran  driver. 
It  runs  twice  daily,  connecting  with  the  C.  P.  U.  R.  train  at 
Truckee,  and  the  steamer  Gov.  Stanford  at  the  lake. 

It  was  a  glorious  morning,  bright  and  cool— a  ruin  having 
fallen  the  previous  evening,  tempering  the  dry  mountain  air, 
fragrant  with  the  sweet  odor  of  the  pines,  to  a  delicious  ex- 
hilerating  freshness — and  also  etFectually  laying  the  dut  t  for 
several  miles. 

It  is  a  magnificent  drive,  following  up  the  dabhi.;^ 
Truckee,  a  fitting  outlet  for  the  world's  crowning  gem  of 
mountain  lakes.  From  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  width,  clear  as 
crystal,  pure  and  cold,  it  courses  swiftly  down  the  moun- 
tains, frequently  a  foaming  rapid,  but  interrupted  in  its 
headlong  descent  by  several  dams,  beginninjj  with  Von. 
Schmidt's,  near  the  lake.  The  valley  is  from  three-quarters  to 
a  mile  across,  the  mountains  generally  not  pr'  cipitons  or  very 


n 


146 


CALIFORNIA. 


high,  though  presenting  several  bold,  towering  granite  cliffs 
and  peaks  from  600  to  1800  feet  above  the  river.     The  most 


prominent  of  these,  from  their  resemblaucu  to  the  human 


TAHOE  CITY. 


147 


face,  are  known  as  the  " old  woman "  and  "old  man "  of  the 
mountains,  and  the  "Duke  of  Wellington."  Thick  forests 
of  red,  yellow  and  sugar  piue,  fir  and  cedar,  extend  the 
whole  way,  except  where  cleared  by  the  wood  and  lumbermen. 

The  great  saw-mill  companies  are  annually  cutting  mil- 
lions of  feet  of  the  choicest  trees,  having  already  advanced 
about  eight  miles  up  the  river  and  back  three  or  four  miles 
therefrom. 

The  lumber  flumes  extend  from  the  great  mills  at  Truckee 
to  the  farthest  camps,  and  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are 
grooved  with  log  chutes.  Down  the  former  are  run  vast 
quantities  of  wood  and  timber,  while  down  the  latter  im- 
mense logs  are  shot,  with  the  velocity  of  thunderbolts,  into 
the  river.  At  the  eight-mile  crossing,  a  five-fooL  monster 
plunged  in  as  we  passed,  striking  a  forerunner  fairly  end- 
wise, with  terrific  force,  and  the  noise  of  distant  thunder. 
Horse  railways,  and  long  ox-teams,  are  also  employed  in 
hauling  out  the  logs  from  over  the  summit  of  the  mountains. 

AROUND  LAKE  TAHOE  WITH  CAPT.  TODMAN. 

Gapt.  J.  A.  Todman,  of  Carson  City,  owns  the  excursion 
line  of  steamers  of  Lake  Tahoe.  It  comprises  at  present  the 
"Niagara "  and  " Governor  Stanford,"  which  will  be  super- 
ceded another  season  by  a  much  larger  and  finer  boat,  to 
accommodate  the  increasing  travel.  The  "  Niagara  "  makes 
daily  trips  around  the  lake  about  50  miles,  visiting  all  the 
points  of  interest  and  making  connections  with  stages  at 
Tahoe  City  for  Truckee,  and  at  Glenbrook  for  Carson 
City.     Beaching 

TAHOE  CITY,  a  pretty  village  on  the  west  shore  of  the 
lake,  containing  a  fine  commodious  hotel,  the  Grand  Central, 
by  A.  J.  Bayley,  several  stores,  bathing  and  boating  houses, 
we  find  the  little  steamer  waiting  for  us.  The  wonderful 
clearness  of  the  lake,  its  clean  cut,  pictures(]ue  shores  and 
the  grandeur  of  the  surrounding  mountains  at  once  absorb 
the  attention. 

Beginning  on  the  right  with  the  Rubicon  mountains, 
9287  feet  above  the  sea,  and  sweeping  the  horizon,  Mount 


m 


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148 


CALIFORNIA. 


Tallac,  9715  feet  in  height,  Mount  Ralston,  9140  feet,  Pyra- 
mid Peak,    10,052   feet.   Job's  Peak,    10,637   feet,   Genoa 


Peak,    9135  feet,    and  the   Siuninits   of   the  Tahoe  liange 


lAKK    TAHOE. 


149 


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150 


CALIFORNIA. 


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come  successively  in  view.  Down  their  steep,  forest- 
covered  sides  swiftly  descend  numerous  beautiful  streams, 
Ward's  Creek,  Blackwood's,  McKinney's  Phipp's,  Meek's 
Bay,  Lonely  Gulch,  Cascade  Falls,  Cascade  Lake,  Taylor, 
Little  Truckeo  River,  Big  Truckee  River,  Jim  Small's  Creek, 
Sevory  Cove  Creek,  Glenbrook,  Secret  Harbor,  Big,  Grif- 
fin's, Cornelian  Bay  and  Gordon's  Creek  comprising  the 
most  important. 

8UNNYSIDE.  Running  within  sight  of  the  extensive 
logging  camp  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  during  the 
period  of  its  construction,  about  four  miles  out  we  pass 
Sunnvside,  th<3  charming  summer  retreat  of  Mrs.  Hays,  of 
Sau  I<  rancisco,  and  other  wealthy  California  families. 

IDLEWILl),  occupying  a  delightful  spot  on  the  shore 
under  the  shadow  of  Eagle  Blu£f,  lies  about  two  miles  be- 
yond. This  is  the  summer  resort  of  Mrs.  E.  B.  Crocker,  of 
Sacramento.  The  highest  mountain  peak  in  the  distant 
background  is  known  as  Tinker's  Knob.      Then  we  land  at 

McKINNEY'S,  "The  Hunters'  Home,"  nine  miles  from 
Tahoe  City,  a  handsome  village  of  eighteen  pretty  brown 
cottages,  situated  in  a  beautiful  pine  grove  immediately  on 
the  shore  of  the  lake.  This  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
mountain  summer  resorts  of  the  whole  Sierra  region,  aflford- 
ing  excellent  accommodations  for  sixty  guests.  Game 
abounds,  the  trout  fishing  is  excellent,  the  boating  splendid 
and  everybody  made  to  feel  quite  at  home  by  the  genial 
host,  John  McKinney.  A  stage  run«  from  thence  ten  miles 
to  the  Rubicon  Mineral  Springs.  The  old  Georgetown  trail 
also  reaches  the  lake  here. 


PHIPPS',  for  many  years  the  home  and  hunting-ground 
of  the  veteran  William  Phipps,  lies  just  beyond  Sugar  Pine 
Point,  about  two  miles  from  McKinney's.  At  Saxton's  log- 
ging camp  near  by,  a  wagon  loaded  with  five  great  logs, 
drawn  by  seven  yoke  of  ox*^!,  was  standinj^  on  the  shove  of 
the  lake. 


LOAD    OF  SAW  LOGS. 


151 


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152 


CALIFORNIA. 


EMERALD  BAY.    The  shores  of  Lake  Tahoe  are  in- 
dented with  boautifnl  bays,  Crystal,  Cornelian,  Meeks  and 


Emerald,  the  latter  being  the  largest  and  most  frequented. 
It  is  about  18  miles  from  Tahoe  City,  three  miles  long,  and 


TALLAO. 


1B8 


about  half  a  mile  in  width.  Ben  HoUaday  built  a  summer 
residence  here,  which  his  family  occupied  until  it  was  burned 
in  1879. 

Capt.  Dick,  an  eccentric  old  English  sailor,  chose  this 
wild  mountain  retreat  for  his  home,  built  a  cabin,  and  chis- 
eled out  a  tomb  in  the  solid  rock,  on  the  lonely  rock-bound 
island  near  the  entrance.  Falling  overboard,  while  intoxi- 
cated. Lake  Tabpe,  which  it  is  said,  never  gives  up  its  dead, 
became  his  last  resting-place,  instead  of  the  grave  he  had 
prepared. 

TALLA.C.  Soon  we  sight  the  handsome  white  hotel 
building  and  cottages  of  Tallac,  occupying  a  charming  situa- 
tion, in  a  splendid  grove  of  pine,  tamrack  and  poplar,  on 
the  shore  of  the  lake,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Tallac.  E.  J. 
Baldwin,  owner  of  the  magnificent  Baldwin  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, has  made  very  extensive  and  complete  improve- 
ments here,  his  fine  Hotel  Tallac  and  cottages  affording  first- 
class  accommodations  for  150  guests.  Capt.  Gordon,  the 
popular  manager,  and  a  throng  of  happy  people,  met  us  at 
the  landing.  Tallac  lies  central  amidst  the  grandest  scenery 
and  the  best  sporting  grounds  of  Lake  Tahoe.  From  the 
summit  of  the  back  lying  mountains,  a  dozen  lakes  are 
visible.  Fallen  Leaf  Lake,  Echo,  Wright's,  Potter's,  Grass, 
Cascade,  Gilmore  Lake,  and  others,  from  6500  to  8400  feet 
above  the  sea. 

The  Glen  Alpine  Mineral  Springs — soda,  iron  and  sulphur, 
are  situated  seven  miles  from  Tallac. 

Five  miles  further  brings  us  to 

ROWLAND'S,  a  pleasant  village  of  hotels,  stores  and 
farm-houses,  situated  in  a  fine  grove  of  pines  near  the  east 
end  of  the  lake,  surrounded  by  an  extensive  body  of  grazing 
and  meadow  lands,  occupied  by  dairymen.  Lake  Valley, 
about  six  miles  wide,  extending  back  into  the  mountains  ton 
or  twelve  miles,  affords  summer  pasturage  for  1800  cows. 

The  meadows  are  full  of  geese  and  ducks  during  the 
fall  and  winter  months. 

A  stage  iTins  twice  a  week  from  Rowland's  to  Placei*ville. 


t. 


{ 


164 


CALIFOHNIA. 


Proceeding,  we  no  longer  skirt  the  shore  of  the  lake,  but 
pursue  a  direct  course  to 

GLENBROOK,  about  thirteen  miles  from   Rowland's, 


CABSON   CITY. 


166 


and  the  same  distance  from  Tahoe  City.  En  route,  we  look 
into  the  mouth  of  the  cave  at  Cavo  Uock.  aud  trace  out  tho 
Bhaksperian  features  of  Shakspoar  Rock — from  the  summit 
of  which  a  young  girl,  Carrie  Rii   ,  fell  a  few  years  ago. 

Glenbrook  is  a  very  pretty  village,  and  the  principal  busi- 
ness center  of  Lake  Tahoe.  It  lies  in  Nevada,  we  having 
crossed  the  line  from  California  about  four  miles  out  from 
Rowland's.  Here  is  a  good  hotel,  the  Lake  Shore  House, 
W.  A.  B.  Cobb,  proprietor,  where  all  stage  and  steamer  excur- 
sionists stop  for  meals;  a  store,  by  J.  M.  Short,  billiard  hall, 
by  F.  S.  Jellerson,  and  three  large  saw-mills,  owned  by  Bliss 
•fe  Yorrington,  the  wealthiest  and  most  enterprising  business 
firm  of  the  interior.  Their  narrow  gauge  railway  carries  the 
lumber  to  the  summit,  a  thousand  feet  above  the  lake, 
whence  it  and  immense  quantities  of  wood,  are  run  in  a 
great  water-flume,  upwards  of  thirty  miles  in  length  with  its 
feeders,  to  their  extensive  yards  at  Carson  Citv,  fourteen 
miles  distant. 


BY  STAGE  TO  OARRON. 

There  are  two  daily  lines  of  good  stages,  J.M.  Benton's 
and  Keyser  &  Elrod's,  which  run  to  Carson  City  upon 
the  arrival  of  the  steamer  at  Glenbrook.  It  is  a  splendid 
ride  for  several  miles  up  the  pictures(iue  Glenbrook,  over 
the  Summit  to  Spooner's  old  stage  station,  down  past  the 
little  inn  known  as  Saints  Rest,  by  the  oldest  mill  in  Neva- 
da, across  Clear  Creek,  through  the  Devil's  Gate  into  Car- 
son Valley. 

Here  Jerry  Bruso,  the  excellent  driver  of  Benton's  stage, 
points  out  a  cluster  of  poplars  where  Lucky  Bill  was  hung 
a  few  years  ago  by  the  Vigilantes  for  murdering  and  robbing 
a  Frenchman  from  whom  he  had  purchased  a  band  of  cattle. 


CARSON  CITY,  the  Capital  of  Nevada,  the  location 
of  the  U.  S.  Mint,  State  Penitentiary  and  also  of  the 
wonderftal  Carson  Foot  Prints,  will  be  of  great  interest  to 
the  tourist.  It  is  situated  31  miles  from  Reno,  on  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  Railroad,  and  21  miles  from 


166 


VAUmRNIA. 


VIRGINIA.  CITY.  Taking  tho  truiu  at  CaiHon,  I  pro- 
ceed to  tliis  remarkable  City  of  the  Desert,  past  a  succession 
of  the  greatest  mines,  quartz  mills  and  mining  towns  in  the 
New  World.  I  was  fortunate  in  riding  with  an  intelligent 
practical  minor  of  14  years'  experience  at  Virginia  City,  who 
knew  every  mine,  mill  and  shaft  thoroughly.  First  came 
Empire  City,  then  the  Brunswick  56-stamp  silver  quartz 
mill,  next  the  Eureka  60-stamp,  the  Vivian  IG-stiimp,  San 
Diego  30-stamp,  all  run  by  water  from  tho  Carson  River. 
Here  we  leave  the  river,  and  ascending  a  grade  of  from  116 
to  122  feet  to  the  mile,  look  down  on-  the  right  upon  Silver 
City,  American  Flat  and  the  wonderfial  city  of  Gold  Hill. 
The  bald  mountains  are  now  honey-combed  in  all  directions 
with  the  mines  and  shafts  which  have  poured  out  their  mil- 
lions to  enrich  the  few  and  rob  tens  of  thousands  of  un- 
fortunate speculators.  As  rapidly  as  I  can  write  wo  pass 
tho  Delaware,  Baltimore,  Knickerbocker,  Now  York,  Cal- 
edonia, Alta,  Justice,  Overman,  Belcher,  Crown  Point,  Yel- 
low Jacket  group,  Imperial,  Ward,  Savage,  Cholhir,  Potosi, 
Hale  it  Norcross,  Gould  <fe  Curry,  Consolidated  Virginia, 
California,  Ophir,  Mexican,  Union,  Sierra  Nevada  and 
Utah  Mines,  and  others  too  numerous  to  mention.  Of 
these  the  Consolidated  Virginia,  California,  Cr(»wn  Point, 
Gould  &  Curry,  Hale  &  Norcross  and  Belcher  have  boon 
wonderfully  rich,  others  have  paid  well,  but  none  are  now 
returning  dividends. 

Virginia  City  is  not  therefore  in  a  very  flourishing  con- 
dition at  present,  but  hopeful  that  future  developments  will 
bring  back  her  former  prosperity.  The  city  is  said  to  be 
slowly  sliding  down  the  mountains,  being  undermined  by 
the  numerous  mining  shafts  and  ttinnels.  The  great  Corn- 
stock  mines,  now  worked  to  a  depth  of  3100  feet,  will  richly 
repay  a  visit.  Virginia  City  has  a  magnificent  six-story 
hotel,  complete  in  all  its  appointments,  A.  Hanak,  pro- 
prietor. 


Exauiisfoys  from  sax  fuanvisvo. 


Ibi 


Tnir  No.  2,  Continued.— iPVow  the  Mourui  House,  Nevcula,  to 
OiveuH  Lake,  California,  via  Carson  and  Colorado  Railroad; 
U.  M.  Yerrinfjton,  President  and  Super intetidcnt;  D.  A, 
Bender,  General  Freight  and  Passenyer  Agent. 

The  Mound  House,  11  miles  from  Virginia  City,  is  the 
junction  of  tlio  Carson  and  Colorado,  witii  the  Virginia  and 
Truckoo  Railroad.  The  Mound  House  is  so  called  from 
having  been  built  near  a  great  earth  mound.  After  passing 
through  several  hands  and  being  removed  from  its  original 
site,  it  is  now  owned  by  Mrs.  Maggie  Coburn  and  converted 
into  a  comfortable  lodging  house.  From  this  point  the  Car- 
son and  Colorado  Railroad  Company  have  built  and  equipped 
an  excellent  narrow-guage  railway,  296  miles  south  to  Owens 
Lake,  Inyo  county,  about  100  miles  north  of  Mojave,  on  the 
Southern  Pacitic,  It  traverses  lengthwise  that  great  stret<'h 
of  country  lying  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierras,  em- 
bracing Esmeralda  County,  Nevada,  and  Inyo  County,  Cal- 
ifornia. It  is  rich  in  silver,  gold  and  copper,  contains 
numerous  deposits  of  salt,  borax  and  sulphur,  and  a  much 
greater  extent  of  lands  capaVle  of  cultivation  than  is  gen- 
erally supposed.  Although  the  average  rainfall  is  the  min- 
imum found  in  any  portion  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
general  aspect  of  the  country  barren  and  forbidding,  desti- 
tute of  timber  and  foliage,  except  a  scattering  growth  of 
stunted  pinion  pine  on  the  mountains,  and  cottonwood  and 
willow  along  the  water-cour.ses,  a  lino  sedimentary  soil  pre- 
vails in  the  valleys,  which  wherever  irrigated,  produces 
abundant  cro})s  of  grain  and  fruit  of  all  kinds. 

Following  down  the  Carson  River  for  about  25  miles, 
througli  the  old  mining  town  of  Dayton,  in  sight  of  the  great 
Sutro  Tunnel  and  old  Fort  Churchill,  the  train  stops  for  a 
good  dinner  at 

The  Wauuska  House,  by  E.  P.  Lovejoy,  Wabuska. 
From  thence  the  road  runs  along  the  eastern  shore  of 
Walkers  Lake,  through  the  Schurz  Piute  Indian  Reservation 
to  Hawthorne,  100  miles  from  the  Mound  House  and  seven 
miles  from  the  rich  Mount  Corey  mines.  A  daily  stage  runs 
from  thence  to  Bodie,  37  miles,  and  to  the  other  principal  min- 


,?.*{, 


i 


158 


GALIFOBNIA. 


ing  towns  of  Mono  county.  Luning,  25  Tniles  farther,  is  the 
center  of  the  Santa  Fe  mining  district,  rich  in  silver  and 
copper.  Near  the  Soda  Springs  Station,  12  miles  beyond, 
there  are  hot  soda  springs  and  bathing  facilities.  The  Soda 
Springs  House,  by  J.  Prescott  Davis,  affords  good  hotel  ao- 
commcdationti.  Dunlap's  Copper  Mine,  reported  very  rich, 
is  15  mi!es  distant. 

From  Bellville  a  branch  runs  eight  miles  to  Candelaria ,  in 
the  Garfield  mining  district,  where  the  most  productive 
mi  aos  in  this  sectloii  are  located,  the  Indian  Queen,  North 
Edit,  Lottie,  Lancashire  and  others.  U.  S.  Mail  stages  run 
from  Candelaria  to  Columbus,  Silver  Peak,  Montezuma, 
Alida  y  alley,  Gold  Mountain  and  other  points. 

Now  we  ascend  the  White  Mountains  by  an  admirable 
grade,  from  120  to  134  feet  to  the  mile,  and  then  descend 
into  the  great  Owens  River  Valley  of  Inyo  County. 

INYO  COUNTY  comprises  an  area  of  12,000  square 
miL;j  of  the  most  diversified  surface  in  America,  ranging 
from  the  summit  of  Mount  Whitney,  1500  feet  above  the 
sea,  to  Death  Valley,  400  feet  below.  It  is  traversed  by  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  Alabama,  Inyo,  White,  Ubehaba,  Argus, 
Calico  and  Telescope  mountains,  and  embraces  besides  the 
great  Owens  River-  Valley,  Eureka,  Deep,  Spring,  Round, 
Sa]'r.e  Panamint,  Death  and  other  valleys.  Its  principal  settle- 
mentsare  Round  Valley,  Bishop  Creek,  Big  Pine,  Indepen- 
dence, Olancha,  Swansea, CerroGci'do,  Darwin,  CampReilley 
and  Panamint.  Bishop  Creek,  Union,  Russ,  Big  Pine,  Fish 
Springs,  Kearsage,  Alabama.  Old  Coso,  Slate  Range,  Lee, 
Argus  Range,  Granite,  Deep  Spring,  Sylvania,  Waucoba, 
Ubeheba,  Boveridge,  Swansea,  Cerro  Goido,  Snow's  Canon, 
Lone  Pine,  Look  Out,  Wild  Rose  and  Saratoga  are  the  most 
important  mining  districts.  They  contain  gold,  silver,  lead, 
antimouy,  zinc,  bismuth,  Ji'on,  sulphur,  soda,  borax,  salt,  pot- 
ash, marble,  gypsum,  asbestos,  mica,  burr-stone,  Sierra 
Nevada  granite,  gneiss  hikI  limestone.  It  is  estimated  that 
there  are  12,000  acres  of  borax,  soda  and  saliiie  lauds.  The 
county  has  yielded  about  *14, 000,000  M'orth  of  precious  min- 
erals, chiefly  silvor,  since  18G2.  The  total  population  is 
only  3000. 


OWENS    VALLEY. 


159 


OWENS  VALLEY,  which  embraces  the  largest  portion 
of  this  interior  country  adapted  to  agriculture,  is  about  90 
miles  in  length  and  from  5  to  8  miles  in  width,  bounded  by 
the  Sierras  on  the  west  and  the  White  mountains  on  the 
east.  The  Owei:^  River,  r,  considerable  stream  rising  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada  moantains,  flows  through  it  into  Owens  Lake. 
Bishop,  Big,  Pine  and  Oak  Creeks,  all  having  sources  in 
the  Sierras,  are  its  principal  tributaries. 

The  valley  is  about  459B  feet  above  the  sea,  its  soil  a 
fine  alluvial,  wonderfully  productive  of  all  kinds  of  grains, 
fruits  and  roots.  The  water  is  good,  and  obtained  at  a  depth 
of  from  12  to  15  feet  from  the  surface.  Average  tem[)era- 
ture,  about  59^;  coldest,  11  below;  hottest,  112  above  zero. 
There  is  a  light  fall  of  snow  in  winter,  generally  not  exceed- 
ing six  inches,  and  remaining  but  a  short  time. 


BISHOP  CREEK  is  the  largest  settlement,  containing 
about  1000  people  and  farming  by  irrigation  about  8000 
acres.  Most  of  the  heads  of  families  came  here  in  1861-2. 
They  had  several  severe  battles  with  the  Piutes,  at  consider- 
able loss  of  life  and  property,  and  were  badly  shaken  up  by 
the  earthquake  of  1872,  but  witli  true  American  giit  held  on 
to  their  homes  through  these  iroublesome  times,  to  the  ad- 
vent of  the  railway,  and  the  beginning  of  a  new  era  of  devel- 
opment. By  the  economical  utilization  of  the  waters  of  Owens 
River  and  tributary  streams  now  running  to  waste  or  lost  by 
evaporation  and  absorption,  at  least  150,000  acres  of  the  val- 
ley could  bo  brought  under  profitable  cultivation,  supporting 
a  large  i»opulation. 

P,omaining  over  night  at  Bishop  Creek,  where  there  are 
good  accommodations,  at  the  Railroad  House,  Ijy  Mrs.  D. 
B.  Russell,  and  the  Owens'  Valley  House,  by  Mr.  Burton 
MoOee,  the  following  morning  I  rode  to  the  end  of  the 
track,  at  Hawley,  Owens  Lake,  about  seventy-two  miles 
distant. 

En  route,  we  passed  tluougii  Miller,  Tibbetts,  Inde- 
pend  nci>,  Lon«i  Pino  and  Swans«Mi.  The  violent  eartlupiako 
of  lb/2  spent  its  greatest  force  at  Lone  P>ne,  killing  twenty- 
five  people      The  valley  for  a  long  distance  dropped  down 


I 


160  CALIFORNIA. 

about  twenty  feet,    the  perpendicular  wall    then    formed 
being  plainly  seen  from  the  train. 

The  Grandest  Mountain  Views  afforded  by  the  entirn 
Sierra  Nevada  Rauge  are  obtained  from  near  Independence. 
Mount  Whitney  and  the  neighboring  chain  of  peaks,  from 
12,000  to  15,000  feet  above  the  sea,  rise  precipitous,  bare 
and  sharply  outlined,  from  6000  to  10,000  feet  above  the 
valley.  There  is  a  good  horseback  trail  from  Lone  Pine  to 
the  summit  <jf  Mount  Whitne}',  about  fifty  miles — the  ascent 
requiring  four  days  for  the  round  trip. 

A  Bath  in  Owens  Lake. — Owens  Lake  is  the  mo^-t  re- 
markable body  of  mineral  water  on  the  continent.  5'.  i^ 
about  seventeen  mvles  long,  nine  miles  wide  and  fifty  leet 
deep,  and  though  the  reservoir  of  Owens  River,  Geoi'ge, 
Lone  Pine,  Cottonwood  and  Ash  Creeks,  carrying  great 
bodies  of  fresh  mountain  water,  shows  the  following  analy- 
sis: 

Sijecitio  (gravity 1.86 

100  literH— 2(>.4;'2  gals.  oouttiiiiH: 

Potassiiuu  sulphate   (yxA.Ml 

Sodivuu  suliihate '.)'29.07 

"      carbonate •2440.80 

chloride 2328.;K) 

Silica  acid 17.21 

63(5.025 
I  fcniu<i  the  borders  for  several  rods  from  the  water 
thickly  cruoted  witli  these  sodas  and  salts,  which  cut  the 
feet  like  sharp  st(jnes.  Reaching  the  shore,  I  waded 
through  a  yellow,  sickly  scum  of  the  consistency  of  soft 
soap,  for  sin'eral  yards.  Then  came  a  wiurow  of  millions  of 
dead  flies,  nearly  a  rod  in  width.  I  looked  up  and  down  the 
lake,  and  seeing  that  they  evidently  extended  all  the  way 
round,  mustered  courage  to  plunge  through.  It  certainly 
possesses  very  rciuiirkablo  cleansing  properties,  whatever 
may  bo  its  other  virtues.  There  are  convenient  fresh  water 
springs  on  the  shore,  in  which  the  natives  generally  wash 
after  liathing  in  the  bike. 

I  n^turned    via    Reno,   where  there  are   excellent  hotel 
accommodations — at  the  Dejiot  Hotel,  by  VV.  R.  Chamber- 


EXCURSIOm    FROM   SAN   FRANCISCO. 


161 


lain,  also  at  the  Palace  Hotel,  by  Perkins  A  White,  oppo- 
site, and  livery  at  the  Reno  Livery,  by  Dean  &;  Wilson, 
owners  of  the  Nevada  Theatre  Building.  All  trains  stop  here 
thirty  minutes. 

TliU'  No.  3 — From  Snu  Francisco  to  Lakes  T'thoe,  Dormer,  Tn- 
dependcnceand  Webber,  C(dif'ornm.   Hound  trip,  650  miles. 

DONNER  LAKE,  that  charming  body  of  water  of  which 
you  get  glira])ses  through  tliose  provoking  snow-sheds,  while 
riding  over  the  summit — is  situated  about  three  miles  from 
Truckee,  on  the  Central  Pacific  liailway,  and  274  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  It  is  about  three  miles  long,  one  and  a  half 
miles  in  width,  and  250  feet  in  depth,  with  handsome  grav- 
elly shores,  surrounded  by  a  fine  forest  of  pine,  fir  and 
tararack.  Its  remarkable  beauty  alone  would  have  given  it 
a  first  place  among  the  lake  gems  of  the  Sierras,  but  it  has 
been  immortalized  by  the  terrible  fate  of  the  Donner*  party, 
thirty-four  of  Avhom  died  from  starvation  near  its  shores,  in 
1840,  and  pIso  by  the  paintings  of  Bierstadt. 

Reaching  Truckee  en  route,  though  at  the  early  hour  of 
4:51/  A.M.,  the  irrepressible  .imall  boy,  of  an  empiiringmind, 
w:i3  at  the  station.  Pointing  to  Major  Ben  Truman's  excel- 
lent Tourists'  Guide,  he  exclaimed,  "  Got  Peck's  Bad  Eoy  ?" 
When  I  told  him  that,  though  I  hadn't  that  wondorful  book, 
I  knew  very  well  the  man  who  wrote  it,  he  became  much  in- 
terested, and  kindly  showed  ine  tlie  way  to  the  lake. 

The  road  is  a  good  one,  bearing  westward  from  the  town, 
skirting  the  green  meadows,  where  the  snow-bound  Donner 
party,  wrapped  in  the  cold  white  shrouds  of  the  merciless 
storm-king,  lay  down  for  their  final  rest.  Their  last  ca.'njjing 
place,  the  stumps  of  the  trees  they  had  cut  for  fuel,  and 
their  cabins,  were  pointed  out  to  me.  One  of  the  survivors, 
Mrs.  Lewis,  daughter  of  Mr.  Reed,  told  mo  recently  that  the 
snow  was  over  50  feet  in  depth,  and  that  they  did  not  know 
of  the  existence  of  Donner  Lake. 

Soon  after  reat-hitig  the  Hue  grove  on  the  eastern  shore, 
the  rising  sun,  first  gilding  the  summits  of  the  mountains, 


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Ihe  well-known  tarlllUnt  iiiitbor  Hiid  lawyer  uf  Tnickt'i',  ('iil. 


162                                          OALIFOJUNIA. 

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'  BBWIMBBIBHbI!  1 1 1  iWl  fflwii 

Riding  oiit  about  a  mile,  \\v  reiiched  "Eelio  Hook,"  a 

ud 

1 

INDEPENDENCE  LAKE. 


163 


shouting  a  loud  good  morning,  three  responses  were  dis- 
tinctly heard. 

The  lake  freezes  from  one  to  three  feet  thick  in  winter,  and 
then  eclipses  all  of  the  artificial  skating  rinks  in  the  world. 

Returning  to  Truckee,  I  was  presented  by  the  author, 
Mr.  W.  H.  Edwards,  editor  of  the  Truclcee  Republican,  with 
Edwards'  Tourists'  Guide  of  the  Truckoe  Basin,  a  complete 
and  excellent  description  of  this  interesting  rogu>n,  finely  il- 
lustrated by  excellent  view^s  taken  by  Mr.  H.  K.  Gage,  of 
Truckee,  several  of  which,  by  kind  permission,  appear  in 
this  work. 

From  Truckee  I  proceeded  to  Independence  Lake,  16 
miles  distant,  by  the  Sierraville  Stage  Line,  G.  Q.  Buxton, 
proprietor,  which  makes  tri-weekly  ti-ips  to  Eureka  Mills, 
50  miles,  via  Webber  Lake,  Sierra  Valley  and  Jameson's 
City,  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays  and  Saturdays,  returning 
alternate  days.  The  previous  evening  the  stage  was  stopped 
by  two  masked  men,  twelve  miles  from  Truckee,  and  robbed 
of  about  a  thousand  dollars.  The  driver  told  me  that  one 
of  the  passengers  w^s  a  Methodist  minister,  who  for  a  won- 
der had  some  $30  in  his  pocket.  When  the  robbers  came 
to  him  he  remarked,  us  though  of  course  the  announcement 
would  secure  him  a  pass-by : 

"  lam  a  Methodist  mlniste):" 

"Ha!  ha!  Just  the  mt\n  we  are  after;  fork  over,'  replied 
the  robber. 

But  they  were  not  entin-ly  heartless.  One  passenger, 
who  had  some  money  but  no  courage,  was  so  overcome  witli 
fear  that  he  lay  back  on  his  seat,  pale  as  a  ghost.  Looking 
at  him,  the  leader  of  the  gang  said:  "That  fellow's  sick;  let 
him  go."    An  old  lady  was  also  permitted  tc  go  unsearched. 


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INDEPENDENCE  LAKE  is  situated  about  IG  miles 
northeast  of  Truckee,  (5700  feet  above  the  sea,  in  the  midst 
of  a  lino  forest  of  tamrack,  fir  and  pine. 

Mount  Lola  rises  to  the  height  of  1100  foet,  four  miles 
to  the  northward.  Both  the  lake  mid  this  mountain  wore 
nanu'd  on  the  4th  of  July,  1853,  the  former  in  honor  of  our 
National  birthday,  and  the  latter  from  Lola  Montez,  or  the 


■ 


164 


CALIFORNIA. 


"  Countess  of  Lacdsfeldt,"  who  was  present  at  the  lauaohing 
of  a  vessel  on  tho  lake  at  that  date. 

It  is  a  most  beautiful  body  of  water,  clear  as  crystal, 
about  three  miles  in  length,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide 
and  700  feet  in  depth.  Like  all  these  mountain  lakes,  it  is 
full  of  splendid  trout,  and  the  neighboring  woods  abound 
with  game,  'jieat  and  small — bear,  deer,  grouse,  etc.  From 
June  until  October  it  is  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  the 
coast.  A  comfortable  hotel  is  kept  open  during  the  season. 
A.  W.  Sisson,  of  San  Francisco,  is  the  owner  of  the  prop- 
erty. 

WEBBER  LAKE.  A  two  hours'  walk  brought  me  to  the 
aliore  of  Webber  Lake.  It  lie«  26  miles  northwest  of  Truckee, 
♦3925  feet  above  tho  sea,  and  is  about  one  mile  in  length, 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  85  feet  deep.  Its  shores 
are  gravelly  and  clean,  bordered  by  pleasant  groves  of  tam- 
rack  and  pine,  with  a  tine  green  meadow  opening  on  the 
south  side.  It  is  not  only  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
these  mountain  lakes,  but  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  grand- 
est scenery.  White  Rock  Peak  on  the  southeast.  Webber 
P  jak  on  tho  west  and  Observation  Point  on  tho  north,  rear 
their  heads  from  2500  to  3000  feet  above  the  surface. 

Three-quarters  of  a  mile  below,  tho  Little  Truckee 
River,  its  outlet,  dashes  down  a  precipice  over  a  hundred 
feet,  and  thonce  flows  through  a  wild,  rock-bound  gorge. 

Tho  chiirniing  Lake  of  the  Woods  is  only  a  mile  distant, 
570  feet  above.  Tho  trout  fishing  and  hunting  are  unsur- 
passed anywhere  in  this  region. 

There  is  a  good  hotel  situated  in  a  tine  grove  of  tamrack 
on  the  north  sliore,  on  the  old  Hennessey  Pass  Road,  open 
from  May  until  winter. 

Trip  No.  4.  Fi'():ti  San  Frini4-isci>  to  Yntnn,  Arizomi,  via 
Ce}draJ  ami  Southern  Pavilu:  Hailwat/,  Oakland,  Lathvo[), 
Mojavc,    Los   Aiiyelfis  ami  CoUon.       Round  trip,    1'462 


Fort  Yumrt  is  situated  in  San  Diego  County,  California, 
on  the  (1(i|(»rado  River,  about  150  miles  from  its  mouth —730 
miles,  by  rail,  from  San  Francisco.     The  town  of  Yuma  lies 


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166 


CALIFORNIA. 


on  the  opposite,  or  east  bank  of  the  river,  in  Arizona.  Be- 
fore the  euustruction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  it  was 
the  chief  point  of  distribution  of  supplies  for  the  military 
posts  of  this  region,  and  commanded  its  principal  trade. 
The  climate,  though  extremely  hot  during  the  mid- summer 
months,  is  very  healthy,  free  from  all  malaria,  and  one  of 
the  most  enjoyable  in  the  Union  from  September  until  May. 
The  sun  shines  almost  perpetually,  the  entire  annual  rain- 
fall rarely  exceeding  four  inches.  It  is  witho'  t  doubt  one 
of  the  best  climates  in  the  world  for  consumptives  and 
astlimatics. 


11 


THE  SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  HOTEL,  under  the  ex- 
cellent management  of  Mr.  H.  W.  Weaver,  offers  first-class 
accommodations.  Mr.  Weaver  is  also  the  proprietor  of  the 
fine  hotel  at  India,  120  miles  west  of  Yuma,  in  the  Coquilla 
Valley,  100  feet  below  the  sea.  The  Colorado  River 
is  a  considerable  stream,  carrying  a  large  volume  of  the 
purest  water,  and  navigable,  ten  months  in  the  year,  to  the 
mouth  of  Virgin  River,  440  miles  from  Yuma.  Castle 
Dome,  Picacho,  Norton's  Landing,  Ehrenberg,  Aubrey, 
Needles,  Fort  Mojave  and  El  Dorado  Canon  are  the  princi- 
pal landings.  The  river  is  highest  in  December  and  Janu- 
ary and  June  and  July.  The  Cocopah,  Yumas,  Chemehue- 
vis,  Mojave,  Pahutes  and  Coweas  Indians  live  upon  it. 
Those  seen  at  Yuma  were  tall,  well  formed  and  nearly 
naked.  Captain  Polhamus,  who  has  run  steamers  on  the 
Colorado  since  1856,  informed  me  that  the  tide  ebbs  and 
flows  thirty-two  feet  at  its  mouth,  coming  in  with  a  loud 
roar,  backing  up  its  waters  for  sixty  miles,  overflowing  an 
extonsive  delta,  which,  by  dyking,  might  be  utilized  for  the 
cultivation  of  rice. 

THE  ROUTE  TO  YUMA 

Is  one  of  great  interest,  affbr  ling  in  succession 
glimpses  of  the  most  beautiful  and  desolate  portions  of  the 
Golden  State.  It  traverses  the  whole  length  of  the  San 
Joaquin  Valley,  the  most  extensive  on  the  Pacific  slope, 
crosses  the  Tehachapi  Mountains,  through  the  remarkable 


EXCURSIONS   FBOM  SAN   FRANCISCO. 


167 


railway  loop,  runs  along  tho  borders  of  the  Mojave  Desert, 
then  through  the  wild  pass  of  Solodad  and  the  great  San 
Fernando  Tunnel  to  Los  Angeles  and  the  beautiful  valley  of 
orange  groves  and  vineyards,  thence  through  the  famous 
San  Gabriel  Valley,  near  Riverside  and  San  Bernardino, 
across  200  miles  of  the  Colorado  Desert,  via  the  Pass  of  San 
Gorgonio. 

THE  SOUTHERN  PACIFIC   RAILROAD  HOTEL, 

Los  Angeles,  H.  A.  Clawson,  proprietor,  is  a  large,  first- 
class  establishment,  affording  excellent  accommodations  for 
those  who  desire  to  stop  over  to  see  Los  Angeles  and  the 
neighboring  places  and  points  of  intorest.  Street  cars  run 
every  7^  minutes  to  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  railway  trains 
leave  daily  for  Santa  Monica,  Willmore  City,  Fulton,  Wells, 
Anaheim,  San  Gabriel,  Riverside,  etc.,  etc. 

The  Southern  Hotel,  W.  B.  Salmon,  proprietor,  is  situ- 
ated at  648,  650  and  652  San  Fernando  street,  opposite  the 
new  C.  P.  R.  R.  depot. 

Trip  No.  5. — Ffom  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Ana,  Ims  Angeles 
Connti/,  CaUfornia,  Inj  the  Southern  Pacijic  Railroad,  re- 
turning via  Mojave  and  the  Needles,  on  the  Colorado  River. 
Round  inp,  1512  miles. 

Having  already  described  the  general  features  of  the 
country  from  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Ana,  in  Los  Angeles 
County,  by  the  overland  route,  it  remains  to  briefly  notice 
that  stretch  of  240  miles  of  barren  waste  extending  from  Mo- 
jave to  the  Needles.  The  great  Colorado  Desert  lies  mainlj' 
in  Eastern  San  Diego,  San  Bernardino  and  Kern  Counties, 
California,  and  considered  as  a  whole  is  a  worthless  region, 
except  for  its  mineral  resources.  These  are  great,  and  the 
discoveries  and  developments  of  tho  last  few  months  along 
the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  from  Mojave  eastward  are  of 
the  most  promising  character.     At 

Waterman's,  Waterman  &  Porter  own  a  rich  silver  mine 
and  operate  a  ten-stamp  quartz  mill. 

Daooett,  ton  miles  beyond,  is  seven  miles  sotith  of  the  rich 


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168 


(!AUhX)RNIA. 


Gulico  silver  miueH,  Jiutl  ueur  t.ho  very  promising  OrJ  Mouu- 
taiu  and  Luvu  lied  silver,  copper  tuid  gold  discoveries. 

The  Kaiijioad  Hotel,  of  Daggett,  by  V.  Van  Breisen, 
aftbrds  good  accommodations. 

Extensive  Lava  Beds  are  now  seen  on  the  right  for  a 
long  distance. 

About  two  miles  from  Amboy  a  magnificent  volcanic 
crater,  abont  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  rises  like 
a  vast  amphitheater,  500  or  600  feet  above  the  general  level 
of  the  desert. 

NEEDIiES  is  situated  near  the  west  bank  of  the  Colorado 
River,  in  San  Bernardino  Co.,  Cal.,  G22  miles  southeast  of 
San  Francisco.  It  derives  its  name  from  three  sharp  peaks 
of  the  Wallupa  range  of  mountains,  about  20  miles  distant, 
in  Arizona. 

Here  the  Southern  Pacific  meets  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Railway,  opening  another  trans-continental  lino.  Needles 
is  abont  277  miles  above  Yuma,  and  163  miles  below  Virgin 
River.  At  the  latter  point  there  are  very  extensive  deposits 
of  rock  salt  of  the  finest  quality. 

There  are  Lvrge  bodies  of  land  along  the  Colorado  which 
only  need  water  to  become  very  productive.  An  extensive 
canal  scheme  is  projected  for  the  irrigation  of  about  25,000 
acres  by  the  Colorado  River.  Gen.  Fremont  and  others 
have  advocated  that  the  General  Government  should  under- 
take the  reclamation  of  the  Colorado  Desert  at  large  by  the 
same  means.  Judging  from  what  I  have  seen,  the  area  sus- 
ceptible of  cultivation,  as  compared  with  the  whole,  is  too 
limited  to  warrant  the  expenditure  for  hundreds  of  years  to 
come. 

THE  JUNCTION  HOUSE  AND  DEPOT  of  the  S.  P. 

R.  R.,  at  the   Needles,   Hodges,   Little  &  Co.,  proprietors, 
affords  first  class  accommodations. 

A  Rich  Find. — Three  minors,  recently  prospecting  in 
tho  monntains  near  the  Noodles,  discovered  u  abandoned 
shaft  with  a  pioco  of   rope  still  attached  to  tho  windlass. 


EXCURSIONS    FROM   SAJf   FRANCISCO. 


169 


After  testing  and  finding  it  strong  enough  to  hold,  one  of 
them  began  the  descent.  When  down  about  25  feet  he  sud- 
denly cried  out  in  great  alarm  for  his  companions  to  haul 
him  up.  He  reached  the  surface  pale  and  trembling,  with 
just  sufficient  strength  to  articulate  between  his  gasps  for 
breath,  "Snakes!  snakes!!"  Lowering  a  light,  sure  enough, 
about  twenty-five  full-grown  rattlesnakes  raised  their  heads 
ready  for  action,  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole.  One  of  the 
party  related  to  me  this  snake  story. 

Trip  No.  6. — Ffom  San  Fraticinco  to  Redlimj,  California,  via 
Davis  and  Tehama,  relarnim/  via  ilfari/sviUe,  Sturamento, 
Stockton,  Lathrop,  Livermore  and  Niles.  Round  trip, 
569  milea. 

Beturning  from  Yuma,  I  proceeded  by  rail  to  Bedding, 
Hhasta  County,  Cal.,  the  present  northern  terminus  of  the 
Oregon  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific^  Bailway.  This  route 
extends  the  whole  length  of  the  great  Hacrameuto  Valley, 
passing  througli  its  famous  wheat,  wool  and  fruit  growing  dis- 
tricts, and  its  most  important  cities  and  towns.  The  landscape 
is  exceedingly  attractive,  extensive  scopes  of  country,  especial- 
ly in  the  northern  portion,  being  handsomely  wooded  with  live 


THE  NEW  WESTERN  HOTEL, 
209  to  919  K  Street,  Sacnuuento.    Two  blocks. from  C.  P.  li.  R.  Depot. 

WILLIAM  LAND,  PROPRItTOR  A.  W.  MORRISON.  CHIIF   CLERK. 

The  leading  bugineas  and  family  hotel  of  Sacramento      Splendid  light  rooms,  with  or  with- 
out board.    Meals,  25  cents.     Free  'Bus  meets  all  trains. 


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CALIFORNIA. 


oak.  The  most  picturesque  scenery  lies  between  Lathrop 
and  San  Francisco,  through  the  Diablo  range  of  mountains. 

Travelers  stopping  over  at  Redding  will  be  well  provided 
for  at  the  Redding  Hotel,  B.  Conroy,  proprietor. 

At  Sacramento  the 

NEW  WESTERN  HOTEL,  Wm.  Land,  proprietor, 
justly  claims  to  be  one  of  the  best  houses  in  that  city, 
and  unsurpassed  on  the  coast  for  affording  good  accommo- 
dations at  reasonable  prices.  Their  omnibus  meets  all  trains 
at  the  great  depot  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R. 

The  Shannon  House,  R.  T.  Shannon,  proprietor,  situ- 
ated at  Lathrop,  the  junction  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  and  S.  P. 
R.  R.,  where  all  trains  stop  twenty  minutes,  is  a  good 
second  class  hotel;  meals,  25  cents. 

TiJP  No.  7. — From  San  Francisco  to  tJie.  Faraiso  Hot  Mineral 
Springs,  returning  via  Monterey  and  Gilroy  Hot  Mineral 
Springs.     Round  trip,  355  miles. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway 
from  Fourth  and  Townsend  streets,  the  route  traverses  the 
Santa  Clai'a  Valley,  famous  for  its  beauty  and  fertility, 
orchards  and  vineyards,  delightful  towns  and  magnificent 
country  seats,  via  Milbrae,  Sau  Mateo,  Belmont,  Menlo  Park, 
Santa  Clara,  San  Jose  and  Gilroy,  then  follows  down  the 
picturesque  Pajaro  River  to  the  great  Salinas  Valley,  through 
Salinas,  Chualar  and  Gonzales,  reaching  Soledad,  the  ter- 
minus, 143  miles  from  San  Francisco,  at  6:13  r.  M.,  and  the 
Springs  about  6:30  p.  M. 

THE  CELEBRATED  PARAISO  HOT  MINERAL 
SPRINGS  are  situated  at  an  elevation  of  1400  feet  above 
the  sea,  on  the  eastern  foot-hills  of  the  Cjast  Range  of 
Mountains,  in  Monterey  County,  150  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  seven  miles  from  Soledad,  the  present  terminus  of 
the  Northern  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 

The  principal  springs  are  hot  and  cold,  soda,  sulphur 
and  iron,  and  remarkably  efficacious  for  the  euro  of  rh«Munu- 
tism,  dyspepsia,  neuralgia,  kidney  and  liver  complaints. 


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EXCURSIONS   FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


171 


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172 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  situation  is  one  of  the  most  deliglitful  I  have  ever 
seen,  the  grounds  embracing  a  tract  of  300  acres,  with  a 
sunny  Eastern  exposure,  amply  shaded  by  handsome  live 
oak,  and  other  native  forest  trees,  perfectly  protected  from 
all  harsh  w^inds  by  the  surrounding  hills,  and  commanding 
an  extensive  and  magnificent  valley  and  mountain  view. 

There  are  excellent  accommodations  for  150  guests,  com- 


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prising  besides  a  commodious  hotel  building,  21  neat  hand- 
somely furnished  cottages,  music,  billiard  and  dining-halla, 
shooting  gallery,  croquet  grounds,  swings,  drives  and  walkp, 
and  a  fine  livery  of  carriage  and  saddle-horses. 

There  are  excellent  bathing  facilities  for  hot  and  cold, 
soda,  sulphur,  iron  and  mud  baths,  the  latter  highly  recom- 
mended for  the  cure  of  obstinate  cases  of  rheumatism. 


mm 


THE    PARAISO    HOT  MINERAL    SPRINOS.  173 

The  Hot  Soda  Springs,  having  a  temperature  of  from 
102^  to  121^,  have  also  made  remarkable  cures  of  paralytics, 
who  sought  relief  in  vain  elsewhere. 

The  climate  is  unsurpassed  for  equability  and  salubrity, 
absolutely  free  from  all  raflaria,  possessing  a  delightful 
mean  the  year  round. 

There  is  good  deer,  rabbit  and  quail  hunting  in  the 
neighboring  ■lills,  and  trout  fishing  within  five  miles. 

It  iz  open  the  year  round,  and  is  one  of  the  most  enjoy- 
able and  deservedly  popular  summer  and  winter  resorts  on 
tiie  coast.  Its  patronage  is  increasing  so  rapidly,  that  ex- 
tensive improvements  are  now  in  progress,  comprising  the 
building  of  several  new  cottages,  a  large  dining-hall,  etc. 

A  skillful  physician.  Dr.  W.  L.  Newlands,  late  of  San 
Francisco,  is  in  constant  attendance. 

An  easy  four-horse  coach  meets  all  trains  at  Soledad,  and 
conveys  guests,  over  a  gradual  aud  smooth  grade,  to  the 
Springs,  where  their  popular  owner,  Mr.  J.  P.  Keeve  and 
his  excellent  wife,  devote  personal  attention  to  their 
comfort. 

Excursion  tickets  for  the  round  trip  to  and  from  San 
Francisco  are  111.50,  good  for  six  months. 

There  is  telephonic  and  telegraphic  communication  to  all 
points,  and  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.'s  Express  and  post-office  at 
the  Springs. 

Analysis  of  Paraiso  Hot  Mineral  Springs  by  Professor 
Cichi.  One  gallon  of  water  from  Soda  Springs  con- 
tains : 

OBAINg. 

Mivtter  volatile  oti  ignition,  so  called  organic  matter 5.25 

Silica 2.62 

Alunmia  and  iron 1 .60 

Magnesia,  traco. 

Chloride  of  potasHiuni 35 

Chloride  of  sodium 3.50 

Sulphate  of  Hoda 35.50 

Carbonate  of  soda 4.23 

Sulphate  of  lime 4.32 

Carbonate  of  lime 1.43 

Total 58.80 

Temperature 118°  F. 


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174 


CALIFOnmA. 


The  Sulphur  Springs  contain  a  large  per  centage  of  sul- 
phate of  soda,  sulphate  of  lime,  peroxide  of  iron,  bicarbon- 
ate of  magnesia,  organic  matter,  sulphate  of  potassia. 
Temperature,  114'    F. 

The  Mud  Bath  combine  the  properties  of  both  soda  and 
sulphur  springs. 

THE  GILROY  HOT  MINERAL  SPRINGS.— The  fa- 
mous Gilroy  Hot  Mineral  Springs  are  charmingly  situated 
on  Coyote  Creek,  in  the  Pacheco  Mountains,  an  extension 
of  the  Diable  Range,  about  1500  feet  above  the  sea,  92  miles 
from  San  Friincisco,  and  12  miles  from  Gilroy,  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railway. 

They  were  first  discovered  and  taken  up  in  1853,  by  two 
Spaniards,  Jose  and  Ignacia  Ortega,  who  were  attracted  by 
the  vapors  rising  from  the  springs,  while  herding  sheep  in 
the  neighboring  liills. 

The  following  year  they  were  purchased  by  Messrs.  Roop 
and  Oldham — Roop  &  Tennant  being  the  present  proprie- 
tors. The  springs  property  embraces  a  very  picturesque  400 
acre  tract  of  handsome,  rolling  foot-hill?,  finely  wooded  with 
live  oak,  pine,  Liurel  and  sycamore,  supplying  the  table  with 
an  abundance  of  fresh  milk  and  vegetables. 

There  are  numerous  springs,  cold  and  hot — the  most 
important  having  a  temperature  ranging  from  109'^  to 
115° — sulphur,  iron,  magnesia  and  iodine  being  its  most 
prominent  ingredients.  They  are  unrivaled  for  the  cure  of 
rheumatism,  neuralgia,  paralysis,  liver,  kidney  and  kindred 
diseases. 

The  climate  is  dry  and  exhilerating,  exempt  from  the 
coast  fogs  and  winds,  one  of  the  most  healthy  and  enjoya- 
ble in  the  world. 

The  improvements  are  among  the  most  extensive  and 
complete  of  any  sanitarium  on  the  Pacific  coast,  comprising 
a  main  building,  with  thirty-two  handsomely  furnished 
apartments,  large  fine  parlors  and  dining-room,  a  seventeen- 
room  lodging  hall,  nineteen  cosy  cottages,  billiard-room, 
fountains,  flower  garden,  livery,  post  and  telegraph  offices, 
etc.,  and  everything  necessary  for  the  perfect  accommoda- 
tion of  250  guests. 


THE   NAPA    SODA    SPRINGS. 


175 


The  bathing  facilities  are  excellent — sixteen  large  bath- 
rooms, a  plunge-bath  for  ladies  and  one  for  gentlemen;  also 
a  mud  bath  for  severe  cases  of  rheumatism. 

The  large  and  increasing  patronage  of  these  popular 
springs  is  sufficient  evidence  of  their  virtues  and  the  excel- 
lence of  their  management. 

John  Paine's  daily  coach  meets  the  two  o'clock  train  at 
Gilroy;  the  fare  for  the  round  trip,  from  San  Francisco, 
being  eight  dollars,  with  a  deduction  of  two  dollars  for  the 
Ssfturday  excursion  train,  returning  Monday. 

Trip  No.  8.— Through  the  Napa  Valley  to  the  Napa  and  Calis- 
toga  Springs.     Round  trip,  160  mi7es. 

Leaving  the  Market  street  ferry  at  8  a.  m.,  32  miles  out 
crossing  the  Carquinas  Straits  two  miles  by  steamer  to 
South  Vallejo,  and  thence  by  rail  42  miles  through  the 
Napa  Valley,  famous  for  its  beauty  and  fertility,  extensive 
orchards  and  vineyards,  affords  one  of  the  most  enjoyable 
day's  excursions  on  the  coast. 

THE  NAPA  SODA  SPRINGS.  The  celebrated  Napa 
Soda  Springs  are  situated  on  the  western  foothills  of  the 
mountain  range  lying  between  the  Sacramento  and  Napa 
Valleys,  about  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  six  miles 
northeast  of  Napa  City  and  45  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
The  Springs  property  embraces  a  magnificent  tract  of  1020 
acres,  finely  wooded  with  live  oak,  laurel  and  madrona, 
abundantly  supplied  with  excellent  water  from  living  streams 
and  springs,  and  commanding  one  of  the  most  delightful 
views  upon  the  continent. 

Extensive  improvements  have  been  made,  comprising  an 
imposing  and  handsome  circular  structure  called  the  Ro- 
tunda, 120  feet  in  diameter  and  75  feet  in  height,  an  elegant 
club-house,  the  tower,  ivy,  garden  and  bottling  houses,, 
music  and  dining  halls,  hot  and  cold  baths,  a  swimming 
pool  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  200  feet  in  length;  orchards, 
vineyards  and  gardens,  arbors,  walks  and  drives,  water  and 
gas  works,  a  telephone   to   Napa,  etc.,  etc.,  affording  the 


m 


;i:l 


176 


CALIFORNIA. 


most  perfect  acoommodations  for  250  guests.    There  were 
125  there  a  few  days  before  my  visit. 

From  the  mineral  springs,  some  20  in  number,  flows 
an  inexhaustible  supply  of  the  popular  Napa  Soda,  the 
most  extensively  consumed  mineral  water  on  the  Pacific 
coast.  From  250  to  300  dozen  bottles  are  put  up  daily,  tlie 
June  shipment,  I  am  informed,  amounting  to  8054  dozen,  or 
96,540  bottles,  orders  coming  from  British  Columbia,  Mex- 
ico and  China. 


NAPA  PAGODA  SPRING. 


Col.  J.  P.  Jackson,  of  the  Evening  Post,  is  the  owner  of 
this  valuable  property.  A  four-horse  coach  meets  all 
trains  at  Napa.  Request  the  driver  to  take  the  upper  road, 
which  affords  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  views,  and 
also  to  pass  through  the  handsome  grounds  of  Gen.  Miller's 
country  residence. 


/ 


'■■11 


NAPA  aOUSTY  \flNKR.\L  SPRfNGS.  177 

Analysis  of  water  from  Napa  Soda  Springs,  made  by 
Prof.  Louis  Lanszweert: 

Temperature  Fahrenheit  08" 

GrainH. 

Residue  from  the  evaporatiDH  of  a  gallon  08. 7G 

Bicarbonate  of  Soda 13. 12 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 20 .  12 

Carbon-^te  of  Lime 10 .  83 

Chlori''.e  of  Sodium 5.20 

Hubcarbonate  of  Iron 7 .  84 

Sulphatt  of  Soda 1 .84 

SiliciouB  Acid 0.02 

Alumina O.GO 

THE  WHITE  SULPHUR  SPRINGS,  nine  in  number, 
are  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  St.  Helena.  They  were 
formerly  much  resorted  to,  but  are  not  at  present  entertain- 
ing visitors. 

The  following  is  the  analysis  of  one  gallon  of  these 
waters,  made  by  Prof.  LeConte : 

No.  2.  Nil.  H.  No.  7. 

Temperature  Of  Spring 8<,».0F.  80  0  F.        (!D  8  F. 

Specific  gravity 1005.20  lOOU  40        1000.38 

Solids.  UrHinx. 

Carbonate  of  Lime 1.25  2.45  5.50 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 0  02               0 .  50  4 .  30 

Sulphate  of  Soda 8.20  11  :J3  12.84 

Chloride  of  Sodium 21 .72  23.41  14.23 

Chloride  of  Calcium 1.32               0  80  0.78 

Chloiide  of  Magnesium 0  87               2  22  0  05 

Sulphides  of  Sodium  and  Calcium.  2  05               1.85  162 

Totiil   36.69  42.67  40.04 

Gftsos.  Oubic  iDoheH. 

Sulphureted  Hydrogen 0.15  4  25  Trace. 

.ETNA  SPRINGS.  The  ^tna  Springs,  picturesquely 
situated  about  16  miles  from  St.  Helena,  at  the  head  of  Pope 
Valley,  are  a  popular  health  and  pleasure  resort,  open  the 
year  round.  Excellent  accommodations  are  provided  for  a 
large  number  of  guests  at  110  per  week.  There  are  also  fine 
grounds  for  campers,  with  good  hunting  and  fishing. 

Stages  meet  the  11:30  a.m.  train  at  St.  Helena. 


•'i  n. 


Ml 


Si 


m 

"fi 

m 


■    'ii 


'4 


178  CAZIFORmA. 

Analysis  by  Prof.  J.  A.  Bauer.     Contents  of  one  gallon. 

Teraperuture  Fahrenheit 98° 

rimiim. 

Carbonate  of  Soda 75 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 14 

Carbonate  of  Lime .10 

Carbonate  of  Iron Trace 

Sulphate  of  Soda .  Trace 

Sulphate  of  Potash .  .         H 

Chloride  of  Sodium ...    2!) 

Silica Trace 

Total  Solids 1 .  37 

Carbonic  Acid,  cubic  inches 5K 

THE  CALISTOGA  SPRINGS,  iit  the  town  of  CaliH- 
togrt,  very  extensively  improved  by  Mr.  Samuel  Brannan, 
were  for  many  years  the  most  frequented  health  resort  on 
the  coast. 

Owing  to  the  destruction  of  the  main  hotel  building  by 
fire,  financial  embarassments,  and  frequent  change  of  man- 
agement, the  place  has  lost  most  of  its  patronage. 

There  are  still  several  comfortable  cottages  remaining, 
and  good  hot  and  cold  water  bathing  facilities. 

The  situation  is  naturally  very  attractive,  and  the  springs, 
some  twenty  in  number,  are  well  recommended  for  those 
diseases,  for  which  iron,  sulphur  and  msignesia  are  a  specific. 

Analysis  of  one  gallon  by  Prof.  J.  F.  Rudolph : 

Temperature 97 ' 

Chloride  of  Sodium 2'2.'2[>() 

Chloride  of  Calcium 3  2C>;t 

f!arl)Ouate  of  Soda 3 .  ■1(1(1 

Sulphate  of  Soda 1 .010 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia 0 .  40(5 

Silica : 0.500 

Alumina Trace 


Total 37.500 

Trip  No.  9.  —  From  San  Fmncw'o  t<>  Santa  Cruz,  via 
South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge  Railway.  Round 
trip,  160  miles. 

No  tourist  should  leave  the  Pacific  coast  without  visiting 
Santa  Cruz,  via  the  S.  P.  C.  R.  R.     It  traverses  one  of  the 


FROM  SAN  FRANC rSCO  TO  SANTA  CRUZ. 


179 


most  picturesque  and  interesting  routes  in  America.  First 
across  the  liarbor  of  San  Francisco,  from  the  foot  of  Market 
Street,    to   Alameda,  on  the  Company's  splendid  steamer, 


thence  by  rail  for  several  miles,  skirting  the  eastern  shore  of 
the  bay,  then  down  the  beautiful  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
through  Santa  Clara  and  San  Jose,  over  the  wild  and  pictur- 


li 


I  '■ 


M 
Ml ' 
'Si ' 


Si* 


180 


CALIFORNTA. 


esque  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  within  sight  of  the  wonderful 
Big  Trees,  to  the  north  shore  of  the  magniticont  Bay  of 
Monterey. 
Bix  miles  from  the  road,  at  Los  Gatos,  are  situated 

THE  FAMOUS  CONGRESS  MINERAL  SPRINGS— 

the  Saratoga  of  the  Pacific,  and   Mecca  of    thousands  of 
health  and  pleasure-seekers  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 

THE  BIG  TREES,  five  miles  from  Santa  Cruz,  con- 
taining the  grandest  monarchs  of  the  forest,  outside  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  is  a  great  summer  resort  for  tour- 
ists and  pleasure-seekors. 

CAMP  CAPITOLA,  a  charming  spot  on  the  shores  of 
Monterey  Bay,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  sea-side  resortH. 
Here  fhere  is  a  splendid  beach,  e::oellent  hotel  and  cottage 
accommodations  and  fine  camping  grounds. 

PESCADERO,  one  of  the  most  noted  pleasure  resorts 
on  the  entire  coast,  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pescu- 
dero  River,  in  San  Mateo  County,  33  miles  from  San  Mateo. 

The  famous  Pescadero  pebble  beach  is  about  two  miles 
from  the  village. 

For  excellence  of  climate,  bathing,  hunting,  fishing  and 
field  sports  generally,  Pescadero  is  unsurpassed. 

Trip  No.  10. — Prom  San  Francisco  to  the  Cliff  Uunm  aikd 
Seal  Bocks,  via  Golden  Gate  Park,  returniiKj  via,  Point 
Lobos  Road,  the  Presidio  and  Hqrbor  VieAO  Park  and 
Sea-side  Garilens.     Bound  trip,  14  miles, 

THE  CLIFF  HOUSE,  situated  on  a  commanding  bluft" 
on  the  sea-shore,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Golden  Gate, 
about  six  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  only  place  on 
the  American  Continent  accessible  to  the  ordinary  touvist, 
which  affords  so  near  a  view  of  sea-lions  disporting  them- 
selves with  perfect  freedom  in  their  native  element,  the 
vast  aquarium  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Under  the  protection 
of  the  laws  of  the  State,  they  have  become  so  tame  that 


I'LKAHUHE  nHHORTS   OF  SAN  FliANVISCO. 


181 


Hcores  of  them  may  be  seen  at  any  time  crawling  and 
lying  upon,  or  diving  from  the  Oreat  8eal  liockn,  within  a 
few  hundred  yards  of  tlie  veranda  of  the  Clitt"  House, 
and  their  barking  and  howling  heard  half  a  mile  away. 
The  drive  thence  is  over  a  splendid  macadamized  road, 
atfording  magnificent  ocean  and  harbor  vie'vs  It  passes 
through  the 

GOLDEN  GATE  PARK,  comprising  1042  nrves,  portions 
of  which  have  been  converted  from  a  treel  ,  sanely  wtisto 
to  plefi8">  t  groves  of  eucalyptus  and  otht^r  evorgreLns,  with 
excelKini  drives,  shady  vvalL'S  and  cool,  cosy  re^  eats. 

Returning  by  the  Point  !Lobos  Road,  aud  through  the 
Presidio,  the  U.  S.  Military  Reservation,  the  vij.lLr)r  will 
see  the  model  military  station  of  t'le  coast — handsome 
barracks,  elegant  officers'  residences,  surrounded  by  beau- 
tiful green  lawns  and  flower  gardens,  and  the  arms  and 
munitions  of  war. 

Proceeding  toward  the  city,  we  soon  reach 

HARBOR  VIEW  PARK,  founded  by  R.  Herman,  Esq., 
twenty  years  ago,  one  of  the  most  populai  suburban 
health  and  pleasure  resorts  of  San  Francisco.  The  grounds, 
comprising  three  blocks,  situated  about  two  miles  from  the 
heart  of  the  city,  immediately  on  the  shore  of  the  beautiful 
harbor  of  San  Francisco,  commanding  its  finest  views,  have, 
by  the  expenditure  of  tons  of  thousands  of  dollars,  and  the  skill 
of  the  artisan  and  landscape  gardener,  been  converted  into 
a  perfect  fairy  land  of  green  lawns,  pleasant  walks,  arbors 
and  drives,  shaded  by  handsome  growths  of  Monterey  c}-- 
press,  pine,  acacia,  blue  gum,  pepper  and  other  evergreens. 

Here  excellent  garden  concerts,  splendid  orchestral  and 
band  music,  social  hops,  boat  raciug,  prize  swimming  and 
shooting,  fine  surf  bathing,  etc.,  provide  a  round  of  rare 
pleasure  and  entertainment,  for  the  small  admission  fee  of 
ten  cents. 

The  Pavilion  is  a  magnificent  structure,  130  feet  square, 
with  a  roof  supported  by  a  single  central  pillar,  a  dancing 
floor  unsurpassed   on   the  coast,   and  ceilings  artistically 


THE  CHINESE  IN  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


188 


decorated    in  excellent  imitation  of 
plants  and  flowers. 


living  trailing  vines, 


The  Bathing  FAcrLiriES  are  among  the  moat  complete 
which  I  have  examined. 

The  beach  is  splendid,  smooth,  free  from  stones,  and 
perfectly  safe  at  all  times. 

There  are  thirty-three  fine,  separate  bathing  apartments, 
with  suits,  towels,  etc.,  under  the  careful  supervision  of  a 
constant  attendant. 

Tl»e  sanitary  regulations  are  excellent,  and  the  whole  place 
is  kept  in  the  most  perfect  order. 

The  Union  Street  Cable  Koad  conveys  passengers  direct 
from  foot  of  Montgomery  Avenue  to  Harbor  View  Park  and 
the  Prosidio,  for  five  cents. 

Refreshments  may  be  obtained  at  all  the  places  men- 
tioned, and  also  at  the  Cliff  House,  Point  Lobos  Road,  F. 
Eh'erson,  proprietor, 

Thuough  the  Chinese  Quarters. — No  country  affords 
greater  opportunities  for  observing  the  peculiar  habits, 
customs  and  characteristics  of  different  nationalities  than  the 
United  States.  We  are  the  most  cosmopolitan  of  all  nations. 
Nearly  all  of  our  great  cities  contain  colonies  of  peoples 
from  all  civilized  lands,  but  none  except  San  Francisco  has 
had  transplanted  into  its  midst  a  body  of  pagans,  numbering 
many  thousands,  taking  entire  possession  of  several  blocks 
in  the  center  of  trade,  bringing  with  them  all  of  the  peculiar 
modes  oi^'  living,  dress,  customs  and  observances  practiced 
in  their  native  country. 

The  Chinesv^  Quarter  of  San  Francisco  is  therefore  re- 
garded !iK  one  of  the  great  sights  of  the  Pacific  coast,  of 
which,  however,  its  residents  are  not  accustomed  to  boast. 
Althougli  quite  unnecessary  so  far  f'.s  safety  is  concerned, 
police  guidance  and  protection  is  furnished  upon  applica- 
tion, for  parties  of  two  or  more,  who  desire  to  explore  it 
thoroughly.  I  have  seen  much  of  the  Chinese  on  the  Pacific 
coast  during  the  past  ten  years — in  all  of  its  principal  cities 
and  towns,  Sun  Diego,  Los  AngeJes,  Santa  Barbara,  San 
Francisco,  Portland  and  Victoria,  in  the  construction  camps 


184 


CALIFORNIA. 


of  the  Northern  Pacific  and  Canadian  Pacific  Railways,  and 
on  the  great  ranches  all  over  the  coast. 

They  are  certainly  a  most  wonderful  people,  marvels  of 
industry,  perfect  machines  in  the  copying  and  execution  of 
any  kind  of  handiwork ;  aggressive  in  many  departments  of 
labor,  by  virtue  of  unremitting,  patient  toil  and  frugal  living; 
grotesque  in  dress,  cleanly  in  some  personal  habits,  very  filthy 
in  others;  temperate  in  drinking,  but  very  intemperate  in 
smoking;  quiet  and  polite  in  manner,  peaceable  and  less  given 
to  the  commission  of  crime  in  general  than  any  equal  num- 
ber of  our  own  population;  Pagans  in  religion,  but  honest 
and  prompt  in  all  of  their  business  relations. 

That  portion  of  San  Francisco  bounded  by  California, 
Broadway,  Stockton  and  Kearny  streets,  is  packed  with  about 
twenty-five  thousand  of  these  strange  people;  dressing,  liv- 
ing and  carrying  on  trade  as  in  their  own  country. 

I  have  frequently  visited  them,  but  never  made  so  thor- 
ough an  examination  of  their  quarters  as  recently  with 
officer  Sergeant  Geo.  Birdsall,  in  charge  of  the  city  police 
force  of  the  Chinese  Quarter.  To  elaborate  upon  what  I 
saw,  would  fill  a  volume. 

There  were  Chinamen  of  all  ages,  and  both  sexes,  round, 
bronzed-faced,  almond-eyed,  and  pig-tailed;  dressed  in  their 
blue,  square  cut,  broad  sleeved,  short  tailed  blouses;  eating 
rice  with  chop  sticks,  drinking  tea  from  their  diminutive 
china  cups;  smoking  opium  with  their  long  pipes,  reclining 
in  dingy  dismal  dens  in  all  stages  of  soranolescence;  living 
in  small,  dark  filthy  cellars  and  narrow  alleys,  alive  with  cats 
and  dogs;  sleeping  packed  like  herring;  gambling  behind 
great  double  iron-bound  eight  inch  thick  doors,  with  watch- 
men outside  and  in ;  playing  disgusting  acts  on  the  stage  to 
JiOOO  gaping  spectators;  burning  incense  before  graven 
images  in  their  Joss  houses;  Chinamen  engaged  in  many  avo- 
cations; Chinese  merchants,  money  brokers,  doctors,  fruit 
dealers,  washermen,  tailors,  barbers,  boot  and  shoe  makers, 
restauranteurs,  butchers,  cigar  manufacturers,  watchmakers, 
goldsmiths,  pawnbrokers,  prostitutes,  etc.,  etc.,  everything 
almost  except  saloon-keepers. 


i 


THE   GHINEHE    IN  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


185 


"In  some  branches  of  trade  they  are  quite  aggressive,  con- 
trolling at  present  the  San  B'rancisoo  fresh  pork  market. 

Many  have  evidently  come  to  America  *'  to  stay." 

Sergeant  Birdsall,  who  knows  the  history  and  ownership 
of  all  of  the  principal  buildings  of  Chinatown,  pointed  out 
block  af  ler  block,  formerly  prominent  houses  in  the  heart  of 
the  business  portion  of  the  city,  which  have  been  purchased 
by  Chinamen  at  prices  ranging  from  $10,000  to  $60,000,  and 
showed  me  several  for  which  they  pay  a  monthly  rental  of 
from  $700  to  $800. 

The  old  Globe,  Portsmouth  House,  St.  Francis  and  Cal- 
ifornia Hotel,  Boomerang  Saloon  and  Bee  Hive  Building 
are  all  occupied  by  Chinamen.  The  notorious  Belle  Corey 
House,  of  Waverly  Place,  is  now  also  the  abode  of  the 
Heathen  Chinee. 

Their  presence  in  such  large  numbers  on  this  coast  is  mainly 
due  to  the  great  demand  for  laborers,  occasioned  by  railway 
construction  and  the  wonderful  development  of  the  manifold 
industries  of  a  new  country,  and  the  unreliable  character  of 
white  field  labor. 

Large  numbers  of  land-owners  have  told  me  that  they 
would  gladly  employ  white  men,  were  it  not  for  their  intem- 
perate and  shiftless  habits. 

The  right  of  the  Chinese  to  compete  in  the  labor  market 
of  the  world  is,  I  think,  indisputable,  and  we  Americans, 
with  all  our  boasted  enlightenment  and  advancement,  should 
be  ashamed  to  fear  such  competition. 

I  regard  all  laws  restricting  the  free  movement  of  any 
people,  to  and  from  any  part  of  tlie  globe,  either  for 
residence  or  service,  as  unconstitutional  and  oppressive, 
and  a  disgrace  to  the  country  enacting  them. 


I 


186 


CALIFORNIA. 


WOODWARD'S  GARDENS,  established  by  R.  B. 
Woodward  in  1860,  is  the  best  and  greatest  resort  for  in- 
struction and  amusement  on  the  Pacific  coast.  They  com- 
prise over  two  blocks,  bounded  by  Mission,  13th  and  ICth 
streets,  and  embrace  besides  the  great  Pavilion,  Music  Hall 
and  Amphitheater,  where  excellent  performances  are  held 
every  Saturday  and  Sunday,  the  most  complete  collections 
of  animals,  birds,  fishes,  flowers  and  plants,  geological 
specimens  and  curiosities  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  to  be 
found  in  the  United  States. 


The  grounds  are  delightfully  laid  out,  a  perfect  fairy 
land  of  green  lawns,  bright  flowers,  fountains  and  miniature 
lakes,  with  picturesque  rocky  grottoes,  shady  bowers  and 
fine  statuary,  and  with  its  museums,  aquariums,  menagerie, 


F 


PLEASURE  RESORTS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


187 


art  gallery,  conservatory,  skating  rink,  swings,  rotary  boats, 
"  happy  families,"  canning  monkeys,  trick  donkeys,  live  seal, 
bear,  bison,  wolves,  lions,  foxes,  panther,  camels,  deer, 
kangaroo,  sea  lions,  ostrich,  swans,  etc.,  etc.,  aflfords  an  un- 
paralleled source  of  education  and  entertainment  for  both 
old  and  young. 

The  Zoographicon,  invented  by  Prof.  F.  Gruber,  excites 
the  wonder  and  admiration  of  all  visitors,  a^d  affords  a  better 
knowledge  of  the  physical  geography  of  the  earth  and  the 
animals  and  productions  of  the  several  zones,  than  a  whole 
term  of  ordinary  school  instruction. 


They  have  been  deemed  worthy  of  visits  from  the  most 
distinguished  people  of  the  world,  including  Gen.  U.  S. 
Grant,  Dom  Pedro  II,  Emperor  of  Brazil,  King  and  Queen 
of  Sandwich  Islands,  Louis  Agassiz,  Professors  Henry, 
Marsh  and  Gray,  and  other  scientists  and  directors  of 
European  museums,  too  numerous  to  mention. 

The  gardens  are  open  the  year  round,  from  about  7  a.  m. 
to  6  p.  M.,  and  the  price  of  admission  only  25  cents  for  adults 
and  10  cents  for  children.  Excellent  restaurants  provide  all 
necessaries  and  luxuries,  if  desired.  The  Mission  street 
cars,  also  the  Larkin,  Valencia,  Howard  and  Folsom  lines 
convey  visitors  to  the  entrance  every  two  or  three  minutes, 
from  all  parts  of  the  city,  for  five  cents.  This  great  resort 
is  under  the  able  management  of  Mr.  Isaac  Hyde. 


'if 


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f 


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■4 


188 


CALIFORNIA. 


h  I 


THE  HOTEL  ACCOMMODATIONS  OF  SAN  FRAN- 
CISCO  are  superior  to  those  of  any  other  city  in  the  Union. 
There  are  houses  adapted  to  the  wants,  tastes  and  means 
of  all  classes,  at  the  most  reasonable  rates. 

THE  INTERNATIONAL,  Mr.  John  Thomas,  owner  and 
proprietor,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  hotels  on  the  coast 
with  the  traveling  public ;  its  register  showing  over  12,000 
arrivals  within  thi  past  twelve  months.  It  is  a  fine,  large 
house,  containing  140  light,  airy  rooms,  accommodating  300 
guests,  situated  convenient  to  all  the  car  lines,  steamer 
landings  and  places  of  amusements,  and  under  the  able 
personal  management  of  the  proprietor  and  Mr.  T.  J.  Brannan, 
his  Chief  Clerk. 


THE  INTEBNATIONAL  HOTEL,  SAN  FBANCI8CO, 
821  sud  826  Kearny  Street,  between  Wkshingtou  and  Jackson  Streets. 

JOHN    THOMAt,    PROPRICTOfl.  T.   d.    BRANNIN.   OtflCF   CLIRK. 

Board  and  room  per  day,  11.00,  $1.60  and  t3.0U,  according  to  room.    Free  Coach. 

Trip  No.  11.  —  Overland  from  San  Francisco  to  Portland,  Ore- 
gon, via  the  great  mineral  spring  and  mountain  resorts  of 
LaJce  and  Sonoma  Counties,  Tfie  Big  Oeysers,  Petrified 
Forest,  Sisson's,  Mount  Shasta  and  Yreka,  California, 
linsehurg,  Eugene  City,  Salem,  Albany,  Payton\  and 
WilJioii  Mineral  Springs,  Oregon,  1000  miles  ;  including 
n  pedestrian  tour  of  25u  miles,  through  So^wma  aiui  Lake 
Counties,  California,  the  Switzerland  of  tJie.  Pacific  Coast. 

It  is  about  GOO  miles  by  the  regular  overland  route  from 
San  Francisco  to  Portland  via  Oregon 'Division  C.  P.  R.  R., 


EXCURSIONS   FROM  SAM  FHANVISCO. 


189 


260  miles  to  Bedding,  thence  hy  stage  to  the  Southern  ter- 
Liinus  of  the  Oregon  and  California  B.  B.,  now  about  275 
miles  south  of  Portland. 

For  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  numerous  mountain  re- 
sorts, mineral  springs  and  points  of  interest  of  this  upper 
coast  region,  I  traveled  about  400  miles  further. 

Fedestrianism  is  not  popular  in  California;  indeed,  is 
hardly  considered  respectable.  The  poorest  native  rides, 
and  those  found  afoot,  are  either  regarded  as  common 
tramps,  or  in  desperate  circumstances. 

Notwithstanding,  upon  reaching  the  town  of  Williams, 
on  the  C.  P.  B.  B.,  125  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and  find- 
ing that  my  routes  of  travel  among  the  mineral  springs  and 
mountain  resorts  of  this  region  were  mainly  off  from  all 
regular  lines  of  stage  service  at  this  season,  I  determined  to 
undertake  the  journey  on  foot.  I  had  expressed  my  rifle, 
rubber  coat,  etc.,  from  Eugene  City,  lost  my  cloak  and  glass 
crossing  the  mountains,  and  was  therefore  reduced  to  light 
marching  order,  unencumbered  except  by  the  indispensable 
umbrella  and  a  light  hand  satchel. 

Every  mode  of  travel  has  its  special  advantages  and  dis- 
advantages, and  though  plodding  along,  at  the  rate  of  three 
or  four  miles  an  hour,  would  appear  an  intolerable  hardslnp 
to  many,  it  is  really  the  most  enjoyable  and  best  way  in  the 
world  to  see  a  country  and  its  people  thoroughly. 

Eight  miles  across  the  western  borders  of  the  great  val- 
ley of  Sacramento  brought  me  to  the  eastern  foot-liills  of 
the  Coast  Bange  in  Colusa  County. 

For  the  last  hundreds  of  miles,  even  to  Southern  Oregon, 
the  unprecedented  dry  weather  of  March  threatened  the 
most  general  and  disastrous  crop  failures  ever  known  on  this 
coast. 

The  farmers  and  merchants  generally,  all  along  the  line, 
through  the  rich  Bogue  BiVer  and  upper  Sacramento  valleys, 
were  filled  with  the  gloomiest  forebodings  in  consequence. 
Many  had  already  given  up  all  hopes  of  a  crop,  and  were 
turning  their  stock  into  the  withering  wheat-fields.  Some 
were  leaving  the  country,  and  hundreds  preparing  to  do  so. 
Nothing  but  immediate  and  abundant  rains  could  save 
thousands  from  absolute  ruin. 


I'  1 


M 


,:  i 


FT 


190 


UALIFORNU. 


It  is  impossible  for  those  who  have  not  been  or.  this 
coast  at  times  of  threatened  drouth,  to  realize  the  intense 
anxiety  which  prevails,  while  the  period  is  passing  during 
which  the  saving  rains  must  come,  if  at  all,  and  the  great 
rejoicing  which  their  timely  and  abundant  downfall  causes. 

At  the  foothills  I  met  a  discouraged  farmer  driving  his 
stock  into  a  field  of  stunted  grain.  I  called  his  attention  to 
the  moist  wind  blowing  from  the  south  and  the  gathering 
clouds,  but  he  had  given  up  all  hopes  of  rain,  even  sufficient 
for  a  hay  crop. 

Climbing  a  considerable  mountain,  I  descended  into  Bear 
Valley.  It  is  about  nine  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide,  rich 
and  pleasant,  and  occupied  by  forty  or  fifty  families,  engaged 
in  farming,  dairying  and  stock-raising.  Here  the  rains  had 
been  sufficient  to  keep  the  grass  green  and  promising. 

Proceeding  down  the  valley,  I  encountered  a  desperate 
tax  collector  who,  though  assured  that  I  was  a  stranger  simply 
passing  through  the  county,  pressed  his  demand  for  a  $2 
poll-tax,  until  I  was  compelled  to  intimate  my  disposition 
and  readiness  to  chastise  the  impudent  fellow,  before  he 
drove  on. 

Reaching  Sulphur  Creek,  I  followed  it  into  the  foot- 
hills to 


WILBUR  HOT  SPRINGS.  They  are  pleasantly  situ- 
ated in  the  southwestern  part  of  Colusa  County,  about  26 
miles  from  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railway,  at  Wil- 
liams, at  an  elevation  of  950  feet  above  the  sea. 

They  were  first  discovered  by  N.  C.  Simmons,  in  1863,  to 
whom  the  State  Agricultural  Society  granted  a  diploma  for 
the  superior  excellence  of  their  waters.  In  1871  they  were 
purchased  by  Dr.  Wilbur,  upon  whose  decease  they  came 
into  possession  of  Mr.  J.  S.  Brame,  their  present  owner. 
The  springs  are  eleven  in  number,  several  hot  sulphur,  and 
cold  iron  and  sulphur,  and  are  among  the  most  favorably 
known  on  the  coast  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dropsy,  salt 
rheum,  tetter  and  all  cutaneous,  blood  and  skin  diseases, 
the  poison  of  poison-oak,  dyspepsia,  catarrh  and  like  afflic- 
tions.    The  principal  hot  sulphur  spring  is  remarkable  for 


WILBUR   HOT  SPRINGS.  191 

its  strength  and  flow,  and  having  a  temperature  of  145^,  is 
considered  one  of  the  best  for  bathing  on  the  coast. 

The  grounds  comprise  120  acres,  improved  by  a  comfort- 
able home-like  hotel,  under  the  excellent  personal  manage- 
ment of  Mrs.  Brame  and  daughter,  who  provide  an  abundant 
table  of  all  the  good  things  in  their  season,  including  fresh 
butter,  milk  and  eggs  from  the  home  farm.  There  are  sev- 
eral furnished  cottages  for  renters,  ten  baths,  hot  and  cold, 
one  mud  bath,  a  pleasant  reading-room,  croquet  grounds  and 
good  fresh  water.  Deer,  quail  and  rabbit  are  found  in  the 
neighboring  hills.  Board,  from  $8  to  $12  per  week.  Route, 
C.  P.  R.  R.  to  Williams.  125  miles;  fare,  $6.75;  thence  by 
stage  26  miles,  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday;  fare,  $2.50. 

ANALYHIS  OF  SULrHUK  SPRING. 

Sulphuric  Acid 29.05 

Muriatic  Acid 19.30 

Hydroidic  Acid  7.10 

Sulphuret  Potash 34.50 

Soda  21.10 

Iron  20.19 

Alumina 0.48 

Free  Sulphur 30.07 

Returning  through  Bear  Valley  past  Gilmore  Post-office, 
the  pleasant  home  of  G.  M.  Gilmore,  I  again  turned  into  the 
mountains  at  B.  C.  Epperson's,  one  of  the  leading  farmers 
and  citizens  of  this  section.  Shipwrecked  on  the  ship 
"North  A.merica,"  on  the  coast  of  South  America,  in  1854, 
when  he  reached  San  Francisco  his  entire  estate,  personal 
and  real,  consisted  of  pants,  shirt,  hat  and  shoes,  and  three 
ten-cent  pieces.  He  is  now  the  happy  possessor  of  a  fine 
family,  of  wife,  boys  and  girls,  a  2000  acre  ranch  well  stocked 
witli  cattle  and  horses,  and  thoroughly  equipped  with  im- 
proved farm  machinery;  a  handsome  residence,  good  barns, 
a  valuable  toll -road — altogether  enough  to  satisfy  any  reason- 
able man. 

It  was  a  pretty  hard  climb  for  a  warm  day,  over  the 
mountain  divide  from  Bear  to  Indian  Valley.  The  latter  is 
about  eight  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of  less  than  a 
mile,  occupied  by  a  few  settlers  for  grazing  and  farming 
purposes.     I  have  aow  entered 


II 


«:-.; 

;«;. 


IS 


192 


CALIFORNIA. 


LAKE  COUNTY,  which  contains  the  most  numerous 
and  remarkable  mineral  springs  to  be  found  upon  any  equal 
area  of  the  American  Continent,  and  probably  in  the  world. 
Its  surface  is  chieHy  mountainous,  interspersed  with  beauti- 
ful valleys  aud  lakes,  a  wildly  picturesque  and  charming 
landscape.  Fir,  pine,  sprace  and  cedar  cover  the  summits 
of  the  mountains  and  their  higher  slopes,  meeting  the  oak 
at  the  foothills,  which  often  grow  in  park-like  groups  over 
the  handsome  green  valley  lands.  Laurel,  madrono,  ash, 
alder  and  other  woods  are  found  in  the  wild  caiions  along 
the  rapid  mountain  streams  and  bordering  the  hikes. 

It  is  one  of  the  great  natural  sanitariums  of  the  world, 
and  its  numerous  mineral  springs  and  mountain  health  and 
pleasure  resortit  are  thi'onged  with  visitors  from  early  sum- 
mer until  late  in  October.     Of  these,  I  first  visited 


THE  HOUGH  MINERAL  SPRINGS,  very  pleasantly 
situated  upon  Cache  Creek,  at  an  elevation  of  2000  feet 
above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  charming  scenery. 

They  were  first  discovered  about  eight  years  ago,  soon 
after  opened  to  the  public,  and  recently  purchased  by  Mr.  J. 
H.  Stratford,  who  has  made  extensive  improvements  for  the 
excellent  accommodation  of  150  guests.  These  comprise  a 
fine  commodious  hotel,  newly  furnished  throughout,  eight 
handsome  cottages,  a  dance  and  music  hall,  arbors,  walks, 
croquet  grounds,  swings,  etc.,  etc. 

The  grounds  contain  240  acres,  covered  with  splendid 
live  oak,  surrounded  and  sheltered  from  all  harsh  winds  by 
the  pine-clad  mountains. 

There  are  five  springs  at  present  developed,  iron,  mag- 
nesia aud  soda  being  their  most  prominent  ingredients, 
highly  recommended  for  the  cui'e  of  rheumatism,  dyspepsia 
and  malarial  disorders. 

There  is  also  an  abundant  supply  of  the  purest  mountain 
water,  andgood  hunting  and  troutfishing  in  the  neighborhood. 

Dr.  Linderberger,  an  experienced  physician,  resides  at 
the  springs. 

Board  and  room  from  |9  to  $10  per  week,  and  furnished 
cottages,  except  bedding,  at  $3. 


THE   BARTLETT  HPRINIIS. 


193 


Koute  from  San  Francisco  to  Williams,  and  tLenue,  32 
milea,  by  daily  stage. 

THE  CELEBRATED  ALLEN  MINERAL  SPRINGS, 
James  D.  Bailey,  owner  and  proprietor,  are  next  reached. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  inviting  of  all 
these  mountain  resorts,  situated  in  a  delightful  glen,  on  a  dash- 
ing mountain  stream  of  the  purest  water,  bordered  by  a  fine 
growth  of  spruce,  pine,  cedar,  laurel  and  other  forest  trees, 
and  spanned  by  rustic  walks  and  bridges. 

The  elevation  is  about  1700  feet  above  the  sea,  the  at- 
mosphere as  pure,  invigorating  and  healing  as  can  be  found 
in  the  world,  absolutely  free  from  all  malaria. 

Here,  in  this  delightful  npot,  in  close  proximity  to  each 
other,  nature  has  provided  soda,  chalybeate,  iron,  sulphur, 
and  other  medicinal  springs,  unsurpassed  for  the  cure  of 
dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  erysipelas,  chills  and 
fever,  kidney  and  skin  diseases. 

An  analysis  of  these  waters  by  Professor  Wenzell  of  San 
Francisco,  shows  chlorides  of  sodium,  magnesium,  potas- 
sium, bicarbonate  of  magnesium,  sodium,  calcium,  iron, 
silica  and  carbonic  acid,  to  be  their  principal  ingredients. 

There  are  excellent  facilities  for  hot  and  cold,  mineral 
and  fresh  water  baths. 

In  addition  to  a  good  hotel  accommodating  eighty-five 
guests  at  from  $9.50  to  $15  per  week,  there  is  quite  a  village 
of  pretty  cottages,  some  twenty  in  number,  provided  with 
stoves  and  furniture  for  housekeeping  for  renters;  and  also 
tine  camping  grounds. 

There  is  good  deer  hunting  and  trout  fishing  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

A  daily  stage  runs  to  and  from  the  springs,  which  are 
open  the  year  roimd,  to  Williams,  36  miles  distant,  on  the 
C.  P.  R.  R.,  125  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

BARTLETT  SPRINGS,  Lake  County,  California,  Bart- 
lett,  McMahou  &  Clarke,  proprietors.  The  Bartlett  Mineral 
Springs  are  delightfully  situated  iipou  Bartlett  Creek,  in 
Lake  County,  California,  at  an  elevation  of  3025  feet  above 


w 


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til 


IM 


CALIFORNIA. 


the  sea.  They  are  not  only  among  the  most  popular  Hud 
frequented  on  the  Pacific  coast,  but  with  but  little  eftbrt 
to  advertise  them  on  the  part  of  their  proprietors,  have 
already  acquired  a  national  reputation.  Though  first  taken 
up  for  their  medicinal  properties  by  Green  Bartlett,  a  pioneer 
hunter  and  one  of  their  present  owners,  in  the  year  1870, 
they  have  been  known  to  the  early  settlers  of  this  region  for 
over  thirty  years. 

The  principal  spring,  the  Bartlett,  is  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable I  have  visited,  not  only  for  the  volume  of  water 
flowing  from  it,  but  especially  for  comprising  in  an  unusual 
degree  healing  properties  with  agreeableness  as  a  beverage. 
Though  never  analyzed,  its  effects  have  been  careful! 
watched  by  skillful  physicians,  and  attested  by  its  hundred 
of  perman  :;nt  cures.  The  water  is  cold,  pleasant  to  the  taste, 
gently  cathartic,  decidedly  diuretic,  also  alternative,  and 
especially  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dropsy, 
all  kidney  and  skin  diseases,  female  complaints,  malarial 
disorders,  etc.  There  are  several  other  springs  in  the  near 
vicinity,  accessible  to  visitors,  including  two  soda,  one  iron 
and  magnesia,  and  a  sulphur  spring. 

A  finely  moulded  fountain  of  composite  stone  encloses 
the  Bartlett  Spring,  surrounded  by  a  broad,  handsome  pave- 
ment of  the  same  material.  Encircling  it  completely,  shel- 
tered by  the  picturesque  mountains,  is  quite  a  village  of 
hotels,  lodging  and  bathing  houses,  cottages,  cabins,  bil- 
liard, reading  and  music  halls,  stores,  post,  telegraph  and 
express  offices,  stables,  etc.,  etc.,  over  a  hundred  buildings 
in  all — affording  excellent  accommodations  for  175  guests, 
with  unlimited  room  for  campers.  During  the  summer 
months  this  great  health  and  pleasure  resort  is  full  to 
overflowing,  the  white  tents  covering  the  splendid  grounds 
like  the  bivouac  of  a  small  army. 

There  is  a  daily  stage  to  and  from  the  springs,  both  from 
Williams,  on  the  C.  P.  R.  R.,  and  Cloverdale,  on  the  N.  P. 
0.  R.  R.;  fare,  about  $10  from  San  Francisco. 

The  Summit  House  and  Happy  Camp  is  the  mountain 
home  of  the  brothers  William  and  Albert  Foutch,  who  have 
taken  up  homesteads  here,  built  a  saw-mill,  etc.     Happy 


THE    WITTEH   MINERAL   SPRINUS. 


105 


Cump,  II  fuvorito  resort  of  the  valley  people  duriug  the 
heated  term,  in  close  at  haiul.  Excellent  springs  of  water^ 
including  one  of  cold  suli)hur,  are  conveniently  near.  Mag- 
nificent views  of  the  surrounding  country  may  bo  obtained 
from  the  neighboring  peaks. 

Now  down  the  seven-mile  grade  of  their  western  slope  at  a 
rapid  pace,  out  of  the  pines  into  Clover  Valley,  a  pleasant 
green  stretch  of  furming  and  grazing  lands  about  two  miles 
long  and  one  and  a  half  miles  in  width.  Thence  through 
Bachelor  Valley,  more  extensive,  watered  by  Elk  and  Sucker 
Creeks,  when  turning  into  the  foothills  near  the  village  of 
Upper  Lake,  t'le  hotel  of 


i  !! 


i  !| 


THE  WITTER  MINERAL  SPRINGS  is  seen  in  the 
d' stance.  They  are  very  ])icturesquely  situated  upon  a  clear 
mountain  stream,  1500  feet  above  the  sea,  16  miles  from 
Lakeport,  and  44  miles  from  Clover  Valley. 

The  springs,  eight  in  numbei",  were  tirst  discovered  by 
Mr.  Burke,  in  1870,  developed  and  improved  by  Dr.  S.  Wit- 
ter, and  recently  purchased  by  Mr.  R.  S.  Emerson,  the 
present  owner. 

The  principal  and  most  popular  spring  is  known  as  the 
"Dead  Shot,"  on  account  of  its  efficiency  in  the  cui'e  of 
rheumatism,  skin  and  scrofula  diseases.  It  is  agreeable  to 
the  taste,  soda,  chlorides  of  sodium  and  potassium,  sulphates, 
lime,  magnesia  and  borax  being  its  chief  constituents. 

There  are  good  hotel  accommodations  for  40  giiests,  with 
charges  from  $6  to  $10  per  week,  and  13  cottages,  provided 
with  stoves  and  furniture,  for  renters.  The  grounds  com- 
prise 130  acres,  with  pleasant  shady  groves  of  native  trees, 
and  afford  a  delightful  view  of  Ulear  Lake  and  the  charm- 
ing surrounding  scenery. 

Analysis  of  Witter  Springs,  by  John  Hewston,  chemist, 
San  Francisco : 

One  ^ivllou  (iontnins  733%  i^rains  solid  constituents,  composed  of  Car- 
bonnteR  of  Soda,  Chlorides  of  Sodium  and  Potassinm,  small  quantities  of 
Sulphates,  traces  of  Lime  and  Maj^nesia,  and  a  considerable  ipiantity  of 
Borax. 


I 


196 


CALIFORNIA. 


PEARSON'S  MINERAL  SPRINGS.— Two  miles  along 
the  picturesque,  wooded  foot-hills,  and  I  descended  into  one 
of  the  most  charming  spots  of  this  entire  mountain  region. 
Nature  has  been  very  partial  in  locating  these  celebrated 
springs.  They  are  situated  in  Lake  County,  at  an  elevation 
1600  feet  above  the  sea,  in .  a  sunny,  sheltered  glen,  about 
three  miles  from  Blue  Lakes  and  thirteen  miles  from  Lake- 
port.  They  burst  forth  within  a  few  rods  of  each  other,  and 
close  to  the  main  hotel,  in  the  midst  of  a  singularly  inviting 
landscape. 

There  are  five  springs  developed — No.  1  iron,  No.  2  soda. 
No.  3  magnesia.  No.  4  sulphur,  and  No.  5  whisky,  and  have 
been  found  especially  efficacious  for  the  cure  of  catarrh,  pa- 
ralysis, rheumatism,  neuralgia,  liver  and  kidney  complaints, 
sick  headache,  scrofula  and  blood  diseases. 

They  not  only  possess  these  great  healing  viitues,  but 
the  Soda  Spring,  in  particular,  aflfords  a  cool,  sparkling,  de- 
licious beverage. 

These  springs  were  first  discovered  by  Pearson,  in  1870, 
and  are  now  owned  by  Mr.  Winfield  Scott  Wright,  of  Santa 
Rosa.  He  first  visited  them  as  an  invalid,  having  been 
nearly  blind  for  several  years.  He  derived  so  marked  a 
benefit  from  the  use  of  their  waters  that  he  determined  to 
purchase  the  property,  and  possessing  ample  means,  by  ex- 
tensive and  excellent  improvements,  has  made  it  what 
Nature  designed,  one  of  the  greatest  health  and  pleasure 
resorts  of  the  coast. 

There  are  excellent  hotel  accommodations  for  forty 
guests,  at  ten  dollars  per  week,  and  twenty,  three  and  four 
room  cottages,  furnished  with  stove,  cooking  utensils,  bed- 
steads, chairs  and  tables,  at  four  dollars  per  week,  including 
use  of  water. 

The  bathing  facilities  are  very  complete — hot,  cold,  steam 
and  plunge  baths — the  water  being  heated  to  any  desired 
temperature. 

Ic  is  a  popular  resort  for  campers — gume  and  fish  being 
abundant. 

There  is  iiu  unlimited  supply  of  excellent  fresh  water  on 
the  grounds. 


BLUE  LAKES   HOTEL. 


197 


The  climate  is  one  of  the  most  perfect;  the  extreme  heat 
of  mid-summer  never  oppressive  and  the  nights  always  cool. 

The  springs  are  very  accessible  by  an  excellent  carriage 
road,  over  which  the  most  sensitive  invalid  may  ride  without 
injury. 

The  surrounding  country  is  full  of  interest  for  the  tourist 
as  well  as  the  health-seeker. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Anderson,  the  resident  managers,  spare  no 
pains  to  promote  the  health  and  comfort  of  their  guests. 

In  addition  to  all  the  good  things  found  in  this  wonder- 
ful county,  the  table  is  supplied  with  the  best  of  butter, 
fresh  milk,  eggs  and  chickens  from  the  place. 

The  route  to  the  springs,  from  San  Francisco,  is  via  C, 
P.  R.  R.  to  Calistoga,  and  thence  by  stage.     Fare,  $9  75. 


BLUE  LAKES  HOTEL.  -This  delightful  summer  re- 
sort is  beauuifully  situated  in  Lake  County,  thirteen  miles 
from  Lakeport,  ue.ar  the  shore  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
lakes  in  the  world. 

Blue  Lakes  aro  famous,  even  among  the  many  other 
charming  lake  qems  of  this  region,  for  the  combined  attrac- 
tions whi.jli  they  afford  for  the  health-seeker,  tourist  and 
sportsman. 

They  lie  in  Blue  Lake  Caiion,  near  its  junction  with 
Scott  Valley,  at  an  elevation  of  2500  feet  above  the  sea; 
three  in  all — from  one  mile  to  two  aud  a  half  miles  long, 
clear  as  ci'ystal,  and  20  to  150  feet  in  depth,  full  of  trout, 
and  their  picturesque  shores  bordered  with  a  handsome 
growth  of  live  oak,  spruce,  white  oak  and  madrone. 

The  neighboring  forests  abound  with  game— deer,  rab- 
bits, quail  and  pigeons. 

The  property,  comprising  320  acres,  is  improved  with  a 
fine  hotel  aud  handsome  cottages,  accommodating  from  forty 
to  fifty  guests. 

The  water  is  excellent,  and  a  white  sulphur  spring  bursts 
forth  on  the  grounds. 

The  climate  is  unsurpassed — healthful  and  invigorating; 


198 


CALIFORNIA. 


and,  altogether,  this  is  one  of  the  most  inviting  suruLer  re- 
sorts on  the  coast. 

Mr.  Theodore  Deming,  the  owner,  spares  no  pains  to 
make  his  gaests  at  home,  meeting  them  at  Lakeport  with 
his  own  excellent  team,  and  personally  attending  to  their 
wants. 

The  Bertha  Post  Office  is  at  the  hotel,  with  a  daily  mail. 

Routes,  via  Calistoga  and  Lakeport,  and  Cloverdale  and 
Lakeport.     Fare,  from  San  Francisco,  $8.00. 

The  following  morning  I  visited 


HIGHLAND  SPRINGS  SANITARIUM,  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  watering-places,  summer  and  winter  health 
and  pleasure  resorts  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

It  is  delightfully  situated  amidst  landscapes  of  ex- 
ceeding beauty,  and  highly  improved  with  elegant  hotels 
cottages  and  bathing  facilities,  for  the  first-class  accommo- 
dation of  150  guests,  under  the  immediate  supervision  of 
their  owner,  Dr.  C.  M.  Bates,  a  skillful  physician,  assisted 
by  Mrs.  E.  R.  Worth,  a  most  excelle.it  housekeeper. 

The  table  is  supplied  with  all  the  luxuries  of  the  season, 
including  the  choicest  of  fresh  ruilk,  butter  and  eggs  from 
the  home  farm. 

The  extensive  grounds  are  finely  laid  out  with  handsome 
lawns,  shady  walks  and  drives,  croquet  grounds,  swings,  etc. 

A  splendid  trout  stream  flows  through  the  place,  and 
game  abounds  in  the  neighboring  hills. 

The  climate  is  as  near  perfection,  the  year  round,  both 
for  healthfulness  and  enjoyment,  as  can  be  found  in  the 
world. 

There  are  more  than  twenty  rai".eral  springs,  possessing 
various  medicinal  properties,  and  highly  recommended  for 
their  healing  virtues. 

The  following  is  the  analysis  ot  the  most  popular,  known 
as  the  Seltzer,  Dutch  and  Magic  Springs,  by  Prof.  Rising  of 
the  University  of  California  : 


LAKE  COUNTY  MINERAL  SPRINGS.  199 

Names  of  HprinRs.  beltzeb.  dtjtor.  HAoia 

Teinpernturo 64. 8°  F.  70.5°  F.  82.4°  F. 

gr.  per  gal.  gr.  iwr  gal.  gr.  per  gal. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 0 .  723  1 .  862  1 .  290 

Bicaibobate  of  Soda 12 .  796  18 .  348  2J .  763 

Bicarbonate  of  Potash 0 .  489  0 .  770  0 .  544 

Bicarbonate  of  Lime 52 .  015  57 .  302  50 .  411 

Bicarbonate  of  Magnesia..  34.872  67.634  70.243 

Bicarbonate  of  Iron 1267  1.341  1.087 

Bicarbonate  of  Manganese .      trace  trace  trace 

Silica 5.245  7.126  7.398 

Alumina 1.565  0.117  0.169 

Organic  Matter trace  trace  trace 

Free  Carbonic  Acid 100 .  250  87 .  822  74 .  462 

Total 209.252  242.321  227. 3G7 

Soon  after  leaving  Highland  Springs  by  a  trail,  I  came  to 
the  forks  of  tAvo  mountain  streams,  swollen  to  an  unusual 
volume  from  three  to  five  feet  in  depth  by  the  heavy  raiiis 
of  the  previous  night  and  running  like  mill-races.  After 
.several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  cross,  I  at  length  succeeded, 
barely  escaj^ing  being  swept  down  by  the  strong  current. 
Safely  over,  I  wrung  out  my  clothing  and  proceeded  five 
miles  through  Big  Valley  to  Kelseyville,  four  miles  from 

SODA  BAY,  a  favorite  resort,  situated  on  the  shore  of 
Clear  Lake.  The  same  evening  I  reached  Glenbrook,  pass- 
ing through  a  picturesque  pine-bordered  valley  known  as 
Cobb's,  about  five  miles  in  length  and  one-half  a  mile  in 
width,  occupied  for  daiiying  and  farming. 


GLENBROOK  OR  BASSLITT'S,  for  seventeen  years 
the  homo  of  W.  D.  Bussett,  a  California  pioneer,  and  also  a 
favorite  summer  resort,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  dashing 
trout  stream  called  Kelsey  Creek,  278G  feet  above  the  sea, 
twenty-eigK  miles  from  Calistoga,  eleven  miles  from  Kelsey- 
ville, three  miles  from  Adams  Springs,  and  six  from 
Howard's  and  Seigler's. 

The  property,  embracing  a  fine  tract  of  480  acres,  is  ex- 
tensively improved  with  an  exceptionally  good  hotel,  a  large 
airy  dining-hall,  several  handsome  cottages,  bath  house,  etc., 
for  the  accommodation  of  100  guests. 


mm 


200 


CALIFORNIA. 


A  large  dairy  supplies  the  best  of  butter  and  milk,  the 
farm  and  garden  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  air  is  the 
purest,  water  excellent,  and  game  abounds  in  the  surround- 
ing pine-wooded  hills. 

Mr.  Bassett  keeps  a  good  liverj'  of  splendid  horses. 

About  six  miles  from  Glenbrook,  through  a  rolling  pine- 
wooded  country,  and  I  reached 

SEIGi.ER  SPRINGS,  Mr.  F.  McCuUough,  proprie- 
tor.— None  of  the  numerous  mineral  spring  sanitariums  of 
this  section  impressed  me  more  favorably,  both  as  to  attract- 
iveness of  situation  and  excellence  of  waters,  than  Seigler's. 

They  are  beautifully  situated  on  the  open,  sunny  slope  of 
Seigler  Mountains,  2800  feet  above  the  sea,  about  32  miles 
from  Calistoga,  13  miles  from  Kelseyville,  and  six  miles  from 
Lower  Lake. 

A  tract  of  twenty  or  thirty  acres  is  covered  with  springs, 
of  any  desired  temperature  to  130  -  Fahrenheit,  with  a  choice 
of  iron  water,  soda,  magnesia,  sulphur,  arsenic,  silica,  or  the 
purest  mountain  water. 

For  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  gout,  drops}-^,  dyspepsia, 
chills  and  fever,  liver  and  kidney  complaints,  skin  diseases 
and  impurities  of  the  blood  generally  they  are  very  highly 
recommended. 

The  improvements  are  extensive,  embracing  an  excellent 
hotel,  accommodating  75  guests,  several  fine  cottages,  first- 
class  bathing  facilities,  including  three  warm  plunge  baths, 
and  a  very  large  swimming  pool. 

The  property  embraces  a  splendid  tract  of  800  acres, 
finely  wooded,  with  black  and  white  oak,  affording  guests 
an  excellent  range  for  hunting  and  fishing,  without  trespass- 
ing on  the  neighboring  estates. 

The  hotel  is  open  the  year  i*ound,  its  stage  making  con- 
nection with  stages  at  Lower  Lake  Monday,  Wednesday 
and  Friday,  and  at  Glenbrook  Tuesday,  Thui'sday  and 
Saturday. 

HOWARD  HOT  AND  COLD  MINERAL  SPRINCC. 

These  celebrated  sjjrings,  owned  by  Mrs.  Caroline  Heisch, 
are  veiy  pleasantly  situated  in  Seiglor  Valley,  Lake  County, 


THE   BONANZA    MINERAL    SPRINGS. 


201 


at  an  elevation  of  2220  feet  above  the  sea,  six  miles  from 
Glenbrook,  about  the  same  distance  from  Lower  Lake,  and 
30  miles  from  Calistoga. 

There  are  fourteen  springs,  hot  and  cold,  ranging  in 
temperature  from  58°  to  109°  Fah.,  very  highly  endorsed  for 
the  cure  of  dropsy,  rheumatism,  gout,  catarrh,  dyspepsia, 
scrofula,  liver  and  kidney  complaints,  skin  and  blood  dis- 
eases, chills  and  malarial  fever. 

The  situation  is  very  inviting,  the  climate  excellent  and 
accommodations  first-class, 

Besides  a  good  hotel,  with  rooms  for  140  guests,  at  from 
110  to  $12  per  week,  there  are  twelve  cosy  cabins,  furnished 
with  stoves,  to  rent  from  $3  to  $4  per  week. 

There  are  six  hot  and  cold  baths  and  one  plunge  bath, 
with   a  choice   of    water  from  iron,    magnesia  or  sulphur 
springs. 

The  property  comprises  160  acres,  supplying  the  hotel 
with  milk,  butter,  eggs  and  vegetables. 

There  are  good  camping  grounds,  free  to  all,  with  a 
charge  of  $1.00  per  week  for  bath's. 

There  is  good  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  neighborhood. 

A  stage  from  the  springs  meets  visitors  at  Lower  Lake 
Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday,  and  at  Glenbrook  Tues- 
day^  Thursday  and  Saturday,  enabling  them  to  go  through 
from  San  Francisco  in  one  day. 


THE  BONANZA  MINERAL  SPRINGS,  Mr.  H.  Fern, 
owner  and  proprietor,  are  very  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
sunny,  sheltered  side  of  Seiglor  Mountain,  near  Patah 
Creek,  in  Lake  County,  at  an  elevation  of  3600  feet  above 
the  sea,  about  one  mile  from  Howard's  and  Seigler's,  two 
miles  from  Adams',  eight  miles  from  Lower  Lake,  six  miles 
from  Glenbrook  and  thirty  miles  from  Calistoga. 

There  are  ten  springs,  iron,  soda,  magnesia,  sulphur  and 
borax  both  cold  and  warm,  of  unsurpassed  healing  virtues. 

The  situation,  amidst  the  open,  pine-clad,  rolling  hills 
is  very  inviting;    climate  delightful,  about   10°   cooler  in 
summer  than  in  the   valleys;    water   excellent,  and  game 
abundant. 


202 


CALIFORNIA. 


There  are  very  comfortable  hotel  accommodations,  at 
from  $10  to  $12  per  week,  and  several  pretty  furnished  cot- 
tagePj  rented  from  $3  to  14.60  per  week,  including  baths. 

The  housekeeping  and  cooking  is  under  the  personal 
management  of  Mrs.  Fern  and  daughters. 

There  are  splendid  grounds  for  campers,  who  are 
charged  fifty  cents  per  week,  and  one  dollar  for  six  bath 
tickets. 

Mr.  Fern  meets  visitors  with  his  own  team  at  either 
Glenbrook  or  Lower  Lake,  as  requested. 

ADAMS'  SPRINGS,  among  the  most  favorably  known 
on  +.he  coast,  their  waters  being  exported  for  consumption 
abroad,  are  next  visited. 

They  are  situated  on  Big  Carion  Creek,  in  Lake  County, 
at  an  elevation  of  3300  feet  above  the  sea,  about  31  miles 
from  Calistoga  and  10  miles  from  Lower  Lake. 

The  springs,  five  in  number,  and  cold,  were  discovered 
about  seven  years  ago,  and  are  now  owned  by  F.  A.  Miller, 
Esq. 

They  are  highly  recommended  for  the  cure  of  rheu- 
tism,  dropsy,  scrofula,  weak  lungs,  dyspepsia,  costiveness, 
liver,  kidney  and  all  blood  diseases. 

There  are  good  hotel  accommodations  for  forty  guests, 
at  from  $10  to  $12  per  week;  seven  furnished  cottages,  from 
$2.50  per  week,  and  excellent  camping  grounds,  at  $1.00  per 
week,  including  use  of  water. 

There  is  good  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  neighborhood. 
Butter,  milk  and  eggs  and  chickens  are  furnished  from  the 
place. 

Mr.  Miller  also  pastures  horses  at  $1.00  per  week,  from 
the  middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  November. 

The  best  route  to  the  springs,  from  San  Francisco,  is  by 
C.  P.  R.  R.,  foot  of  Market  Street,  to  Lakeport,  and  thence 
by  stage.     Fare,  $6.50. 

Analysis  by  Prof.  Thomas  Price  of  San  Francisco.  One 
gallon  contains  the  following : 


THE   HAUBIN  HOT  SULPHUR   SPRINGS. 


203 


Carbonate  of  lime 28.7U  grains. 

magnesia 99.022 

"  soda 57.03G 

"  iron 517 

Chloride  of  Hodiiim 4.112 

Silica 7.218 

Organic  matter 2.811 

Salt  of  potash traces  only. 

Nitric  acid "         " 


Total  solid  contents  per  gallon 199.430  groins. 

From  Adams  Springs,  I  followed  a  bliad  trail  until  I  lost 
it  on  the  summit  of  a  rugged  mountain,  sparsely  covered 
with  pine,  overlooking  a  picturesque  valley  on  the  south; 
then  taking  a  bee-line  down  its  steep  side  for  buildings  seen 
in  the  distance,  in  about  an  hour,  I  came  to  a  grist-mill  on 
the  bank  of  a  beautiful  stream,  and  soon  after  reached 


1 


THE  CELEBEA.TED  HABBIN  HOT  SULPHUR 
SPRINGS.  They  are  charmingly  situated  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Coast  Range  of  Mountains  in  Lake  County, 
1700  feet  above  the  sea,  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  vil- 
lage of  Middletown,  and  twenty-one  miles  from  Calistoga. 

The  springs  first  discovered  over  twenty  years  ago,  and 
successively  owned  by  Capt.  Ritchie,  James  Harbin  and 
Richard  Williams  (deceased),  are  now  the  property  of  Mr. 
William  Williams,  and  under  his  excellent  personal  man- 
agement, ably  assisted  by  his  associate,  Mr.  Thomas  Mat- 
thews. 

They  are  unsurpassed  on  the  Pacific  coast  for  the  cura- 
tive virtues  of  their  waters,  attractiveness  of  situation,  en- 
joyableness  and  salubrity  of  climate,  extent  and  excellence 
of  improvements,  and  number  of  people  resorting  there  the 
year  round  for  health  and  pleasure. 

Among  these  remarkable  springs  is  one  known  as  the 
Arsenic,  having  a  temperature  of  108^,  a  hot  iron  and  sul- 
phur spring,  temperature  120'^,  and  cold  iron  and  magnesia 
springs,  bursting  forth  near  each  other,  with  an  inexhausti- 
ble flow  of  water,  unexcelled  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism, 
neuralgia,  dropsy,  kidney,  liver  and  blood  diseases  and  all 
skin  and  cutaneous  affections. 


Mm 

m 


4i.. 


204 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  accommodations  are  of  the  most  complete  character 
throughout,  and  amply  sufficient  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
guests. 

Besides  the  large  main  hotel,  comprising  the  office, 
reading  room,  dining  halls,  and  a  fine  annex,  called  "The 
Capital,"  with  twenty  elegant  apartments,  there  is  quite  a 
village  of  handsome  white  cottages,  known  as  the  "Tom 
Collins"  cottage,  the  "Bartlett,"  "Fern,"  "Yuba,"  "What 
Cheer,"  "  Fourth  of  July,"  "Pine  Mills  "  and  "  Rose  "  cot- 
tages, containing  from  two  to  five  neatly  furnished  rooms 
each,  opening  on  to  broad  verandas,  facing  the  pleasant,  sunny 
grounds. 

The  bathing  facilities,  originally  consisting  of  a  single 
hollow  log,  are  now  among  the  most  extensive  and 
complete  found  on  the  coast,  comprising  about  twenty 
separate  baths,  including  five  plunge  baths,  with  a  choice 
of  water  from  the  several  springs,  hot  sulphur  and  iron  and 
hot  arsenic,  at  any  temperature  desired  to  120  . 

There  is  also  an  excellent  mud  bath  and  cold  shower 
baths  ad  libitum. 

The  various  apartments  were  found  exceptionably  clean 
and  well  furnished,  and  I  was  informed  that  separate  baths 
were  set  apart  for  the  exclusive  use  of  a  certain  class  of 
patients. 

The  springs  property  embraces  a  fine  tract  of  several 
hundred  acres,  and  comprises,  besides  the  improvements 
mentioned,  a  dairy,  trout  fishery,  fruit  and  vegetable  gar- 
den, etc.,  etc.,  supplying  the  table  with  the  choicest  fresh 
butter,  milk,  eggs,  fowl,  fish,  etc. 

Game,  deer,  rabbit,  quail,  pigeons  and  grouse  are  found 
in  the  valley  and  neighboring  hills. 

A  daily  stage  connects  with  trains  at  Calistoga.  Fai-e, 
$6.00  from  San  Francisco. 

The  springs  are  open  the  year  round,  with  rates  from 
$12  to  $15  per  week.    From  Harbin's  I  proceeded  to 


ANDERSON'S  SPRINGS,  owned  by  Anderson  &  Pa- 
triqiiin.  They  arc  very  jjictunsqu-.^ly  sitatitcd  on  Pntah 
Creek,  Lake  County,  about  five  miles  from  Middletown  and 
19  miles  from  Calistoga. 


THE   GEYSERS. 


ao6 


There  are  numerous  hot  uud  cold  springs,  in  which  iron, 
sulphur  and  magnesia  predominate,  well  recommended  for 
the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  dropsy,  etc.,  and  a  re- 
markable natural  steam  bath.. 

A  fifteen-room  hotel  and  four  cottages  afford  good  ac- 
commodations for  about  fifty  guests,  at  from  $10  to  $15  per 
week. 

The  house  farm  supplies  fresh  butter,  eggs,  etc. 


MILLS'  MINERAL  SPRINGS.— I  next  visited  Mills 
Mineral  Springs,  discovered  by  Mr.  0.  H.  Mills,  the  owner, 
in  1879. 

They  are  situated  in  the  foot-hills,  about  a  mile  above 
Anderson's,  at  an  elevation  of  2500  feet  abo^e  the  sea,  and 
comprise  one  hot  sn.lphur,  soda,  sulphur  and  magnesia 
springs;  temperature,  170^;  two  hot  iron,  soda  and  magne- 
sia, 170^,  and  one  cold  white  sulphur,  of  highly  approved 
medicinal  virtues  for  the  healing  of  rheumatism,  kidney 
and  skin  diseases,  dyspepsia,  dropsy  and  kindred  com- 
plaints. 

The  property  comprising  160  acres,  well  watered  by 
mountain  springs,  affords  excellent  advantages  for  campers. 

There  is  good  hunting  and  trout  fishing  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

The  hotel  charges  are  $10  per  week. 

Climbing  up  the  steep  side  of  Cobb  Mountain,  I  found  a 
large  spring  of  sulphur  and  alum  water  on  the  summit, 
near  the  cabin  of  an  old  mountaineer  and  guide,  David 
Harrington. 

Prom  thence  I  descended  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
mountain  about  two  miles  to 


m 


THE  LITTLE  GEYSERS,  comprising  a  remarkable 
collection  of  boiling  hot  pools,  in  a  state  of  constant  and 
violent  agitation,  emitting  sulphuric  and  other  vapors, 
accompanied  in  places  by  smothered  sounds  and  feeble 
spouts. 

They  afford  unusual  facilities  for  hot  sulphur  baths  of 
any  desired  temperature. 


206 


CALIFORNIA. 


There  are  no  hotel  ucoommodutious  here  at  preuent,  but 
oxi;olleMt  grounds  for  camping. 

These  Geysers  are  accessible  by  wagon  roads  via  Calis- 


toga  or  Cloverdale. 


THE  BIG  GEYSERS.  —  Following  down  a  swollen, 
roaring  mountain  stream,  the  Little  Pluton,  about  six  miles, 
late  at  night,  the  white  sulphurous  vapors  rising  from,  and 
floating  among  the  rugged  hills  on  the  right,  announced  the 
Big  Geysers,  which  rank  with  the  Yosemite  and  Big  Trees  as 
the  greatest  ixatural  wonders  of  the  Golden  State.  They  are 
situated  in  Sonoma  County,  at  an  elevation  of  1700  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  present  the  appearance  of  a  mountain  of 
slacking  lime,  its  sides  throbbing  with  intense  heat,  pouring 
out  great  volumes  of  hot  water  and  steam,  accompanied  in 
many  places  with  bubblings,  sputterings,  hollow  mutter- 
ings  and  feeble  spouts,  suggestive  of  the  mighty  pent-up 
forces  below. 

Early  next  morning  I  was  exploring  this  remarkable  nat- 
ural laboratory,  and  nearly  scalding  my  hands  by  thrusting 
them  into  the  Devil's  Teakettle,  Devil's  Oven,  Devil's 
Kitchen,  Witches'  Cauldron,  and  many  other  hot  places, 
suggestive  of  the  abode  of  his  Satanic  majesty.  By  com- 
mon consent,  the  ''old  fellow "  reigns  supreme  here.  His 
establishment  comprises  also  the  "Devil's  Arm  Chair," 
"Devil's  Inkstand,"  "  Devil's  Machine  Shop,"  "Devil's 
Post  Office"  and  "Devil's  Pulpit;"  and  as  Major  Ben.  Tru- 
man says,  "  it  is  a  devil  of  a  place  anyhow." 

I  concluded  my  investigations  by  following  down  the 
River  Styx,  through  "Devil's  Canon,"  often  enveloped  in 
thick  clouds  of  hot  sulphurous  vapors,  which  rose  from  the 
boiling  pools  around  me. 

Of  springs,  there  is  no  end,  with  a  volume  of  water  suf- 
ficient, hot  and  strong  enough  with  alkalis,  soda,  salts,  sul- 
phur, ammonia  etc.,  to  clean  even  the  most  corrupt  Dem- 
ocratic or  Republican  politician. 

There  are  extensive  bathing  facilities  with  a  choice  of 
water  from  iron,  soda,  sulphur,  ammonia,  magnesia,  Epsom 
salts,  alum,  saltpeter,  borax  and  other  8[) rings,  ranging  in 
temperature  from  60^  to  195^  Fahrenheit. 


.Sh'AGfiS'  HOT   SPRfm/S. 


207 


THE  GKEAT  GEY8ER  HOTEL,  Win.  Forsyth,  Esq., 
proprietor,  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  complete  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  affording  first-chiss  accommodations  for  150 
guests. 

There  are  Two  Routes  to  the  Geysers,  one  via.  Central 
Pacific  to  Calistoga,  and  thence  by  the  Foss  stages,  25  miles, 
or  by  the  North  Pacific  Railroad,  90  miles  to  Cloverdale,  and 
tliunoe  1()  miles  by  Kennedy's  stages,  both  through  scenery 
of  unsurpassed  beauty  and  interest. 

Crossino  the  Anory  Pluton. — It  is  about  16  miles  from 
the  Big  Goyser.s  to  Cloverdale,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
San  Francisco  and  North  Pacific  Railway,  by  an  ordinarily 
splendid  stage  road,  amidst  the  most  picturesque  and  charm- 
ing landscape. 

The  Pluton  was  still  "  booming,"  so  deep  and  swift  tliat 
I  had  searched  in  vain  for  several  miles  for  a  place  where  it 
would  not  be  too'extremely  hazardous  to  attempt  to  ford  it. 
Fortunately  when  near  the  regular  stage  crossing,  I  met  a 
horseman,  Edward  Heald,  a  young  man  from  Cloverdale, 
who  very  kindly  offered  to  turn  back  and  tako  me  over.  So 
mounting  his  horse  behind  him,  the  noble  animal  bore  us 
safely  over  the  raging  flood. 

SKAGGS'  HOT  SPRINGS,  one  of  the  most  popular 
health  and  pleasure  resorts  of  this  region,  are  very  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  eastern  foothills  of  the  Coast  Range,  in 
Sonoma  County,  about  eight  miles  west  of  Geyserville  Sta- 
tion on  the  San  Francisco  and  North  Pacific  Coast  Railroad. 

The  climate  is  unsurpassed  for  equability  and  salubrity, 
and  the  surrounding  landscape  very  picturesque  and  in- 
viting. 

Game  abounds  in  the  neighboring  hills,  and  the  moun- 
tain streams  aft'ord  good  trout  fishing. 

There  are  extensive  and  excellent  hotel  and  cottage 
accommodations  and  bathing  facilities  for  200  guests,  at 
from  $12  to  $14  per  week.  An  abundant  supply  of  fresh 
milk,  butter  and  eggs  is  furnished  by  the  home  farm. 

The  springs  were  discovered  in  1856,  and  improved  by 


'■'■'-] 


208  CALIFORNIA. 

Mr.  A.  Skaggs,  the  present  owner  and  proprietor,  in  1857. 
Their  Huw  of  water  ia  estimated  at  fifteen  gallons  per 
miuuto,  liaving  a  temperature  of  120'  Fah. 

Thoy  lire  especially  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  rheuma- 
tism, rheumatic  gout,  lumbago,  sciatica,   neuralgia,  hv 
chitis,  asthma,  and  diseases  of  the  bladder  and  kid^'' 

There  is  telephonic  and  telegraphic  communication  to 
all  points,  and  a  post  and  express  office  at  the  hotel. 

A  daily  stage  connects  with  trains  at  Geyserville . 

Analysis  by  Prof.  Eug.  W.  Hilgartl,  Professor  of  Agri- 
cultural Chemistry,  University  of  California. 

In  lO.WK)  Parts.      Uralna  per  Oal. 

Chloride  of  potfWHium 0.03  j  0.200 

Sulphate  of  potaBslnm 0.043  0.200 

Chloride  of  Hodinm 1.012  5.000 

Iodide  of  Hodium  Trace.  Trace. 

Bi-carbonate  of  sodium  27.672  1C1.270 

Bi  borate  of  sodium  borax 4.542  2(5.470 

Carbonate  of  lithium 0.010  0.060 

Carbonate  of  barium 0.040  0.240 

Carbonate  of  strontium ...  0.004  0  024 

Carbonate  of  calcium       0.377  2.197 

Carbonate  of  magnesium  O.l'Jl  11. 113 

Carbonate  of  iron 0.000  0.054 

■  Alumina 0.004  0.004 

Silica  1.205  7.023 


Total  solid  ingredients . 


.35.144 


205.215 


LITTON  SPRINGS  AND  COLLEGE.  -  Foor  miles 
further  down  this  beautiful  valley  brought  me  to  the  celebra- 
ted Litton  Seltzer  and  Soda  Springs,  delightfully  situated 
at  the  foot-hills  of  the  Coast  Range,  amidst  the  most  charm- 
ing scenery  imaginable. 

The  springs  are  three  in  number — seltzer  and  soda,  soda 
and  iron, and  sulphur ;  the  water  of  the  former  having  acquired 
such  a  reputation  as  to  demand  its  shipment  in  large  quan- 
tities for  consumption  abroad. 

The  property  comprises  300  acres  of  high,  gently  rolling 
liirids,  lightly  wooded  with  handsome  iive  oak,  and  highly 
iiuproved  with  ten  excellent  hotel  and  cottage  buildings, 
orchards,  vineyards  and  spacious  lawns. 


LITTON  HPniNdS. 


209 


BeHiduH  iibnndunt  fruit,  free  tu  till,  a  liume  cluu-y  fur- 
itmhus  tho  table  with  the  uhoiuuHt  butter  und  milk. 

The  water  supply  is  unlimited,  drainage  excellent,  and 
location  une  uf  the  most  healthful  in  the  Utate. 

Since  1880,  this  highly  favored  s[)ot  has  been  the  seat  of 
the  Litton  Springs  College,  one  of  the  best  conducted  insti- 
tutions of  learning  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

There  are  at  present  about  80  young  men  in  attendance 
under  the  able  instruction  of  Prof.  John  Gamble,  President, 
and  his  assistants,  Profs.  G.  W.  Kret/inger,  R.  T.  Belcher, 
8.  H.  Shakspeare,  Mrs.  J.  Gamble,  Emil  Lerch  and  W.  M. 
France. 

In  heiilthfulness,  beauty  and  convenience  of  situation  it 
is  most  admirably  adapted  for  a  popular  resort  for  educa- 
tion, health  and  pleasure. 

The  N.  P.  C.  R.  R.  depot  is  within  one-third  of  a  mile 
of  tho  grounds,  (V.)  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Veuy  Duunk  on  nothino  but  Wine. — En  route  to  Calis- 
toga,  for  tho  purpose  of  crossing  tho  swollen  streams,  I  found 
it  desirable  to  keep  company  with  a  German  vineyardist, 
homeward  bound,  with  u  wagon  load  of  farming  and  house- 
hold utensils.  Tho  roads  were  almost  impassable  in  places, 
and  in  proportion  as  they  grow  difficult,  my  jolly  companion 
diew  on  a  great  demijohn  of  wine,  until  at  length  he  got  very 
diunk,  and  soon  after  drove  into  a  deep  slough  hole,  and 
there  stuck  fast.  I  was  thou  obliged,  in  spite  of  his  pro- 
tests, to  assume  command,  and  by  tearing  down  the  fences, 
unloading  the  wagon,  and  hard  pulling  and  lifting,  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  through. 

It  is  greatly  to  be  deplored,  that  one  of  California's  most 
important  industries  should  promote  and  depend  for  its 
prosperity  upon  the  increase  of  intemperance  in  this  and 
other  lands. 

The  Wondeuful  Petuified  Fokebt. — About  five  miles 
from  Calistoga,  towarel  Santa  Rosa,  I  reached  the  little  cot- 
tage of  Mrs.  Ryder,  the  resident  owner  of  this  great  natural 
wonder.  Upon  learning  the  object  of  my  visit,  I  was  shown 
the  gate  opening  into  the  forest.     Without  difficulty  I  fol- 


ii 


210 


CALIFORNIA. 


lowed  the  well-beateu  paths,  leading  to  these  remarkable 
specimens  of  petrifaction;  enormous  trunks  of  the  redwood, 
one,  the  "  Pride  of  the  Forest,"  11|  feet  in  diameter  and 
over  60  feet  in  length,  changed  to  solid  stone. 

They  are  all  lying  down,  many  of  them  having  been  cov- 
ered with  several  feet  of  earth. 

The  forest  was  first  discovered  by  hunters  in  1871,  taken 
as  a  Government  claim  by  Charles  Evans  in  1872,  and  soon 
after  opened  to  the  public. 

Five  miles  further  down  Mark  West  Creek,  through  a 
picturesque,  mountainous  country,  and  late  at  night,  I 
arrived  at 

THE  MABK  WEST  HOT  SULPHUR  SPRINGS,  John 
Simpson,  proprietor,  one  of  the  most  popular  health  resorts 
of  Sonoma  County.  They  are  beautifully  situated,  700  feet 
above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  Mounts  Washington,  Lincoln 
and  Grant,  and  are  unexcelled  in  the  State  for  the  cure  of 
rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  kidney,  liver  and  kindred  diseases. 
There  are  excellent  hotel  and  cottage  accommodations,  and 
bathing  facilities  for  150  guests. 

Splendid  drives,  and  good  huuting  and  fishing  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Guests  are  received  all  the  year  round,  and  met  with 
carriage  or  stage  at  Calistoga,  ten  miles,  or  ai  Siinta  Rosa, 
nine  miles  distant. 

THE  CELEBRATED  BYRON  HOT  SPRINGS,  Mv. 
L.  R.  Mead,  of  San  Francisco,  owner,  are  situated  on  tho 
lower  foothills  of  the  Diablo  range  of  Mountains,  in  Contra 
Costa  County,  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Byiou  Statiois,  on 
the  line  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.,  68  miles,  or  tliree  hours'  ride 
from  San  Francisco. 

These  springs  have  been  resorted  to  for  tiieir  healing 
virtues  by  the  native  tribes,  from  times  immemorial.  The 
ruins  of  an  old  Indian  village,  including  thoir  |)laco  of 
burial,  is  still  visible  near  by.  It  is  howover.  (Uily  within 
the  last  few  years  that  their  many  miraculous  ijui'es  have 
brought   them   into  conspicuous   public   notice   and  given 


TIIE    VELKBllATElJ    liYLON    HOT   SPRINOS. 


211 


them  a  first  place  among  the  great  sanitariums  of  the  coast, 
especially  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  liver  and 
kidney  complaints,  impurities  of  the  blood,  and  all  skin 
diseases. 

They  comprise,  so  far  as  known,  fifteen  different 
waters,  including  hot  and  cold  salt,  hot  and  cold  sulphur, 
and  different  combinations  of  salt  and  sulphur,  with  mag- 
nesia and  iron,  both  hot  and  cold.  Of  these  remarkable 
springs,  one  known  as  the  "  Surprise,"  composed  mainly  of 
chloride  of  sodium  and  sulphate  of  magnesia,  has  acquired 
great  notoriety  on  account  of  its  cleansing,  recuperative  and 
rejuvenating  influence  upon  the  system,  prostrated  by  the 
excessive  nge  of  alcoholic  drinks. 

Both  in  analysis  and  in  their  action,  these  waters  are 
almost  identical  with  the  celebrated  Carlsbad  of  Bohemia, 
Austria. 

The  bathing  facilities  are,  with  one  or  two  exceptions, 
the  most  complete  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Nearly  every  form 
of  bath  required  can  be  had — the  hot  mud  and  hot  salt  baths 
being  the  principal  ones.  For  the  latter,  the  water  emer- 
ging at  a  temperature  of  120  Far.,  is  conducted  in  iron 
pipes  to  the  new  spacious  bath  house,  where  it  is  tempered 
to  any  degree  to  suit  the  requirement  of  the  patient. 

The  spring  waters,  for  drinkin;"  purposes,  comprising 
both  warm  and  old,  are  hardly  less  remarkable  than  those 
used  more  <T>pecially  for  bathing. 

Among  them  is  one  called  the  L.  &  K.  (Livir  t  Kidney) 
Spring,  named  l>y  a  well-known  gentleman  of  Bar.vamento, 
whom  it  cured  of  liver  complaint  of  long  stan^  iing. 

There  is  also  one  spring,  which  from  its  similarity  of 
taste,  is  known  as  the  Chicken  Broth  Spring.  This  is  gently 
cathartic,  and  also  an  appetizer.     • 

The  springs  are  open  both  Avinter  and  summer — the 
bath-house  being  heated  during  the  winter — a  carriage  from 
the  hotel  meeting  every  train  ut  Byron  Station.  Not  only 
the  wonderful  curative  properties  of  tlio  waters,  but  their  ac- 
cessibility, being  situated  so  near  San  Francisco  by  an  all- 
rail  route,  combine  to  make  them  the  great  health  i-esort  of 
this  region. 


"31 


»i 


212 


CALIFORNIA. 


TUSCAN  SPEINGS.— Arriving  at  Eed  Bluff,  225  miles 
north  of  San  Francisco,  I  proceeded  to  these  remarkable 
springs,  very  pleasantly  located  in  the  foothills  eight  miles 
distant,  at  an  elevation  of  450  feet  above  the  sea.  They 
were  first  discovered  by  Dr.  Veach  in  1854,  and  are  now 
owned  by  Mrs.  J.  C.  Bradley,  widow  of  the  well-known 
Major  Bradley,  of  the  Mexican  war,  a  California  pioneer  of 
'49,  who  settled  in  Tehama  County  in  1851. 

The  springs,  over  40  in  number,  cover  several  acres,  and 
embrace  a  great  variety  of  waters — white  sulphur,  iron  and 
magnesia  being  their  most  prominent  ingredients.  The 
principal  springs  are  No.  1,  bathing;  No.  2,  white  sulphur; 
No.  3,  black;  No.  4,  consumptive;  No.  5,  yellow;  and  have 
proved  very  efficient  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dyspepsia, 
neuralgia,  paralysis,  liver  and  kidney  complaints,  salt  rheum, 
tetter,  and  all  skin  diseases. 

There  are  good  hotel  accommodations  for  about  30 
guests,  and  the  extensive  grounds,  comprising  80  acres  of 
handsome  oak-wooded  rolling  foothills,  afford  excellent  and 
unlimited  room  for  campers. 

The  bathing  facilities  are  ample — nine  hot,  cold  and 
steam  baths  only  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel. 

A  carriage  conveys  guests  from  Red  Bluff  to  the  Springs, 
over  a  good  road  for  several  miles,  through  a  rich  farming 
settlement. 

A  ride  of  about  100  miles  nortliward  through  a  very  inter- 
esting country,  and  we  were  in  the  midst  of 

THE  GREAT  HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE  RESORTS 
OF  SHASTA  AND  SISKlYOU  COUNTIES. 

Here  are  numerous  soda  springs,  and  Mie  best  field  for 
deer  hunting  and  trout  fishing  in  the  State. 

HiBBs'  Soda  Spuings  (unimproved),  owned  by  J.  A. 
Hibbs,  are  on  the  stage  road,  02  miles  north  of  Redding. 

The  Loweu  Soda  Spiiinoh,  open  as  a  summer  roHort,  ;vre 
very  pleasantly  n^tuated  a  little  off  from  the  nain  loud, 
about  two  miles  above. 


r\i- 


,'.■■»■ 


SISSONS. 


213 


■vS, 


Next  I  reached 


THE  UPPER  SODA  SPEINGS,  69  miles  from  Red- 
ding, R.  W.  Mannon,  proprietor,  a  most  delightful  place, 
with  a  very  comfortable  hotel,  and  a  spring  of  cool,  spark- 
ling, delicious  soda  water,  bursting  forth  close  by,  finely 
improved. 

They  were  first  discovered  by  the  Oregon  Pioneers,  and 
taken  up  by  Ross  McLeod. 

The  property,  comprising  160  acres,  is  very  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  head-waters  of 
the  Sacramento  and  Trinity  Rivers,  at  an  elevation  of 
2250  feet  above  the  sea. 

Deer  and  mountain  goats  are  numerous,  and  the  trout 
fishing  excellent. 

The  farm  supplies  the  table  with  fresh  buttei",  eggs,  etc. 

Round  trip  fare,  from  San  Francisco,  $37.00. 

SISSONS.  — Sissons,  for  twenty-two  years  thfl  home  of 
J.  H.  Sisson,  is  a  very  comfortable  hotel,  accommodating 
fifty  persons,  delightfully  situated,  on  a  640-acre  homestead, 
twelve  and  one-fourth  miles  (air  line)  from  the  summit  of 
Mount  Shasta,  76  miles  from  Redding,  3441  feet  above 
the  sea. 

From  June  until  late  in  October,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
enjoyable  places  of  resort  on  the  coast. 

It  is  surrounded  by  the  grandest  scenery  of  this  region, 
in  the  midst  of  a  veritable  Paradise  for  the  sportsman. 

Besides  the  home  tract,  Mr.  Sisson  owns  200  acres  on 
the  banks  of  the  McCloud  River — so  famous  for  the  unsur- 
passed trout  fishing  it  affords. 

It  has  been  improved  with  cabins,  etc.,  for  camping  par- 
ties, for  the  exclusive  use  of  the  guests  at  Sisson's,  and  is 
without  doubt  the  best  private  trout  fishing  reserve  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  farm  supplies  the  table  with  an  abundance  of  fresh 
butter,  eggs,  milk,  chickens,  vegetables,  etc.,  and  a  large 
artificial  pond,  salmon  trout  and  carp  at  short  notice. 

In  addition  to  excellent  mountain  water,  there  is  an  ii-on 
spring  in  the  garden,  near  the  hotel. 


lii 


'H'l 


^i^mmmmi^mmm 


214 


CALIFORNIA. 


It  is  18  miles,  by  a  good  trail  from  Sisson's  to  the  sum- 
mit of  Mount  Shasta,  11,000  feet  above;  the  ascent  and  return 
requiring  two  days,  and  costing  about  $15.00 — everything 
furnished. 

I  soon  entered 


SHASTi  "ALLEY,  which  extends  northward  for  40 
miles,  with  ai  i  e  width  of  about  14  miles. 

Mount  Shast;  vers  among  the  clouds  on  the  east,  and 
the  Scotch  Valley  Kange  lies  on  the  west. 

Stock  raising  and  dairying  is  the  principal  pursuit  of  the 
people. 

Jacob  Deetz,  the  owner  of  a  fine  ranch  near  the  southern 
border,  remembered  but  six  winteis  in  twenty-three  years 
during  which  stock  suffered  from  cold,  and  two  summers 
when  the  feed  was  ''at  short  by  drouth. 

Passing  rapidly  through  Yreka,  and  over  the  moun- 
tains, I  descended  their  northern  slope  into  tlie  famous 
Rogue  River  Valley  of  Southern  Oregon. 


i 


it 


OREGON, 

The  most  northwesterly  State  in  the  Union,  extends  north 
and  south  about  300  miles,  and  350  miles  east  and  west,  and 
contains  an  area  of  95,274  square  miles,  or  over  60,000,000 
acres. 

Its  first  discovery  is  generally  attributed  to  Spanish  nav- 
igators in  the  sixteenth  century.  Capt.  Eobt.  Gray,  of  Bos- 
ton, sailed  up  the  Columbia  in  1792.  Upon  his  explorations, 
the  United  States  laid  claim  to  the  region  now  known  as 
Oregon  and  Washington,  which  was  formally  ceded  to  this 
country  by  Spain,  in  1819. 

Capt.  Nathaniel  Winship,  of  New  England,  made  the  first 
attempt  at  settlement  in  Oregon,  locating  at  Oak  Point,  on 
the  Columbia,  in  1810.  In  1811,  John  Jacob  Astor  estab- 
lished the  trading  post  of  Astoria,  near  the  mouth  of  Colum- 
bia River.  Its  first  occupation  for  agricultural  pm*poses 
began  in  1830,  but  owing  to  remoteness,  and  the  unsettled 
question  of  possession,  there  were  but  few  permanent  set- 
tlers down  to  1840.  From  this  date  population  began  to  flow 
in,  and  in  1849  a  Territorial  Government  was  organized,  with 
Gen.  Jo.  Lane  as  Governor.  By  the  census  of  1850,  Oregon 
and  Washington  contained  13,294  inhabitants.  That  year 
Congress  passed  the  Donation  Act,  granting  640  acres  to  any 
married  couple,  and  320  acres  to  each  single  man.  This  law 
so  much  encouraged  immigration,  that  Oregon  was  admitted 
as  a  State  in  1859,  with  a  population  of  52,465.  But  isola- 
tion, the  perils  of  travel  and  occupation,  and  remoteness 
of  markets  for  surplus  products,  have  retarded  her  rapid 
development  until  a  comparatively  recent  date.  Since  the 
establishment  of  safe  and  adequate  means  of  transportation, 
and  the  projection  and  rapid  construction  of  an  extensive 
system  of  railways  to  and  through  every  section,  immigra- 
tion is  pouring  in  rapidly  from  every  quarter.  The  census 
of  1880  shows  174,767  people,  or  two  to  the  square  mile. 


i 


m 


216 


I     i 


onmoN. 


PHYSICAL  FEATUMES. 


Oregon  is  traversed  from  north  to  south  by  three  great 
mountain  ranges,  causing  the  most  marked  difference  of 
topography,  climate,  soil  and  productions.  The  Coast 
Bange,  much  broken,  and  generally  densely  wooded  with 
fir,  cedar  and  pine,  extends  along  the  immediate  coast, 
ranging  in  altitude  from  three  to  five  thousand  feet. 

The  Cascade  Mountains  (a  continuation  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  chain)  traverse  the  State  nearly  parallel  to,  and  about 
100  miles  distant  from  the  Pacific.  They  reach  an  elevation  in 
Oregon  of  over  11,000  feet,  and  are  covered  with  thick  forests 
of  fir  and  spruce.  About  150  miles  east  of  the  Cascade 
Range,  commencing  near  the  44th  degree  of  latitude,  the 
Blue  Mountains  extend  in  a  northeasterly  direction.  Much 
of  their  surface  is  extremely  broken,  of  volcanic  formation, 
less  thickly  wooded  than  the  mountains  to  the  west,  the  roll- 
ing foothills  of  tlie  northwestern  slope  (especially  bordering 
the  Walla  Walla  Valley)  being  excellently  adapted  to  graz- 
ing, wheat  and  fi  uit  growing. 

RIVERS. 

The  Columbia  Biver,  the  largest  of  this  region — which, 
with  its  main  tributaries,  drains  an  area  of  more  than  275,000 
square  miles — rising  in  the  Bocky  Mountains,  forms  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  State  from  the  eastern  line  of 
Umatilla  County,  to  the  ocean  westward,  a  distance  of  nearly 
400  miles.  It  is  navigable — excluding  portages  at  the  Cas- 
cades, the  Dalles,  at  Priest's  and  Buckland's  Bapids,  and  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Methow — a  distance  of  about  700  miles. 

The  Columbia  receives  the  Willamette— its  chief  trib- 
utary, and  the  most  important  river"  in  Oregon — a  little  over 
100  miles  from  the  sea.  Bising  in  the  Cascade  Mountains, 
it  flows  north  through  the  central  portion  of  the  famous 
Willamette  Valley.  It  is  navigable  for  ocean  steamers  to 
Portland,  115  miles  from  the  ocean;  and  for  river  steamers 
during  high  water — by  means  of  locks  at  Oregon  City — to 
Eugene  City,  150  miles  from  its  mouth;  and  as  far  as  Salem, 
51  miles  above  Portland;  at  low  stages  of  water.  Clackamas, 
Tualatin,    Yamhill,    Sautiam,   Luckiamute,    Calapooia,    the 


PART  II. 


Oregon  Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts. 

PORTLAND  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


COLI'MBIA  RIVER  SCENERY. 


"vs 


f 


JIM 


J.  H.  BRENNER,  Proorietor. 


,..!-B"nt>.i«ir5,ij,, 


WB 


The  Leading  Hotel  of  Portland. 

Kodern  Zmproyements— The  TaUe  i>  the  Finest  in  the  Oit;. 
SwJCRB    Your     Rooms     BeF(»kk    ARRiviNti     by    Tblkurai'Hino    "The    Esmond." 


•tin 


'i  .■■■  1 


mmmmmmmmmmmmm 


$ 


PART  II. 


Oregon  Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts. 

PORTLAND  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Books  aod  Stationery. 


J.  K.  GILL  &  CO. 

Publishers. 


lUpi  of  OragoB  and  Waahlnffton.     Price,  76  o«Bt>  tMh. 


Kaw  York  Ofllce : 

82  0«Ur8t. 
CHAS.  HODOE, 


ESTABLISHED,  18S1. 


T.  A.  DAVIS, 


GEO.  W.  8NELL, 


San  FranciHco  Office : 
110  Front  St. 
F.  K.  ARNOLD. 


Hodge,  Davis  dt  Co. 


WHOLESALE    DRUGGISTS. 

Proprietors  of  Orep  EidQey  Tea,  tbe  Great  Core  for  KidDey  Diseases. 

tl  per  Bottle. 92  and  M  FBOWT  STSEET. 

INTERN ATION A L  HOTEL, 

Oor.  3d  Md  S  Sts.,  Three  Blooke  firom  B.B.  Depots  and  Steamer  Landings. 


THE  BEST  DOLLAR  A  DAY  HOUSE  IN  PORTLAND. 


Lewiston  &  Higgins,  Proprs. 


O 

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W 

t-H 

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mmmm 


PHYSICAL    FEATURES    OF  OREGON. 


217 


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iMiiry  iind  Long  Tom  rivers,  arc  its  principal  tributaries. 
On  the  banks  of  these  streams,  and  in  the  fertile  valleys  and 
foot-hills  watered  by  them,  the  present  population  and  most 
impritant  cities,  towns  and  industries  in  Oregon  are  located. 
The  Snake  River — the  next  largest  affluent  of  the  Columbia, 
rises  in  Shoshone  Lake,  Wyoming,  and  forms  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  State,  from  Riverside  to  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Grand  Ronde  River,  a  distance  of  about  150  miles.  It 
is  navigable  from  its  mouth  at  Ainsworth,  over  150  miles  to 
Lev.'iston,  Idaho.  The  Grand  Ronde,  Powder,  Burnt,  Mal- 
heur and  Owyhee  rivers  are  the  principal  streams  flowing 
into  it. 

The  principal  rivers  of  Oregon  flowing  into  the  Pa-^ific 
are  the  Rogue,  Coquille,  Umpqua,  Siuslaw,  Alsea,  Yaquinii, 
Siletz,  Nestncca,  Trask,  Wilson's  and  Nehalem. 

LAKES. 

Klamath,  Summer,  Albert,  Fish,  Silver,  Goose,  Warner, 
Harney,  Wapato,  Devil's,  Loon,  Diamond,  Cratci',  Ciesccnt 
and  Odell,  are  the  largest  lakes. 

BAYS   AND   HARBORS. 

Coos,  Yaquiua  and  Tillamook  Bays,  afibrd  safe  harbors, 
accessible  except  in  stormy,  weather,  for  vessels  drawing 
from  oiglit  to  twelve  feet  of  water,  and  are  becoming  of  co'  - 
siderable  commercial  importance.  Yaquina  Bay  is  the  ocean 
terminus  of  the  O.  P.  R.  R.,  and  now  a  port  of  entry. 

VALLEYS. 

Tlie  principal  valleys  of  Oregon  are  the  Willamette, 
Rogue,  Walla  Walla,  Powder,  Grande  Ronde,  Wallowa, 
John  Day,  Des  Chuttes  and  Klamath. 

GEOLOGICAL  FOnMATION. 

The  geological  formation  of  Oregon,  as  shown  by  the  de- 
posits, is  evidently  the  result  of  volcanic  upheavals  during 
the  Cretaceous  period.  The  surface  of  Eastern  Oregon  con- 
sists largely  of  immense  deposits  of  volcanic  matter.  West 
of  the  Cascade  Range  the  older  rocks  are  generally  buried 
under  the  deposit  of  the  Tertiary  and  Post-Tertiary  period. 
Salt-water  seas,  and  lakes  covered,  at  one  period,  the  plains 
and  valleys  of  the  Pacific  Slope. 


"     i- 


218 


OREOON. 


ROGUE  RIVER  VALLEY  is  a  magnificent  stretch  of 
country,  extending  not  along  the  river  of  that  name,  but 
Honthwiird  therefrom  for  more  over  30  miles,  with  a  most  ge- 
nial climate,  very  fertile,  and  growing  excellent  fruit,  in 
great  variety,  as  well  as  cereals  and  root  crops. 

Jacksonville,  Phoenix  and  Ashland  are  its  most  import- 
ant towns. 

Tliei'e  are  warm  sulphur  springs  near  the  latter  place. 

At  Smith's  Ranch  and  Store,  on  Wolf  Creek,  I  left  the 
stage,  and  took  a  foot  trail  over  a  steep  mountain  to  the 
.southern  terminus  of  the  Oregon  and  California  Railway. 

Proceeding  by  a  construction  train,  a  big  slide  was  en- 
countered, covering  the  track  near  Cow  Creek  Caiion. 

Thus  detained,  I  met  a  pioneer,  J.  B.  Nichols,  the 
owner  of  a  2000-acre  ranch  at  the  base  of  Table  Mountain, 
where  he  had  lived  thirty-one  years.  During  that  whole  period 
his  stock  had  never  suffered  from  drouth,  and  only  two  win- 
ters from  snow. 

Salmon  were  so  plentiful  in  the  streams  that  a  single 
railway  consti'uction  blast  killed  sixty  in  Cow  Creek  by 
concussion. 

About  30  miles  beyond  Roseberg  I  visited 


f'i 


THE  PAYTON  MINERAL  SPRINGS.  They  are  sit- 
uated immediately  on  the  line  of  the  Oregon  and  California 
Railway,  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Yoncolla,  two  miles  south 
of  Drain's  Station,  and  166  miles  from  Portland. 

They  are  surrounded  by  the  most  charming  landscapes, 
composed  of  gently  rolling  hills  and  handsome  dales,  finely 
wooded  with  fir,  cedar,  maple,  oak  and  other  indigenous 
trees,  through  which  course  numerous  clear  mountain 
streams, 

The  climate  is  a  delightful  mean  the  year  round — mild, 
yet  invigorating,  and  free  from  all  malaria. 

The  springs  burst  forth  fresh  and  sparkling  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  hotel,  and  have  been  very  highly  endorsed  by 
Prof.  Philip  Harvey,  of  Portland,  and  others  too  numerous 
to  montion,  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  dyspei>sia,  asthma, 
scrofula,  liver  complaints,  visceral  obstructions,  and  all 
blood  and  skin  diseases. 


MINERAL    SPRINGS. 


219 


The  specific  gravity  of  the  water  is  by  Bumes'  Hydrome- 
ter, 1.01,  yielding  435  grains  of  solid  matter  to  the  gallon, 
of  which  173  grains  are  chlorides  of  sodium,  145  grains 
chloride  of  magnesium  and  115  grains  chloride  of  calcium. 
They  also  contain  a  small  quantity  of  carbonate  of  lime  and 
iron,  and  considerable  free  carbonic  acid. 

The  grounds  embrace  a  splendid  320-acre  ti-act — adjoin- 
ing the  well  known  Jesse  Applegate  6000-ncre  estate — through 
which  flows  Elk  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Umpqua. 

It  is  finely  wooded,  watered  by  living  streams  and  springs, 
and  is  the  resort  of  deer,  fox,  partridge,  quail,  and  other 
game. 

The  improvements  comprise,  besides  a  good  hotel,  a  carp 
pond,  hennery  and  garden  supplying  the  table  with  the  luxu- 
ries of  fresh  fish,  butter,  eggs,  milk,  vegetables,  fnait,  and 
fowl. 

The  springs  arc  owned  by  Dr.  Payton  and  Mr.  Cart- 
wright,  wlio  together  with  Mrs.  Cartwright,  an  excellent 
housekeeper,  devote  their  entire  attention  to  providing  for 
the  health,  comfort  and  pleasure  of  their  guests. 

All  trains  stop,  when  requested,  directly  opposite  the 
hotel. 

Between  Payton's  and  Portland,  I  examined  the  Soda- 
ville,  Aurora,  and  Wilhoit  Mineral  Springs,  from  two  to 
twenty  miles  from  the  line  of  the  Oregon  and  California 
Railroad. 

SODAVILLE  SODA  SPRINGS  are  situated  about  7 « 
miles  southeast  of  Albany,  in  Lynn  County,  in  the  wer-irii 
foot-hills  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  four  miles  from  the  line 
of  the  railway  at  the  town  of  Lebanon. 

The  water  is  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and  well  recom- 
mended. 

The  situation  is  healthful  and  pleasant,  and  visitors  will 
find  comfortable  accommodations  at  Foot's  Hotel,  close  to 
the  springs. 

THE  AURORA  MINERAL  SPRINGS,  Dr.  Giesy, 
owner.  These  springs,  two  in  number,  are  situated  about 
one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Oregon  and  California  Rail- 
road, at  Aurora,  27  miles  south  of  Portland. 


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220  OUEiiON. 

They  are  a  powerful  saline,  and  highly  rHOomniondecl  for 
ilyHpupsia,  Bcrofula,  skin  and  kidney  diseaHes. 

ANALYHI8  MAIjT  DV  J.  H.  BKLIi,  M.  D. 

OnAINR. 

Chloride  of  Cnlcinm 474  1'2« 

Chliiriilf  of  Sodium Sr.fi  00 

Miij^iipmiiin 1!(.H7'2 

C'lirltoimto  of  Iron Traces, 

( !ai  txmatt*  of  Lime Trncps. 

Silifii :..    lO.dOH 

Ort^iviiic^  Mutter 1  .Olfi 

Total 801 .024 

THE  CELEBRATED  WILHOIT  MINERAL 
SPRINGS. —  The  Wilhoit  Mineral  SpringH  are  situated 
upon  Rock  Ci'eek,  in  Clackamas  County,  Oregon,  in  the 
western  foot-hills  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  at  an  elevation 
of  abon';  3000  feet  above  the  sea. 

Though  first  discovered  and  taken  up  by  John  Wilhoit, 
for  their  mineral  properties,  in  1808,  they  have  been  known 
to  the  pioneer  hunters  oi  this  region  as  the  great  deer-lick 
for  over  thirty  years. 

Hundreds  of  deer,  cougar  and  other  wild  animals  have 
boon  killed  at  these  springs. 

Horses  have  been  known  to  break  out  of  their  pastures, 
miles  away,  to  satisfy  their  thirst  for  these  waters. 

They  are,  without  doubt,  among  the  most  remarkable  in 
the  world  for  their  curative  qualities  and  agreeableuoss  as 
ii  beverage. 

With  little  or  no  effort  made  to  advertise  them,  they 
have  already  become  the  principal  health  resort  of  this 
whole  section,  and  their  waters  in  such  local  demand  that 
two  four-horse  teams  were  constantly  employed  during  last 
season,  at  an  expense  of  $2600,  to  supply  Portland  alone. 

They  are  immensely  popular  with  the  people  of  the 
Willamette  Valley,  who  would  probably  rebel  against  any 
attempt  to  exclude  them  from  their  customary  use. 

From  summer  until  autumn  they  flock  here  by  the  hun- 
dreds, camping  in  the  pleasant  fir  groves  bordering,  and 
when  the  season  is  over  drawing  the  wrter  to  their  homes 
by  the  barrel. 


WILIIOIT  MINERAL  Sl'HlNGS. 


221 


There  is  probably  not  u  settler  for  twenty  milos  arciuud 
but  will  toll  you  of  thair  remarkable  cures. 

They  ure  especially  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  dyspepsia, 
kiilnuy  complaints,  skin  and  nervous  diseases,  and  are  a  sure 
antidote  for  sea  sickness. 

The  springs  are  seven  in  number,  yielding  an  in- 
exhaustible supply  of  one  of  the  most  delicious,  sparkling, 
appetizing  and  refreshing  natural  beverages  'iver  dis- 
covered. 

The  time  will  come  when  the  Wilhoit  Mineral  Springs 
will  take  a  front  rank  among  the  most  famous  natural  sani- 
tariums of  the  world— become  the  Saratot-^a  of  the  Pacitiu 
Coast — and  wlien  their  waters  will  be  as  widely  known  and 
drank  as  those  of  the  most  celebrated. 

Nature  has  provided  here  everything  necessary  for  a  great 
popular  watering-place,  a  very  pleasant  and  healthy  situation, 
sheltered  by  handsome  groves  of  fir,  with  numerous  crystal 
springs  bursting  from  the  hill-sides  close  at  hand,  admirable 
camping-grounds,  an  abundance  of  trout  in  the  brooks,  and 
game — deer,  grouse,  pheasant,  etc.,  in  the  foot-hills. 

Tliis  valuable  property  is  now  owned  by  the  Wilhoit 
Springs  Mineral  Water  Company,  incorporated  April  30th, 
1881,  Messrs.  A.  Labbe,  President,  R.  S.  McLeran,  Secre- 
tary, stock  owned  by  Labbe  Bros,  and  McLeran  Bros.,  with 
their  principal  office  and  agency  at  LabbeBros.,  8.E.  corner 
Second  and  Washington  Streets,  Portland,  Oregon. 

There  are  at  present  good  accommodations  at  the  springs 
hotel  for  all  who  may  come,  excellent  fare,  home  comforts, 
hot  and  cold  mineral  baths,  etc.,  under  the  efficient  manage- 
ment of  Mr.  McLeran  and  wife,  who  spare  no  pains  to  pro- 
vide everything  jjossible  for  their  health  ^nd  comfort. 

The  company,  who  own  a  fine  tract  of  200  acres  sur- 
rounding the  springs,  embracing  a  promising  vein  of  coal 
about  to  be  developed,  contemplate  the  building,  at  an  early 
day,  of  a  railroad  from  Portland,  -tnd  the  expenditure  of 
large  sums  in  improving  and  beautifying  the  grounds. 

Analysis  of  Wilhoit  Mineral  Spring  Water,  made  by 
Prof,  John  A.  Veatch,  M.  D.,  April  8th,  1869. 


■i    ■    'i 


^ 


222 


OREGON, 


CONTENTS  OP  ONE  WINK  OALLON. 

(Jubio  tnohes. 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas ... .  .338,44 

Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 2i)i.(Jl) 

Carbomite  of  Soda 87.57 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 85 .  32 

Carbonate  of  Lime .   32 .  23 

Carbonate  of  Protoxide  of  Iron G .  00 

Sulphate  of  Soda 3.40 

Sulphate  c*  Magnesia G .  45 

Total  solid  contents  '22.00 

PORTLAND,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  Pa- 
cific northwest,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  ocean  steamsliip 
aavigatioD,  on  the  banks  of  the  Willamette  River,  12  miles 
frcm  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia,  and  115  miles  from 
the  Pacific.  It  lies  mainly  along  its  left  bank,  the  suburbs 
extending  to  the  base  of  ihe  fir-clad  foothills  of  the  Coast 
Range,  which,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  several  hundred 
feet,  encircle  it  on  the  west  and  south.  It  is  regularly  laid 
out,  with  broad  streets,  lighted  with  gas,  and  traversed  by 
street  cars  on  its  principal  thoroughfares.  An  abundant 
supply  of  excelleni  water  is  distributed  by  iron  pipes 
throughout  the  city. 

Front  street  is  chiefly  occupied  by  ware  and  wholesale 
houses,  and  the  steamship  and  I'ailroad  companies,  control- 
ling the  ocean,  river  and  rail  transportation  of  this  entii-e 
region.  Its  principal  trade  centers  between  Front  and 
Fourth  streets,  and  is  represented  in  its  various  departments 
by  large,  substantial,  handsome  blocks  of  iron,  brick  and 
stone.  The  resident  portion  is  well  built,  and  ornamented 
by  many  spacious,  elog«.nt  mansions,  the  homes  ^f  its  most 
opulent  citizens.  Educational  and  religious  instlaitious  are 
well  sustained,  its  public  schools  and  churches  costing  over 
1300,000. 

Nev/-Market  Theater,  the  Masonic,  Odd  Fellows',  Turn 
Vereiu  and  Ather  Halls,  afford  commodious  and  convenient 
facilities  for  the  frequent  plays,  lectures,  readings,  etc., 
provided  for  the  entortaiiuneut  and  instruction  of  the  peo[)le. 
A  Library  Association  of  over  300  members  and  11,000  vol- 


PORTLAND. 


223 


ship 


umes,  is  in  a  flourishing  condition;  a  free  reading-room  and 
library  is  also  provided  bj'  the  Young  Mens  Christifui  Asso- 
ciation. The  Press  is  ably  represented  by  the  Daily  and 
Weekly  Oregonian,  and  numerous  other  papers  and  period- 
icals. Over  30  hotels  and  boarding-houses  furnish  ampJe 
and  excellent  accommodations  suited  to  all  classes  of  the 
traveling  public.  Her  population,  now  nun.l-ering  about 
25,000,  and  rapidly  increasing,  is  derived  from  the  best  ele- 
ments of  our  home  and  foreign  immigration,  intelligent, 
energetic  and  progressive.  Life  on  the  streets  presents  that 
wide-awake  aspect  chaiacteristic  of  the  great  business  cen- 
ters of  our  stimnlutiug  northern  (.'liiaates.  The  fresh  air, 
clear  complexions,  iutelii^^ent  faces,  vigorous  and  well  devel- 
oped physique  of  the  people,  indicate  that  the  finest  types  of 
manhood  and  womanhood  are  here  finding  homes  and  pros- 
perous occupations. 

Established  industries  are  pushed  with  great  vigor,  and 
every  opportunity  seized  npon  for  utilizing  the  abounding 
resources  awaiting  development  on  every  hand.  Millions  of 
acres  producing  the  choicest  cereals;  the  greatest  timber  re- 
serve of  the  continent,  which  generations  will  not  exhaust; 
deposits  of  coal  and  iron  sufficient  for  all  the  demands  of  trans- 
portation and  manufacturing;  the  most  extensive  and  valua- 
ble salmon  fisheries  in  the  world,  lie  at  her  doors,  and  pay 
generous  tribute  to  her  commerce. 

Whatever  importance  other  places  may  assume  in  the 
progress  of  the  development  of  the  immense  resources  of 
this  great  region,  Portland,  by  reason  o'  her  uuriviilled  nat- 
ural advantages,  commanding  throu  -i  the  enterinise  and 
concentration  of  the  capital  and  int(  t<  its  of  the  great  com- 
panies already  operating  over  4000  miles  of  railroad,  ocean 
and  river  transportation,  with  important  extensions  in  course 
of  construction,  the  internal  commerce  of  over  250,000  stpiaro 
miles  of  one  of  the  richest  })ortions  of  the  Uuion,  will  not 
only  maintain  her  present  commercial  supremacy,  but  rap- 
idly rise  in  population,  business  and  wealth,  i:nd  hold  her 
position  as  one  of  the  three  great  cities  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 


m 


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224 


OREGON. 


I 


i  I 


EXOUUSIONB  FROM   POKTLAND.  —  TrIP    No.    I  ~  Up  the    WiUa- 

rnettc  Valley  to  Rmehurg,  at  the  Head  of  the  Umpqua 
Valleij,  and  then  to  Coi'vallis,  in  the  Month  of  March. 
Round  trip,   700  miles. 

Tlie  Willamette  Valley  (proper)  extends  from  the  Co- 
lumbiii  River  on  the  north,  125  miles  southward,  to  the  biise 
of  the  Calupooia  Mountains,  and  from  east  to  west  from  the 
Cascade  to  the  Coast  Range  of  Mountains,  comprising,  in- 
cluding the  foot-hills,  more  than  4,000,000  acres  of  the 
richest  agricultura  ,  pastoral  and  fruit  lauds. 

It  is  traversed,  lengthwise,  by  the  Oregon  and  Califor- 
nia Railway,  now  operated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Willa- 
mette its  entire  length,  and  as  far  south  as  Gleiidale,  202 
miles,  aud  west  of  the  river  96  miles  to  Corvallis. 

Along   these   lines  of   road  there   are   more  than'  forty 
thriving  villages,  towns  and  cities.     Of  these  Oregon  City 
Salem,  Albany,  Harrisburg,  Eugene  City  and  Roseburg  are 
the  most  important. 

They  run  through  the  heart  of  the  valley,  antl  fairly  ex- 
hibit its  beauty  and  fertility. 

Its  special  features  are  a  level  surface,  forests  of  ever- 
green, tir  and  spruce  bordering  or  surrounding  gre(!ii  prairie 
openings  and  meadow  lands. 

The  present  is  one  of  the  most  backward  seasons  ever 
known,  but  the  grain  is  about  six  inces  high,  the  pasturage 
good,  the  stock  looking  well,  and  the  numerous  orchards  are 
beginning  to  bloom. 

It  is  impossible  to  have  every  good  thing  at  any  one 
place  and  time;  and  while  the  people  of  Western  Oregon 
are  blessed  with  such  abundant  rains  that  crop  failiiies  are 
almost  unknown,  they  suffer  from  extremely  bad  roatls  dur- 
ing the  winter  season. 

The  low  lands  are  very  wet,  and  spring  i)lowing  just 
commenced,  nearly  a  month  later  than  usual. 

There  is  considerable  ditching,  but  not  half  enough. 
The  country  im|)reH.seH  mo  much  more  favorably  than  the 
thrift  and  enterprise  of  the  settlers  occu(>ying  it. 

The  average  condition  of   the    farms,   buildings,  fences 


EXCUEf-'lONH   FROM  PORTLAND. 


225 


and  other  improvements  is  much  inferior  to  those  of  our 
more  prosperous  agricultural  communities  of  the  same  age 
in  the  West. 

I  am  satisfied  that  the  products  of  the  Willamette  Valley 
would  be  increased  two-fold  by  an  intelligent,  thorough  sys- 
tem of  tillage  of  the  area  now  farmed.  The  old  settlers 
themselves  admit  this;  they  have  little  ambition  as  agricul- 
turists beyond  getting  a  comfortable  living  in  the  easiest 
manner. 

Hitherto,  until  quite  recently,  there  has  been  no  encour- 
agement for  production  in  excess  of  home  demands.  The 
costs  of  transportation  have  been  so  great  that  the  producer 
has  often  received  little  or  no  profit  for  his  labor.  But  a 
new  era  is  now  dawning,  not  only  for  the  farmer,  but  for  all 
classes  in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  Competing  lines  by  rail 
and  ocean  will  soon  bid  for  the  carrying  traffic  of  Oregon. 

The  tourist  who  admires  scenic  beauty  will  be  charmed 
with  the  landscape,  especially  surrounding  Harrisburg, 
Eugene  City,  Cottage  Grove,  and  t)  o  villages  of  Drain's, 
Rice  Hill  and  Oakland,  beyond  the  divide  in  the  foot-hills 
of  the  Calapooia  Mountains. 

At  Oakland  the  train  was  boarded  by  the  fiushest,  mer- 
riest and  most  intelligent  company  of  young  men  and  women 
I  have  seen  for  many  a  day.  They  were  native-born,  and 
students  at  a  seminary  located  here. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  river  the  general  elevation  is  a 
little  higher  than  on  the  east. 

The  soil  is  a  dark  sandy  or  alluvial  loam,  the  foot-hills 
equally  as  rich  as  th^j  bottom  lands. 

A  settler  by  the  name  of  Clancy,  living  on  Gale  Creek, 
in  Washington  County,  says  his  neighbor  Hchultz  raised  last 
year  45  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre  upon  the  burnt  lauds, 
without  ])lowiiig  or  harrowing,  simply  brushing  the  seed  in 
with  a  tree-top. 

There  are  tens  of  thousands  of  acres  in  the  Burnt  Dis- 
trict of  the  Coast  liauge  susceptible  of  profitable  cultiva- 
tion. It  grows  the  choicest  fruits  and  berries.  Game  and 
fish  abound,  the  water  is  excellent,  and  the  climate 
healthy. 


til 

If 


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Il' 


226 


OREGON. 


Trip  No.  2.  —  Ft'om  Portland  to  Astoria,  Tillamook  and 
Yaquina  Bays,  Oregon,  on  Steamer  Yaquina.  Bound 
trip,  430  miles. 

The  new,  staunch  little  steamer  Yaquina,  loaded  with 
raliroad  building  material  for  the  Oregon  Pacific  Railroad, 
a  full,  list  of  passeugei'8— including  master  mechanic,  en- 
gineers, surveyors,  traders,  prospectors  and  others — sailed 
from  Portland,  at  five  in  the  morning,  bound  for  8an 
Juan  Island,  Paget  Sound,  via  Tillamook  and  Yaquina 
Bays,  Oregon,  and  Gray's  Harbor,  Washington  Terri- 
tory. Ned  Moody,  an  experienced  master  and  pilot,  stood 
by  the  wheel,  and  gave  tlie  writer  the  benefit  of  his  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  great  water-ways  of  this  region. 

The  Willamette  is  here  a  considerable  stream,  broad  and 
deep  enough  for  large  ships,  its  bottom  covered  with  cotton- 
wood,  fir  and  spruce  prevailing  upon  the  uplands .  The  few 
settlers  are  engaged  chiefly  in  dairying  and  logging.  Swan, 
Sauvie's,  Nigger  Tom's  and  Coon  Islands  are  soon  passed. 
Twelve  miles  from  Portland  we  sight  the  old  settlement  of 
Vancouver  and  take  leave  of  the  Willamette. 

The  Columbia  is  one  of  the  mighty  rivers  of  the  world, 
broad,  deep  and  rapid.  Its  descent  afl'ords  a  succession  of 
most  glorious  views,  and  subjects  of  great  interest.  Dense 
forests  of  stately  fir  and  spruce,  unbroken  excepting  a  little 
here  and  there  by  fires  and  the  woodman's  ax,  extend  along 
both  banks  from  the  ocean  almost  to  The  Dalles,  and  as  far 
into  the  interior  as  the  eye  can  reach.  13old  rocky  head- 
huuls,  and  frowning  snow-capped  cliff's  and  peaks,  alternate 
with  smooth  rolling  hills  and  green  meadows  along  this 
grand  review. 

Mounts  Hood,  St.  Helen's,  Ilanier,  Jefferson  and  Adams, 
raise  their  white,  majestic  heads  among  the  clouds,  thousands 
of  feet  above  the  timber  line.  Salmon  fisluries,  sawmills, 
villages,  islands,  rivers,  ci'eeks,  steamers,  vessels  and  fish- 
ing-])oatK,  are  ])assed  in  rapid  succession.  We  met  the  Bo- 
nita,  C'latsop  Chief,  Toledo,  Jos.  Kellog)^,  Manzanillo,  Hay- 
ward  and  Fleetwood — small,  swift,  stern-wheelers  plying 
between  Ptntland  and  Astoria,  and  these  places  and  Kalama 


EXGUBSI0N8    FROM   PORTLAND. 


227 


4  and  points  on  the  Cowlitz,  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Co- 

lumbia. Warriors'  Eock,  Martin's  Bluff,  CoflBn  Rock,  Car- 
roll's Point,  Green's  Point,  Bunker  Hill,  Oak  Point,  Cape 
Horn,  Cooper  s  Point,  Pillar  Rock,  Jim  Crow  Mountain, 
Tongue  Point  and  Saddle-Back  Mountt^iu,  are  the  most 
prominent  and  interesting  landmarks;  St.  Helen's,  Columbia 
City,  Ranier,  Kalama,  Cathlamet  and  Westport,  are  the 
principal  villages;  Batchelors,  Deer,  Sand,  Martin's,  Car- 
roll's, Walker's,  Fisher's,  Crim's,  Puget  and  Woody,  the 
larger  islands;  St.  Helen's,  Martin's,  Walker's,  and  Hog's 
Back,  the  bar  obstructions. 

Six  miles  below  Vancouver  we  reach  the  first  of  the  thir- 
ty-six salmon  canneries  lining  the  banks  of  the  lower  Colum- 
bia. In  the  brief  period  of  twelve  years,  this  industry  has 
grown  to  such  proportions  that  a  single  firm,  Kinnej'^'s,  pack- 
ed 32,000  cases  during  the  season.  It  is  estimated  that  the 
annual  salmon  product  of  the  Columbia,  Frazer,  Rogue  and 
Umpqua  rivers,  exceeds  1,000,000  cases,  containing  forty- 
eight  1-lb  cans  each;  tiie  yield  of  the  Columbia  river  alone 
amounting  to  550,000  cases,  valued  at  upwards  of  $3,000,000. 
The  fishing  season  commences  on  the  first  of  April,  and  con- 
tinues till  the  first  of  August.  The  canneries  furnish  boats 
and  nets,  and  pay  the  fishermen  two-thirds  the  value  of  all 
the  fish  caught,  ranging  from  50  to  60  cents  each.  The  fish- 
ing boats  are  from  22  to  24  feet  in  length,  and  from  6J  to  1\ 
feet  wide,  each  carrying  two  men,  and  a  gill-net  from  250  to 
350  fathoms  long,  and  about  40  g4-inch  meshes  deep.  The 
average  salmon  weighs  about  24  lbs.,  three  and  a  half  usually 
filling  a  case.  They  are  occasionally  caught  weighing  over 
80  lbs.,  but  the  medium  sized  are  preferred.  When  a  few 
miles  from  Astoria,  the  Columbia  rapidly  widens,  being 
seven  miles  acaoss  from  Gray's  Bay,  Washington  Territory, 
to  John  Day's,  in  Oregon.  A  strong  ocean  breeze  whitens 
this  broad  expanse  with  foaming  sea-caps;  a  fleet  of  brave 
fishornien  under  full  sail  are  darting  in  every  direction,  many 
of  the  boats  showing  half  their  keel's  length.  It  is  ])erilous 
business  in  stormy  weather — more  than  seventy  daring  fel- 
lows having  been  drowned  last  year,  by  ventui'ing  too  far 
among  the  angry  breakers  at  the  bar. 


\y 


I 


228 


OREGON. 


Roundiug  Tongue  Point,  and  touching  ii  fow  moments  at 
a  salmon  cannery,  at  5:50  P.  M.  we  are  alongside  the  wharf 
at 

ASTORIA,  the  largest  city  on  the  Columbia  Kiver,  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank,  about  12  miles  from  its  mouth. 
It  was  founded  by  John  Jacob  Astor  in  1811,  and  contains  a 
resident  ]iopulation  of  3981  inhabitants.  Its  most  impor- 
tant industries  are  salmon  ciinuiug,  lumber  manufacturing 
and  commercial  trade;  the  aggregate  value  of  its  export 
shipments  during  1881,  amounting  to  upwards  of  13,000,000, 
The  surrounding  country  is  mostly  covered  with  foi-ests  of 
cedar,  spruce,  hemlock,  white  and  yellow  fir,  the  area 
adapted  to  agriculture  being  quite  limited.  The  rainfall  is 
somewhat  excessive,  but  the  climate  equable  and  healthful. 
The  great  advantages  of  Astoria  as  a  shipping  point,  will, 
in  conjunction  with  her  other  resources,  ultimately  build  up 
a  large  city  here.  Public  and  private  schools  and  churches 
are  well  sustained.  The  various  branches  of  business  rep- 
resented a])pear  to  be  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Her  saw- 
mills cut  upwards  of  6,000,000  feet  of  lumber  annually.  A 
tannery  is  in  successful  operation.  It  presents  excellent 
advantages  for  ship-building.  Avhich  will  doubtless  soon  bo 
improved. 

Veins  of  coal  have  been  discovered  at  the  base  of  Saddle 
Mountain,  about  ten  miles  distant,  but  not  sufficiently  de- 
veloped to  determine  their  probal)lo  extent.  The  business 
portion  of  the  city  is  mainly  built  upon  ],)iles,  and  is  oiu*  of 
the  eleaiKist  and  most  wholesome  in  the  Union.  The  sewei- 
abomination,  whi(;h  poisons  the  atmosphere  of  so  many  of 
our  towns  and  cities,  does  not  exist.  The  daily  ebb  and  flow 
of  the  tide  removes  all  tilth  more  thoroughly  than  can  any 
human  agency. 

Astoria  is  the  headquarters  of  the  most  extensive  salmon 
fisheries  and  canneries  in  the  world.  It  is  now  the  height 
of  the  fishing  season.  Tlu  Cor.indria  river,  for  twenty  miles 
from  its  mouth,  is  literally  alive  with  fishermen;  their  nets 
would  stretch  from  shore  to  shore  every  few  rods  of  the 
whole  distance.      The  citv  front  for  several  miles  is  a  vast 


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230 


OBEOON. 


W: 


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collection  uf  fishing  outfits-^ boats,  nets,  reels,  drying-racks, 
canneries,  etc. 

Desiring  to  examine  this  groat  industry  thoroughly,  I  de- 
termined first  to  see  how  the  salmon  were  caught.  For  this 
purpose  1  proceeded  to  one  of  the  largest  canneries  and 
made  known  my  wishes.  They  smiled  all  around,  looked  at 
me,  as  if  to  see  whether  I  meant  it — and  said  I  would  proba- 
bly find  some  one  to  take  me  out,  though  there  wasn't  any 
fun  in  it! — that  men  were  drowned  almost  every  day — two 
yesterday,  two  the  previous  day,  etc.  I  then  went  out  among 
.,he  fishermen,  some  of  whom  were  going  and  coming  with 
their  boats  all  the  time.  They  were  of  many  nationalities, 
Italians  and  Scandinavians  predominating,  a  strong,  hardy, 
dare-devil  set! 

When  I  told  them  what  I  wanted,  they  invariably  looked 
upon  me  with  a  broad  smile,  and  expressions  of  mingled  doubt 
and  curiosit}',  but  upon  boing  assured  that  I  was  in  earnest, 
readily  agreed  to  let  me  go  with  them.  Now  came  the  dif- 
ficulty of  finding  a  party  starting  and  returning  at  times  to 
suit  other  engagements. 

The  best  of  the  fishing  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  hundreds  of  the  fishermen  rendezvous  at  Sand  Island, 
improving  the  best  stages  of  the  tide  day  and  night;  fre- 
quently, if  the  catch  is  good,  remaining  out  from  20  to  60 
hours,  sending  up  the  salmon  by  steam  tenders,  which  ply 
between  them  and  the  canneries. 

Finally  I  found,  as  I  supposed,  my  man!  He  was  to 
start  early  in  the  evening  and  return  at  daybreak,  and  wanted 
to  hire  a  good  oarsman  for  the  night.  I  told  him  that  I  was 
the  son  of  a  fisherman,  and  had  rowed  everything,  from  an 
Indian  canoe  to  a  schooner,  and  was  a  man  of  muscle  and 
endurance!  He  seemed  to  be  favorably  impressed,  and  at 
once  engage,  I  my  services,  agreeing  to  pay  therefor  the  usual 
price.  But  he  failed  to  meet  me  at  the  appointed  place  of 
starting.  The  next  fisherman  I  consulted  on  the  subject, 
said  a  steamboat  had  just  cut  his  net  "all  to  li-ll,"  and  he 
couldn't  go  out  again  that  night.  There  still  remained  one 
chance  to  get  down  among  the  fishermen,  and  back  again  to 
Portland  in  time  to  start  on  Monday,  witii  Captains  Kellogg 


ASTORIA    SALMON  INDUSTRY. 


231 


and  Smith,  on  their  first  attempt  to  navigate  hy  steamer  the 
upper  Cowlitz  river. 

The  Ilwaco  Steam  Navigation  Co.,  (Captain  Gray,  agent) 
ran  a  daily  line  of  boats  from  Astoria  to  Ilwaco,  where  thoy 
make  connection  with  the  Shoalwater  Bay  Transportation 
Co.' 8  steamers  and  Loomis'  stage  line  through  to  Olympia. 
Touching  at  Ports  Stevens  and  Canby,  and  passing  through 
the  thickest  of  the  fishing  fleet,  calling  at  several  of  their 
stations  for  salmon — it  affords  not  only  a  excelleat  opportu- 
nity to  witness  all  the  details  of  salmon  catching,  but  a 
splendid  pleasure  excursian. 

The  Saturday  boat  leaves  Astoria  at  8  a.m.  Our  first  land- 
ing was  at  Fort  Stevens,  situated  on  a  low  sand  beach,  seven 
miles  down  on  the  left.  Sam.  Adair  has  a  fishing  station 
here. 

From  thence  eight  miles  to  Fort  Canby,  our  course  lay 
directly  through  the  thickest  of  the  fishing  fleet;  the  river 
here,  six  miles  in  width,  was  literally  a  network  of  seines, 
from  the  meshes  of  which  it  would  seem  uo  salmon  could 
escape.  It  was  impossible  to  keep  the  steamer  clear  of  them 
without  making  unreasonable  detours,  and  we  run  through 
and  over  more  than  thirty  nets,  cutting  several  ir.  two,  and 
dragging  in  our  return  a  dozen  fathoms  of  one  tliat  caught 
in  the  screw  of  a  disabled  steam  launch  which  we  stopped  to 
take  in  tow. 

At  Sand  Island  we  found  a  numerous  fleet  of  fishing  boats. 
The  island  belongs  to  the  Government,  l>at  is  leased  to  a 
salmon  cannery,  for  a  teim  of  years,  at  $500  a  year. 

About  three  miles  beyond,  on  the  Wasliington  shore,  lies 
Fort  Canby,  occupying  a  delightful  situation  in  a  sheltered 
cove  a  short  distance  from  Cape  Disappointment  'ight- 
house. 

While  discharging  freight  at  the  Government  wharf,  a 
fishing  boat  came  alongside  and  threw  on  board  181  splen- 
did salmon,  the  catch  of  four  boats  during  the  night. 

Two  miles  further  brings  us  to  Ilwaco,  very  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  beach,  under  the  fir-covered  foot  hills  of  the 
Coast  Range.  Loomis  &  Co.  own  a  good  wharf  here,  1260 
feet  in  length,  with  a  frontage  100  by  60  feet. 


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382 


OREGON. 


Returning,  we  called  at  several  lisliiug  stations  for  sal- 
mon, receiving  altogether  quite  a  deck  loud.  ()n«  boat  brought 
us  91,  taken  since  nine  o'clock  the  previous  evening,  but  this 
is  twice  the  usual  catch  for  this  season.  The  best  fishing  is 
in  tlie  south  channel,  and  sometimes  outside  of  the  bar,  but 
it  is  attended  with  great  danger.  They  go  out  with  the  ebb 
tide  and  fish  in  with  the  flood.  If  the  salmon  are  plentiful, 
they  are  tempted  to  keep  their  nets  in  as  long  as  possible, 
and  are  frequently  overtaken  and  swamped  and  drowned  in 
the  breakers,  which  rise  very  suddenly  upon  the  turning  of 
the  tide.  Hundreds  have  lost  their  lives  in  this  manner, 
and  by  storms— scarcely  a  day  passing  during  the  fishing 
seapon  which  does  not  add  to  the  list. 

Having  seen  how  and  where  the  salmon  were  caught,  I 
next  visited 

M.  J.  Kinney's  Canning  Establishment,  not  only  the 
largest  on  this  coast,  but  in  the  world!  Over  400  hands  are 
employed  in  catching  and  preparing  the  salmon  for  market. 
Their  outfit  consists  in  part  of  95  fishing  boats,  from  2I5J  to 
251  feet  long  and  7  feet  wide,  built  in  the  strongest  manner, 
from  the  best  models,  costing  $200  each.  The  same  number 
of  nets,  from  250  to  300  fathoms  in  length  and  four  fathoms 
deep,  made  from  the  strongest  linen  thread,  worth  a  dollar  a 
pound,  each  net  costing  $450,  and  lasting  only  one  year. 

Besides  the  extensive  wharf  and  buildings  used  "in  the 
canning  operation,  there  are  seven  great  piers,  275x()0  feel, 
fitted  up  with  racks  for  drying  the  nets.  Last  year  they  put 
up  50,000  cases,  and  expect  to  can  35,030  cases  this  season 
About  half  of  their  entire  product  was  shipped  to  the  east- 
ern cities  of  the  Union,  but  their  largest  orders  now  come 
from  Europe.  They  are  now  loading  10,000  cases  iijion  a 
gi-eat  iron  ship  for  Liverpool,  which  will  carry  away  on  her 
return  over  a  quarter  million  dollars  worth  of  canned  salmon 
from  Astoria  alone. 

Mr.  Kinney  has  built  up  his  immense  business  in  the 
brief  per;  »d  of  six  years,  and  such  is  the  demand  for  his 
brand  of  these  goods,  that  its  expansion  seems  to  be  only 
limited  by  the  salmon  catch;  which,  while  increasing  in  the 


KINNEY'S  GREAT  SALMON  CANNERY. 


233 


aggregate,  is  likely  to  diminish  so  far  as  individual  firms  are 
concerned. 

Beginning  at  the  wharf,  where  these  splenilid  fish  are  re- 
ceived, I  followed  them  through  all  the  various  operations  of 
cleaning,  packing,  curing,  testing,  labeling,  etc.,  to  wliich 
they  are  subjected  before  ready  for  the  market. 


First. — A  dozen  or  fifteen  salmon  at  a  time  are  arranged 
side  by  side  upon  a  long  table,  when  two  Chinamen,  with 
great  knives,  cut  off  their  heads,  tails  and  fins,  and  remove 
their  entrails,  at  the  rate  of  1500  a  day.  The  rejected 
parts  are  thrown  down  a  chute,  and  taken  away  to  the  oil- 
works. 


"i< 


284 


OREGON. 


\ 


\'\ 


Becond. — The  fish  are  carefully  cleaned,  scraped  and 
Hcaled  by  two  Chinamen,  and  passed  on  to  No.  5,  who,  with  a 
single  stroke  of  a  machine,  cuts  each  into  five  pieces,  four 
and  a  half  inches  long,  the  exact  length  of  the  can  which  is 
to  receive  them. 

Sixth.  —Two  Chinamen,  aimed  with  groat  knives,  cut 
those  pieces  in  two,  lengthwise,  when  they  are  cari-ied  in 
trays  to  the  packing-tables.  Here  they  are  put  into  cans, 
one  pound — over-weight — in  each,  and  passed  to  Chinese 
boys,  Avho  carefully  wipe  the  inside  of  the  top  edge  with 
clean  cotton  cloths. 

Ninth.  —The  cans  now  receive  their  covers,  which  are 
rapped  down  and  secured  by  means  of  a  small  wooden  mid- 
let,  and  are  taken  to  the  solderi^'s.  When  perfectly  sealed, 
they  are  place  I  in  the  bath-rooms  or  tanks  of  boiling  hot 
water,  nine  in  number,  each  three  and  a  hclf  feet  square, 
holding  720  cans.  Here  they  remain  for  oue  hour  and  ten 
minutes,  when  they  are  removed  to  the  stopping-bench, 
each  can  tested  by  tapping  with  a  small  wooden  mallet,  a 
hole  punched  in  the  top  to  allow  the  gases  to  escape,  and 
then  re-sealed.  They  are  next  run  on  a  tramway-car  into 
three  retorts,  each  containing  2160  cans,  where  for  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  they  are  subjected  to  a  steam  heat  of  240 '. 
From  the  retorts  they  go  into  the  washing-tanks,  and  from 
thenoe  to  the  lat-quer-baths.  These  consist  of  ten  large 
tanks  filled  with  a  solution  of  turpentine  and  copal  varnish, 
into  c;ioh  of  which  a  hundred  cans  at  once  are  quickly 
immersed. 

The  nineteenth  operation  f^onsists  in  removing  with  one 
stroke  of  a  brush  the  excess  of  the  solution  from  the  top  of 
the  cans.  Now  they  are  taken  to  the  first  tester,  who  by 
tapping  the  top  of  each  can,  with  a  steel  nail,  at  once 
detects  any  defect  in  the  sealing  of  the  cans.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  important  parts  of  the  whole  process  of  canning. 
Upon  its  thoroughness  the  reputation  of  the  goods  for  gen- 
eral excellence  depends.  There  are  three  separate  tests 
made  of  each  can  after  leaving  the  stopping-bench,  and  it  is 
rare  lo  fi;)il  a  spoiled  one  of  the  Kinnoy  bnmil.  The  si:;Tond 
and  third  testers  are  white  men,  trained  by  years  of  jxperi- 


KINNEY'S  (IllEAT  SALMON  ('ANNEliY. 


euoe  to  discover  instantly  by  sound  :he  slightest  defect,  its 
character  and  location. 

The  cans  are  next  labeled  by  yonng  girls,  with  astonish- 
ing rapidity,  each  putting  on  about  4000  daily,  when  they 
are  ready  for  the  twenty-fourth  and  final  operation — that  of 
packing. 


W 

u 

n 

O 
SB 

■-; 

» 
I 
cS 

S 

CO 
» 


From  forty -five  to  fifty  Chinamen  are  employed  in  mann- 
facturing  the  tin  cans  used  by  this  firm,  about  25,000  dailj'. 
They  are  very  expert,  rapid  and  accurate  workmen.  Squar- 
ing machines  cut  the  tin  into  strips  of  the  exact  size  re- 
quired; one  clips  the  corners;  a  former,  with  one  revohition, 
rounds  i«  into  shape;  the  bottoms  are  soldered,  then  floated, 


!.: 


IMli 


It 


■;:i 


i  I 


mi 


236 


OREGON. 


ii 


finally  rimmed,  and  sent  below  through  a  hopper,  all  ready 
for  \ise,  in  a  surprisingly  short  space  of  time. 

The  whole  process  of  salmon  canning  by  this  establish- 
ment is  done  in  the  most  thorough  and  cleanly  manner.  No 
fish  are  used  except  fresh  from  the  water,  and  experienced 
superintendents  carefully  watch  every  operation  from  begin- 
ning to  end,  securing  the  highest  degree  of  perfection  possi- 
ble in  this  most  excellent  article  of  food. 


I 


FBOM  ASTORIi.  TO  TILLAMOOK  BAY. 

Soon  after  passing  Fort  Stevens  we  came  in  full 
view  of  the  raging  surf,  breaking  with  a  thundering 
roar,  along  a  front  of  more  than  five  miles.  A  storm  was 
brewing,  a  fog  obscured  the  buoys  of  the  tortuous  channel 
and  though  the  Yaquina  is  an  excellent  sea-boat,  and  Gapt. 
Denny  a  brave  and  experienced  muster,  it  was  thought  best 
to  round-to  and  anchor  under  the  lee  of  Sand  Island  for 
more  favorable  weather. 

The  tardiness  of  the  Government  in  providing  every 
facility  for  the  safe  navigation  of  the  Columbia  is  the  cause 
of  much  complaint  on  the  part  of  shipmasters,  merchants 
and  thv^  traveling  public.  I  was  much  su prised  to  find  no 
signal  Juration  at  so  important  a  port  of  entry.  The  passen- 
ger transportation  alone  exceeds  3500  a  month,  and  demands 
every  possible  safeguard. 

The  storm  abated  during  the  night,  and  at  8  o'clock  the 
following  morning  we  rode  safely  over  the  Columbia  bar  into 
a  comparatively  smooth  sea. 

Sailing  southward,  Oregon  first  presents  some  ten  miles 
of  low  lands,  occupied  chiefly  by  dairymen. 

The  Sea-side  Hotel,  a  favorite  summer  resort  of  the 
Portlauders  and  Astorians,  built  by  Ben.  Holliday,  is  situa- 
ted here. 

Soon  the  Coast  Mountains  confront  the  ocean,  ragged 
and  thick?/  wooded,  Tillamook  head-light  standing  sentinel 
upon  a  huge  rock,  one  mile  and  one-eighth  from  the  shore. 

During  a  seven  r*,orra,  about  a  year  ago,  the  workmen 
then  engaged  in  erectit^;  this  light-house,  h^ard  loud  cries  of 
disti^ns,  an(T  through       '.e  darkness  could  just  discern  the 


TILLAMOOK  BAT. 


237 


outlines  of  t,  ship  dashing  helplessly  upon  the  rocks.  In 
the  morning  the  beach  was  strewn  with  the  wreck  and  the 
dead  bodies  of  the  officers  and  crew,  not  a  soul  surviving  to 
tell  the  story  of  that  awful  night. 

Next  the  mouth  of  the  Nehalom,  where  excellent  coal  has 
recently  been  discovered,  then  a  long  stretch  of  maguificeut 
beach,  succeeded  I  y  a  bold,  rocky  shore,  to 

TILLAMOOK  BAY,  45  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  This  is  a  fine  body  of  water,  about  14  miles 
long  and  six  miles  wide,  almost  completely  land-locked,  full 
of  salmon,  bass,  clams,  crabs  and  other  fish,  its  shores 
thickly  timbered  with  spruce  and  fir,  abounding  with  elk, 
deer  and  bear. 

John  Hobson,  who  rode  down  the  Columbia  lii\,sr  in  an 
Indian  canoe  89  years  ago,  came  with  us  to  expend 
$40,000  here  in  the  building  of  a  salmon  fishery  and  can- 
nery, greatly  to  the  delight  of  the  old  oettlers,  who  have 
been  patiently  waiting  these  20  years  for  something  to  turn 
up  for  the  benefit  of  beautiful  Tillamook. 

There  are  about  26  American  families  and  a  small  rem- 
nant of  the  Tillamook  tribfc  of  Indians  living  immediately 
upon  the  bay,  and  a  large  settlement  occupying  an  exteifsive 
opening  on  the  southeast  side.  They  are  engaged  chiefiy  in 
dairying,  lumbering  and  stock-raising. 

There  is  a  considerable  body  of  surveyed  Government 
land  lying  to  the  north  and  east  along  the  western  slope  of 
the  Coast  Range,  which  though  much  broken,  will  afford 
many  desirable  situations  for  those  seeking  homes  in 
Oregon. 

We  reached  this  pleasant  harbor  just  in  time  to  escape 
a  severe  southwester,  which  raged  for  forty  hours,  break- 
ing up  rafts,  logs  and  liunber,  and  threatening  to  drive  us 
from  our  anchorage.  The  following  day  we  ventured  to  sea 
again,  encountering  a  strong  head  wind  and  heavy  sea,  both 
increasing  in  violence,  until  our  little  ship  was  bare))'  able 
to  stem  the  storm. 

"The  glass  is  going  up  rapidly;  it  will  blow  a  gale  to- 
night," said  Captain  Moody,  in  a  low  tone,  as  he  passed  'XiQ 
on  the  forward  deck. 


238 


OBEOON. 


Mil 


All  eyes  were  fixed  upon  a  locomotive  and  tender  com- 
plete, standing  upon  timbers  across  the  hatchway,  which 
though  strongly  lashed  and  blocked,  began  to  surge  alarm- 
ingly. 

"Look  out!"  shouted  Captain  Denny  from  his  post 
by  the  wheel-house;  "if  she  goes,  you'll  be  crushed  or 
knocked  overboard  "  Stepping  from  my  exposed  position, 
just  as  a  heavy  sea  sent  the  vessel  reeling,  and  looking 
up,  I  saw  that  we  were  turning  back. 

Certain  passengers,  unknown  to  me,  had  persuaded 
the  Captain  to  attempt  to  recross  the  bar  of  Tillamook  bo- 
fore  the  tide  should  run  too  low,  rather  than  risk  the  dan- 
gers of  the  ocean  in  such  u  storm,  with  such  a  cargo,  and  no 
accessible  harbor  for  more  tlian  500  miles  ahead. 

Hoisting  all  sail,  we  fairly  flew  over  the  12  miles  it  had 
taken  us  more  tlian  three  hours  and  a  half,  under  full  steam, 
to  advance,  and  through  the  skillful  guidance  of  Captain 
Denny,  dashed  through  the  breakers,  over  the  bar,  to  a  safe 
anchorage  again. 

The  storm  raged  for  over  thirty  hours,  the  severest 
ever  known  here  at  this  season,  said  Mr.  Meggason,  who  had 
lived  at  Cape  Foulweuther  27  years. 

Bosuming  oar  voyage,  rapidly  passing  Oyster  Bay  and 
Cascade  Head,  sighting  the  light  at  Cape  Foulweather  at 
ten  o'clock  at  night;  then  slacking  spend  for  flood-tide,  just 
at  day-break  we  rode  into  one  of  the  finest  little  harbors  on 
the  Pacific  coast. 


ii 


YAQUINA  BA.Y,  now  attracting  so  much  attention,  as 
the  ocean  terminus  of  the  Oregon  and  Pacific  Railroad,  is 
situtited  about  five  hundred  miles  north  of  San  Francisco, 
and  one  hundred  miles  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
It  is  about  six  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of  one  mile 
and  a  half,  its  rugged,  j)ieture8que  shores  covered  with  fir, 
spruce  and  pine  A  deep  sea  channel  extends  to  Oneatta, 
there  being  twenty-five  feet  of  water  off"  tlie  railroad  wharf, 
one  mile  below,  and  six  miles  from  the  entrance.  I  noted 
caret'nlly  the  soundings,  as  we  crossed  the  bar,  made 
by  M.'te  John  Jnquos,  an  experienced  and  excellent  leads- 


EXCUKSTOJfS   FROM   PORTLAND. 


239 


man,  formerly  employed  in  the  Government  Coast  Survey  in 
that  capacity.  The  tide  had  been  ebbing  about  fifty  minutes 
when  the  first  throw  was  made,  showing  23  feet,  then  21,  20, 
17,  22,  24  feet,  when  Captain  Denny,  who  was  Master  of  the 
Government  steamer  employed  in  its  survey,  remarked,  "Wo 
are  over."  The  channel  is  narrow  but  straight,  and  the  soft 
sand-stone  formation  of  the  short  bar  favorable  to  its  per- 
manent removal  by  blasting.  It  can,  without  doubt,  be 
deepened  sufficiently  to  admit  of  the  safe  passage  of  deep 
draught  ships  in  all  ordinary  weather. 

The  Oregon  and  Pacific  Bailroad,  reaching  the  great 
ocean  highway  at  this  point,  begins  at  Boise  City,  crossing 
Central  Oregon  via  Bpker  City  and  Corvallis,  through  the 
heart  of  its  richest  valleys. 

Yaquina  Bay,  already  much  resorted  to  in  summer,  prom- 
ises to  become  the  favorite  sea-side  watering-place  of  this 
region.  The  pretty  little  village  of  Newport  is  nestled  cozily 
nnder  the  sheltering  bluffs,  on  the  northern  side. 

The  bay  is  alive  with  fish  and  fowl — rockbass,  halibut, 
smelt,  herring,  flounders,  salmon,  sturgeon,  clams,  oysters, 
geese,  ducks  and  other  kinds.  Large  game  is  plentiful  in 
the  bordering  forests — deer,  elk,  cougar,  etc. 

There  is  a  splendid  bathing  beach,  delightful  camping- 
grounds,  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent  water,  and  good 
hotel  accommodations. 

The  back  lying  country,  for  more  than  fifty  miles,  known 
as  the  "Burnt  District,"  though  generally  rough  and 
mountainous,  requiring  considerable  labor  to  clear  and  re- 
claim, is  scarcely  less  prr^dnctive  than  the  richest  bottoms, 
and  well  adapted  for  mixed  farming  and  dairying. 

Veins  of  coal,  said  to  be  of  good  quality,  have  been  dis- 
covered near  the  bay,  and  large  bodies  of  fir,  spruce  and 
cedar  timber  grow  on  the  SiletzandElk  Rivers,  the  principal 
streams  flowing  into  it. 

Trip  No.  4. — From  Portland  tip  the  WUkimpite  River  to  Cor- 
valliH,  the  fiead  of  Hteanil)oat  navigaiion.  Round  IVip,  228 
miles. 

The  Willamette  River,  excepting  the  Columbia,  is  the 
principal  stream  west  of  the  Cascade  Range  of  mountains. 


240 


ORMON. 


It  in  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Mackenzie,  middle  and 
east  forks,  and  the  waters  of  over  40  tributary  rivers  and 
creeks,  draining  a  water-shed  of  some  20,000  square  miles. 
The  Willamette  Valley  comprises  such  an  important  part  of 
Oregon,  that  for  a  long  time,  and  until  a  comparatively  recent 
period,  it  has  received  almost  exclusive  mention  abroad  in 
connection  with  its  agricultural  resources,  though  some  other 
sections  are  just  as  fertile  and  attractive.  It  contains  more 
than  half  of  the  entire  population  of  the  State,  about  60,000 
of  whom  occupy  the  cities  and  towns  built  on  the  banks  of 
the  Willamette. 

First — Portland,  the  chief  city  of  the  North  Pacific 
Coast,  situated  ou  the  west  bank  12  miles  from  its  confluence 
with  the  Columbia,  contains  a  population  of  upwards  of 
25, 000.  It  is  the  great  center  of  trade,  commerce  and  trans- 
portaitfatn  for  this  whole  region.  Her  steamships  and  vessels 
sail  to  Mie  most  distant  seas — her  railroads  traverse  nearly 
every  portion  of  Oregon  and  Washington,  and  steamers 
ascend  every  navigable  river. 

We  started  from  the  Ains worth  Dock  in  that  city  at  6  a.m., 
on  the  O.  R.  &  Go's  steamer  Occident,  Capi.  Bell,  which 
makes  regular  trips  throughout  the  year  to  Salem  (70  miles) ; 
and  during  high  stage  of  water,  114  miles  to  Corvallis,  some- 
times going  us  far  as  Eugene  City,  172  miles  from  Portland. 
There  art)  31  different  landings  on  the  river,  14  of  which  are 
towns  and  villages.  The  boat  stops  at  about  20  of  these 
landings,  ou  an  average,  each  way. 

OREGON  CITY,  12 miles  from  Portland,  on  the  east  bank, 
is  the  most  interesting  point.  It  contains  a  population  of 
about  1200.  Here  the  river  falls  some  40  feet,  faced  by  high 
perpendicular  walls  of  basaltic  rock,  the  town  being  built 
on  a  nari'ow  Htrip  beneath,  and  upon  the  picturesque  fir- 
covored  slope  al)ovo.  Its  magnificent  water-power  is  im- 
))roved  by  woollen,  flour,  paper  and  other  mills.  The  falls 
are  surmounted  by  means  of  five  locks,  each  one  raising  the 
l>oat  eight  feet,  the  passage  consuming  about  40  minutes. 
When  a  short  distance  above,  Mr.  Chamberlain  (the  mate) 
says  that  there  is  nothing  more  worth  seeing  —that  a  thick 


OREGON  orrr. 


241 


growth  of  fir,  cottonwood,  willow,  etc.,  along  the  banks, 
shuts  off  all  distant  views.  Though  this  is  comparatively 
true,  the  trip  is  far  from  being  a  monotonous  one. 

For  a  considerable  distance  above  there  are  frequent 
farm  opening  ..ith  numerous  orchards,  and  occasionally  a 
pleasant  homjlike  place,  surrounded  by  lawns,  filled  with 
flowers  and  ornamental  trees;  then  islands,  rivers,  creeks, 
narrow  channels,  sandbars,  old  river  beds,  and  various  for- 
mations and  timber  growths — besides,  the  towns  and  their 
inhabitants  engage  the  attention.  Above  Oregon  City  the 
river  (which  maintains  an  average  width  of  about  200  yards'^ 
is  now  confined  within  its  banks,  which  are  from  eight  to 
twenty-five  feet  in  height,  exhibiting  uniformly  a  deep  gray- 
ish alluvial  loam,  with  a  clayey  subsoil.  During  the  winter 
rise,  the  river  is  sometimes  bank  full;  and  since  within  20 
years  (1861  and  1881)  has  flooded  the  whole  back  lying 
country  for  a  distance  of  from  five  to  ten  miles. 

At  ButteviUe  (a  little  village  29  miles  up  on  the  east  bank) 
an  old  lady  gets  aboard,  who  says  she  once  embarked  in  a 
small  boat  from  the  doorstep  of  the  church — now  full  15  feet 
above  the  present  Avater  level.  Capt.  Bell  (who  has  run  on 
the  river  for  about  15  years)  told  me  that  its  channel  is  con- 
stantly changing,  and  pointed  out  old  river-beds  now  high 
and  dry,  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  cottonwood,  over 
which  he  had  sailed  scores  of  times  in  former  years.  But 
by  the  judicious  expenditure  of  the  appropriation  made  for 
its  improvement — from  $12,000  to  $20,000  annually  in  re- 
moving snags  and  dredging  sandbars — its  navigation  is  made 
comparatively  easy  and  safe.  Opposite  Champoeg  (a  vil- 
lage of  some  25  houses  on  the  east  side)  the  Bald  Hills  are 
first  visible.  They  are  not  extensive,  but  their  bare,  brown 
slopes  form  a  striking  contrast  with  the  luxuriant  vegetation 
which  covers  most  of  this  region. 

Forty  miles  up,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Yamhill — a 
small  sluggish  stream,  navigable  for  19  miles  to  McMinville. 
At  Feaster's  Rock  the  first  bad  sandbar  was  reached,  but  as 
the  Occident  only  drew  about  18  inches  of  water,  it  is 
crossed  without  diflicultj'.  The  Captain  said  the  worst  ob- 
structions are  suags  near  Salem,  and  sandbars  at  the  mouth 


242 


OREGON. 


of  the  Luckiaiuute.  Two  landings  more  at  Wheatland  and 
Lincoln,  small  villages  on  the  west  bank,  and  we  reached 

SALEM,  the  capital.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Willamette,  72  miles  from  Portland  by  river,  and 
52  by  rail.  It  contains  a  population  of  about  300U,  and  is  an 
important  manufacturing  point.  The  Santiam  Biver  here 
afibrds  a  great  water-power,  which  is  being  utilized  by  ex- 
tensive woollen  and  flour  mills,  already  in  operation  or  in 
course  of  erection.  Independence,  ten  miles  above  on  the 
west  bank,  is  a  flourishing  town  of  some  500  inhabitants. 
At  Buena  Vista,  ten  miles  further,  the  Occident  lay  over 
until  morning,  the  upper  river  being  too  lov/  for  safe  nav- 
igation at  night.  The  most  extensive  pottery  works  north 
of  San  Francisco  arc  bituated  here,  manufacturing  about  30 
tons  of  ware  weekly  —  cumprisiug  jars,  jugs,  flower-pots, 
water-pipes,  etc.  Considerable  attention  is  being  paid  to 
hop  culture  on  the  opposite  bank.  One  field  of  12  acres 
produced  $3500  worth  last  yeur. 

Resuming  our  journey,  a  run  of  two  hours  brought  us  to 


ALBANY,  103  miles  from  Portland.  This  city  is  finely  sit- 
uated on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  in  the  center  of  a  very 
rich  wheat-growing  district,  and  contains  a  population  of 
about  3000.  The  Santiam  River  also  supplies  Albany  with 
almost  unlimited  wuter-power,  already  utilised  by  large  flour 
and  other  mills.  At  8  A.M.,  we  arrived  at  Corvallis,  thohead 
of  navigation,  except  for  very  light-draught  boats  during 
high  water — 114  miles  from  Portland.  It  is  pleasantly  lo- 
cated on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  and  has  a  population  of 
about  1200.  The  Agricultural  College  is  situated  here.  The 
Oregon  and  Pacific  Railroad  is  now  in  course  of  construc- 
tion from  this  point  to  Yaqnina  Bay,  its  ocean  terminus. 

Within  an  hour  the  boat  had  finished  discharging  and 
receiving  freight,  and  was  on  her  return  to  Portland. 
Reaching  Salem  at  an  early  hour  and  lying  up  over  night, 
aftbrded  an  opportunity  to  visit  the  public  buildings,  flour 
mills,  etc.  The  State  Capitol  is  a  large,  plain  structure  in  a 
half-finished  state,  built  for  convenience,  without  muci^ 
regard  for  architectural  beauty.     The  County  Court-house  is 


COLUMBIA    RIVER   SCENERY. 


243 


u  much  fiuer  building.  At  the  Salem  flouring  mill  (the 
liirgest  in  the  State)  I  saw  ten  run  of  stone  grinding  at  the 
rate  of  500  barrels  of  flour  dailj.  They  ship  directly  from 
Portland  to  Liverpool — and  run  day  and  night  to  supply  the 
demand. 

At  Fairlield,  15  miles  below  on  the  east  bank,  the  boat 
received  3000  bushels  of  wheat  for  the  Oregon  City  mills. 
During  a  stoppage  of  two  hours  for  its  delivery,  I  visited 
the  Imperial  flouring  mill,  the  largest  here,  having  eight 
I'un  of  stone,  and  manufacturing  about  500  barrels  every  24 
hours;  and  also  the  Oregon  City  woollen  mills,  the  most  ex- 
tensive north  of  California.  They  operate  11  set  of  looms, 
employing  215  men  and  women — manufacturing  blankets, 
flannels,  reversible  cloths,  cassimeres,  buggy-robes,  shawls, 
etc.,  in  great  variety  and  oi  superior  excellence. 

This  brief  description  is  only  suggestive  of  the  objects 
of  interest  to  the  observing  traveler  on  the  Willamette.  The 
physical  features  of  a  country,  its  resources,  and  the  state, 
and  means  of  their  development,  are  subjects  of  absorbing 
interest;  but  the  study  of  the  peculiar  characteristics  and 
habits  of  the  people  occupying  it,  and  met  in  passing 
through  it,  is  hardly  less  so. 

Trip  No.  4. — Up  tlie  Columbia  River  and  ihrowjh  the  Walla 
WdUa,  Touchet  and  Snake  River  Valleya  to  Texas  Ferry ; 
and  from  IVallala  Junction  to  Pend-de-Orcille  Lake,  Idaho. 
Round  trip,  1120  miles. 

There  is  probably  no  journey  of  equal  distance  upon  thiii 
continent,  so  remarkable  in  contrasts  and  wonderful  physical 
features,  as  that  from  Portland  to  the  Snake  Biver,  Idaho. 
It  presents  in  their  most  striking  forms,  the  infinite  oxpres- 
siunu  which  the  face  of  nature,  like  the  human  countenance, 
assumes.  To  the  old  military  station  at  Vancouver,  and  for 
miles  above,  the  broad,  deep  river  sweeps  silently  and 
grandly  through  the  green  forests  and  meadows,  affording 
varied  and  impressive  views,  but  only  by  the  volume  of  the 
waters,  and  by  the  mountains  from,  and  through  which  they 
come,  suggesting  the  untold  grandeur  of  the  scenes  beyond. 
Then  thu  river  grows  more  rapid,  its  banks  are  higher,  and 


9U 


OBMON, 


' 


often  rooky  and  precipitous,  and  the  rugged  sides  of  the  Cas- 
cade Range,  rising  higher  and  higher,  approach  nearer  and 
nearer  on  either  side,  as  if  they  would  close  up  again  the 
rock-bound  passage  they  have  been  forced  to  yi*>ld.  Vast 
ledges  and  columns  of  bare  basaltic  rock,  detached  by  some 
mighty  force,  now  rise  hundreds  of  feet,  with  perpendicular 
walls  above  us.  This  is  only  the  beginning  of  the  gi-andeur 
of  these  most  sublime  exhibitions  of  nature.  Approaching 
the  Lower  Cascades,  mountains,  forests,  rivers  and  water- 
falls unite  their  wonders  for  a  crowning  display.  Mountain 
walls  of  adamantine  rock,  roasted,  seamed  and  blackened  by 
volcanic  fires,  narrow  the  now  turbulent  river.  Surmount- 
ing these,  far  above,  upon  successive  terraces,  by  the  hun- 
dred and  the  thousand  feet,  up  to  the  very  summits,  5,000 
feet,  rise  hugh  basaltic  castles,  cathedrals,  domes  and 
towers,  which  dwarf  to  comparative  insignificance,  all  of  the 
creations  or  conceptions  of  man.  From  a  single  point  are 
seen  four  water-falls,  dashing  down  the  mountain  side,  leap- 
ing from,  cliflf  to  cliff,  from  one  hundred  to  seven  hundred 
feet  at  a  bound.  Down  the  six  miles  of  rapids  between  the 
Upper  and  Lower  Cascades,  the  pent-up  river  rushes,  roar- 
ing and  foaming  among  the  rocks.  For  sixty  miles,  this 
matchless  iianorama  of  God's  wonder-land  rivets  the  gaze, 
and  humbles  the  soul  of  the  spectator.  Beyond  the  divide, 
greater  diversity  of  scene  brings  welcome  relief  to  the  strain- 
ing eyes.  Here  the  mountains  sometimes  recede,  and  the 
forests  give  way  to  pleasant,  grassy  nlopes;  again  they  ivre 
torn  open  by  impetuous  mountain  streams,  and  we  catch 
glimpses  of  the  deep,  dark  gorges,  cut  out  by  their  headlong 
descent.  At  the  mouth  of  Hood  lliver,  on  the  right,  and 
Klickitat  on  the  left,  green  valleys  present  their  smiling 
faces,  and  the  homes  of  the  pioneers  are  seen  on  the 
hill-sides.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Salmon  River,  an  immense 
scow  was  loading  with  250  cords  of  wood,  shot  on  to  her 
from  the  mountain  side  six  miles  distant,  through  a  water- 
chute,  with  the  velocity  of  an  arrow. 

Wo  were  on  the  steamer  Harvest  Queen,  and  here  ex- 
changed salutes  with  the  passengers  of  the  Mountain  Queen, 
on  her  downward  trip  to  the  Cascades    Nearing  The  Dalles, 


THE   DALLES. 


245 


the  river  flows  with  swifter  current,  between  porpendicixlar 
walls,  harder  than  granite,  thrice  higher  than  over  built  by 
man,  and  overtopped  here  and  there  with  storm-scarred  for- 
tresses and  battlements  fit  for  the  battles  of  the  gods.  The 
pine-clad  summits  of  the  mountains  still  rise  far  above  in 
the  background  on  the  right;  but  on  the  left,  our  eyes  greet 
the  first  broad  expanse  of  smooth,  green,  rolling  hills, 
fringed  with  fir  and  spruce,  A.  solitary  horseman  suddenly 
appeared  upon  the  edge  of  an  overhanging  bluff  five  Imn- 
dred  feet  or  more  above  us,  and  halting  his  fine  steed,  sur- 
veyed us  with  the  air  of  a  military  chieftain. 

One  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Portland,  wo  reached 


THE  DALLES,  the  most  important  city  of  Eastern 
Oregon,  containing  a  population  of  2300.  It  is  picturesquely 
situated  —the  business  portion  under  the  high,  precipitous 
river  bluffs,  the  residences  occupying  the  eastward-sloping 
foot-hills  of  the  Cascade  Range,  hundreds  of  feet  above. 
An  extensive  scope  of  rich  agricultural  and  grazing  country' 
lies  to  the  southeastward.  Here  we  took  leave  of  the  moun- 
tains and  the  forests,  and  enter  the  "Great  Plains  of  the 
Columbia, "  and  of  Washington  Territory. 


WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 


1 


! 


\ 


f 


WASHINGTON — which,  prior  to  the  parchane  of  Alaska, 
was  the  extreme  northwestera  territory  of  the  United  States 
— extends  from  the  British  possessions  on  the  north,  about 
200  miles  to  the  Columbia  Biver  on  the  south;  and 
from  Idaho  on  the  east,  about  350  miles  west  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  It  embraces,  including  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound, 
an  area  of  69,994  square  miles,  or  35,000,000  acres.  Ex- 
clusive of  water  surfnco  and  mountains  unfit  for  use  or  occu- 
pation, there  are  pvobnbly  upwards  of  20,000,000  acres  of 
forest,  10,000,000  of  plains  and  prairies,  and  5,000,000  acres 
of  bottom  lands. 

Down  to  1840,  Washington  was  an  unknown  wilderness, 
except  to  the  native  tribes  and  a  few  daring  explorers. 
About  this  time,  missionaries  and  the  Hudson  Bay  CoiujKiuy 
established  the  fir.st  settlement  of  wliite  men.  In  1H53,  a 
Territorial  Government  was  organized.  The  census  of  18G0 
showed  a  population  of  11,505;  of  1870,  23,905;  and  of 
1880,  75,000. 

The  comparative  slowness  of  its  progress  for  many  years 
was  mainly  due  to  its  isolation,  and  the  character  of  its  re- 
sources, which  in  tlie  most  accessible  portions  west  of  the 
mountains  required  considerable  capital  for  their  develop- 
ment and  utilization.  The  increasing  demand  for  building 
material  and  fuel  by  the  rapidly  augmenting  population  of 
the  Southern  Pacific  Coast,  and  other  timberless  regions,  is 
now  opening  for  their  use  the  resources  of  her  vast  forests 
and  fields  of  coal. 

MOUNTAINS. 

The  Cascade  Mountains  extend  across  Washington  in  a 
northwesterly  direction,  at  a  distance  of  about  125  miles 
from  the  Pacific,  with  an  elevation  ranging  from  3000  to 
13,000  feet  aLove  the  sea;  they  create  two  divisions,  the  op- 
posite in  climate,  soil  and  natural  productions.     The  Coast 


tHY8IGAL  FEATURES  OF  WASHlNGToS  TEKHITi'HY.     247 

M ountainH  (!over  the  extreme  western  and  northwestern  por- 
tion— the  Olympic  Range  rising  over  8000  feet,  embracing 
the  country  north  of  the  fifth  standard  of  parallel,  surrounded 
by  the  ocean,  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  am^  Hood's 
Canal.  They  aio  generally  covered  with  fort  sts  of  fir, 
spruce,  cedar  and  pine,  but  comprise  many  lif^htly  timbered 
openings  and  rich  valley  bottoms. 

RIVERS. 

The  Columbia  River,  rising  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
flows  through  the  northeastern  portion  of  the  Territory,  and 
forms  its  southern  boundary  from  near  the  mouth  of  Snake 
River  to  the  ocea-.i.  The  elevated  jilaius  tlirough  which  it 
courses  east  of  the  mountains  are  known  as  "The  Great 
Plains  "  of  the  Columbia  and  of  the  Spokane  Rivers.  West 
of  the  Cascade  Range  it  gives  its  name  to  the  Great  Basin 
extending  from  the  Calapooia  Mountains  of  Oreg^  u,  on  the 
south,  more  than  300  miles  north,  to  Puget  Sound.  Its 
principal  Washington  tributiiries  are  the  Spokane,  Okana- 
gan,  Methou,  Chelan,  Enteatwa,  Wenatchoe,  Snake,  Walla 
Walla,  Yakima,  Klickitat,  Washougal,  Cath-la-pootle,  Lewis 
and  Cowlitz  Rivers.  The  Lumni,  Swinamish,  Skagit, 
Steilaguamish,  Snohomish,  Duwamish,  Black,  Puyallup,  Nis- 
qually,  Des  Chutes  and  Skokomish  Rivers  empty  into  the 
waters  of  Puget  Sound;  and  the  Salmon,  Dnngeness,  Elwha, 
Lyre,  Psyche  and  Hoko,  rising  in  the  Olympic  Mountains, 
flow  into  the  Straits  of  Fuc.i.  The  ocean  slope  of  the  Coast 
Range  is  drained  by  the  Hosett,  Quillehute,  Gharlat,  Queets, 
Shaklett,  Quinault,  Chehalis,  Willopali,  Silver,  Bear  and 
other  I'ivers. 

LAKES. 

Washington.  Whatcom,  Quinault,  Kacholus,  Kahchess, 
Lleealum  and  Coville,  are  the  largest  lakes  in  the  Territory. 

BAYS   AND   HARBORS   ON   THE   PACIFIC. 

Washington  has  a  coast  line  of  245  miles;  Shoal  water 
Bay  and  Gray's  Harbor  are  accessible  (except  in  stormy 
weather)  for  vessels  drawing  12  feet  of  water.  They  abound 
with  shell-fish,  codfish,  sturgeon,  and  innumerable  water- 
fowl. 


248 


WAaHimVON  TERRITORY. 


I 


VALLEYS. 

The  Walla  Walla,  Suake,  Palouso  and  Yakima,  of  East- 
ern Washington;  and  the  Cowlitz,  Chehalis,  Bkagit,  Puyal- 
lup  and  Chimacum,  of  Western,  are  the  principal  valleys. 

THE  aEOLOGICAIj   FORMATION 

Which  characterizes  Oregon  prevails  in  Washington.  A 
fine,  light,  volcanic  ash,  intermixed  with  sand,  gravel  and 
decomposed  basalt  rock— the  latter  protruding  above  the 
surface  in  many  places,  especially  along  the  water-courses; 
dry,  elevated,  rolling,  timberless  plains,  covered  with  bunch- 
grass  and  sage-brush,  are  its  prominent  features  east  of  the 
mountains.  The  surface  deposits  and  formations  of  Western 
Washington  are  less  uniform.  A  light,  moist,  gravelly  (and 
often  rocky)  soil,  mixed  with  decomposed  vegetable  matter, 
prevails  on  the  uplands.  Along  the  river  bottoms  a  deep, 
wet,  dark,  rich  alluvial  and  peat  soil  is  most  common, 
with  forests  almost  everywhere.  Extensive  coal  and  iron 
fields  surround  Puget  Sound;  gold  is  also  found  in  paying 
quantities. 

THE  ZOOLOOY  AND  ORNITHOLOOY 

Of  Washington  corresponds  with  that  of  Oregon.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  fields  for  sportsmen  in  the  world.  Its 
growth  of  trees,  shrubs,  plants  and  grasses  also  closely  re- 
sembles that  of  Oregon. 

CLIMATE. 

No  two  sections  of  country  lying  so  near  together,  pre- 
sent greater  contrasts  of  climate  than  Eastern  and  Western 
Washington.  The  former  is  dry,  clear  and  windy;  free  from 
all  malaria,  hot  at  mid-day,  cool  at  night,  with  frequent 
summer  frosts;  the  winters  short,  but  sometimes  severe; 
snows  generally  light,  but  occasionally  covering  the  grasses 
until  stock  suffers.  The  rainfall  ranges  from  8  to  20  inches; 
the  summer  temperature  from  30 '  to  100^  above,  the  winter 
from  60°  above  to  20°  below  zero. 

The  climate  of  Western  Washington  is  moist  and  cloudy; 
uniformly  cool,  seldom  hot;  some  malaria  in  the  bottoms, 
though  generally  very  healthy;  cool  at  night,  sometimes 


PHTBIOAL  FEATURES  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY.     249 

frosty ;  winters  usually  mild  with  but  little  snow,  which  soon 
melts.  The  rainfall  varies  from  50  to  130  inches;  the  sum- 
mer temperature  from  40°  to  90°  above;  the  winter  from  CO" 
above  to  15 '  below. 

PRODUCTS  AND  INDUSTRIES. 

Stock  and  wheat  raising  are  the  gi'eat  natural  pursuits  of 
Eastern  Washington.  Millions  of  acres  afford  the  choicest 
bunch-grass  grazing  in  the  world ;  an  immense  area  produces 
most  bountiful  crops  of  wheat  of  unsurpassed  oxcollence. 
The  butter  made  in  the  upper  Columbia  country  is  of  supe- 
rior quality.  A  variety  of  fruits  flourish  in  the  Walla  W^alla 
and  Touchet  valleys;  corn  does  well  in  a  few  localities. 
There  are  magnificent  water-powers,  especially  at  Spokane 
Falls,  which  is  destined  to  become  the  great  manufacturing 
centre  of  this  region.  West  of  the  mountains,  lumber,  coal, 
iron,  fish  and  lime,  are  the  great  natural  productions.  There 
are  also  extensive  bodies  of  land  adapted  to  agriculture  and 
grazing;  farming,  dairying  and  sheep  raising  are  already  im- 
portant pursuits.  All  kinds  of  hardy  fruits  and  vegetables 
grow  in  abundance.  The  nights  are  too  cool  for  corn, 
peaches,  tomatoes  and  melons,  except  in  a  few  exceptionally 
warm  and  sheltered  situations.  Large  crops  of  wheat,  oats, 
barley  and  hay  are  raised,  and  hops  of  superior  quality  on 
the  bottom  lands. 

TRIP  PROM  PORTLAND  THROUGH  THE  GREAT  COLUMBIA  PLAINS  AND 
WALLA  WALLA  COUNTRY,  CONTINUED. 

From  The  Dalles,  the  railroad  runs  along  the  left  or 
south  bank  of  the  river  for  a  considerable  distance,  which 
with  a  mighty  and  impetuous  flow  cuts  its  way  through  the 
solid  basaltic  rock.  A  few  Indians  crawl  out  of  their  miser- 
able huts  and  hovels,  and  look  at  the  passing  train.  Now  a 
range  of  sand  hills  extends  for  many  miles.  It  drifts  like 
snow  before  the  strong  winds  which  sweep  up  the  river  from 
the  ocean,  sometimes  covering  and  obstructing  the  track  for 
hours. 

At  Wallulu  Junction,  126  miles  from  The  Dalles,  the  Co- 
lumbia turns  northward,  the  O.  B.  &  N.  Co's  line  continuing 
its  eastward  course  up  the  valley  of  the  Walla  Walla  30  mil^s 


I 


! 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


f  fl  f  I 

i  I 


:  ": 


to  Walla  Walla;  and  from  thence,  rnnuing  northeastr«rard 
across  tlie  Touchet  and  Tncanuon  valleys  56  miles  to  Texas 
Ferry  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Snake  Kiver,  78  miles  from 
Lewiston,  Idaho.  The  rocks  and  sand  hills  are  gradually 
succeeded  by  sage-brush  and  bunch-grass,  the  latter  gaining 
ground  as  we  advaiice. 

WALLA  WAIjTjA  is  a  flouriehiug  city  of  some  4000  in- 
habitants, occupying  a  central  situation  in  the  Walla  Walla 
Valley,  about  900  feet  above  thp  sea.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
very  extensive  oody  of  the  richest  wheat,  grazing  and  fruit 
lands.  The  yield  of  grain  here  is  large,  averaging  about  20 
bushels  per  acre,  and  the  quality  unsurpassed.  The  Walla 
Walla  is  a  warm  valley,  growing  fine  peaches,  melons  and 
gi'ape'?  in  abundance.  Stock  ranges  at  large  throughout  the 
year,  subsisting  entirely  upon  the  naLive  grasses.  Aboat 
every  sixth  wintei ,  on  an  average,  it  sustains  severe  losses  from 
cold  and  stpfvation. 

Between  W^aiia  Walla  and  Snake  River  lies  an  immense 
area,  exoellontly  adapted  either  to  farming,  Atock-raising,  or 
dairying.  The  general  surfuee  of  the  country  is  inviting  — 
consisting  of  eleval/^d  plains,  high  rolling  hills,  and  pleasant 
valleys.  The  climate  is  one  of  the  most  desirablo  in  the 
Union — comparatively  mild,  p^e  isant  and  healthful.  It  is 
watered  b^  ilxt>  onake  River  and  its  tributaries,  the  Walla 
Walla,  Touchet,  Pataha,  Tucannon,  Alpowa,  Asottin,  and 
other  streams.  The  principal  towns  and  settlements  are 
situated  upon  their  banks;  Day  ton  the  most  important  place, 
with  upwards  of  1500  inhabitants,  upon  the  Touchet;  Grange 
City  and  Marengo  on  the  Tucannon;  Pomeroy  and  Pataha 
City  on  the  Pataha.  The  O.  B..  &  N.  Go's  lines  of  transpor- 
tation, by  rail  and  river,  will  soon  traverse  ..his  whole  region. 
They  are  now  operated  to  Lewiston,  Idaho — 134  miles  from 
Walla  V/alla,  56  miles  by  rail  to  Texas  Ferry,  and  from 
thence  by  steamer  up  the  Snake  River  78  miles.  A  branch 
also  runs  from  Bolles  Junction  (14  miles)  to  Dayton. 


N 


THE  GREAT  PLAINS   OF  THE  VOLUMBIA. 


261 


FROM    WALLULA  JtJNOTION,  W.  T. ,  PEND  D  OBIELLE,    LAKE  IDAHO, 
OVER  THE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 

Betuming  to  Wallala  Junction,  I  resumed  my  journej 
over  the  great  Columbia  and  Bp^^kane  Plains.  Here  I  made 
connection  with  the  Northern  Pacific,  bound  for  Lake 
Pend  d'Oreille,  233  mileA  northeast.  Twelve  miles  out  the 
train  was  ferried  over  the  Snake  Biver  to  Ainsworth,  situated 
on  the  right  bank,  near  its  mouth.  A  force  of  men  were 
unloading  from  scows  great  blocks  of  granite  for  the  abut- 
roeuts  and  piers  of  the  railroad  bridge  soon  to  span  the 
river  here. 

This  is  a  sandy,  sage-brush,  wind-swept  section,  lying 
directly  in  the  pathway  of  the  strong  ocean  winds  which 
rush  up  the  Columbia,  cooling  and  moistening  the  dry, 
heated  atmosphere  of  the  interior.  But  even  here,  upon 
these,  to  all  appearances,  the  most  unpromising  of  lands, 
the  crops  of  grain,  potatoes,  etc.,  growing  upon  the  experi- 
mental farms  recently  opened,  show  that  they  are  quite  pro- 
ductive when  sufficiently  moistened. 

The  rainfnll  is  less  than  at  any  other  point  east  of  the 
mountains,  i'ut  by  thorough  cultivation  these  fine  soils 
absorb  mo: stare  from  the  atmosphere  to  •\  surprising  de- 
gree This  description  applies  especially  to  the  country 
immediately  bordering  the  Lower  Snake  and  Middle  Colum- 
bia Bivers. 

For  more  than  60  miles  beyond  Ainsworth  the  road  runs 
through  broken,  rocky,  sage-brusli  lauds. 

Bailroads  following  the  cheapest  routes  and  grades,  fre- 
quently traverse  the  most  desolate  portions  of  the  country. 
The  subsidence  of  the  waters  which  once  prevailed  over 
this  region,  left  a  comparative  desert  along  the  principal 
water-courses. 

From  five  to  eight  miles  back  fro'i  these  river-beds  the 
country  generally  improves  in  a  marked  degree,  the  soil  in- 
creasing in  depth  and  richness,  and  a  thick  growth  of  bnnoh 
grass,  aflfording  excellent  pasturage.  It  is,  therefore,  a  very 
poor  plivco  to  hunt  J,nd  from  a  railroad  train,  and  yet  tLou- 
sands  do  this.      A  young  man  sat  next  to  me  who  had  come 


m, 


■  i 


262 


WAaUINGTON  TERKITOnr. 


all  the  way  from  Iowa  in  search  of  a  home.  Arriving  at 
Portland,  and  proceeding  directly  up  the  Columbia,  thus 
■  far  he  had  seen  nothing  but  grand  rivers,  forests  and  moun- 
tains and  magnificent  scenery,  tlien  deserts  and  sage-brush 
plains,  all  most  satisfactory  to  the  tourist,  but  utterly  failing 
to  meet  his  expectationn  and  views  of  a  place  good  enough 
to  settle  down  upon  and  live  from.  Arriving  at  Sprague, 
where  the  trains  pass,  though  he  had  purchased  a  ticket  as 
far  as  Cheney,  he  gathered  up  his  baggage,  said  he  had  seen 
enough,  and  hurried  aboard  of  the  returning  car.  He 
doubtless  returned  to  Iowa,  and  told  his  neighbors  what  he 
knew  about  Eastern  Washington,  which,  of  course,  was  next 
to  nothing  at  all. 

The  country  grows  more  inviting  as  we  ad  v.vuce,  the 
sage-brush  disappearing,  the  rich,  green,  nutritious  bunch 
grass  covering  all  the  plains  and  hill-sides,  and  tho  black, 
unsightly  croppings  of  biisaltic  rock  becoming  less  fre- 
quent. 

Nearing  Ritzville  ranches,  houses,  cattio  and  horses  are 
seen  in  the  distance. 

About  15  miles  beyond,  we  reuch  Lake  Colville,  and, 
skirting  its  western  shores  for  several  miles,  suddenly  pass 
from  the  solitude  of  vast  treeless  and  almost  uninhabited 
plains,  into  the  bustling,  thriving  town  of 


if     t 


)  i 


SPRAGUE. — Thu  y;  Idenness  with  which  towns  spring 
up,  and  rapidly  grow  to  importance,  is  one  of  the  wonders 
of  this  railway  age. 

A  great  HCOj)e  of  good  farming  as  well  as  grazing  land  sur- 
rounds the  place.  It  is  well  watered,  and  supplied  with 
wufficient  wood  for  fuel  and  fencing,  conveniently  near. 

A  short  <li8tauce  from  Sprague  our  eyes  were  gladdened 
by  tlxe  sight  of  scattering  pine  and  hemlock.  We  all  love 
the  companionship  and  cheering  presence  and  the  protection 
of  the  trees.  We  tind  the  pioneers  clinging  close  to  tlie  na- 
tive groves  and  forestn,  and  when  compelled  to  go  out  upon 
the  lonely  plains,  they  plant  and  grow  them  around  their 
hojnes  an  soaii  a.4  pasHilik', 

In  IdTU  I  saw  hundreds  of  cabins  on  tlie  great  prairies  of 


SPOKANE   FALLS. 


253 


Western  Minuesotn  without  a  stick  of  live  wootl  lurgor  than 
a  riding-whip  within  »  day  &:  iourney.  liovisiting  tlie  sutnn 
seciion,  after  the  lapse  of  nine  years,  I  found  almost  every 
farm  house  in  a  pleasant  grove,  affording  not  only  graceful 
shade  and  shelter,  but  often  sufficient  fuel  for  household 
use.  Such  reuslts  may,  without  doubt,  be  realized  npov  the 
treeless  plains  of  the  upper  Columbia. 
Twenty-five  miles  further  brings  us  to 

CHENEY.  It  is  a  thriving,  promising  place,  very  i)loas- 
antly  Hituatod  among  the  pines,  the  county  seat  of  Spokane 
County,  site  of  the  Cheney  Academy,  and  Ixeadtiuarters  for 
the  railroad  land  department  of  this  region. 

MINERAL  LAKE,  reputed  to  possess  extraordinary 
healing  virtues,  is  situated  about  seven  miles  distant. 

There  are  extensive  bodies  of  rich  farming  lands  within 
a  radius  of  30  miles,  and  unlimited  tracts  beyond.  Hun- 
dreds are  finding  homes  here,  and  there  is  room  for  thou- 
sands more. 

Now  we  ride  16  miles,  through  level,  pine,  gravelly  open- 
ings, to 

SPOKANE  FALLS,  the  most  important  town  in  this 
region.  It  possesses  a  niugnificent  water  power,  situated  in 
the  heart  of  a  country  so  groat  in  extent  and  resources  that 
its  utilization  may  bo  regarded  as  certain.  Agriculture, 
stock  raising  and  manufacturing  combi'icd  will  build  up  a 
large  city  here. 

Leaving  Spokane,  the  timber  increases  in  density  and 
area,  becoming  a  thick  forest  where  we  cross  the  line  into 
Idaho,  179  miles  from  Wallula  Junction. 

NORTHERN  IDAHO  embraces  that  portion  of  the 
territory  lying  north  of  llie  Clearwater  River,  bounded  by 
Montana,  the  British  Possessions  and  Washington.  While 
mountains,  forests  and  lakes  cover  most  of  its  surface,  there 
are  extensive  bodies  of  land  lying  along  the  western  slope  of 
the  Bitter  Root  Range,  comprising  the  eastern  portions  of 
the  PalousG  and  Spokane  prairies,  capable  of  supporting  a 
large  population  by  farming  and  sto'^k-raising. 


f  -■ 


254 


WA8HIN0T0N  TERRITORY. 


\ 


ThiB  Potlach,  Genessee,  Paradise  and  other  rich  and 
well  watered  valleys  also  contain  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
acres  open  to  settlement  under  the  United  States  Land 
Laws. 

Forests  of  pine,  cedar  and  tamrack  now  prevail  to  Lake 
Pend  d'Oirtille. 

This  lake  is  about  75  miles  in  length,  witL  an  average 
width  of  two  and  OLe-half  miles,  and  from  25  to  80  feut  in 
depth,  and  full  of  htAB,  trout  and  other  fish. 

Its  shores  are  thickly  wooded  with  yellow  and  white  pine, 
cedar,  spruce  an<l  tamrack,  nnd  abound  with  black  bear,  deer 
and  mosquitoes. 

Trip  No.  5. — From  Portland,  Oregon,  to  tfie  iiexui  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Cotditz  Biver,  Washington  Territory,  20  miks 
higher  up  than  any  steamer  ever  ran  be/ore,  with  Captain 
Joseph  Kellogg.     Bound  trip,  230  mUea. 

The  Cowlitz  River  is  c.e  of  the  most  important  streams 
in  Washington  Territory,  west  of  the  Cascade  Range.  It 
rises  in  the  western  slope  of  these  mountains,  and  iiowing 
southerly,  empties  into  the  Columbia  River,  50  miles  from 
its  mouth,  eight  miles  below  Kalama,  and  50  miles  from 
Portland. 

It  is  navigable  throughout  most  of  the  year  to  Toledo,  45 
miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia,  and  at  high 
stages  of  water  20  miles  above. 

The  valley  of  the  Cowlitz  is  about  60  miles  in  length, 
varying  in  width  from  two  to  ten  miles. 

It  is  the  oldest  settled  in  the  territory,  having  been  occu- 
pied by  the  trading  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  more 
than  40  years  ago. 

It  is  traversed  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  as  far  as 
Olequa,  28  miles  from  Kalama,  bv  rail,  where  the  Cowlitz 
turns  eastward  toward  the  mountains. 

A  line  of  steamers,  comprising  the  Joseph  Kt Hogg  and 
Toledo,  make  regular  trips  between  Portland  and  Toledo,  call- 
ing at  all  way  points.  They  are  owned  by  Captnin  Joseph 
Kellogg  <fr  Sons  and  brother  Jason   Kellogg,  who  have  navi- 


THE  ASCENT  OF   THE  COWLITZ. 


255 


id 
)f 


n 


gated  tlio  waters  of  Oregon  and  Washington  since  1848,  and 
whose  popularity  is  as  great  as  their  experience. 

The  Toledo,  under  command  of  Captain  Smith,  started 
from  Portland  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

The  rivers  of  Oregon  and  Washington  were  all  "  boom- 
ing." The  Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  draining  a  water- 
shed area  of  over  275,000  square  miles,  were  overflowing 
with  the  waters  of  a  thousand  streams,  gathering  the  melting 
snows  from  the  loftiest  summits  of  the  Coast,  Cascade,  Blue 
and  Rocky  Mountains — from  California  to  the  British  Posses- 
sions, and  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  Montana. 

The  Willamette,  swelled  by  its  own  tributaries,  and 
backed  up  by  the  Columbia,  was  flooding  the  front  streets  of 
Portland,  twenty-fi^ve  feet  and  seven-tenths  above  low  water 
mark,  and  within  two  feet  six  inches  of  the  highest  point 
ever  reached    June  24th,  1876 — and  was  still  rising. 

The  Kellogg  steamers  are  exceedingly  accommodating. 
They  stop  whenever  and  wherever  anybody  desires  to  get 
on  or  off.  First  a  lady  was  lifted  aboard  from  a  little  skiff 
which  came  out  into  the  middle  of  the  stream  to  intercept 
us;  a  little  further  on,  a  man,  horse  and  dogs  were  taken 
from  the  left  bank;  then  two  yoke  of  oxen  were  landed 
near  a  farm  house  on  tl^e  right,  and  soon  after  we  ran  right 
into  an  orchard,  and  picked  fine  cherries  from  the  limbs 
overhanging  the  upper  deck  of  the  steamer. 

The  pleasant  village  of  St.  Heiooa,  33  miles  from  Port- 
land, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Coium  jia,  was  the  first  settle- 
ment reached. 

The  front  street  was  flooded,  bat  most  of  the  town  lay 
high  and  dry. 

Next,  Columbia  City,  two  miles  below,  whi(!li  was  partly 
under  water;  then  Kalaiua,  or  "Calamity,"  as  a  fellow- 
passenger  suggested,  which  was  in  a  pitiable  condition,  be- 
ing almost  wholly  submerged.  A  sail-boat  was  coursing 
through  the  streets,  skiffs  were  tied  up  at  tho  porch  of  the 
Fulton  House;  the  salmon  cannery  was  drowned  out,  ami  all 
business  suspended. 

Touciiing  a  moment  at  Ranit-r,  45  miles  fron;  Portland,  we 
entered  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  which  flows  into  the  Co- 


266 


WASHINOTON  TERRITORY. 


lumbia  opposite.  It  was  swelled  to  unusual  proportiooH, 
covering  the  lower  valley  from  foothill  to  foothill,  in  some 
places  three  or  four  miles  broad,  sweeping  over  the  rich 
bottoms,  destroying  the  crops,  and  doing  serious  damage  to 
some  of  the  farms. 

Monticello,  two  miles  up  on  the  left,  a  small  cluster  of 
decaying  buildings,  the  remains  of  an  old  Indiau  village,  a 
few  good  farm  houses,  bnd  extensive  hop-yards,  stood  in 
several  feet  of  water. 

FREEPORT,  a  mile  and  a  half  above,  is  the  most  im- 
portant place  on  the  river. 

The  Cowlitz  botiom  lands  are  exoeedingly  rich  and 
productive. 

The  river  narrows  above  Freeport  to  an  average  width  of 
about  150  yards.  The  banks  are  higher,  and  thickly  wooded 
with  fir,  cedar,  alder,  cottonwood  and  mapie. 

There  are  frequent  openings  and  farm  clearings.  The 
soil  is  a  fine  rich  alluvial  loam,  with  a  clayey  subsoil. 

Passing  Castle  Rook,  Carroll's  Point,  Arkansas  and 
Cheholt  Landings,  the  mouth  of  the  Tootle  Rivor,  Olequa 
and  Cowlitz  I  anding — tlie  site  of  an  old  Hudson  Buy  trad- 
ing station — a  jout  6  o'clock  we  arrived  at 

TOLEDO.  This  is  the  historic  ground  of  Washington 
Territory — the  field  of  the  first  operations  io  trade,  agricul- 
ture and  navigation . 

The  Cowlitz  River  has  been  the  principal  thorough- 
fare of  travel  U)  and  from  Puget  Sound  from  the  earliest 
times;  but  above  Freeport,  until  the  running  of  the  Kel- 
logg steamoi  Toledo,  by  Capt  Smith,  the  entire  river  traf- 
fic, the  carrying  of  mail  and  passengers,  the  trrtn8i)ortation 
of  supplies  and  shipment  of  furs,  etc..  was  done  exclusively 
by  Indian  canoes  and  batteaux. 

A  walk  of  about  two  miles  brought  me  to  Cowlitz  Prairie, 
one  of  the  i)loasautest,  m«.«et  homelike  spots  1  have  visited 
in  the  Territory.  It  is  about  five  miles  long  and  from  onv 
to  two  miles  wid:?.  enclosed  bv  ,i  forest  of  fir.  This  valley 
was  occupied  and  farmed  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  over 
40  years  ago,     Sunju  of  its  old  servants  are  still  living  there. 


COWLITZ  PRAIRIE. 


257 


I  was  fortunate  in  meeting  several  of  these  pioneer  set  'ers— 
first,  Mr.  H.  H.  Pinto,  72  years  of  age,  a  native  of  New 
Hiiven,  Connecticut,  a  sailor  on  40  voyages,  20  years  a  res- 
ident of  New  Orleans,  coming  here  30  years  ago — himself 
and  wife  traveling  most  of  the  way  across  the  plains  and  over 
the  moinitains  on  foot.  He  said  that  during  15  years'  trade 
with  the  Indians,  though  selling  considerable  on  credit,  his 
losses  in  bad  debts  did  not  exceed  $30.  The  spirit  of  this 
aged  couple  may  be  inferred  from  a  remark  by  Mrs.  Pinto : 
"  I  wish,"  she  said,  "I  was  only  a  few  y^'i.rs  younger,  and  I 
wjuld  go  to  Alaska!"  "Yes,  my  wife's  got  the  gold  fever," 
replied  her  husband.  Then  he  proceeded  to  tell  me  of  the 
recent  discoveries  of  rich  mines  on  the  upper  Cowlitz,  with 
all  the  enthusiasm  of  a  youth  of  20  years. 

The  place  opposite  Mr.  Pinto's  has  been  farmed  for  the 
past  40  years  by  Mr.  Plomondon,  a  servant  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  who  died  here  last  year,  at  the  advanced  age 
of  9i}  years  9  months  and  6  days. 

There  is  room  on  the  Klickitat  and  Grand  Prairie,  and 
other  lightly-wooded  vine-maple  lands  lying  within  30  miles, 
for  at  least  1000  families.  The  climate  is  very  healthy,  water 
excellent,  and  crops  certain  and  abundant. 

Eeturning  to  Toledo,  the  steamer  proceeded  on  her  tor- 
tuous course.  While  the  first  ascent  of  the  upper  Cowlitz 
was  not  quite  so  important  an  event  as  the  discovery  and 
exploration  of  the  Mississippi,  yet  it  was  sufficiently  so  to 
excite  great  interest  in  the  undertaking  among  all  the  settlers 
liereaboutH.  Adequate  and  cheap  facilities  of  transportation 
is  the  first,  great  necessity  for  the  prosperous  occupation  of 
H  country.  In  winter  the  roads  of  Western  Washington  are 
generally  too  soft  for  the  profitable  movement  of  field  pro- 
duce, except  for  short  distances,  and  there  is  not  much  en- 
couragement for  opening  a  farm  and  raising  big  crops,  to 
see  the  fruits  of  all  your  hard  labor  rot  upon  the  ground 
where  it  is  harvested. 

Wo  were  soon  joined  in  the  wheel-house  by  an  old  Indian 
known  as  George,  one  of  the  few  survivors  of  the  once  nu- 
merous Cowlitz  tribe.  He  must  have  been  over  65  years  of  age, 
but  was  as  enthusiastic  as  a  child,  pointiug  out  with  glis- 


,'  1 


II 


[i 


Ir 


268 


WA8HIN0T0N    TERRITORY. 


tening  eyes  and  rapid  artioulation  and  gesture,  the  site  of  a 
onoe  populous  village  of  his  people,  and  landmarks  familiar 
to  him  for  half  a  century.  It  was  most  fitting  that  one  of 
the  oldest  survivors  of  the  canoe  period  of  the  navigation  ef 
the  Co\/litz,  should  be  present  to  witness  its  first  ascent  by 
steam. 

The  river  still  maintains  an  average  width  of  200  yards, 
a  dense  forest  of  fir,  cedar,  spruce,  Cottonwood,  alder  and 
maple,  extending  to  the  water's  edge,  excepting  when  an 
occasional  settler  has  cut  his  way  in.  The  banks  are  from 
five  to  tweuty-five  feet  in  height,  their  exposed  faces  exhib- 
iting a  sundy  alluvial  loam,  underlaid  with  clay  and  sand- 
stone. Ill  some  places,  croppings  of  coal  were  seen  in  the 
lower  utratas,  where  the  river  out  through  the  hills.  A  short 
distance  above  Layton's  Landing,  the  river  divides  into  four 
or  five  streams,  but  Capt.  Smith  took  us  through  the  best 
channel,  some  40  feet  wide,  without  any  apparent  difficulty. 
Now  there  are  rapids,  with  a  current  of  ten  miles  an  hour, 
great  piles  of  drift  logs,  carried  down  from  the  mountains 
b^  the  winter  floods,  sometimes  projecting  their  great  lengths 
half  way  across  the  channel,  and  sandbars  and  rocks,  but  no 
serious  obstructions. 

By  the  gauge  at  Toledo,  the  river  was  three  feet  nine 
inches  above  low-water  mark,  and  our  soundings  showed 
about  four  feet  in  the  shallowest  spot  found  thus  far.  Be- 
ginning at  Layton's,  our  progress  was  the  occasion  of  great 
rejoicing  among  all  the  people  living  upon  and  near  the  banks. 
Men,  women  and  children  came  rushing  out  to  see  us,  cheer- 
ing lustily,  and  swinging  their  hats,  bonnets  and  handker- 
chiefs, as  i/hough  our  appearance  was  the  greatest  boon  of 
their  lives.  Taylor  and  Bill  Parker  made  the  woods  ring 
with  their  shouts;  and  when  old  Hinckley— standing  waiting 
for  us  at  the  base  of  Hinckley's  Bluflf — broke  out  into  a 
thundering  roar:  "  'Rah  for  Garfield !"  and  the  steam  whis- 
tles chimed  in,  the  old  forests  of  the  Cowlitz,  I  ver  ture  to 
say,  never  echoed  a  war-whoop  half  so  loud  and  thrilling. 
Scott  on  the  left  bank,  and  Hackett  on  the  right,  soon 
joined  the  chorus  of  shouts,  which  reached  a  climax  when 
Pioneer  Bennett  ran  out  of  his  cabin,  with  rifle  in  hand,  and 


THE   FIH8T  ASCENT  OF   TUE    UPPER   COWLITZ.        259 


fired  round  after  round;  while  tiis  wife  enthusiastically  waved 
the  stars  and  stripes  over  his  head. 

The  boat  landed  amidst  the  loud  noise  of  guns,  ch«ering 
an<l  steam  whistles;  and  when  steward  Parsley  broke  open 
his  Fourth  of  July  stores  and  let  loose  his  fireworks,  the 
scene  will  always  be  lemembered  as  one  of  the  happiest 
demonstrations  of  loyalty  to  country,  >ind  gratitude  for  ap- 
proaching deliverance  from  the  severest  hardships  of  pioneer- 
ing, I  ever  witnessed .  Comparatively  few  people  ever  stop 
to  consider  how  much  we  owe  to  those  who  so  bravely  go 
before  and  prepare  the  way  for  the  march  of  civilization. 
Mr.  Bennett  and  his  two  daughters  packed  in  their  last  toiii' 
tera  supplies  upon  their  backs,  including  900  pounds  o/Jlour. 

These  people  are  making  the  most  of  the  situation, 
many  of  whom  are  surrounded  by  fields  of  grain,  young 
orchards,  excellent  pastures  and  gardens.  The  fine  pota- 
toes, beets,  peas,  onions,  beans,  etc.,  grown  by  Mr.  Hack- 
ett,  were  especially  noticeable. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Bennett's,  the  river  broadened 
and  shallowed  to  less  than  four  feet,  and  Capt.  Smith  called 
everybody  forward  to  keep  the  bow  of  the  boat  down. 
Judge  Strong  is  a  raan  of  great  proportions,  outweighing 
physically  as  well  as  mentally,  a  v/hole  squad  of  ordinary 
men.  Just  as  the  boat  reached  the  most  critical  point,  the 
v^innei'-bell  rang,  and  the  Judge,  whose  giant  form  towered 
alongside  the  jackstaff,  looked  up  with  such  an  appealing 
look  toward  the  wheel  house,  thtit  Capt.  Smith  at  once  ex- 
claimed: "Not  yet  -hold  on,  hold  on!"  and  the  distin- 
guished jurist  was  detained  in  one  of  the  most  important  of 
the  many  honorable  positions  he  has  occupied — until  we 
were  safely  over  the  bar.  His  self-sacrifice  on  that  occasion 
could  only  be  appreciated  by  the  patrons  of  steward  Pars- 
ley's excellent  dinners. 

The  river,  its  banks  and  the  bordering  forest,  grew  more 
and  more  interesting  as  we  advanced.  The  rapids  were  more 
frequent  and  stronger,  in  several  places  boiling  over  rocky 
beds  at  the  rate  of  12  miles  an  hour;  limestone  bluffs  arose 
perpendicularly  from  60  to  175  feet  above  the  water;  and 
giant  firs  and  cedars  stretched  their  handsome  green  tops 


I 


Ifil! 


260 


WASHINGTON   lERRITORY. 


300  feet  above  U8.  By  common  consent,  nameu  were  given 
to  a  few  of  these  prominent  landmarks.  Hinckley's  Bluff 
has  already  been  mentioned,  the  next  highest  on  the  left 
bank  was  called  Sandrock  Bluff;  a  moss-covered  projecting 
ledge  of  basaltic  formation,  just  below,  will  probably  be 
known  as  Moss  Hock;  then  comes  Berry's  Bluff,  on  the 
right;  and  lastly,  "High  Bluff" — rising  highest,  and  ex- 
tending farthest  of  all,  also  on  the  right  bank.  Opposite 
Berry's  Bluff,  there  is  ono  of  the  finest  bodies  of  fir  and 
cedar  timber  in  Western  Waslungton.  Many  of  the  latter 
trees  are  from  10  to  13  feet  in  diameter,  and  proportionately 
tall.  It  comprises  some  six  or  seven  sections  of  Government 
land,  all  still  vacant. 

Up  to  10:40  P.M.  the  progress  of  the  Toledo  was  unin- 
terrupted, except  by  taking  aboard  the  settlers  who  wished 
to  go  with  us;  and  we  had  reached  a  point  within  a  few  miles 
from  Klickitat  bridge,  where  the  rapids  are  reported  impas- 
sable. Hero  an  extensive  log-jam  chokes  up  a  former  chan- 
nel, and  obstructs  the  present  just  where  the  current  is 
strongest,  not  less  than  12  miles  an  hour,  and  where  a  sand- 
bar crowds  the  navigation  close  upon  the  side  of  danger. 
The  ugly  jam  and  the  strong  rapids  and  the  sand-bar, 
altogether,  were  a  little  too  much  for  even  the  skill  of 
Captain  Smith,  and  in  spite  of  every  effort,  the  To- 
ledo went  crashing  and  sweeping  down  broadside  against 
the  jam.  A  great  heartless  monster  of  the  forest,  projecting 
over  the  deck,  crushed  in  the  sides  of  the  house;  another 
rakes  down  the  guards  on  the  port  side,  and  wedged  the  boat 
so  firmly  that  both  the  engines  and  the  capstan,  with  strong 
hawsers  made  fast  to  the  shore,  were  powerless  to  move  it. 
But  the  officers  and  crew  were  equal  to  every  emergency- 
Powerful  and  experienced  ax-men  cut  in  two,  one  after  an- 
other, the  great  logs,  until  the  boat  was  nearly  liberated, 
when  the' order,  "Go  ahead,"  is  heard,  and  under  full 
steam,  by  the  aid  of  bowlines,  windless  and  levers,  at  12:25 
P.M.,  we  slowly  ptill  away  from  the  "Toledo  Jam"  into  plain 
sailing. 

A  run  of  an  hour  and  a  half — past  the  mouth  of  Mill 
Creek,  against  a  10  or  12  mile  current — brought  us  to  Parker's 


AT    THE   HEAP    OF    NAVIQATlON. 


'iCl 


Landing,  on  the  right  bank,  about  two  miles  below  Klickitat 
bridge,  and  some  20  miles  above  Toledo. 

The  timber  here  is  exceptionally  tine,  and  the  soil 
very  rich. 

At  3  P.M.  the  Toledo  was  again  slowly  advancing.  Soon 
the  river  narrows  to  30  or  40  yards,  and  grows  more  and 
more  rapid,  rushing  between  great  rocks  wliicli  stand  out 
threateningly  in  the  channel,  as  if  warning  us  to  come  no 
farther. 

Captain  Smith  said  he  could  have  taken  us  through,  but 
everybody  appeared  well  satisfied  to  see  tlieboat  turning  back 
and  heading  for  Toledo. 

The  supply  of  wood  was  getting  short,  the  time  set  apart 
for  the  expedition  far  spent,  and  besides  the  (Japtain  didn't 
propose  to  take  any  further  risks  with  such  fishermen  as 
Judge  Strong,  lawyer  Catlin  and  their  friend  Scoggin — 
who,  if  given  half  a  chance,  might  sink  his  boat  with  moun- 
tain trout,  just  for  the  sport  of  it!  It  was  reported  that  they 
hail  already  caught  one  fish  between  the  three,  since  morn- 
ing, which  shows  the  wisdom  of  the  Captain's  course. 

The  way  we  went  down  the  Cowlitz  was  a  caution  to  un- 
skilled navigators,  in  some  places  not  less  than  20  miles  an 
hour,  but  touching  bottom  only  once,  when,  in  turning  a 
short  bend,  the  stern  of  the  boat  swung  on  to  a  sand-bar. 

At  Bennett's  the  ladies  presented  Captains  Smith  and 
Kellogg  with  a  beautiful  bouquet,  and  all  along  the  way  the 
settlers  most  enthusiastically  siiouted  and  waived  their  con- 
gratulations. 

The  ascent  was  highly  satisfactory  to  all  concerned.  The 
navigation  of  the  Cowlitz,  from  Toledo  to  Parker's  Landing, 
presents  less  difticulties  than  have  already  been  overcome 
by  the  Kelloggs  in  reaching  that  point. 

The  shallowest  water  found  was  nearly  four  feet,  and  the 
river  is  quite  free  from  snags  and  other  obstructions,  which 
can  be  removed  with  comparatively  small  outlay. 

Captain  Orin  Kellogg  informed  me  that  they  will  now 
make  trips  to  the  highest  point  reached  whenever  the 
patronage  warrants  it,  and  the  stage  of  the  water  permits. 

Judging  from  my  own  observations  and  interviews  with 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


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parties  who  are  familiar  with  the  country,  there  is  room  on 
the  upper  Cowlitz  for  at  least  a  thousand  families  to  make 
comfortable  homes.  It  is  true  they  will  have  to  be  cut  and 
dug  out  of  the  forests,  but  the  excellence  and  certainty  of 
the  crops  and  healthf  ulness  of  the  climate  are  considerations 
which  will  insure  its  rapid  settlement. 

THE  COAST   OF   WASHINGTON. 

Trip  No.  6. — Through  the  Shoalioater  Bay,  Gray\i  Harbor 
ayxd  Chehalis  Country — Its  Dairy,  Limibering,  Mining 
and  Fiahing  Industries.  Among  the  Seaside  Resort h  of 
Washington — llivaco.  Sea-view,  Oystei'ville  and  Peterson's 
Point — and  Three  Da^ys  with  the  Sea  Otter  Hioders  of 
the  North  Pacific  Coast.     Round  Trip,  600  Miles. 

My  readers  have  already  become  familiar  with  the  prin- 
cipal places  and  points  of  interest  from  Portland  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

Arriving  at  Astoria,  I  took  the  Gen.  Canby,  Captain 
Parker,  which,  as  previously  stated,  makes  regular  daily 
trips  to  Ilwaco,  via  Forts  Stevens  and  Canby,  connecting 
with  the  Shoalwater  Bay  transportation  steamers  and  Loomis' 
stage  line  through  to  Puget  Sound,  and  in  about  two  hours 
reached 

ILWACO,  now  so  rapidly  growing  in  favor  as  a  sea-side 
resort. 

It  is  charmingly  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Baker's 
Bay,  with  a  fine  southern  exposure,  almost  perfectly  shel- 
tered from  all  harsh  and  disagreeable  winds  by  thick  forests 
of  spruce,  with  an  excellent  reputation  for  healthfuluess  and 
remarkable  evenness  of  temperature. 

Though  the  annual  deposit  of  moisture  exceeds  65  inches, 
the  rainfall  during  the  mcaths  of  July,  August  and  Septem- 
ber, comprising  the  season  of  its  occupation  as  a  summer 
resort,  seldom  interferes  with  its  thorough  enjoyment  as 
such. 

Already  the  campers  were  arriving,  and  they  could  scarcely 
find  a  more  desirable  place  to  pitch  their  tents. 

The  soil  is  a  light  sandy  loam,  quickly  absorbing  moist- 


m'sm 


SEA- VIEW. 


268 


I    : 


ure,  never  muddy,  and  covered  with  groves  of  spruce,  just 
dense  enough  to  afford  agreeable  and  healthful  shade. 

There  are  many  places  of  interest  within  easy  walking 
distance — the  U.  8.  garrison  of  Fort  Canby,  occupying  a 
delightful  situation  in  a  sheltered  cove,  two  miles  eastward. 
Just  beyond,  upon  the  summit  of  a  rocky  promontory,  the 
fort,  its  guns  commanding  the  entrance  to  the  magnificent 
Columbia,  and  a  little  further  on  the  Cape  Hancock  Light- 
house, from  which  point,  if  the  day  be  clear,  the  visitor  will 
obtain  an  ocean  and  inland  view  of  exceeding  gi'andeur. 

A  good  road  leads  through  a  forest  of  spruce  to  Sea- 
view,  two  miles,  and  from  thence  along  a  splendid  beach  for 
18  miles  to  Oysterville,  on  Shoalwater  Bay,  and  another 
seven  miles  to  its  southern  shore. 

Mr.  James  D.  Holman  (deceased),  was  the  pioneer  of 
Ilwaco,  having  settled  there  in  1850,  but  was  almost  its  sole 
occupant  for  many  years. 

The  Holman  Tract,  laid  out  into  50x100  foot  lots  and 
five-acre  blocks  and  plats,  embraces  nearly  a  thousand  acres 
of  the  choicest  portions  of  the  town-site,  fronting  with  a 
splendid  beach,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  on  Baker's  Bay, 
and  one-quarter  of  a  mile  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  affording 
most  admirable  building  sites  and  excellent  locations "  for 
salmon  fisheries  and  canneries. 

The  property  includes  the  magnificent  Butte  Tract, 
near  Sea-view,  and  also  the  spring  of  splendid  water 
near  by. 

It  is  now  quite  a  little  village  of  hotels,  boarding-houses 
and  residences,  comprising  two  hotels —the  Bay -view  House, 
by  Captain  Williams,  and  the  Ilwaco  Hotel,  Mr.  J.  H.  How- 
erton,  proprietor,  two  general  stores,  Davis  &  Brown  and 
W.  W.  Ward,  also  Postmastei . 

The  main  support  of  the  people  is  derived  from  salmon 
fishing. 

There  is  daily  communication  between  Ilwaco  and  Asto- 
ria, tri-weekly  with  Portland,  and  also  to  points  on  Shoal- 
water Bay  and  Gray's  Harbor. 

I  next  proceeded  to 

SEA-VIEW,  which  has  not  inappropriately  been  called 
the  Long  Branch  of  the  North  Pacific  Coast. 


1- 


264 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


So  far  as  its  beach  is  concerned,  which  extends  from  Cnpe 
Hancock,  for  over  25  miles,  an  unbroken  stretch  of  very 
gradually  receding  shore,  entirely  free  from  rocks,  and  with- 
out inlet  or  other  obstructions,  it  surpasses  the  great  ocean 
attraction  of  that  famous  watering-place. 

That  portion  of  it  embraced  within  the  limits  of  the  town 
of  8ea-view,  as  laid  out  by  Mr.  J.  L.  Stout,  the  proprietor, 
contains  30  acres,  comprising  21  blocks,  and  168  lots,  50x 
100  feet,  many  of  which  have  already  been  sold  to  prominent 
citizens  of  Portland  and  Astoria. 

Some  eight  or  ten  cottages  were  being  erected  and  others 
contemplated  building  soon. 

These  desirable  sea-side  lots  are  still  offered  for  the  small 
consideration  of  from  $50  to  $100  each. 

The  Sea-View  House,  the  principal  hotel  on  this  part 
of  the  coast,  is  new,  and  affords  good  accommodations  for 
about  60  guests. 

The  table  is  constantly  supplied  with  excellent  butter, 
fresh  milk,  eggs  and  vegetables  from  the  proprietor's  own 
dairy  farm  of  over  400  acres  of  the  richest  beaver-dam 
lands. 

Two  miles  beyond  Sea- View  is  LongT'each.  This  is  about 
five  miles  from  the  Cape,  and  the  beginning  of  the  Shoal- 
water  Bay  peninsula  —  a  narrow  strip  of  beach,  upland, 
meadow  and  tide  land,  varying  from  one  to  two  miles  in 
width,  with  an  average  elevation  of  about  12  feet  above  high 
water,  and  3xtending  20  miles  north  to  the  entrance  of  the 
bay.  Six  men  own  and  occupy  the  first  10  miles — Mr. 
Tinker,  320  acres;  John  Briscoe  and  Gapt.  Eastabrook,  pio- 
neers of  1853 — the  former  1100,  and  the  latter  800.  Mr. 
Briscoe  is  also  the  owner  of  a  fine  300-acre  tract  near  Cape 
Disappointment,  containing  splendid  building  sites  for  sea- 
side cottages  and  villas,  for  which  it  is  now  offered.  Next 
L,  A.  Loomis  and  E.  G.  Loomis  own  over  1000  acres,  hav- 
ing a  frontage  of  three  miles  to  the  ocean,  and  embracing 
one  of  the  choicest  portions  of  the  peninsula.  Their  resi- 
dence and  farm  buildings  occupy  a  very  pleasant  divide, 
gently  sloping  both  ocean  and  bay-ward,  and  covered  with  a 
fine  growth  of  Scotch  pine.    These  lands  are  devoted  chiefly 


OYSTERVILLE. 


266 


to  dairying  and  stock-raising,  for  which  they  are  well  adapted. 
The  butter  made  here  is  of  excellent  quality,  the  cows  graz- 
ing throughout  the  year,  being  seldom  fed,  except  for  a 
short  period  during  an  occasional  severe  winter.  Mr,  E.  G. 
Loomis — the  oldest  settler  now  residing  in  Pacific  county, 
having  located  at  Ilvvaco  32  years  ago— informed  me  that 
their  wool-clip  averaged  4  J  lbs.  to  the  fleece,  and  that  12  lbs. 
had  been  taken  from  one  sheep.  Though  the  soil  is  sandy 
and  light,  it  produces  good  crops  of  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables,  oats  and  hay. 

Ten  miles  travel  from  Loomis' — eight  along  the  splendid 
beach,  and  two  miles  through  burnt  spruce  bottoms — 
brought  me  to 

OYSTERVILLE,  the  principal  town  and  county  seat  of 
Pacific  county.  Settled  in  1852,  '3  and  '4,  by  Frank  Garrison, 
Clark,  Capt.  Eantabrook,  Espey,  Stephens,  Richard  Car- 
ruthers  and  others,  for  a  number  of  years,  and  down  to  1874, 
during  the  height  of  activity  iu  the  oyster  trade,  it  was  one 
of  the  most  important  places  in  the  Territory'.  Over  50,000 
baskets  of  oysters  were  shipped  annually  to  the  San  Fran- 
cisco market.  In  1875  the  oysters  became  diseased  and 
poor,  and  the  industry  declined  rapidly,  and  without  other 
developed  resources,  the  place  languished.  But  it  is  now  en- 
tering upon  a  new  era  of  prosperity.  The  oysters  have  recov- 
ered their  health  and  are  on  the  increase,  some  200  baskets 
a  month  being  now  exported  to  Portland  and  San  Francisco; 
saw-mills  of  large  capacity  are  being  erected  on  the  shores 
of  the  bay  within  sight;  new  settlers  are  coming  in,  and  its 
many  advantages  as  a  summer  watering-place  are  yearly  at- 
tracting an  increased  number  of  visitors  from  the  interit  . 

The  situation  is  pleasant  and  very  healthful,  temperature 
cool  and  equable,  water  good,  and  people  hospitable. 

It  comprises  some  50  buildings,  including  a  church, 
school-honse,  Carruthers'  hotel,  the  Pacific  House,  store  and 
post-oftice  by  D.  A.  Rodney,  and  store  by  Mr.  I.  S.  Jones. 
Mr.  Carruthers  informed  me  that  there  are  extensive  cranberry 
marshes  along  the  shores  of  the  southern  arm  of  the  bay, 
which  were  formerly  veiy  productive. 


; 


i . 


266 


WASEINOTON  TERIUTORT. 


Here,  after  a  good  diunei  at  the  Pacific  House,  I  took 
passage  on  the  steamer  Gen.  Garfieid,  Capt.  John  Brown,  for 
Woodward's  Landing,  the  present  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Willopah  River,  the  principal  stream  flowing  into 

SHOALWATER  BAY.— This  body  of  water,  most  appro- 
priately named,  embraces  at  high  tide  a  surface  area  estimated 
at  80  square  miles,  about  one-half  of  which  is  laid  bare  at 
low  tide.  The  entrance  is  five  and  a  half  miles  wide  from 
Leadbetter  Point  on  the  south,  to  Lewis  or  Toke  Point  on 
the  north.  There  are  two  channels,  the  North  and  South, 
with  a  large  shoal  called  the  Middle  Sands,  lying  between 
them.  The  bar  at  the  North  Channel  is  about  a  mile  in  ex- 
tent, and  lias  three  and  a  quarter  fathoms  of  water.  At  the 
South  Channel  the  bar  is  a  mile  in  width,  with  four  fathoms 
of  water  upon  it.  Good  channels  are  found  throughout  the 
bay,  but  pilots  are  necessary  to  follow  them.  An  arm 
stretches  southward  for  14  or  15  miles  toward  Baker's  Bay, 
v,'ith  an  average  width  of  about  three  and  a  half  miles. 

There  are  three  islands  in  the  bay,  known  as  Long,  Pine 
and  Round  Islands — the  former  the  largest,  being  some  six 
miles  long  and  one  and  a  half  miles  wide.  The  shoals  are 
covered  with  shell-fish,  and  salmon,  codfish,  halibut,  sturgeon 
and  herring  abound.  It  is  a  great  resort  for  wild  geese, 
swan,  mallard  and  canvas-back  duck,  and  other  water-fowl. 
The  Willopah,  Pulux,  Nesal,  Necomanche  and  North  Rivers, 
are  the  most  important  streams  flowing  into  it.  There  is  a 
considerable  quantity  of  unoccupied  Government  lands, 
adapted  to  dairying  and  farming,  lying  along  the  latter,  now 
attracting  settlers. 

It  was  low  tide  when  we  started  from  Oysterville,  laying 
bare  thousands  of  acres  of  flats  opposite,  the  long  half-mile 
wharf  only  reaching  about  halfway  to  where  the  little  16-ton 
steamer  lay  waiting  to  receive  us.  The  accommodating 
driver  of  the  Ilwaco  stage  jDressed  his  team  into  the  bay  al- 
most belly  deep,  until  met  by  a  small  boat  called  a  dingey, 
into  which  we  stepped  from  the  stage,  and  were  quickly  taken 
aboard.  The  wind  was  blowing  quite  fresh  directly  ahead, 
but  the  Gen.  Garfield  plunged  fearlessly   into   the   rising 


WOODWAMD'S    LANRINO. 


267 


waves — sometimes  covering  us  with  spray — rounding  near 
tlie  bluif  white  shores  of  Goose  Point,  and  reaching  the  first 
landing,  Bay  Centre,  10  miles  from  Oysterville,  in  about  an 
hour  and  a  half.      This  village  lies  on  the  northeast  side  of 
the  point,  and  consists  of  some  15  buildings — wharf,  house, 
store,  school-house  and  residences,  with  a  light  growth  of 
spruce  and  hemlock  in  the  background.  A  half-dozen  oyster 
boats  were  anchored  near  the  shore  opposite.      A  narrow 
belt  of  rich  tide  land  borders  Patia  Creek,  which  flows  into 
the  bay  here.     A  few  Indian  huts  were  seen  near  its  mouth. 
Capt.  Brown  carries  the  U.  S.  mail,  and  we  next  headed  for 
North  Cove,  two  miles  east  of  the  Toke  Point  light-houFe. 
The  Indian  village  of  Georgetown,  containing  some  50  people 
of  the  Quinault  tribe,  is  situated  on  the  shore  two  or  three 
miles  to   the   eastward.     The   U.  8.  Government  provides 
them  with  a  school,  but  no  other  assistance.      There  is  no 
binding  at  the  Cove,  and  the  steamer  lay  out  in  deep  water 
and  sent  the  mail  ashore  in  a  small  boat.   It  was  nearly  dark 
when  we  got  under  way  again,  and  10  o'clock  before  the  Cap- 
tain announced  our  arrival  at 

South  Bend. — This  town — situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Willopah  River,  about  three  miles  from  its  month — is  at 
present  the  most  important  business  centre  of  the  Shoal- 
water  Bay  country.  Simpson  &  Co's  saw-mill,  located  here, 
maniifactures  about  12,000,000  feet  of  lumber  annually,  ship- 
ping in  their  own  vessels  to  San  Francisco.  They  employ 
40  men  at  the  mill,  and  a  much  larger  force  in  their  numer- 
ous logging  camps. 

There  are  extensive  bodies  of  excellent  fir  and  spruce 
timber  upon  the  head-waters  of  the  Willopah  and  Nesal 
Rivers,  about  10,000,000  feet  of  which  are  being  cut  annually. 
The  logs  scale  on  an  average  about  1000  feet,  and  the  loggers 
receive  $4.75  per  1000.  Boats  drawing  eight  feet  can  reach 
this  point  at  low  tide. 

Remaining  here  over  night,  in  the  morning  we  ascended 
the  river  nine  miles  further  to 

WOODWARD'S  LANDING,  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation  on  the  right  bank,  30  miles  from  Oysterville.     It 


IH 


268 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


is  quite  free  from  snags,  log  jams  or  obstructions  of  any 
kind,  there  being  four  feet  of  water  on  the  shallowest  bars 
at  low  tide.  The  current  does  not  exceed  four  miles  an 
hour  in  any  place.  The  Willopah  valley  is  over  30  miles  in 
length,  varying  from  one-half  to  one  mile  in  width.  A  con- 
siderable area  of  the  richest  tide  lands  extends  along  both 
banks  for  a  distance  of  14  miles  from  its  mouth.  These 
produce  large  crops  of  grass,  afford  excellent  pasturage,  and 
may  easily  be  reclaimed,  by  dyking,  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses. They  are  bordered  by  a  forest  of  spruce  and  hem- 
lock, which  increased  in  density  as  we  advanced,  except  where 
consumed  by  timber  fires. 

It  is  settled  all  along  the  way,  there  being  more  than  70 
families  living  upon  the  upper  Willopah  above  Woodward's 
Landing,  on  and  near  the  little  openings  known  as  "Forks," 
"Half  Moon,"  "Fern"  and  "Elk"  Prairies.  They  speak 
highly  of  the  healthfulness  of  the  climate,  though  the  women 
complain  somewhat  of  the  excessive  rainfall  in  winter,  which 
confines  them  so  much  in  doors.  These  people  are  engaged 
mainly  in  dairying  and  stock-raising.  Small  fruits  generally 
do  well,  but  apples  are  subject  to  blight  and  specking. 

Returning,  Capt.  Brown  landed  me  at  North  Cove,  Toke 
Point,  just  in  time  to  secure  passage  on  Peterson's  stage  for 
Peterson's  Point,  15  miles  north,  at  the  entrance  to  Gray's 
Harbor.  This  line  makes  regular  trips  twice  a  week  in 
connection  with  the  Ilwaco,  Shoal  water  Bay  and  Gray's  Har- 
bor steamers. 

We  started  from  the  North-Cove  House,  Mrs.  Johnson, 
situated  in  a  very  pleasant  Scotch  pin'^  opening  near  the  bay , 
and  crossing  the  point  some  two  and  a  half  miles,  most  of 
the  way  through  a  thick  growth  of  pine,  spruce  and  alder, 
followed  a  magnificent  beach  eleven  miles,  then  recrossed  to 
Mr.  Glen  Peterson's  on  the  Gray's  Harbor  side.  A  sea-side 
resort  called 

Ocean  Park  has  recently  been  laid  out  here.  This  vi- 
cinity possesses  rare  attractions  for  those  health  and  pleas- 
ure-seekers fond  of  hunting  and  fishing. 

Gold  Mining  at  Gray's  Harbor.— Peterson's  Point  con- 
tains one  of  the  largest  known  deposits  of  black  magnetic 


GRAY'S    llAlUiUlt. 


269 


gold-bearing  saud.  There  are  upwards  of  100  acres  exposed 
to  sight,  every  cubic  yard  of  which  weighs  two  tons,  assay- 
ing from  $12  to  120,  and  yielding  from  $2.25  to  $2.40  gold 
per  ton  by  sluice  tests.  The  gold  is  exceedingly  fine,  and  so 
difficult  to  save  iu  paying  quantities  by  the  means  hitherto 
employed,  that  prospectors,  after  a  brief  period  of  experi- 
menting here  some  ten  years  ago,  abandoned  the  work  for 
more  inviting  fields. 


GRAY'S  HARBOR,  discovered  by  Capt.  Gray  in  1792, 
contains  an  area  of  about  40  square  miles,  more  than  two- 
thirds  of  which  is  bare  at  low  water.  The  entrance  (some 
three  miles  in  width)  lies  between  Point  Brown  (or  Damon) 
on  the  north,  Point  Hanson,  Chehalis  (Armstrong  or  Peter- 
son) on  the  south,  the  channel  being  about  five-eighths  of  a 
milo  wide,  with  16  feet  of  water  on  the  bar.  The  Chehalis, 
Humptulups,  Hoquium  and  Johns  are  the  principal  rivers 
flowing  into  it.  The  Chehalis,  the  most  important,  drains 
an  area  of  upwards  of  two  hundred  square  miles.  Its  chief 
tributaries  are  the  Newaukum,  Skookum  Chuck,  Black,  Sat- 
sop,  Wynoche,  and  Whishka  rivers.  It  is  navigable  during 
six  months  of  the  year  to  Claquato,  for  boats  drawing  three 
feet  of  water;  and  to  Shotwell's  Ranch,  15  miles  up  the 
Black  River,  and  within  14  miles  of  Puget  Sound,  at  Olym- 
pia. 

Prior  to  May,  1882,  there  had  been  no  regular  line  of 
boats  of  any  kind  traversing  these  waters — Indian  canoes, 
bateaux,  dingeys  and  small  sail  boats  called  plungers,  hav- 
ing been  the  only  means  of  communication.  On  the  3d  of 
that  month,  Capt.  J.  P.  Whitcomb  began  to  run  the  "  Mon- 
tesano"  bi-weekly  between  Montesano  and  Peterson's  Point, 
carrying  the  U.  S.  mail,  and  touching  at  Damon's,  near 
Point  Brown,  Hoquium,  Cosmopolis,  and  other  points,  as 
desired. 

Having  completed  my  examination  of  the  immediate 
coast  as  far  north  as  intended,  I  took  passage  on  this  steamer 
for  Montesano,  en  route  through  the  Chehalis  country.  This 
ride  of  about  40  miles  by  the  channel,  affords  excellent  views 
of  the  entire  shore  of  the  harbor.     They  embrace  quite  ex- 


I 


Ml 


270 


WASHINQTON  TERJUTOllY. 


tensive  tracts  of  tide  lands  on  the  southeast  side,  and  at  the 
mouths  of  the  principal  rivers;  with  white  bluffs  of  sand- 
stone, clay  and  shells,  intervening— being  the  highest  on  the 
northern  side.  A  thick  growth  of  spruce,  hemlock  and  alder 
border  the  bottom  lands  and  the  banks  everywhere.  Six 
miles  out  on  the  right,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  John's  Eiver, 
upon  which  there  are  a  few  settlers,  and  a  line  body  of  cedar 
timber  being  logged  for  the  Cosmopolis  saw-mill.  Twelve 
miles  further  to  the  northwest  brought  us  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Hoquium.  Simpson  ife  Co.  of  San  Francisco,  were 
building  a  saw-mill  there,  with  a  daily  capacity  for  cutting 
80,000  feet,  to  supply  their  export  trade.  This  river  is 
navigable  for  light-draught  boats,  for  a  distance  of  10  miles. 
About  half  a  dozen  families  occupy  its  rich  tide  lands. 

Two  miles  above,  we  touched  at  Hume's  salmon  cannery, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wishka  River,  navigable  for 
some  eight  miles,  and  soon  after  entered  the  Chehalis.  It 
is  here  about  250  yards  wide,  with  low  banks,  and  broad 
tide  land  meadows  extending  up  for  ten  or  twelve  miles,  and 
then  succeeded  by  spruce  bottoms,  only  subject  to  overflow 
during  the  winter  freshets.  Cosmopolis  (our  first  landing 
on  the  stream,  two  and  a  half  miles  up  on  the  left  bank),  was 
formerly  the  principal  trading  point  of  this  section.  It  now 
consists  of  the  saw-mill  already  mentioned,  which  manufac- 
tures a  very  excellent  quality  of  cedar  lumber.  A  short 
distance  above,  on  the  right,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Preach- 
er's Slough — so  called  from  the  misfortune  of  an  early  mis- 
sionary, who,  supposing  it  to  be  the  main  river,  paddled  his 
canoe  up  it  all  one  night  before  discovering  his  mistake.  A 
pleasant  opening  on  the  right  bank,  about  seven  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Chehalis,  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  the 
proposed  terminus  of  the  Seattle  and  Gray's  Harbor  Rail- 
road. 

At  4  P.M.  we  reached  lower  Montesano,  a  small  village, 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  left  bank,  about  40  miles  from 
the  ocean  by  the  channels.  The  principal  part  of  the  town 
lies  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  about  one  mile  from  the 
landing.  Here  I  made  connection  with  Sutton's  stage  for 
01ym])ia.     There  are  three  different  lines  running-  one  by 


THROUifll    THE    Fol{E8'I\S    W    OLrMPIA. 


271 


Moore's  mail  route,  following  up  the  ChohaliH  unci  Bliick 
rivers  57  miles;  and  two  (Sutton's  and  Peel's)  over  tlu)  Bliick 
Hills  42  miles,  usually  by  the  Hicklin,  though  sometimes 
taking  what  is  known  as  the  "  Hard-Scvabble  Roiul,"  run- 
ning further  west  through  Mason  County.  Dense  forests  of 
fir  and  hemlock  cover  more  than  three-quarters  of  this  en- 
tire region.  There  are,  however,  numerous  prairie  oi)enings 
containing  from  250  to  3000  acres,  and  also  large  bodies  of 
river  and  creek  bottom  lands,  comparatively  lightly  timbered 
with  vine-maple,  alder  and  cottonwood.  The  soil  of  the 
prairies  is  generally  very  light  and  gravelly,  suited  only  to 
grazing;  but  the  bottoms  are  very  rich  and  quite  productive 
of  all  the  staple  crops  ex-epting  corn. 

A  ride  of  12  miles  through  the  Wynooche  and  Satsop 
prairies,  brought  us  to  Elma.  At  Mr.  Metcalf's,  near  Mon- 
tesano,  the  largest  dairy  ranch  in  this  section,  they  were 
milking  some  70  fine  cows.  In  the  fall  they  are  turned  out 
upon  the  tide-land  meadows,  where,  without  shelter  or  feed- 
ing, they  keep  fat  all  winter.  As  already  stated,  the  butter 
made  all  along  this  coast  is  of  excellent  quality. 

Seven  miles  out  we  crossed  the  Satsop  River,  one  mile 
and  a  half  from  its  mouth,  on  Smith's  ferry.  He  said  that 
salmon  run  up  that  river  by  the  thousands  in  the  fall,  and 
after  spawning  die  in  large  numbers. 

Elma  is  a  new,  clean,  handsome  little  village,  situated  in 
a  tine  oak  opening  near  the  foothills.  I  saw  no  saloon,  and 
was  glad  to  hear  that  no  liquor  is  sold  there. 

Continuing  our  journey,  early  on  Saturday  morning,  the 
village  school  teacher  and  one  of  her  pupils  rode  with  us  a 
short  distance  to  join  a  berrying  party.  They  each  carried 
ten-quart  pails,  and  picked  them  full,  as  they  afterwards  told 
me.  They  grow  in  greater  variety  and,  especially  the  black- 
berry, more  abundantly  than  I  have  ever  seen  elsewhere. 
The  large,  sweet  salmon-colored  salmon-berry  is  also  quite 
plentiful,  also  the  red  oval  thimble-berry,  both  growing 
upon  bushes  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  height.  There  were 
besides  raspberries,  gooseberries,  black  and  red  huckleber- 
ries and  salal  berries,  currants  and  Oregon  grapes. 

Crossing    Choquallam  Creek,  past  an  Indian  encamp- 


272 


WASHINGTON   TERHITOHY. 


raent,  through  small  prairie  openings,  occupied  by  stock 
and  dairy  furmors,  about  noon  we  descended  into  a  pleasant 
little  valley,  the  home  of  J.  T.  Hicklin  for  over  seventeen 
years. 

On  the  Mock  Chehalis  River  or  Creek,  which  heads  near 
his  ranch,  there  are  said  to  bo  several  sections  of  vacant 
Government  land,  suited  for  farming  and  stock  raising. 

FIVE  MILES  THROUGH  A  IJUUNINO  F011E8T. 

Before  leaving  the  coast,  great  volumes  of  smoke  were 
seen  rolling  over  the  forests  in  the  direction  of  Olympia. 
Nej'.r  Elma  a  horseman  cried  out  that  the  whole  country 
ahead  was  on  fire;  that  several  families  had  been  burned 
out;  that  the  reads  were  so  blockaded  with  fallen  timber 
that  it  would  take  weeks  to  remove  it. 

The  mail  meKsenger  passed  us,  mounted,  having  left  his 
wagon  behind  for  fear  of  detention;  and  before  reaching 
Hicklin's  the  -ash  of  falling  trees,  sounding  like  the  roar  of 
heavy  artillery  in  the  distance,  as  well  as  the  thickening 
smoke,  gave  much  ground  to  fear  that  the  worst  reports  were 
not  exaggerated. 

A  few  miles  beyond,  re-inforced  by  the  Road  Overseer, 
a  broad-shouldered,  brawny  man,  armed  with  saws  and  axes, 
we  found  ourselves  face  to  face  with,  and  inhaling  the  hot 
breath  of  the  raging,  devouring  element. 

It  is  impossible  for  those  who  have  never  seen  the  for- 
ests of  Western  Washington,  to  imagine  the  grandeur  and 
desolation  of  the  spectacle  they  present  when  these  great 
fires  are  sweeping  through  them.  Magnify  the  fiercest 
prairie  fire  a  hundred  times;  add  the  thundering  roar  of 
the  rapid  downfall  of  monster  firs,  big  and  long  enough  for 
an  eifectual  breastwork  for  300  men;  pile  these  black,  burn- 
ing giants  one  above  another,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in 
height,  over  hundreds  and  thousands  of  acres;  lot  great 
burning  limbs  descend,  whizzing  and  glaring  like  meteors 
shot  from  the  heavens;  hear  the  crackling  of  the  advancing 
flames  through  the  undergrowth  sounding  as  the  musketry  of 
an  advancing  army;  then  envelop  the  whole  scene  with  an 
atmosphere  glaring  with  heat,  stifling  with  smoke  and  fidlof 


A    FOR  EST    FlUK. 


273 


cinders,  imd  lighting  up  the  heavens  at  night  for  miles 
around,  driving  all  animals  and  birds  before  it  in  groat 
alarm ;  witness  the  consternation  of  the  threatened  and  re- 
treating inhabitants,  and  the  picture  is  still  incomplete. 

Fortunately,  the  tiro  had  crossed  our  road  a  few  liours 
previous,  and  though  burning  fiercely  on  all  sides,  and  the 
air  hot  and  choking,  wo  wc  "  iblo  to  penetrate  the  lines  and 
soon  reach  the  first  obstruction-*.  I  doubt  if  over  two  nun 
did  better  execution  with  s;t\\  and  axes  than  Sutton  and  his 
able  assistant  in  our  fom  ijourf-'  battle  f  a  passage  around, 
over  and  under  them. 

Aher  we  had  flanked  8PVi>»'al  monster  trees  which  lay 
acToss  the  road  higher  thi.u  bi eastworks,  and  had  sawed  and 
cut  in  two  a  score  of  lesser  size,  and  driven  under 
half  as  many  more,  wfi  came  to  a  burnt  bridge,  entirely 
gone,  and  the  pros)iect  of  getting  tiiror^l:  that  day, 
after  all  our  hard  labor,  appeared  dismal  enough.  But, 
on  looking  up  the  creek,  we  discovered  within  sight  an  old 
decayed  bridge,  which,  after  strengthening  with  props,  bore 
us  safely  over,  to  our  great  delight. 

Night  was  approaching,  and,  by  request,  I  went  on 
ahead  to  examine  and  repori  upon  the  character  and  extent 
of  the  difficulties  which  still  lay  before  us.  We  were  very 
glad  to  find  that  half  an  hour's  more  work  cutting  around 
the  trunk  of  a  huge  fir  would  release  us  from  the  last  ob- 
struction. 

Washing  in  a  clear,  cool  stream  a  short  distance  beyond, 
we  rode  rapidly  on,  reaching  Olympia  at  10  P.M.,  some  five 
liours  late. 

I  returned  with  Win.  Moore,  who  carries  the  mail  from 
Olympia  to  Montesauo,  via  the  Black  lliver  and  Chehalis 
Valley,  passing  through  the  most  extensive  prairie  open- 
ings in  Westfcin  Washington — Bush's,  Mima,  Can  by,  Konnd- 
tree  and  Ford's — gnvveily  and  poor,  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  fern,  surrounded  with  forests  of  tir,  cedar  and 
hemlock,  and  bordered  along  the  rivers  with  rich  clay  and 
beaver-dam  bottoms. 

I  saw  several  fields  of  fine-looking  wheat  of  the  club  va- 
riety, large  growths  of  timothy,  red-top  and  meadow  grasses. 


274 


WASni.WTON  TERRITORY. 


i 


There  are  extensive  tracts  of  fir  and  cedar  timber  lying  along 
the  water-courses,  the  choicest  of  which  is  owned  by  the 
great  lumber  and  saw  mill  companies. 

At  the  crossing  of  the  Black  River,  one  of  the  passengers 
told  me  he  helped  build  the  "  Carrie  Davis,"  which  some  12 
yeurs  ago  made  one  trip  as  far  as  Shotwell's,  the  first  and 
only  steamboat  navigation  of  that  stream.  This  man  is  one  of 
those  interesting  specimens  found  only  among  those  who  for 
the  last  30  or  40  years  have  lived  on  the  extreme  frontiers  of 
the  country. 

"I  have  been  on  a  drunk  for  a  month,"  he  said,  "and 
am  now  tapering  off  with  brandy  punch,"  and  taking  out  a 
quart  bottle  from  his  side-pocket,  poured  down  about  half 
of  its  contents,  the  balance  of  which  soon  followed.  He 
had  never  seen  any  of  the  modern  inventions  of  mowing, 
reaping  or  threshing  machines.  On  one  of  the  large  ranches 
we  overtook  a  farmer  driving  home  on  the  road  ahead  of  us 
a  new  mower. 

"  What  in  h-11  is  that?"  he  exclaimed,  with  an  earnest- 
ness which  left  no  doubt  of  his  sincerity,  and  \ve  explained 
to  the  astonished  discoverer  its  use  and  operation. 

Further  on  a  Methodist  circuit-rider  jogged  past  on 
horseback,  and  with  a  most  comical  expression,  our  taper- 
iug-off  companion  remarked  ;  "There  goes  a  gospel- 
grinder!"  Soon  after  the  abundance  of  the  salmon-berries 
attracted  our  attention.  "I  once  picked  salmon -berries 
with  a  bear,"  said  the  brandy  punch  man.  "A  black 
bear?"  "Yes!"  and  he  laughed  right  heartily.  "I'll  tell 
you  how  it  was :  In  1857  a  party  of  us  went  out  berr_y  lag  one 
Sunday,  about  two  miles  from  Olympia.  I  was  intently  en- 
gaged in  picking  from  a  bush  which  hung  very  full,  when  I 
heard  a  noise  on  the  opposite  side.  Looking  up,  expecting 
to  see  one  of  our  party,  a  huge  black  bear  stood  staring  me 
right  in  the  face!  He  was  so  near  I  coxildhave  put  my  hand 
on  his  head.  But  I  didn't  stop  to  pet  him !  No !  I  let  him  go, 
and  was  mighty  glad  to  get  away  myself! " 

At  Smith's  ford  of  the  Chehalis,  an  Indian  derrick  for 
spearing  salmon  stood  in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  It  con- 
sisted of  a  tripod  of  poles  strongly  fastened  at  the  top,  sup- 


SEA-OTTER   HUNTING. 


275 


porting  a  platform  covered  with  boughs,  raised  about  two 
feet  above  the  water.  Standing  upon  this,  they  spear  them 
in  large  numbers. 

During  the  winter  freshets,  Moore  swims  the  river  with 
the  mail  on  horseback,  an  old  Indian  never  failing  to  meet 
him  just  in  time  to  accompany  him  across  with  his  canoe. 
Now  the  blackened  ruins  of  log  houses  confirmed  the  re])ort 
of  several  poor  settlers  having  been  burned  out  of  house 
and  home.  People  building  cabins  in  the  forests  should 
clear  away  the  timber  around  them  for  at  least  50  rods. 

Arriving  at  Montesano  the  following  morning,  I  pro- 
ceeded by  steamer  to  Damon's  Point,  the  home  of  Captain 
Damon,  who  owns  a  very  extensive  dairy  ranch  here. 

THREE  DAYS  WITH  THE  PRINCIPAL  SEA-OTTER  HUNTERS  ON  THE 
NORTH  PACIFIC  COAST — THE  RANGE,  HABITS,  AND  MODE  OF 
HUNTING  THE   SEA-OTTER. 

The  shore  of  the  Pacific,  from  Gray's  Harbor  northward 
to  Point  Greenville,  a  distance  of  about  30  miles,  contains 
the  most  extensive  sea-otter  hunting  grounds  in  the  United 
States. 

The  object  of  my  visit,  to  examine  this  most  interesting 
pursuit,  becoming  known,  I  was  soon  introduced  to  three  of 
the  otter  hunters — S.  R.  Grover,  H.  W.  Weatherall  and  A. 
Congdon — who  had  come  to  Damon's  for  their  mail,  and  by 
them  cordially  invited  to  their  hunting  cabins.  I  most 
gladly  accepted  their  hospitality,  and  spent  three  days 
with  the  principal  sea-otter  hunters  of  the  North  Pacific 
coast. 

THE  8EA-0TTER, 

One  of  the  most  valuable  fur-bearing,  amphibious  mam- 
mals, is  found  chiefly  between  latitudes  49  and  60"  north, 
iu  Kamtschatka,  Alaska,  British  Columbia  and  Washing- 
ton's waters,  though  formerly  killed  in  considerable  num- 
bers as  far  south  as  the  southern  coast  of  California.  Their 
range  off  the  coast  of  Washington  extends  from  Gray's  Har- 
bor north  for  a  distance  of  about  30  miles.  When  driven 
off  by  storms  or  other  causes,  they  return  again  as  soon  as 
possible.     Their  preference  for  this   part  of  the  coast  is 


I 


276 


WA8mmT0N   TERltlTOHY. 


doubtless  due  to  the  abundance  of  clams  and  sea-crabs, 
their  principal  food,  found  here. 

The  full-grown  sea-otter  is  over  six  feet  in  length,  of  a 
lustrous  black  color,  with  a  round,  smooth  head,  short  neck, 
small  eyes  and  ears,  short  webbed  feet  or  flippers,  and 
weighs  from  50  to  75  pounds.  They  reach  maturity  at  from 
two  to  three  years,  but  are  known  to  live  to  be  over  twenty 
years  old. 

The  veteran  hunter,.  Congdon,  familiarly  known  as 
"Yank,"  killed  an  otter  in  1881  containing  a  bullet  shot 
into  it  by  Blodgett  in  1862. 

They  are  quite  prolific,  bearing  their  young  one  and  two 
at  a  time,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  thought  by  most 
of  the  hunters  that  they  bring  them  forth  in  the  water, 
since  they  are  found  at  sea  when  evidently  only  a  few  hours 
old,  and  of  late  years  they  are  seldom  seen  on  the  shore  or 
rocks. 

The  mother  shows  a  strong  attachment  for  the  infant 
otter,  folding  it  carefully  upon  her  breast,  when  swimming, 
never  abandoning  but  often  risking  her  own  life  to  protect 
it  when  closely  pursued.  They  are  supposed  to  live  almost 
exclusively  upon  clams  and  crabs,  no  other  articles  of  food 
having  been  found  in  their  stomachs.  They  dive  to  the 
bottom,  pull  up  the  clams  by  the  heads,  shell  and  eat  them 
with  surprising  dispatch. 

They  swim  upon  their  backs,  using  exclusively  their 
hind  flippers,  which,  when  moving  against  the  current,  have 
a  semi-rotary  screw  motion;  and  they  are  often  seen  flouting 
lazily  before  the  wind,  with  their  flippers  extended  upward 
for  sails. 

They  are  very  hard  to  kill,  and  never  give  up  the  struggle 
for  life  until  quite  dead,  when  the  head  and  tail  drop, 
leaving  only  a  small  portion  of  the  back  exposed.  They  are 
rapid  swimmers,  but  when  frightened,  sometimes  breach, 
jumping  out  of  the  water  their  full  length,  or  diving,  remain 
under  for  a  long  time,  and  coming  up  out  of  the  range  of  tlie 
hunter. 

Though  naturally  docile  and  easily  tamed,  they  defend 
themselves  bravely  when  attacked.      Not  long  ago  the  liunt- 


THE  SEA-OTTER    HUNTERS. 


277 


ers  witnessed  a  fierce  battle  between  a  sea-lion  and  an  otter, 
which  lasted  until  a  great  wave  cast  both  high  and  dry  upon 
the  beach.  Once  a  year,  in  July,  the  several  families  of 
otter  upon  this  range — variously  estimated  from  six  to  ten, 
with  from  twenty  to  fifty  members  in  each  —have  a  grand  re- 
union for  some  unknown  object. 

The  Indians  are  fond  of  their  meat,  which  is  very  fat  and 
oily,  considering  it  equal  to  elk  or  venison. 

Congdon  said  they  could  not  be  poisoned,  for  he  once 
fed  them  upon  strychnine,  which  they  ate  in  quantities,  with- 
out any  observable  bad  effect. 

The  male  otter  is  the  largest,  having  the  finest  and  most 
vahiable  fur,  which  is  in  prime  condition  at  all  seasons;  the 
best  specimens  bring  from  $80  to  $110,  none  having  been  sold 
for  less  than  $60  this  year. 

While  interviewing  the  hunters  at  Capt.  Damon's,  his 
daughter  came  into  the  room,  bringing  a  most  beautiful  otter 
skin  over  six  feet  in  length,  its  rich,  glossy  black  fur  spark- 
ling with  the  much  prized,  white  silver-tipped  hairs  inter- 
mixed. 

A  walk  of  some  ten  minutes,  through  a  light  belt  of 
Scotch  pine,  then  across  a  meadow  and  a  wide  beach  thickly 
covered  with  immense  drift  logs,  brought  me  to  "Yank's" 
cabin,  the  first  of  the  six,  which  at  intervals  of  about  lialf  a 
mile  along  the  shore  northward,  are  occupied  during  the 
summer  months  by 

THE  SEA-OTTER  HUNTERS. 

The  regular  professional  white  hunters  are  A.  Congdon, 
H.  Blodgett,  H.  W.  Weatherall,  S.  R.  Grover,  Clias.  Mc- 
Int^-re,  Capt,  Joseph  Parin,  A.  Holeman  and  Chas.  White. 
They  are  intelligent,  well-informed  men,  several  past  middle 
life,  Congdon  over  70  and  Capt.  Parin  55;  miners,  trappers, 
whalers  and  war  veterans,  full  of  rich  experience  and  thrill- 
ing adventure.  Congdon  has  hunted  sea-otter  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  for  over  30  years,  and  is  a  most  remarkable  specimen 
of  robust  health,  good  eyesight  and  steady  nerve  at  that  age; 
and  Blodgett  for  about  20  years,  continuously  at  this  place. 
There  are  also  several  successful  hunters  belonging  to  the 


i! 


278 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


Quinault  tribe  of  Indians,  Dan.  O.  Pittum,  Mason,  Hallas- 
kin,  Col.  Baker  Toastum  and  others.  The  last  named  drove 
me  up  from  the  steamer  to  Damon's  with  a  pair  of  flying 
trotters.  When  I  praised  his  fine  team  he  was  exceedingly 
gratified,  and  leaning  forward  and  elevating  the  reins  in  true 
race- course  style,  enthusiastically  exclaimed,  "Way  up! 
Way  up !  you  bet,"  his  long  black  hair  streaming  in  the  wind. 
Grover  says  this  extravagant  sporting  Indian  buys  the  best 
horses  he  can  find  almost  every  spring,  from  the  proceeds  of 
his  otter  hunting,  and  starves  them  to  death  the  following 
winter. 

They  received  me  with  the  utmost  cordiality,  Grover  and 
Mclntyre  going  with  me  to  Weatherall's  cabin.  A  young 
Indian  was  preparing  the  evening  meal,  and  after  an  excel- 
lent supper  on  boiled  crabs,  oyster  stew,  prunes,  meat,  bread 
and  butter,  etc.,  they  took  down  their  rifles  for  a  little  ofl- 
hand  target  practice. 

WHAT  THEY  SHOOT  WITH. 

Sharp's  rifles— from  12  to  16  lbs.,  from  40  to  45  lb.  cali- 
bre— are  used  exclusively  by  the  hunters.     They  are  very 
emphatic  in  their  preference,  after  having  tried  all  the  most 
favorably    known  of    other   manufacture.      For  accuracy, 
power,  safety,  promptness  and  durability,  combined,  they 
pronounce  them  superior  to  all  others.     They  make  their 
own  cartridges,  using  Hazard's  best  90  and  100  grain  rifle- 
powder,  and  conical  balls,  with  the  hunter's  initials  or  private 
mark  run  in  the  base  cavity,  to  assist  in  determining,  incase 
of  doubt,  who  fired  the  fatal  shot.     Their  rifles  are  kept  in 
splendid  order,  by  carefully  wiping  and  oiling  with  Singer's 
machine  sperm  oil,  after  using.     We  fired  several  times  all 
around,  the  only  difierence  in  our  shooting  being  that,  while 
I  missed,  they  hit  the  mark  almost  every  time!    And  yet, 
notwithstanding  their  remarkable  accuracy,  about  100  shots 
are  fired,  on  an  average,  for  every  otter  killed.     Formerly 
they  were  comparatively  tame — swimming  within  gun-shot 
of  the  shore,  but  now  seldom  come  within  three  or  four  hun- 
dred yards — and   then,  only  when   the   wind  blows   quite 
freshly  from  the  uoi'th  or  southwest.     The  best  target  and 


HOW    THE   OTTER  ARE   SHOT. 


279 


dead  shots  have  utterly  failed  at  otter-hunting.  Besides,  the 
most  perfect  skill  as  a  marksman,  it  requires  the  most  accu- 
rate judgment  in  estimating  distances  and  the  force  of  the 
drift  or  wind  and  the  voluntary  and  involuntary  motions  of 
the  animal  in  the  breakers. 


HOW  THE  OTTER  ARE  SHOT. 

There  are  only  about  two  good  otter-hunting  days  in  a 
week,  on  an  average,  during  the  season — from  May  to  Sep- 
tember —and  two  passed  after  my  arrival,  with  only  two  or 
three  long  range  shots  by  Weatherall.  I  was  pressed  to  re- 
main over  another  day,  and  when  the  wind  sprang  up  in  the 
afternoon,  climbed  up  with  Grover  to  the  top  of  one  of  his 
hunting-derricks.  These  consist  of  a  tripod  some  40  feet  in 
height,  constructed  of  poles  mounted  with  a  boxed  seat  pro- 
vided with  a  rifle-rest.  They  stand  out  in  the  ocean  several 
rods  at  high  tide — when  the  otter  run  most — and  at  intervals 
of  about  half  a  mile  for  a  long  distance,  there  being  fifteen 
derricks  in  all.  Weatherall,  Grover  and  Mclntyre  have  also 
hunted  successfully  from  a  great  rock  situated  about  one- 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore,  upon  which  they  built  a  cabin 
and  lived  for  several  months. 

When  the  otter  moves  too  rapidly  to  follow  on  foot, 
Weatherall  mounts  a  pony,  and  attaching  one  end  of  a  rope 
to  an  ingenious  combination  of  hand  and  horse  ladder 
mounted  on  wheels,  and  .vinding  the  other  end  around  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle,  gallops  up  or  down  the  beach  with 
his  movable  derrick  as  required,  until  within  range.  He  also 
keeps  two  most  intelligent  water-dogs — Rough  and  Sneider 
— to  bring  out  the  otter  when  killed  or  fatally  wounded, 
which  cost  him  $150. 

The  sea-otter  sleeps  very  soundly,  and  taking  advantage 
of  this  habit,  the  Indians  go  out  in  canoes  and  cautiously  ap- 
proaching, shoot  or  spear  them.  Weatherall  and  Holeman 
have  each  recently  purchased  fine  cedar  canoes,  and  propose 
to  try  the  same  method. 

All  the  hunters  are  provided  with  field  or  opera  glasses, 
some  preferring  the  latter  on  account  of  their  wider  field. 
Grover  uses  a  fine  Waldstein  opera,  and  after  looking  through 


p ' 


280 


WASHINGTON   TERIilTORT. 


it  for  a  short  time,  remarked:  "I  think  I  see  an  otter!  Yes, 
look?"  and  handing  me  the  glass,  seized  his  rifle  and  fired 
(some  400  yards)  making  a  splendid  shot.  Several  rounds 
followed,  before  the  sleek-headed  fellow  disappeared  for  the 
last  time.  It  was  most  admirable  shooting,  barely  missing; 
and  had  the  otter  rode  one  more  breaker  near  shore,  as  ex- 
pected, I  am  quite  sure  Grover  would  have  killed  it.  There 
was  a  little  skirmishing  all  along  the  line — one  otter  seriously 
wounded  by  Capt.  Parin,  but  none  captured. 

Returning  to  the  cabin,  I  examined  the  process  of  pre- 
paring the  skins  for  the  market.  It  is  very  simple,  consist- 
ing of  stretching  them,  fur  side  in,  over  two  smooth  boards, 
by  means  of  a  long  entering  wedge,  and  carefully  scraping 
off  all  meat  and  fatty  substance  w^ith  a  dull  knife.  After 
drying  for  about  three  days,  without  the  application  of  alum 
or  anything  else,  they  are  ready  for  shipment. 

THE  PROFITS  OF  THE  HUNTERS. 

In  former  years  considerable  fortunes  were  made  by  sea- 
otter  hunting,  but  since  they  have  grown  so  wild,  the  results 
vary  greatly,  according  to  the  skill  and  enterprise  of  the 
hunter,  ranging  from  a  few  hundreds  to  thousands.  Weath- 
erall,  for  example,  shot  five  otter  in  a  single  day,  worth  at 
least  1350;  but  this  is  nearly  one-fifteenth  of  the  entire  num- 
ber killed  here  during  the  season. 

The  steamer  Montesano  did  not  touch  at  Damon's  Point 
as  usual  on  her  down  trip.  The  Indians  had  all  gone  to  a 
death  dance — over  an  old  man  drowned  while  fishing — ex- 
cept one,  and  he  had  been  sent  across  the  harbor  by  Col. 
Oliver  Wood,  of  the  Quinault  Indian  Agency.  While  cast- 
ing about  how  to  get  over,  I  met  the  Colonel,  a  very  affable 
gentleman,  who  kindly  proposed  to  go  out  on  the  point  and 
hail  Indian  Sampson,  whose  returning  sail  could  be  seen  in 
the  distance.  Sampson  saw  oar  signal,  and  carried  us  safely 
to  Peterson's  Point.  The  stage  for  Shoalwater  Bay,  15  miles 
distant,  had  been  gone  over  an  hour.  Could  I  overtake  it, 
and  still  make  connection  through  to  Portland  ?  The  land- 
lady thought  it  impossible.  I  determined,  however  to  try. 
Reaching  the  fine  beach  stretching  away  southward,  level 


THROUOn   THE   PUQET  SOUND   REGION , 


281 


as  a  floor  for  ten  miles,  the  stage  heavily  loaded  and  moving 
slowly,  was  seen  several  miles  alieaS^     Keeping  close  to  the 
water's  edge  where  the  sands  were  hardest,  I  rapidly  gained 
upon  and  overhauled  it  just  before  leaving  the  ocean  shore, 
for  the  pine  woods  of  Coke's  Point.     The  driver  now  urged 
his  team  to  its  best  efforts,  and  the  last  two  miles  was  a 
warm   race,  but   the   stage   was   beaten  two  minutes.     The 
steamer,  however,  which  we  had  been  assured  would  wait 
for  the  arrival  of  the  stage,  had  left.     Searching  the  shore 
of  the  bay,  we  discovered  a  small  sailboat  high  and  dry, 
which,  after  some  difficulty,  we  launched  by  means  of  roll- 
ers, then  found  the  owner,  who  Carried  us  over  to  Oyster- 
ville,  still  iu  time  to  secure  passage  on  the  out-going  stage. 

Trip  No.  7.  -Fi'om  Yaquina  Bay,  Onyon,  to  Pmjet  Sound, 
on  steamer  Yaquhia,  vmfinr/  Port  Tcnonse)id,  Seattle,  Ta- 
roma,  Olympia,  Wliatcom,  and  many  other  2^ohits  of  in- 
terest, 900  miles. 

The  good  people  of  Newport — men,  women  and  children, 
flocked  to  the  blufi's  overlooking  the  beautiful  harbor,  and 
enthusiastically  waved  us  their  adieus.  The  sea  was  as 
smooth  as  though  it  had  never  storm-fossed  and  wrecked  a 
poor  sailor  or  passenger,  and  made  the  latter  sick  unto  death, 
and  never  would  do  so  again  With  a  favoring  wind  and 
bright  starlight  night,  early  on  the  following  morning,  we 
were  passing  Fort  Hancock,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River. 

After  detaching  the  bold,  imposing  headlands  of  the 
Cape,  to  welcome  and  guide  the  mariner  into  its  grand  river, 
the  Coast  Mountains  recede  for  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  ocean — the  intervening  country  being  comparatively  un- 
broken, presenting  everywhere  the  dark,  green  foliage  of  its 
interminable  forests.  The  homes  of  a  few  settlers  are  seen 
half-concealed  among  the  trees  bordering  the  fine  beach. 
The  "  Ocean  House,"  a  sea-side  resort,  is  situated  here. 

When  opposite  Gray's  Harbor,  12  miles  further  on,  the 
thick  clouds  which  had  obscured  the  summits  of  the  moun- 
tains for  several  hours,  rose  and  unveiled  the  snowy  peaks  of 
Mount  St.  Helens,  far  in  the  interior,  and  the  steep,  rugged, 


'I 


i*- 


282 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


^1  J 


snow-covered  sides  of  the  Coast  Range  now  approaching 
nearer  the  sea. 

Dense  clouds  hung  threateningly  along  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  a  mist  enveloped  the  shore,  confining  our  views 
to  narrow  limits  around  the  vessel,  an  hour  before  sun- 
down. 

I  awoke  at  3:30  the  following  morning,  with  the  wind 
blowing  freshly  into  my  stateroom,  which  I  had  imprudently 
left  open.  I  could  hear  the  wind  and  the  pouring  rain,  and 
looking  out,  see  the  breakers  glistening  through  the  dark- 
ness.    The  ship  was  swinging  with  rapid  but  easy  motion. 

I  found  Mr.  Hatch,  our  most  obliging  purser,  in  his 
night-clothes,  "corraling,"  u£  he  said,  his  books  and  sta- 
tionery, which  had  broken  loose  and  were  playing  a  reckless 
game  of  "blind  man's  buflf,"  with  damaging  collisions.  The 
dishes  in  the  pantry  were  clinking  a  lively  medley,  which 
seemed  to  threaten  their  destruction. 

Proceeding  to  the  upper  deck,  I  was  met  at  the  top  of  the 
ladder  by  Moody,  who  exclaimed,  "Look  out,  or  you'll  go 
overboard ! "  I  seized  the  railing  and  held  on,  while  a  big 
wave  rooked  the  vessel  like  a  cradle  in  the  hands  of  an  angry 
nurse. 

"It  didn't  stay  '  settled  fair '  very  long,"  I  remarked;  the 
barometer  having  indicated  that  a  few  hours  before. 

"  No;  but,  thank  God,  it  will  soon  be  daylight,  and  we  are 
not  far  from  Cape  Flattery,"  replied  Moody. 

Soon  the  Captain  appeared  in  his  storm  suit,  and  shouting 
to  the  helmsman,  "Nor'  by  nor'east!"  continued:  "This 
is  a  rocky  coast,  and  I  have  kept  well  out  at  sea.  But  for 
the  storm  we  would  have  reached  the  Straits  of  Fuca  two 
hours  ago." 

At  6:35  A.M.,  while  the  mate  was  securing  a  rope  on  the 
mainsail,  and  the  Captain  had  gone  a  moment  for  a  warmer 
coat,  I  discovered  the  dim  outlines  of  a  high  projecting  point 
of  land  right  ahead. 

"Is  that  the  Cape?"  I  asked  of  Jaques. 


;ape 
Yes,  that  is  the  Cape. 


Just  then,  the  Captain  returning,  T  inquired,  "How  can 
you  hit  it  so  close  in  such  foul  weather  ?  "  for  we  had  seen  no 
light. 


THE  STRAITS   OF  FUG  A. 


288^ 


"  Oh,  I  have  been  figuring  it  out  carefully,"  he  answered, 
smilingly. 

Soon  we  were  running  between  Cape  Flattery  light-house, 
situated  on  a  little  island  close  to  the  main  land,  called  Ta- 
toosh,  and  Duncan's  Bock,  one  mile  and  an  eighth  from  the 
shore,  and  were  in  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca. 

A  little  pilot  boat  lay  waiting  for  service,  for  whir>h  we 
had  no  need. 

THE  STEAITS  OF  FUCA  are  an  open  sea,  broad  and 
deep  enough  for  the  navies  of  the  world  to  advance  in  battle 
line. 

The  mountains  of  Vancouver  Island  loomed  up  through 
the  mist  to  the  northward,  as  we  rounded  into 

NEAH  BAY,  six  miles  from  the  cape.  Steaming  through 
a  fleet  of  sealing  schooners,  we  dropped  anchor  in  30  feet  of 
water  opposite  the  buildings  of  the 

MAKAH  INDIAN  AGENCY, 

A  Government  Life  Saving  Station,  the  store  and  warehouse 
of  the  Galleck  Brothers,  fur  traders,  and  the  Indian  quar- 
ters. The  shore  was  lined  with  hundreds  of  Indian  canoes, 
made  from  great  cedars,  many  of  them  over  30  feet  in  length, 
carrying  from  20  to  30  people.  A  large  one,  paddled  by  five 
brawny  Indians,  came  alongside,  with  Mr.  Gus  Galleck, 
for  whom  we  had  fifteen  tons  of  freight. 

"How  will  you  take  it?"  asked  the  Captain.  "In  ca- 
noes," replied  Galleck,  and  large  boxes  and  heavy  packages 
and  barrels  were  lowered,  and  so  nicely  balanced  by  the 
dusky  navigators,  in  their  canoe  lighters,  that  the  transfer 
was  made  without  accident  and  with  great  dispatch.  A 
party  of  some  15  Indian  women  packed  the  goods  from  the 
beach  to  the  warehouse,  a  great  muscular  brave,  nearly 
naked,  condescending  to  assist  them  in  loading  their  heavy 
burdens  upon  their  heads  and  backs. 

While  the  transfer  was  going  on,  by  invitation  of  Mr. 
Galleck,  we  visited  his  pleasant  home,  and  the  quarters  of 
Chief  Aschicabic  and  Indian  Saxey,  examining  many  fine 
specimens  of    Indian  work — baskets,  mats,  flasks,  napkin 


M 


I 


WASHINOTON    IFAIRITORT. 


rings,  etc.  We  regretted  to  find  the  Chief  absent.  His 
wife  was  sitting  on  the  floor,  braiding  u  mat,  with  their 
bright  little  daughter  clinging  to  her  shoulders,  looking 
wonderingly  upon  the  strange  visitors.  The  walls  were 
hung  with  various  articles  of  curious  Indian  wear.  An  old 
woman  was  cleaning  fish  in  a  corner,  with  two  or  three  bush- 
els of  clams  around  her.  A  bladder  full  of  seal  oil  lay  on 
the  table,  with  an  abundant  supjily  of  clried  fish  and  other 
Indian  luxuries. 

Aschicabic  is  worth  several  thousand  dollars,  and  it  is 
said  that  most  of  his  tribe,  now  numbering  about  1000,  have 
a  few  hundred  in  gold  saved  up.  They  are  good-sized, 
healthy  and  strong. 

Dr.  Powers  says  they  bathe  in  the  sea  every  morning 
throughout  the  year. 

Returning  to  the  beach,  we  met  a  party  just  in  from  a 
seal  hunt,  bringing  four  seals  with  them.  They  go  out  in 
their  canoes,  two  in  each,  from  20  to  100  miles,  cautiously 
approach  the  seal  when  sleeping  and  spear  them.  The  use 
of  fire-arms  for  their  capture  is  not  allowed.  They  receive 
from  11.50  to  $7.50  for  each  seal  skin,  and  in  imitation  of 
their  white  brethren,  were  on  a  strike  for  higher  prices. 

Nine  of  us  got  into  a  medium-sized  canoe,  and  were 
quickly  paddled  to  the  steamer,  an  Indian  woman  steering  it 
most  skillfully. 

Bidding  our  Neah  friends  good-by,  we  sailed  for  Port 
Townsend,  95  miles  from  the  cape.  The  sun  shines  again, 
the  wind  shifts  to  the  northward,  driving  the  clouds  into  the 
mountains,  and  giving  us  a  bright,  royal  day  for  our  glorious 
ride. 

A  little  way  out,  the  steam  tug  Goliah,  belonging  to  the 
Port  Gamble  Mill  Company,  was  towing  an  American  and  for- 
eign bark  down  the  straits :  then  a  full-rigged  ship,  with  all 
sails  set,  was  beating  her  way,  running  close  to  the  Vancouver 
shore,  15  miles  away;  at  Challan  Bay  we  passed  a  salmon  fish- 
ery; five  miles  further,  at  the  mouth  of  Pyscht  River,  23 
miles  from  Neah -Bay,  a  lumbering  camp,  and  at  five  o'clock 
Race  Rock  light-house  on  the  Vancouver  shore. 

The  straits  are  here  about  18  miles  in  width,  deep  as  the 


PUGET   SOUND. 


285 


ocean,  with  a  current  of  three  miles  an  hour.  The  Wash- 
ington shores  are  bold  and  often  precipitous;  the  snow-cov- 
ered peaks  of  the  Olympic  Bange  looked  down  upon  us  from 
above  the  clouds;  the  island  of  San  Juan  was  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance on  our  left,  New  Duugeness  light  on  the  right,  when 
darkness  closed  the  sirene  until  morning,  which  found  us  at 

PORT  T0WN8END,  the  principal  port  of  entry  of  the 
North  Pacific  coast. 

It  is  very  picturesquely  situated  upon  a  beautiful  and 
excellent  harbor,  95  miles  from  Cape  Flattery  and  45  miles 
from  Seattle. 

The  business  houses  occupy  a  narrow  strip  near  the 
shore,  and  the  residences  the  summit  of  the  bills,  a  hundred 
feet  or  more  above. 

A  garrison  of  United  States  troops  is  stationed  within 
sight  across  the  bay, 

It  has  daily  communication,  by  steamer,  with  the  prin- 
cipal points  on  the  Sound;  tri-weekly  with  Victoria,  B.  C; 
weekly  with  New  Dungeness,  Port  Angeles,  Elwah,  Pyscht, 
Hoko,  Neah  Bay  and  the  San  Juan  group  of  islands;  tri- 
monthly  with  San  Francisco,  and  monthly  with  Alaska. 
Commanding  the  trade  of  a  large  scope  of  country,  it  does  a 
business  disproportionate  to  its  size. 

No  less  than  400  vessels,  with  an  aggregate  capacity  of 
over  250,000  tons,  laden  with  exports  of  lumber,  coal,  wheat 
and  other  home  products,  valued  at  $1,435,615,  have  cleared 
from  this  modest  little  port  in  a  single  year. 

Leaving  Port  Townsend,  we  soon  entered 

PUGET  SOUND  proper,  which  for  extent  and  depth, 
number  and  excellence  of  its  harbors,  safety  of  navigation, 
and  grandeur  of  scenery  combined,  is  the  most  magnificent 
body  of  water  in  the  world.  It  has  more  than  1500  miles  of 
shore  line,  hundreds  of  beautiful  islands  and  bays,  deep 
water  everywhere,  and  abounds  in  fish  and  game.  Whidby's 
Island  extends  on  the  left  for  nearlv  40  miles,  its  immediate 
shores  thickly  wooded,  but  containing  considerable  open- 
ings, with  prosperous  settlements  in  the  interior.  On  the 
right,  Ports  Ludlow,  Gamble  and  Madison,  the  locations  of 


W 


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11 


286 


WASIIINUTUN    TEUHlWlir. 


the  most  extensive  Haw-millB  ou  the  coast,  are  hooii  puHHud. 
Then  the  entrance  to  Possession  Bound,  anil  a  little  further 
on  Sandy  Point  Light-house,  wheu 

SEATTLE,  the  principal  city  of  the  territory,  comes  in 
full  view. 

This  city,  already  containing  a  population  of  over  7000 
people,  has  reached  the  summit  of  the  harbor-sloping  hills, 
and  is  still  extending  its  limits  ambitiously  toward  the 
beautiful  shores  of  Lake  Washington.  Walking  over  the 
three  miles  of  rolling,  lightly-timbered  pine  lauds  to  the 
lake,  I  found  parties  of  men  digging  and  burning  out  the 
great  stumps  of  forest  trees  upon  lots  <  oe-quarters  of  a 
mile  from  the  city  front,  which  they  said  re  selling  from 
$350  to  11000  each. 

The  Territorial  University,  occupying  a  prominent  cen- 
tral location,  is  an  imposing  structure.  A  $25,000  public 
school  biiilding  and  palatial  hotel  were  in  course  of  erection. 
Her  marine  numbers  over  50  vessels,  and  her  annual  coal 
exportations  exceed  150,000  tons. 

It  is  early  to  determine  with  much  certainty  the  location 
of  the  city  which  will  in  the  near  future  rise  to  greatness 
upon  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound.  I  have  seen  enough  of 
the  abounding  resources  of  lumber,  coal  and  iron  lying  in 
Western  Washington  alone,  to  leave  no  doubt  in  my  mind 
but  that  their  development,  now  so  rapidly  progressing,  will 
build  up  a  populous  commercial  and  manufacturing  city 
upon  these,  the  most  magnificent  of  inland  waters.  Nature 
has  not  only  provided  these  great  materials  of  wealth  in  lav- 
ish abundance,  but  made  them  so  accessible  that  their  util- 
ization is  as  certain  as  the  westward  movement  of  the  mil- 
lions now  seeking  homes  on  the  Pacific  slope.  The  Straits 
of  Juan  de  Fuca  are  an  open  sea  channel  from  10  to  18  miles 
in  width,  and  from  25  to  250  fathoms  in  depth,  the  only  safe 
entrance  in  stormy  weather  on  the  whole  North  Pacific  coast. 
Ships  may  sail  through  without  the  aid  of  pilots,  and  when 
inside,  find  numerous  convenient  land-locked  harbors,  afford- 
ing safe  anchoring  grounds  during  the  severest  storms. 

Seattle  possesses  the  great  natural  advantages  of  a  cen- 


T 


SEATTLK. 


387 


trill  puHitiuii  on  the  Huumi,  iiiul  the  cuncentratiuit  there 
ulreiidy  of  hirge  capital  ami  iinpurtaut  intereHtH,  uiuler  the 
watchful  control  of  an'  exceptionally  able  and  ontorprisiug 
class  of  citizens.  The  great  lumber  manufacturing  estnb- 
lishments  of  Blakeloy,  Seabeck,  Tacoma,  Madison,  Gamble 
and  Ludlow,  lie  within  a  radius  of  30  miles;  her  extensive 
coal  fields  are  the  most  productive  on  the  coast,  and  consider- 
able bodies  of  the  richest  and  most  available  farming  lands 
in  the  Territory  lie  near  at  hand.  Its  growth  has  boon  so 
rapid  that  tlio  stumps  of  the  forest  trees  are  still  standing  iu 
many  of  the  streets  just  as  they  were  left  by  the  woodman's 
ttxe.  The  suburbs  of  the  city  extend  to  the  beautiful 
shores  of  Lake  Washington,  affording  admirable  sites 
for  country  seats  and  excellent  advantages  for  summer 
resorts.  Its  harbor  is  safe  and  commodious  enough  for 
all  the  demands  of  a  largo  commerce.  With  such  com- 
manding advantages,  the  future  of  Seattle  is  to  a  groat  ex- 
tent in  the  hands  of  its  people.  Portland  and  New  Tacoma 
will  be  powerful  competitors  for  the  trade  of  Eastern  Wash- 
ington and  Oregon.  The  combined  capital  of  these  places 
and  of  the  great  companies  now  controlling  the  main  lines 
of  transportation  of  this  region,  will  txuito  to  grasp  and  hold 
as  long  as  possible,  this  immense  interior  traflSc.  It  will 
naturally  flow  toward  the  best  markets  for  the  producers. 
Seattle  should  lose  no  time  in  building  the  railroad  over  the 
Cascade  Mountains  already  projected,  and  create  such  a 
market.  When  completed,  wheat  can  be  shipped  from  her 
wharves  in  deep  sea  ships,  cheaper  than  from  any  other  port 
north  of  San  Francisco.  Western  Montana  and  Idaho,  as  well  as 
Eastern  Washington,  would  come  to  her  for  coal  and  timber; 
manufactures  would  spi'ing  up,  and  agriculture  gradually 
reclaim  from  che  neighboring  forests  extensive  areas  of  fer- 
tile lands,  capable  of  supplying  all  home  demands  and  a 
large  surplus  for  exportation. 

NEW  TACOMA..— The  Puget  Sound  termiuus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  is  situated  on  the  southerly  shore 
of  Commencement  Bay,  about  midway  between  Seattle  and 
Olympia.     It  commands  one  of  the  most  sublime  mountain, 


288 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


forest,  and  inland  water  views,  found  on  this  continent. 
Mount  Ranier,  the  grand  central  figure,  clothed  in  perpetual 
white,  surveys  in  silent  majesty  from  her  towering  heights 
the  magnificent  scene.  The  town  site  comprises  a  series  of 
plateaux,  the  first  under  the  high  bluffs,  oocupied  by  the 
depots,  wharves,  warehouses,  and  headquarter  offices  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad;  the  second  by  business  houses, 
the  residences  covering  the  hill-sides  from  100  to  200  feet 
above.  The  great  stumps  of  hundreds  of  forest  trees  still 
standing  in  the  streets  and  door-yards,  forcibly  suggest  the 
rapidity  of  the  onward  march  of  civilization  on  this  coast. 
Its  population  now  numbers  about  3500,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing. 

New  Tacoma  bases  her  hopes  of  future  importance  upon 
four  great  interests;  her  mines  of  coal  and  iron,  forests  of 
fir  and  cedar  timber,  agriculture,  and  foreign  commerce. 
The  excellence  of  its  harbor,  the  variety  and  extent  of  the 
tributary  resources,  determined  the  location  here  of  one  of 
the  great  terminal  points  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

The  whole  country  for  30  miles  or  more  along  the  western 
base  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  20  miles  eastward,  is  a  vast 
field  of  coal. 

The  manufacture  of  lumber,  already  a  most  \nluable  in- 
dustry, will  materially  enlarge  with  the  growth  of  the 
country;  and  there  is  a  sufficient  quantity  of  iigiucultural 
lands  within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles,  when  improved,  to  sus- 
tain a  large  population. 

It  is  beyond  the  possibilities  of  human  foresight  to  de- 
mine  which  place  upon  the  Sound  will  eventually  control  the 
principal  export  trade 

Seattle  has  the  advantage  of  position,  and  New  Tacoma 
of  cori)orate  capital  and  influence,  and  one  railroad  already 
in  operation.  Both  will  flourish  and  increase  in  size  for 
many  years,  from  the  development  of  their  separate  re- 
sources, independent  of  Eastern  trade;  and  both  will  soon 
reach  out  for  that,  by  railroads  over  the  mountains  into  the 
great  Columbia  basin. 


OLYMPIA. 


289 


OLYMPIA..— Taking  the  little  steamer  Zephyr  from  Ta- 
coma  and  sailingsouthward.,  touching  at  the  old  settlement  of 
Steilacoom,  andpasping  near  the  Territorial  Penitentiary  on 
McNeils  Island,  about  three  o'clock  we  rounded  into  Budd's 
Inlet,  when  Olympia,  the  capital,  charmingly  situated  at  its 
head,  came  in  full  view.  It  contains  about  1500  inhabitants, 
and  is,  in  many  respects,  the  most  inviting,  home-like  place 
in  the  northwest. 

The  inlet  is  >\bout  six  miles  long  and  one  mile  in  width — 
its  picturesque  shores  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  tir, 
cedar  and  other  woods.  It  abounds  with  fish,  clams  and 
oysters,  the  latter  being  exported  in  considerable  quantities. 

The  Olympia  and  Tenio  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  connects 
with  the  main  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific  at  Tenio,  about 
15  miles  south. 

^.  little  way  out  from  Olympia,  the  narrow  gauge  road 
runs  through  the  village  of  Tumwater.  The  beautiful  falls 
of  the  Des  Chutes  River,  over  60  feet,  witliin  half  a  mile, 
afford  an  excellent  water-power,  improved  by  saw,  flour  and 
other  mills. 


it  1 


F«OM   SEATTLE  TO   WHATCOM — THE   SNOHOMISH,    STEILAGUAMISH, 
SKAGIT  AND  NOOKSACK  COUNTRY. 

Proceeding  northward  from  Seattle,  the  100  miles  of 
country  lying  between  it  and  the  British  possessions,  is  richer 
in  timber,  agricultural  and  mineral  resources,  than  any  other 
of  equal  extent  bordering  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound.  It 
comprises  the  counties  of  Snohomish  and  Whatcom,  the 
latter,  the  extreme  northwestern  in  the  United  States,  and 
both  extending  eastward  to  the  divide  of  the  Cascade  Range. 
Numerous  streams  drain  the  western  slope  of  these  moun- 
tains, within  the  section  described,  the  Snoqualmie,  Skyko- 
mish,  Snohomish,  Steilaguamish,  Skagit,  Samish,  Lumni 
and  Nooksack  being  the  most  important.  Then'  are  quite 
extensive  tracts  of  rich  tide  and  beaver-dam  lands  bordering 
them.  They  are  expensive  !:>  reclaim,  but  produce  large 
crops  of  oats,  hops,  potatoes  and  other  vegetables.  Above 
tide  water  there  are  numerous  comparatively  lightly-timbered 
valleys,  available  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  especially  in 


290 


WASHING  TON   TEliBITOR  r. 


the  Nooksack  region,  many  thousand  acres  of  level  plateau 
still  ojjen  for  settlement.  The  linest  bodies  of  fir  timber  in 
the  Territory  lie  along  the  Skagit  and  Samish  Rivers,  and 
also  promising  coal,  iron  and  gold  fields. 

About  22  miles  from  Seattle,  at  the  white,  terraced  bluffs 
of  Skagit  head — the  southeastern  extremity  of  Whidby 
Island — we  entered  Possession  Sound,  the  northern  arm  of 
Admiralty  Inlet,  which  leads  to  the  straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca, 
through  Saratoga  Passage  and  Deception  Pass.  The  shores 
of  the  mainland  and  the  islands  are  uniformly  covered  with 
a  thick  growth  of  fir,  spruce,  hemlocks  and  pine,  the  former 
prevailing.  There  are  occasional  farm  houses  and  clearings 
in  sight,  though  the  forests  are  as  yet  almost  unbroken. 

Eight  miles  beyond  at  the  entrance  to  Port  Gardner,  we 
landed  at  Mukilteo,  a  little  village  of  25  buildings,  mainly 
supported  by  the  lumber  business.  There  is  a  large  body  of 
fine  fir  timber  lying  between  the  Sound  and  the  Snohomish 
Itiver,  of  which  the  Port  Blakeley  and  Port  Gamble  Mill 
Companies  are  the  principal  owners.  The  firm  of  Blackman  & 
Howard  are  getting  out  hero  over  2,000,000  feet  of  logs  an- 
nually for  these  mills.  Salmon  are  caught  here  in  consid- 
erable number  *  and  taken  to  the  Seattle  cannery. 

Leaving  Mukilteo,  we  passed  to  the  right  of  Gednoy  Island, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Snohomish.  Along  the  river  and 
its  tributaries  there  are  prosperous  farming  settlements  and 
extensive  logging  camps. 

Nine  miles  from  Mukilteo,  the  00  or  70  buildings  of  the 
Tualip  Indian  Agency  presented  an  inviting  appearance. 
Gen.  O'Kane  is  agent  of  the  Mucklcslioot,  Old  Man-House, 
Tulalip,  Swinomish  and  Lummi  Reservations,  containing 
altogether  2800  Indians,  5C0  of  whom  belong  on  the  Tualip. 
The  Catholics  maintain  a  mission  school  there.  Just  as  wo 
were  loavir'j  Sister  Blandier,  in  charge,  arrived  in  a  largo 
skiff,  rowed  by  12  well-dressed,  comely  Indian  girls. 

Twenty  miles  further,  through  Saratoga  Passage,  past 
McLean's,  Eaton's  and  Forrest's  logging  camjjs,  and  the 
entrance  to  Holmes'  Bay,  between  Camano  and  Whidby 
Islands,  which  compose  Island  County,  and  we  reached 


FB^H  SEATTLE    TO    WHATCOM: 


291 


COUPEVILLE,  its  principal  town,  a  pleasant  village, 
comprising  about  30  buildings,  situated  on  the  latter,  on 
the  south-  side  of  and  one-half  mile  from  the  head  of  Penn 
Cove,  Covehmd. 

This  is  oae  of  the  numerous  termini  of  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad,  which  lie  all  along  the  Sound,  at  short  inter- 
vals, from  Olympia  to  Bellingham  Bay. 

Olympia,  Tacoma,  Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  Freeport, 
Mukilteo,  Holmes'  Bay,  Coveland,  Anacortes,  Seliome  and 
Whatcom  have  all  had  expectations  of  winning  the  great 
prize,  and  becoming  the  commercial  metropolis  of  this  re- 
gion. I  met  many  who  spoke  hopefully  of  several  of  these 
points,  though  the  prevailing  opinion  among  disinterested 
outsiders  is  that  Seattle  occupies  the  most  commanding  po- 
sition on  the  Sound,  and  will  control  its  chief  trade  in  the 
future. 

It  has  been  propo&ed  to  utilize  the  fine  harbor  of  Cove- 
land  as  a  terminal  point,  by  cutting  a  ship  canal  from  its 
head  across  Whidby  Island,  only  one  and  a  half  miles  to  the 
Sound,  opposite  Port  Townsend. 

On  the  shore  of  the  cove  and  of  Penn  Harbor,  six  miles 
to  the  north,  are  some  of  the  best  farms  in  Washington — 
Whidby  Island  being  one  of  the  oldest  settled  portions,  and 
now  containing  a  population  of  about  1000. 

UTSALADY,  one  of  tlie  most  extensive  lumber  manufac- 
turing places  of  the  Puget  Mill  Company,  was  nest  reached. 
It  occupies  a  sheltered  cove  at  the  uorth  end  of  Camano 
Island,  and  contains  besides  the  mill,  store  and  warehouses, 
about  20  other  buildings. 

The  mill  has  been  operated  since  1853,  employs  80  men, 
and  has  a  capacity  for  sawing  80,000  feet  of  lumber  daily. 
They  pay  16.50  per  thousand  feet  for  logs,  and  sell  common 
lumber  at  $15,  and  finished  at  $18  per  thousand  -shipping 
principally  to  San  Francisco  and  Honolulu. 

OLOHIOUH   SCENEUY. 

Of  all  the  ocean,  sound  and  lake  shores,  these  are  the 
most  magnificent;  so  clean  cut  and  handsomely  wooded  with 
evergreens,     and    abounding  in  picturesque   situations,    a 


i 


292 


WASHINGTON  TEURITOBY. 


charming  labyrinth  of  straits,  inlets,  islands,  bays  and  cosy 
indentations,  surrounded  by  the  grand  snow-covered  peaks 
and  slopes  of  the  Olympic  and  Cascade  Mountains. 

When  better  known  and  more  accessible  by  such  conve- 
niences of  travel  as  modern  tourists  desire,  they  will  be 
much  resorted  to  during  the  summer  months  by  health  and 
pleasure  seekers  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

From  Utsalady  northward  to  Bellingham  Bay  our  course 
lay  among  a  group  of  exceedingly  beautiful  islands— Fidal- 
go,  Guemes,  Cypress,  Lummi  and  others,  belonging  to 
Whatcom  County. 

LACONNER,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Skagit,  is  ap- 
proached by  a  narrow,  tortuous  channel,  winding  close  to 
small  rock-bound  islets,  through  "  Hole  in  the  Wall  "  and 
Swinomish  Slough 

The  town  comprises  about  40  buildings,  the  precinct 
having  a  population  of  600.  The  Laconner  bottoms,  so  fa- 
mous for  their  fertility,  lie  adjoining  on  the  north.  They 
comprise  about  20,000  acres,  14,000  of  which  are  under 
cultivation,  producing  enormous  crops  of  oats,  the  average 
yield  being  about  70  bushels  per  acre;  8400  bushels  are 
said  to  have  been  harvested  from  84  acres,  and  125  bushels 
per  acre  from  a  40-acre  field  owned  by  Mr.  Dave  Mc- 
Cormick. 

The  Swinomish  Indian  Reservation,  of  over  6000  acres, 
lies  upon  Fidalgo  Island,  and  embraces  a  large  tract  of  rich 
tide  lauds. 

THE  SKAGIT  VALLEY  is  the  most  important  lum- 
bering, farming  nnd  mining  region  in  Western  Washington. 
It  extends  to  the  base  of  the  Cascade  Range,  varying  in 
width  from  three  to  eight  miles,  and  containing  a  consider- 
able area  of  rich  agricultural  lands. 

The  river  is  navigable  for  70  miles  from  the  mouth,  and 
bordered  by  extensive  bodies  of  the  choicest  timber,  upon 
which  several  of  the  largest  saw-n^^lls  mainly  depend.  Coal, 
iron  and  gold  mines  have  been  discovered  and  are  being  de- 
veloped with  promising  results. 


s  and  cosy 

ered  peaks 

s. 

uch  conve- 

ej  will  be 

health  and 

our  course 
ids— Fidal- 
ilonging  to 


git,  is  ap- 
ig  close  to 
Wall  "  and 

le  precinct 
;oms,  so  fa- 
irth.     They 

are  under 
;he  average 
jushels  are 
125  bushels 

Dave  Mc- 

6000  acres, 
ract  of  rich 


ortant  lum- 

V^ashington. 

varying  in 

a  cousider- 

raouth,  and 
mber,  upon 
end.  Coal, 
re  being  de- 


THE  SKAGIT    VALLEY. 


298 


S 


Mosquitoes  are  reported  very  troublesome,  especially  on 
the  delta  tide  lands.  The  overflow  of  the  Skagit  is  some- 
times very  destructive. 

Ten  miles  from  Laconuer  we  rounded  into  Squaw's  Bay, 
on  the  northeast  side  of  Fidalgo  Island.  This  is  a  remark- 
able healthy  and  prolific  locality.  On  one  side  a  white- 
haired,  ruddy-faced  veteran  came  out  in  a  small  boat  for  his 
mail,  rowed  in  good  style  by  ayoung  daughter,  oneof  211iving 
children;  and  on  the  other  Mr.  Monk  showed  us  a  field  of 
wheat,  which  he  said  will  yield  75  bushels  per  acre.  He  set- 
tled at  Fidalgo  21  years  ago,  the  first  white  man  in  that  sec- 
tion, selected  a  choice  tract  of  400  acres,  which  he  farms 
most  thoroughly  and  successfully,  underdraining  his  most 
productive  lands. 

Four  miles  further,  the  steamer  touched  at  Anacortes,  a 
small  village  situated  at  the  north  end  of  Fidalgo  Island, 
aspiring  to  become  the  metropolis  of  the  nortliwest  coast. 

Next  at  Samish,  on  the  mainland,  10  miles  from  Anacor- 
tes, near  the  mou<ili  of  the  Samish  River,  upon  which  there 
is  considerable  logging  and  cultivation  of  tide  lands. 

Between  Samish  and  Sehome  there  are  inexhaustible 
quantities  of  what  is  known  as  Bellingham  Bay  stone.  It  is 
a  handsome  blue  sandstone,  easily  cut,  but  quite  durable. 
Several  fine  blocks  in  Portland,  Seattle  and  Port  Towusend 
have  been  built  of  it. 


BELLINGHAM  BAY,  SEHOME,  WHATCOM  AND  THE  NOOKSACK 

COUNTRY. 

About  ten  o'clock  wo  reached  Bellingham  Bay,  one  of  the 
most  commodious  and  safe  harbors  on  this  coast.  It  is  14 
miles  in  length  and  three  in  width,  with  from  eight  to  twen- 
ty fathoms  of  water,  and  good  anchorage. 

Sehome  and  Whatcom  are  both  small  villages  of  about 
20  buildings  each,  situated  a  mile  and  one-half  apart,  near 
the  mouth  of  Whatcom  Creek. 

They  flourished  during  the  operations  of  the  coal  mines 
there,  but  since  their  suspension,  in  1877,  have  been  almost 
deserted  until  quite  recently. 

Whatcom  is  filling  up  again,  and  now  that  the  tide  of 


■     ! 


iP 


294 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


immigratioQ  is  setting  into  the  Nooksack  country,  its  future 
prosperity  is  assured,  or  of  some  point  upon  the  bay  acces- 
sible by  deep-draught  vessels.  Whatcom  Creek  aflfords  an  ex- 
(;ellent  water  power,  now  being  improved  with  a  saw-mill. 
That  portion  of  Whatcom  County,  lying  between  Mount 
Baker  and  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  probably  comprises,  all 
things  considered,  the  most  desirable  Government  lands  in 
Western  Washington.  The  climate  is  very  healthy,  and  the 
water  good;  winters  comparatively  mild,  rainfall  moderate, 
soil  rich,  and  incoming  people  intelligent  and  industrious. 
I  saw  apple  and  pear  trees  full  of  fruit,  and  fine  gardens  of 
potatoes,  onions,  peas,  beans,  green  corn,  etc. 

This  is  a  rare  field  for  sportsmen.     Deer  are  numerous, 
and  Whatcom  Lake  famous  for  its  trout  fishing. 

Returning  to  Seattle,  I  proceeded  via  San  Juan  Island,  to 
British  Columbia. 


»j,,?-.!ir'f-;; 


1 


i! 


1 


BRITISH    COLUMBIA. 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA  is  a  vast  region,  extending  from 
tlie  49th  parallel  of  latitude  more  than  700  miles  north  to 
the  60th,  and  from  the  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  on 
the  east,  400  miles  west  to  the  Pacific,  containing  341,515 
square  miles,  or  218,435,200  acres,  a  country  nearly  three 
times  as  large  as  England,  Ireland,  Scotland  and  Wales  com- 
bined. It  is  traversed  lengthwise  by  two  great  mountain 
I'anges,  the  Rockies  and  the  Cascades,  about  250  miles 
apart,  the  former  reaching  an  elevation  of  9000  and  the  lat- 
ter of  6000  feet.  The  Columbia  and  the  Fraser,  the  second 
and  third  largest  rivers  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  rise  within  the 
Province,  and  with  the  Skeena,  Nass,  Stickeen,  and  innu- 
merable other  streams,  drain  its  western  slope.  The  inte- 
rior is  well  watered  by  numerous  rivers  and  creeks,  and 
thousands  of  lakes  and  springs.  Parallel  to  the  mainland, 
and  at  a  distance  of  from  three  to  twenty  miles  therefrom, 
extends  Vancouver  Island  for  over  250  miles.  The  shores 
of  the  mainland  and  of  Vancouver,  and  the  intervening 
waters,  embrace  the  most  w^onderful  collection  of  inlets, 
sounds,  harbors,  straits,  channels  and  islands  to  be  found 
upon  the  planet.  British  Columbia,  in  common  with  the 
whole  Pacific  Coast,  possesses  two  distinct  climates.  Along 
the  west  coast,  even  as  far  north  as  latitude  53"-,  the  mean 
winter  temperature  is  about  42°;  the  annual  rainfall  aver- 
aging from  45  inches  at  Victoria,  to  75  inches  at  Fort  Simp- 
son, 630  miles  north.  In  the  interior  the  climate  is  much 
drier,  the  entire  precipitation  ranging  from  10  to  20  inches; 
the  mean  summer  temperature  being  about  75^^,  and  the  win- 
ter 10°  above.  North  of  latitude  51  the  winters  are  severe, 
but  the  snowfall  moderate,  except  in  the  higher  altitudes. 
This  section  is  not  subject  to  the  terrible  blizzards  which 
prevail  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  tbe  coldest  weather 
usually  being  perfectly  calm  and  clear.  Though  mountains 
and  forests  cover  a  considerable  portion  of  its  sui'faeo,  there 


— 


I  I 


! 


986 


niilTlsn   COLUMBIA. 


are  very  extensive  arena  excellently  adapted  to  stock  raising 
and  agriculture.  The  great  natural  resources  of  the  Prov- 
ince are  minerals,  coal,  fish,  timber,  grazing  and  furs.  Al- 
though there  are  millions  of  acrc^  .  yet  untouched  by 
human  foot,  the  discoveries  aiuable  mineral  deposits 

already  made  are  immi  j...  Hor  gold  fields  are  among  the 
most  extensive  and  richest  in  the  world;  coal  underlies  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  acres;  there  are  mountain  masses 
and  islands  of  iron,  and  rich  mines  of  silver,  copper  and 
other  precious  metals. 

The  principal  cities,  towns  and  settlements  in  British 
Columbia,  are  Victoria,  Esquimalt,  Saanich,  Cowichan,  Na- 
naimo,  Wellington,  Comox,  Fort  Rupert  and  Sooke,  on 
Vancouver  Island;  New  Westminster,  Port  Moody,  Moody- 
ville,  Hastings,  Granville,  Langley,  Sumass,  Chilliwhack, 
Hope,  Emory,  Yale,  Lvtton,  Lillooet,  Cache  Creek,  Cook's 
Ferry,  Clinton,  Lake  La  Hache,  Soda  Creek,  Quesuelle, 
Stanley,  Barkervilie,  Savona's  Ferry,  Kamloops,  Tranquille, 
Grand  Prairie,  Salmon  River,  Spallumcheen,  Okanagan, 
Mission,  Cherry  Cieek,  Similkaraeen,  Port  Essington,  Riv- 
ers' Lilet,  Metlakathla,  Fort  Simpson  and  Cassiar,  on  the 
Mainland,  containing  altogether  about  50,000  inhabitants. 

VIC/l'i)KIA,  the  chief  city  and  capital  of  British  Co- 
lumbia, occT  ;)ies  a  magnificent  situation  on  the  south  shore 
of  VaiK:r/er  Island,  about  60  miles  from  the  Pacific,  and 
750  noith  of  San  Francisco.  Its  immediate  surroundings 
are  charmingly  picturesque,  embracing  a  beautiful  harbor 
and  inlet,  pine  and  oak  covered  shores  and  rolling  hills,  with 
green  forests  of  fir  and  pine-clad  mountains  in  the  near 
background.  The  distant  view  is  one  of  exceeding  gran- 
deur, comprising  the  loftiest  peaks  of  the  Olympic  and  Cas- 
cade Mountains.  A  person  unfamiliar  with  the  marvelous 
progress  of  civilization  in  the  new  world,  surveying  its  busy 
marts  of  trade,  ships  of  commerce  laden  with  exports  for 
the  most  distant  ports,  numerous  manufactiu'ing  industries, 
well  graded  streets  and  good  public  and  private  buildings, 
would  scarcely  believe  that  all  these  things  are  the  creation 
of  a  little  more  than  20  j'enrs,  and  that  only  a  generation  has 


the 


PARTiv.         p^jjg^  Columbia 

, HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE  RESORTS. 

VICTORIA   ADVERTISEMENTS. 

For  the  Best  Hotel  Accommodations  go  to  the  Occidental 

Hy  Wm.  JonHen,  corner  Wharf  and  Jolinaon  strMtfi, 

Auctioneers  and  Commission  Agents,  '^* ^' ^  ^^^  whw^i'treet. 

RnnUinn    RiieinACQ     OABESCHK,  GREEN  4  CO.,  GOVERNMENT  BT..  OP- 

oanKmg   ousmess,        poHite  Po«t office. 

Rnnl    AND  JOH  PRINTING  BY  STEAM.  BOOK  BINDING,  PAPER  RULING 
DUUIV  Etc,    Munroe  Miller,  JolinHon  street,  near  Broad. 

Boots  and  Shoes    •*•  maynard,  cor.  johnson  and  douglab  sts. 

Cigar  Manufacturers  and  Wholesalers,  '^^Sent a^^t.**"^" 
Chinese  General  Merchandise,  kwong^lee  *  co.. cormorant 

Drugs  and  Chemicals,  '""""^^  »hotbolt  johnson  btrebt. 

rinnAo      <'ITY  HODHE,  WM.  WILSON  4  CO.,  GOVERNMENT  STREET. 
UOOQS,  (EstabliHhed  1861). 

(WELLS,   FARGO  4. CO.)   GARE8CHE,   GREEN  4  CO.,  GOVERN. 


Dry 
Express, 


ment  street,  opposite  Post  Office. 


Pcinnt/  (innAo  «*LA88.  CHINA  AND  CROCKERYWARE,  (LONDON  BAZAAR) 
railty    UUUUb,       ThoB.  Carrington, GoTemment  Bti«et. 

Furnishing  Goods,  ^Vtidp^stTffi^ce.^^^^^"*'^^'^' «^«^'«^- 
Grorerips   ^^ufelder  4  robs,  government  street. 

Hard  warp    ^kllowb  4  prior,  government  street. 

Hair  Dressing  and  Baths,  «r^nt?#K^ce!^«^^«^'^''^  «'^- 
Indian  Curios.  J-i|AAC8„*^i:E-J-8ALMON4co.ANDj.GUTMAN, 

InSUranOP      ^^"^'  ^^^^  ^^^  marine-hall  4  GOEPEL,  YATES  8T. 

Livery  and  H^cks,  ^-  °-  '^°^'^^^'  ^^'^^^^^  "''• 

MpatS     ^^^  VOLKENBDRGH  BROS.,  GOVERNMENT  BT. 

Photographic  Views,  «•  fi^st^^^^-  "««^« •^«^^«^''  ^"^  ^«™- 

PiQnnc  ORGANS  AND  MUSICAL  IN6TRUMENTS-J.  BAGNALL  4  CO.  GOV- 
riallUo,       em  ment  street. 

Real  Estate  Bargains,  "•  i^owenberg,  govern^i^nt  st. 
Shipping  Agents,  hall  4  goepel.  yates  st. 
Ship  Chandlery,  ^^'"^'^  ''•^'^"^^^  *  ^'''  "^^"^^  '^' 

At  Esauimalt    'towards  hotel- p.  o.,  livery  and  hacks. 

«|2°>  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.  Maynard,  of  Victoriiu  the  leadinj;  photographic  artists  of  the 
*^  North-west  coast,  hafe  the  most  completo  collection  of  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska  views  extant.  They  havo  betm  taken  by  Mr.  Maynard,  personally,  for  which 
purpose  he  has  traveled  extensively  through  the  interior,  and  along  the  coast  as  far 
north  as  Portage  Bay,  within  thirty-two  nulee  of  the  Yukon. 


f^^g^^^^^^am^smmmam 


riCTORTA. 


297 


I 


% 


passed  since  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  first  planted  the 
English  flag  on  these  shores.  But  this  is  only  the  beginning 
as  compared  with  the  brilliant  future  which  awaits  Victoria. 
The  resources  of  the  vast  region  to  which  she  holds  the 
commercial  key,  are  only  in  the  bud  of  their  development. 
That  she  has  reached  her  present  status  while  laboring  un- 
der the  great  disadvantages  of  extreme  remoteness  from  the 
centers  of  population  and  demand  for  her  products,  excess- 
ively costly  transportation,  shows  not  only  their  enormous 
extent  and  richness,  but  what  may  reasonably  be  expected 
when  all  railway  communication  shall  be  established  with 
the  East  and  the  country  opened  to  immigration  and  cap- 
ital. 

Victoria  is  provided  with  all  the  concomitants  of  the 
progressive  cities  of  our  times — good  religious  and  educa- 
tional advantiiges,  three  newspapers,  the  Colonist,  Standard, 
and  Evening  Post,  a  public  library,  and  the  usual  benevolent 
orders,  an  able  and  active  Board  of  Trade,  gas  and  water 
works,  efficient  police  and  fire  departments,  a  beautiful  pub- 
lic park,  and  a  well  ordered  government. 

VICTORIA  AS  A  SUMMER  RESORT  FOR  TOURISTS  AND  HEALTH  SEEKERS. 

Nat'ore  has  pwardeu  to  V  l.-^toria  the  most  attractive  and 
interesting  si'uation  and  surroundings  of  any  city  on  the 
north  Pacific  Coast.  Possessing  a  most  enjoyable,  invig- 
orating and  healthful  climato  she  lies  central  amidst  the 
sublimest  scenery  in  the  new  -A^crld.  The  waters  of  Puget 
Sound  and  of  the  Inside  Passtage  to  Alaska,  between  Van- 
couver and  the  Mainland,  embrace  more  that  is  unique  and 
wonderful  in  nature,  than  can  be  found  on  any  equal  area  of 
the  earth's  surface.  I  can  scarcely  conceive  of  a  grander 
panorama  of  mountains  and  inland  waters,  forests  and 
islands,  than  thataflforded  from  the  summit  of  Beacon  Hill, 
her  favorite  Park  resort.  Her  drives  are  unsurpassed,  both 
in  respect  to  the  excellence  of  the  roads,  and  the  beauty  of 
the  scenery  through  which  they  pass.  The  three  miles  from 
Victoria  to  the  fine  harbor  of  Euquimalt,  with  its  pretty 
village,  off-lying  fleet  of  ships,  Graving  Dock,  etc.,  is  a  de- 
lightful drive  or  walk;  so  is  the  one  to  t}ie  Gorge,  a  pic- 


' 


298 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


turosque,  romantic  spot,  situated  about  the  same  distance 
from  the  city.  It  may  also  be  visited  by  a  small  boat  througli  a 
charming  inlet,  extending  from  Victoria  almost  to  Esqui- 
malt.      To  Cadboro   Bay,    returning    by  the   Government 
House,  Race  Course  and  Beacon  Hill,  a  distance  of  about 
eight  miles,  affords  a  splendid  excursion.     Excellent  mac- 
adamized roads  lead  from  three  to  tventy  miles  into  the 
country,  in  all  directions.     Victoria  is  cei)tii(l  in  one  of  the 
best  fields  for  hunting  and  fishing,  "i  f       '^    I  have  any 
knowledge.    Deer  and  other  large  gf     n  ;  •  aund  on  Van- 
couver Island,  and  within  a  short  distanco  of  the  city.     All 
kinds  of  waterfowl  are  numerous,  and  the  utreams  and  lakes 
are  full  of  trout.     It  is  only  a  few  hours'  ride  by  steamer, 
amidst  magnificent  scenery,  to  the  most  important  places  in 
the  Province,  New  Westminster,  Port  Moody  and  Nanaimo; 
and  to  the  principal  towns  of  Pugot  Sound— Port  Town- 
send,  Seattle,  Tacoma  and   Olympia.     Steamers  also  run 
among  the  beautiful  islands  of  the  Archipelago  De  Haro, 
and  of  the  San  Juan  group,  touching  at  their  chief  points  of 
interest.     Upon  the  completion  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  and 
Northern  Pacific  Railways,  Victoria  will  bo  throng,  d  with 
tourists  and  health-seekers,  from  all  parts  of  the  Kthf'i. 

EXCURSIONS   FROM  VICTORIA. 

Trip  No.  1. — Ft'om  Vuinrui  to  Yale,  the  head  of  naviji'  :  >u  on 
the  Praser  River,  toUh  Capt.  John  Irving,  on  tfie  ,,-^'.ar-'i 
R.  P.  Rithet.  T hrofi(jh  t he  Archipelo(/o  De  Haro,  Photiper 
Pass,  Gulf  of  Georgia,  and  South  Arm  of  Frac  r  River. 
Magnijicent  scenery,  salmon  fishcrH]s  and  cn\neries,  rich 
delta,  and  bottom  hinds.  The  toivns  of  Ladner\  Landing, 
New  Westm'nslei',  Mission,  Maple  Ridge,  Laitglei/,  Matsqni^ 
Sumas,  C'hillitvhach,  Harrison  River,  Hoy  •,  Emory,  and 
Yale-B50  7niles. 

VICTORIA,  the  beautiful  capital  city  of  Q".  ii< wince,  is 
the  headquarters  and  starting-point  of  all  tlio  principal 
steamboat  and  other  uno,  of  tansportation  through  it.  Of 
those,  the  Pion^^er  1  vie  of  st'  r «,.  I's  to  the  head  of  navigation 
on  th(!  Eraser  River,  io  r»v,,  of  fjio  most  in)]mrtant.  It  com- 
prises three  boats,  the  V/m.  Irving,  R.  P.  Rithet  and  Reli- 


MB 


m\    ■• 


•(5?'. 


THE  OliD  "BKAVEB,"  THE  PIONEEH  STEAMER  OF  THE  PACItlC. 
(From  Photo  by  R.  Maj:nard.} 


!! 


GOVERNMENT  HOUSft. 
(From  the  B,  C.  Directory.)  (Reeld<3nce  of  the  Qoremor  of  the  Ptovin<»> 


"^ 


VICTOliJA. 


299 


ance,  owned  by  Capt.  John  Irving  and  others,  which  run  in 
conjunction  with  the  Hudson  Bay  steamers  Princess  Louise, 
Enterprise  and  Otter. 

I  took  passage  on  the  R.  P.  Rithet,  Capt.  John  Irving, 
one  of  the  finest  boats  upon  the  waters  of  the  northwest 
coast.  She  is  a  new,  powerful  stern-wheeler,  200  feet  long, 
39  feet  wide,  816  tons  burthen,  accommodating  250  passen- 
gers, and  having  a  speed  of  13  miles  an  hour.  Her  cabins 
are  elegantly  finished  and  furnished,  state-rooms  large,  and 
table  excellent. 

The  usual  time  to  Yale  —175  miles  from  Victoria — is  trona 
18  to  22  hours  on  the  upward,  and  12  hours  on  the  downward 
trip,  the  diifereuce  being  occasioned  by  the  strong  currents 
encountered  both  in  the  straits  and  river,  in  some  places 
from  seven  to  eight  miles  an  hour. 

No  passage  of  equal  distance  in  the  world  affords  a  suc- 
cession of  more  magnificent  natural  views. 

Sailing  out  of  the  fine  land-locked  harbor  of  Victoria 
into    the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,    on   a  clear  day,   pre- 
sents a  panorama  of  indescribable  beauty  and   sublimity. 
The  grandest  mountains  outline  the  horizon  on  every  hand — 
rising  5000  feet  from  Vancouver,  the  snow-covered  Olympian 
Peaks  8000  feet — and  sweeping  east  and  northward  along  the 
rugged  Cascades,  the  eye  is  arrested  by  the  white  crowning 
peaks  of  Mount  Baker,  10,800  feet  above  the  sea.     The  in- 
tervening landscape  is  exceedingly  picturesque  and  charming. 
Sailing  northward,   the   immediate   shores  of  Vancouver, 
faced  with  a  sea-wall  of  rounded  trappean   rock,   sparsely 
wooded  with  pine  antl  oak,  receding  gradually,  are  inter- 
spersed with  pleasant  green  slope**  and  park-like  openings. 
The  largo,  conspicuous  mansion  situated  xipon  the  command- 
ing eminence  in  the  eastern  suburbs  of  Victoria  is  the  Gov- 
ernment House,  now  occupied  by   His  Honor  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Cornwall.     The  Governor  recently  kindly  showed 
rao  through  the  fine  grounds,   which   afford  a  most  mag- 
nificent   view  of  the  incomparably   grand  scenery  of   this 
region.     Looking  into  Cadboro  Bay — three  miles  from  the 
city  opposite  the  small,  rocky  islands  of  Discovery  and  Chat- 
ham, a  fine  little  harbor  of  refuge — a  number  of  well-im- 


\ 


Inoar 


300 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


proved  farms  are  visible.  Driven  in  here  by  a  storm  in 
crossing  from  San  Juan  Island  to  Victoria,  I  was  surprised 
to  find  vegetation  more  advanced  than  in  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington, which  I  had  just  left.  Several  varieties  of  flowers 
bloom  here  throughout  the  winter. 

Approaching  the  entrance  to  the  Canal  De  Haro,  S   i 
Juan  Island,  to  the  northeast,  first  engages  the  attention,    xt 
is  the  largest  of  the  San  Juan  group,  comprising  Oicas,  Lo- 
pez, Blakeley,  Decatur,  Waldrou,  Shaws,  Stuart,  Speiden, 
Henry  and  others,  being  13  miles  long,  with  an  average  width 
of  about  four  miles.     It  acquired  histori  al  importance  as 
disputed    territory,   having  been    jointly  occupied  by  the 
English  and  American  forces,  from  1858  to  1873,  when  the 
boundary  question  was  finally  settled.  The  white-faced  cliffs 
of  the  extensive  limestone  quarry  of  McCurdy's  is  a  promi- 
nent land-mark  on  the  Southern  slope.      Lying  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  group,  and  comprising  the  Archipelago  De  Haro, 
are  numerous  islands,  belonging  to  British  Columbia.     Of 
these,    Salt  Spring,    Galiano,     Saturua,     Pender,    Sidney, 
Moresby  and  Mayue  are  the  most  important.     The  main 
channel,  usually  taken  by  deep-draught  vessels,  runs  between 
Sau  Juan,  Stuart  and  Waldron,  on  the  east,   and  Sidney, 
Moresby,  Pender  and  Saturna  on  the  west;  but  our  route, 
that  of  most  river  steamers,  lay  between  Sidney,  James, 
Moresby,  Portland,  Pender,  Provost,   Mayue  and  Galiano 
Islands,   reaching  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  through  Active  or 
Plumper  Pass.      These  islands  are  uniformly  rock-bound, 
with  basalt,  sandstone  and  congloitoerate  formations,  inter- 
spersed with  lignite,  rugged  and  irregular  in  outline,  thickly 
wooded  with  fir  and  spruce,  and  rising  from  500  to  1500  feet 
above  the  sea.      Their  climate  is  healthy  and  uniform,  rain- 
fall not  excessive,  and  great  extremes  of  heat  or  cold  are 
unknown.     The  forests  abound  with  deer,  otter,  coon  and 
mink,  and  the  surrounding  waters  with  salmon,  halibut,  cod 
and  other  excellent  fish.    There  are  no  beasts  of  prey  or  poi- 
sonous reptiles.      Approaching  the   pass,   a  steam  sealing 
schooner    and   three    large    Chinook    canoes,    filled    with 
Indians,  were  sailing  northward.  Their  huts  were  occasionally 
seen  upon  the  shores.      A  considerable  settlement  of  whites 


ACBOSS   THE  GULF  OF  GEORGIA. 


301 


occupy  a  pleasant  green  slope  on  Vancouver  Island,  nt  Co- 
wichan. 

Then  we  seemed  to  be  advancing  against  a  mountain  wall 
of  solid  rock,  and  just  as  we  were  wondering  most  where  we 
could  be  going,  two  channels  suddenly  appear  -  the  left  lead- 
ing on  to  Nanaimo,  the  right  to  Plumper  Pass — not  exceed- 
ing two  or  three  hundred  yards  wide  in  places,  and  about 
two  miles  long,  to  the  Gulf  of  Georgia. 

Emerging  from  the  pass,  we  headed  for  the  delta  of 
the  Fraser  Biver,  visible  in  the  distance.  The  Gulf 
of  Georgia  is  from  nine  to  twenty  miles  in  Avidth  and 
120  miles  in  length.  When  opposite  Point  Roberts 
the  boundary  lino  between  British  Columbia  and  the 
United  States,  a  wide  pathway  cut  through  the  tim- 
ber, entirely  across,  is  plainly  seen  from  the  steamer  with 
the  naked  eye.  Just  before  entering  the  south  arm  of  the 
Fraser  Biver  we  passed  the  steamer  Beaver,  which  Capta:n 
Irving  said  is  the  oldest  on  the  Pacific  coast,  having  come 
around  the  Horn  in  1835.  She  was  still  doing  good  service 
for  her  owners,  the  British  Columbia  Towing  Co. 

The  Fraser  Biver,  the  third  largest  stream  flowing  into 
the  Pacific  upon  the  continent  of  North  America,  rising  in 
the  Bocky  Mountains,  drains,  with  its  tributaries,  an  area 
estimated  at  125,000  square  miles,  reaching  from  the  ll8th 
to  the  125th  degree  of  longitude.  The  intervening  country 
embraces  the  greatest  diversity  of  physical  features,  cli- 
mates, soils,  natural  resources  and  adaptations,  east  of  the 
Cascade  Bange,  mountains,  rolling  foothills  and  elevated 
plateaus,  covered  with  bunch  grass,  sage  brush,  plains,  for- 
est and  timber  lands,  with  occasional  prairie  openings,  are 
its  prevailing  characteristics. 

It  is  rich  in  gold  and  other  valuable  minerals,  contains 
extensive  stock  ranges  of  unsurpassed  excellence,  raid  large 
areas  of  arable  lands  excellently  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
cereals,  roots  and  fruits  generally.  Irrigation  is  necessary 
over  a  considerable  portion  of  this  region.  The  summers 
are  hot,  the  nights  cool,  and  sometimes  frosty  in  the  valleys 
and  in  the  elevated  plateaus;  the  winters  dry  and  not  unfre- 
quently  severe,  though  the  snow-fall,  except  in  the  moun- 
tains, seldom  exceeds  two  feet  in  depth. 


302 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


CFOssing  the  Cascades,  its  western  slopes  and  valleys, 
embrace  the  greatest  variety  of  climates  and  range  of  pro- 
ductions, varying  according  to  altitude  and  local  surface  con- 
figurations. 

Forests  of  Douglas  pine,  cedar,  spruce  and  hemlock 
cover  a  considerable  portion  of  this  region,  though  there  are 
extensive  bodies  of  excellent  grazing  and  agricultiaral  land. 
But  no  general  description  can  convey  correct  impressions 
concerning  or  do  justice  to  this  region. 

The  climatic  conditions  existing  in  the  same  latitudes 
on  the  Atlantic  coast  afford  no  guide  in  judging  of  those 
found  there.  The  warm  Asiatic  ocean  currents  sweei)ing 
along  the  western  coast  and  through  the  Gulf  of  Georgia, 
modify  the  temperature  in  a  marked  degree. 

It  is  one  of  the  healthiest  portions  of  the  globe.  Even 
the  river  bottoms  and  deltas  are  free  from  all  malarial 
fevers. 

THE  UICH  AND  EXTENSIVE  DELTAS  OP  THE  FRASEU  KIVEIl. 

The  delta  lands  of  the  Fraser  are  more  extensive  than 
those  of  any  other  i*iver  flowing  into  the  Pacific.  Advancing 
up  the  South  Arm,  a  broad,  rapid,  muddy  stream,  the  tide 
lauds  stretch  away  for  many  miles  on  either  hand,  extending 
from  Boundary  Bay  on  the  east,  to  Point  Gray  on  the  west, 
a  distance  of  13  miles,  embracing  over  100,000  acres  suscep- 
tible of  cultivation.  Enriched  by  the  silt  and  alluvial  de- 
posits of  ages,  brought  down  from  the  plains  and  mountain 
slopes  of  the  interior,  they  are  famous  for  their  inexhaustible 
fertility.  They  generally  require  dyking  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  feet,  for  protection  agaiubt  high  tides,  though 
escaping,  almost  altogether,  any  damaging  effects  from  the 
spring  floods. 

THE   SALMON   FISHEUIES  AND  CANNEItlKS. 

Although  salmon  fishing  and  canning  has  been  an  impor- 
tant industry  on  the  Pacific  coast  since  1866,  and  during  the 
last  12  years  has  grown  to  immense  proportions,  it  is  only  a 
few  years  since  the  establishment,  by  Ewen  it  Co.,  of  the 
first  cannery  on  the  Fraser.  Now  there  are  13 — the  Phti'nix, 
English  &  Co.,    British   American    Packing    Co.,    British 


mam 


eys, 

pro- 

cou- 

ilock 
e  are 
lautl. 
siouB 

Ltudos 

those 

jcpiug 

jorgia, 

Even 
lalarial 

EK. 

ve  tliau 
vanciiig 
tlie  tiilo 
:teucUng 
,he  west, 
i  susccp- 
Livial  tle- 
nouutaiu 
liaustible 
hoiglit  of 
s,  though 
from  the 


an  irapor- 
auring  the 
t  is  only  a 
Co.,  of  the 
lie  rhtt'uix, 
o.,   British 


NJiW    WESTMINSTER. 


303 


Uuioii,  Adair  &  Co.,  Dolta,  Fiudlay,  Durham  it  Brudie, 
British  Columbia  Packiug  Co.,  Ewen  &  Co.,  LaidUiw  &  Co., 
Stamlard  Co..  H'.iigh  &  Sou,  and  the  liichmoud  Packing  Co. , 
their  aggregate  annual  product  amounting  to  not  less  than 
230,000  cases.  The  fish  of  Northern  waters  are  of  su])erior 
quality,  and  their  ranges  for  hatching  and  feeding  so  exten- 
sive and  excellent  that  the  salmon,  especially  if  protected  by 
the  Government,  will  constitute  one  of  the  great  permanent  re- 
sources of  this  region.  Before  proceeding  far  up  the  Eraser, 
we  meet  the  advance  of  the  numerous  fleet  of  salmon  fishing 
boats  which  throng  the  river  for  a  distance  of  15  milys  from 
its  mouth.  They  are  from  22  to  24  feet  in  length,  and  from 
five  to  six  feet  wide,  each  furnished  with  a  gill  net,  made  of 
strong  linen,  from  150  to  200  fathoms  long,  and  about  40 
half-inch  meshes  deep,  and  manned  by  two  Indians. 


SI 


3 


8 

i 


NEW  WESTMINSTER,  the  principal  city  of  the  main- 
laud,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Crown  Colony,  occupies  a 
very  pleasant  and  commanding  situation  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Eraser,  about  15  miles  from  the  mouth  and  75  miles 
from  Victoria.  The  site  was  chosen  by  Col.  Moody,  in  1858, 
being  then  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  enormous  cedars, 
some  of  which  were  12  feet  in  diameter.  Hon.  J.  W. 
Armstrong,  late  Provincial  Secretary,  erected  the  first  house 
— a  store  and  dwelliug — in  March,  1859.  This  gentleman 
related  to  me  how  it  came  by  its  present  name.  Origi- 
nally called  Queen  or  Queeusborough,  a  dispute  having 
arisen  between  Gov.  Douglas  and  C>  Moody  as  to  which 
should  prevail,  the  matter  was  submiiiud  for  settlement  to 
Her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria,  who  decided  against  both,  by 
substituting  New  Westminster. 

It  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  great  resources  of  the  Province, 
surrounded  by  the  most  extensive  and  richest  bodies  of  agri- 
cultural lands,  with  large  tracts  of  the  finest  timber  near  at 
hand,  and  in  the  midst  of  fisheries  so  enormously  productive 
that  13  canning  establishments  within  a  radius  of  12  miles, 
will  put  up  over  12,000,000  cans  of  salmon,  alone,  the  present 
season.  Vessels  drawing  15  feet  of  water  reach  New  West- 
minster in  safety  at  all  times,  and  find  good  anchorage  and 


804 


JJlUTlSn  aoLUMUlA. 


wharfage,  and  Port  Moody,  on  Burrard's  Inlet,  tho  best  and 
mo8t  commodious  harbor  along  these  vhores,  selected  us  the 
termiuL's  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Bailruad,  is  only  six  miles 
distant. 

The  city,  now  containing  a  populatiou  of  about  3000,  is 
in  a  very  prosperous  condition,  but  scarcely  realizes  the 
future  which  awaits  it  upon  the  establishment  of  .railroad 
communication  with  the  interior  and  the  East,  the  influx  of 
population,  and  the  consequent  development  of  the  great 
resources  of  this  region.  Besides  many  well-built  stores, 
residences,  and  hotels,  it  contains  the  Provincial  Peniten- 
tiary and  Asylum,  a  public  hospital,  and  good  church  and 
school  buildings.  A  fine  post-office  is  in  course  of  erection. 
A  free  reading-room  and  library  is  well  susf'  d.  There 
lire  two  local  newspapers— the //r»7js/t  Colun  vid  Main- 

larul  Guardian — well  conducted  and  supported.  At  the  hos- 
pital, Dr.  Adam  Jackson,  the  courteous  and  efficient  Super- 
intendent, after  conducting  me  through  the  several  commo- 
dious and  sunny  wards  showed  me,  in  the  fine  flower  garden 
attached,  a  sweetpea  vine  over  seven -aud-a-half  feet  in  height, 
and  close  by,  vegetables  cf  surprising  growth.  Rheumatism 
and  paralysis  are  the  most  prevalent  diseases  among  his 
patients.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  just  after  pay-day  among 
the  canneries,  the  city  was  full  of  Indians,  representing  all 
the  various  Mainland  and  Island  tribes,  living  in  canvas  tents 
and  huts,  dressed  in  every  conceivable  mixture  of  barbarous 
and  civilized  costume,  one  of  the  most  interesting  collections 
of  human  creatures  ever  seen  on  the  eartli. 

These  northern  tribes  are  generally  good  workers,  and 
earn,  during  the  summer,  considerable  sums  of  money, 
which  they  spend  freely  upon  whatever  most  pleases  their 
fancy.  Many  of  their  purchases,  which  the  traders  said  in- 
cluded almost  everything,  were  exceedingly  amusing,  espec- 
ially in  the  line  of  dress  goods.  Sometimes  a  prosperous 
buck  will  jump  from  a  barbarous  into  a  civilized  costume  at 
a  bound,  and  parade  the  streets  iu  a  black  suit  and  white  silk 
necktie,  and  everything,  except  habits,  to  correspond.  One 
Indian  was  seen  proudly  leading  his  little  daughter,  whom 
lie  had  gaily  dressed  in  white,  with  a  blue  silk  sash,  a  pretty 


LANULEY.  305 

wliittiwuiHtiindaHilk  parasol  in  liund,  but  bare-footed  and  bare- 
legged. Though  there  were  U[)\\ard8  of  a  thousand  Indians 
in  the  city,  I  saw  no  disorderly  conduct  among  tliem.  I  am 
indebted  to  Captain  A.  Peole,  a  prominent  druggist  and 
apothecary  of  New  Westminster,  and  Meteorolc^ical  Ob- 
server for  the  Dominion  Government  and  Signal  Officer  for 
the  United  States,  for  the  following  valuable  notes  of  the 
mean  temperature  and  rainfall  at  that  place  f  >r  a  period  of 
six  years : 

Mvau  Tl'Iiii>.    Hlglicst  'I'oinp.    Lowent  Tomp.    liainfaU. 

January  34.9  57  7  7.20 

FeVmiary 37.9  57  10  6.01 

March 40.3  05  18  0.77 

April 48.1  74  20  2.85 

May 54.9  82  34  3.34 

June 58.3  87  38  2.33 

July 63.8  92  45  1.66 

AugUHt 61.9  84  44  2.10 

September 56.9  81  42  3.68 

October 48.9  75  20  5.83 

November 40.6  59  14  7.65 

December 36.2  54  8  7.87 

Between  New  Westminster  and  Yale,  a  distance  of  109 
miles,  the  mail  steamers  not  unfrequently  make  35  landings, 
including  stoppages  at  railway  construction  camps.  Maple 
Ridge,  12  miles;  Langley,  17;  Riverside,  31;  Matsqui,  93; 
Sumas,  41;  Chilliwhack,  47;  Hope,  85,  and  Emory,  85  miles 
above,  being  the  most  important  places-. 

LANGLEY,  though  only  a  small  village,  is  the  oldest 
settlement  on  the  river,  having  been  laid  out  for  a  town  in 
1858.  There  is  a  considerable  tract  of  rich,  arable  land  a 
short  distance  back,  of  which  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
own  about  a  1000  acres.  Though  the  area,  susceptible  of 
cultivation  alcng  the  Lower  Eraser,  is  comparatively  limited, 
it  comprises,  in  the  aggregate,  over  160,000  acres,  excluding 
the  deltas. 

At  Matsqu'  there  is  a  prairie  opening  three  or  four  miles 
square,  and  on  the  right  bank  opposite,  north  of  the  Mission, 
Burton's  Prairie,  containing  over  3000  acres.  Sumas  Prairie 
is  estimated  to  contain  25,000  acres  of  farming  lands.  Sur- 
rounding 


■f 


306 


BlilTlSU  COLUMhlA. 


\\ 


CHILLIWHACK,  a  village  of  about  25  houses,  on  the 
left  bank,  there  is  a  large  body  of  level,  lightly  timbered, 
alder,  maple  and  pine  wooded  bottoms,  enclosed  by  a  graud 
amphitheatre  of  mountains.  The  soil  is  a  deep  clay,  allu- 
vial, exceedingly  productive.  Mr.  A.  Pierce  told  mo  that 
the  lessees  of  his  farm,  situated  three  milts  back  from  tlie 
landing,  will  clear  $2000  this  season  from  48  acres  under 
cultivation.  Though  comprising  the  principal  farming  set- 
tlement on  the  river,  these  lands  are  only  about  half  occu- 
pied. In  common  with  most  of  those  described,  they  are 
subject  to  occasional  overflows,  sometimes  quite  disastrous. 
The  Provisional  Government  has  undertaken  to  protect  them 
by  dyking,  and  will  doubtless  succeed. 

For  60  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Harrison  Eiver  the 
Fraser  has  little  valley  proper,  the  mountains  rising  ab- 
ruptly from  two  to  five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  their 
rugged,  furrowed  sides  sparsely  covered  with  Douglas  fir, 
and  sharply  defined  peaks,  with  remnants  of  the  winter 
snows.  There  are  occasional  slopes,  benclies  and  bottoms 
of  small  extent,  occupied,  though  the  general  aspect  of  the 
country,  outside  the  small  settlements,  is  a  wild,  unbroken 
wilderness. 

This  was  tho  field  of  the  great  Fraser  River  gold  excite- 
mens  of  24  years  ago,  when  miners  rushed  in  from  all  parts 
of  the  world,  encountering  untold  hardships  and  dangers  to 
share  in  its  rich  Ireasures.  The  best  diggings  were  found 
upon  the  lower  benches  and  bars  of  the  river — the  Ameri- 
can, Murderer's,  Texas,  Emory,  Hill's,  Sailor's,  Boston, 
Kanaka,  Fargo's,  Chapman's,  Wellington  and  Foster's  being 
the  richest.  Scores  of  bravo  fellows  lost  their  lives  \n 
attempt'ng  to  reach  them,  i'v  canoes  and  small  boats, 
through  the  terrible  rapids  of    ae  awful  canons  iutervoniiig. 

Between  Cornish  and  American  Bars,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Coquhalla  River,  we  reached  the  sniidl  village  of 


HOPE,  charmingly  situated  upon  a  high  bench  ut  tl-.e 
base  of  the  mountains.  A  trail  leads  from  thence  1(50  miles 
northeastward,  into  the  rich  Simiikameen  and  Okanagan 
country.     A  silver  mine,  said  to  be  very  rich,  has  been  (lis- 


SALMON    IWXmNU    EXTRAOBDINARY. 


307 


covered  upou  the  side  of  the  mountain  within  sight,  Ui)on 
the  devehjpmeut  of  whicli  great  uutici[)ations  are  based.  I 
was  informed  by  Mr.  B.  C.  Gleson,  Superintoudeut  of  the 
C.  P.  II.  11.  powder  works,  that  tlierc  are  good  openings  in 
the  upper  Skagit  Valley,  within  4.0  or  50  miles  of  Hope,  for 
30  or  40  families. 

SALMON  IIUNNINO  AND  CATCHING  EXTRAOUDINARY. 

T  have  read,  with  much  allowance,  account;  of  the  mul- 
titudes of  salmon  sometimes  seen  in  the  smaller  tributaries 
of  the  Umpqua,  Columbia  and  Fraser  Rivers,  but,  after 
what  I  witnessed  along  the  latter  streaiu,  am  prepared  to  be- 
lieve any  fish  story  within  the  limits  of  possibilities.  Arriv- 
ing at  Emory,  five  miles  below  Yale,  t  wo  young  men  from  San 
Francisco  reported  immense  numbers  of  salmon  at  the 
mouth  of  Emory  Creek,  a  small,  rapid  mountain  stream 
flowing  into  the  Fraser  just  above.  Going  there,  I  found  it 
packei?  so  full  in  places  that  I  counted,  while  standing  in 
one  position  upon  the  railroad  bridge,  over  400  different 
salmon.  Mentioning  the  matter  to  a  resident,  he  remarked : 
"Oh!  that's  nothing.  If  you  want  to  see  .salmon,  go  to  the 
next  creek  beyond."  Ileaching  there,  after  a  walk  of  about 
four  miles,  and  taking  a  central  position  upon  the  brid'jo 
crossing  it,  I  counted,  without  moviiig,  over  800  salmon. 
This  stream  plunges  down  the  mountain  side  with  a  fall  of 
probably,  loO  feet  within  a  mile  and  a  half,  being  from  five 
to  fifteen  yards  in  width.  For  a  distance  of  several  j-ods 
up  from  its  mouth,  lie  salmon  were  crowding  in  from  the 
muddy  Fraser,  i  j\v  again  rapidly  rising,  almost  as  thick  as 
they  couKl  swim,  aiul  in  the!)'  des))erate  efforts  to  ascend  the 
successive  falls  above,  presented  a  spectacle  never  before 
witnessed  by  the  oldest  native  settler.  Mr.  John  Wood- 
wortii,  who  has  lived  here  for  24  years,  said  he  never  heard 
of  (he  like.  The  sabnon  is  a  fish  of  extraordinary  strength 
and  agility,  and  is  said  to  jumi)  and  swim  up  i)erpendicular 
falls  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  in  height.  I  stood  upou  the 
bank  an  hour,  ai,d  watched  them  in  tlieir  desperate  strug- 
gles U)  luiike  the  i,scent  of  .several  of  lesser  size  within  sight. 
Of  hundreds  which  made  the  attempt,  only  a  few,  compara- 


308 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


tively,  succeeded,  the  rest  fell  back  exhausted,  splashing  and 
whirling  among  the  boulders.  Many  were  covered  with  great 
bruises,  some  had  lost  their  eyes,  a  few  lay  dead  upon  the 
shore,  others  were  dying,  and  all  seemed  nearly  worn  out. 
Stepping  close  to  a  pool  filled  with  them,  I  easily  caught 
two  in  my  hands,  which  offered  but  little  resistance.  Before 
leaving,  a  photographer,  Mr.  D.  R.  Judkius,  of  New  West- 
minster, arrived  and  took  two  views  of  the  remarkable 
scene.  Mr.  Daniel  Ashworth,  wife  and  family,  were  also 
present.  Reaching  Yale,  I  told  a  hotel-keeper  about  it, 
estin^ating  the  salmon  at  thousands.  "Thousands!"  he  ex- 
claimed, almost  with  indignation,  "Why,  there  are  millions 
of  them  now  running  up  the  Fraser  within  a  few  miles  of 
town. "  Getting  aboard  Mr.  Onderdonk's  construction  train 
I  rode  along  the  river,  15  miles,  to  the  end  of  the  track. 
Millions  was  probably  not  much  of  an  exaggeration,  for 
although  the  river  was  quite  muddy,  schools  of  salmon, 
numbering  thousands  each,  could  be  seen  from  the  platform 
of  the  cars,  at  short  intervals,  the  entire  distance.  The 
Indians  were  catching  and  drying  them  in  large  quantities. 
Standing  upon  the  edge  of  perpendicular  projecting  ledges, 
they  capture  the  largest  and  finest  specimens,  either  by 
me;ins  of  hooks  or  scoop-nets,  dress  them  upon  the  spot, 
and  hang  them  up  on  long  poks  to  dry  in  the  wind  and  sun. 
When  sufficiently  cured,  thoy  are  packed  in  caches  made 
from  cedar  shakes,  and  suspended  for  safe  keeping  among 
the  branches  of  trees,  from  20  to  50  feet  above  the  ground. 
It  is  the  opinion  of  those  familiar  with  the  habits  of  the 
salmon,  that  not  one  in  a  thousand  succeeds  in  depositing 
its  spawn,  and  that  if  hatching  places  wore  provided  upon 
thepe  streams,  and  protected,  that  they  could  scarcely  be 
exhausted,  under  proper  restrictions  as  to  catching  them. 

YALE,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Fraser  River,  a 
town  of  several  hundred  inhabitants  and  buildings,  is  situ- 
ated upon  a  narrow  bench,  surrounded  by  mountains  of 
striking  grandeur,  rising  precii)itously  thousands  of  feet 
among  the  (;louds.  In  the  early  days  of  the  gold  discoveries 
in  this  region,  Yale  presented  those  scenes  of  wild  dissipa- 


YALE. 


309 


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tion  and  reckless  extravagance  only  witnessed  in  great  and 
rich  mining  camps.  An  old  miner,  who  was  stopped  from 
working  his  claim  when  paying  from  $16  to  120  per  day,  be- 
cause encroaching  upon  the  city  front,  told  me  that  he  seldom 
cleaned  up  without  finding  gold  pieces  which  had  been 
dropped  from  the  overflowing  pockets  of  men  intoxicated  with 
liquor  and  excitement.  It  was  nothing  uncommon  in  those 
days  to  spend  $50  in  a  single  treat  around  at  the  bar.  There 
is  still  paying  placer  mining  on  the  river  bench  ojjposite, 
though  the  place  derives  its  main  support  from  the  construc- 
tion of  the  C.  P.  K.  R.,  traffic  with  the  interior,  and  through 
travel. 

THE  GRAND  SCENERY  OF  THE  CASCADE  MOUNTAINS. 

The  grandest  scenery  ou  the  Western  slope  of  the  conti- 
nent is  formed  by  the  passage  of  its  great  rivers  through  the 
Cascade  Mountains.  When  I  looked  with  wonder  and  ad- 
miration upon  the  stupendous  architecture  of  the  mountains 
through  which  the  Columbia  has  worn  her  way  by  the  flow 
of  unknown  ages,  I  thought  surely  this  scene  can  have  no 
parallel ;  but  ascending  the  Fraser  River,  tibove  Yale,  moun- 
tains just  as  rugged,  lofty,  and  precipitous,  present  their 
rocky  sides;  a  stream  as  deep,  swift,  and  turbulent,  rushes 
headlong  to  the  sea,  between  granite  walls  hundreds  of  feet  in 
height,  above  which  rise,  by  every  form  of  rocky  embattle- 
ment,  tower,  castle,  and  terraced  slope,  which  the  imagina- 
tion can  conceive,  the  snow-covered  siimraits  of  the  Cascade 
Range.  Great  broad,  deep  paths  have  been  worn  down  the 
mountain  sides  by  the  winter  avalanches;  crystal  streams 
come  bounding  over  their  narrow  rocky  beds,  sometimes 
leaping  hundreds  of  feet,  as  if  impatient  to  join  the  impetu- 
ous river  below,  enormous  rocks  stand  out  threateningly  in 
the  channel,  over  and  around  which,  the  waters  boil  and 
foam  with  an  angry  roar;  and  thus  above,  and  lielow,  and  on 
every  hand,  for  more  than  TjO  miles,  extends  this  sublime  ex- 
hibition of  nature. 


r 


310 


BBITISn  COL  UMBIA . 


\i 


Trip  No.   2. — From  Victoria  to  liarkervillc,  Cariboo,  via  New 
Westminster',    Yale,  Boston   Bar,    Lyffon,   CooFs  Ferry, 
Ashcroft,  Cache  Creek,  Clinton,  Soda  Creel'  and  (Jiicsnelle; 
returning  tkromjh  the  Kamloops,  Okanagan,  Spaflumchcen 
and  Nicola  country,  1682  miles;  then  to  Alaska,  IGOO  miles. 
Arriving  at  Yale,  I  proceeded  at  ouce  to  the  office  of  the 
British  Columbia  Express  to  secure  a  seat  in  the  stage  leav- 
ing for  Cariboo,  400  miles  north,  the  following  morning. 
As  I  entered,  Mr.  Dodd,  the  obliging  agent,  gravely  remarked 
to  a  clerical  gentleman  who  was  anxious  to  express  a  small 
parcel,  that  there  wasn't  room  on  the  stage  for  a  tooth-pick. 
I  did  not  much  regret  the  detention,  for  it  gave  me  an  op- 
portunity to  examine  the  most  stupendous  undertaking  in 
railway  building  on  the  North  American  continent,  the  con- 
.struction  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  through  the  Cas- 
cade range  of  mountains.     My  readers  are  probably  more 
or  less  familiar  with  the  history  of  the  progress  of  this  great 
iron  highway  across  the  northern  portion  of  the  continent. 
The  necessity  for  such  a  road  through  the  several  Provinces 
of  the  Dominion  for  their  bettor  security  and  more  rapid 
development  becoming  ajipareut,  in  1871  surveying  parti  .^s 
were  sent  out  to  explore  the  comparatively  unknown  regioi: 
through  which,  if  possible,  it  should  pass,  and  report  upon 
the  most  favorable  route.     Over  $3,500,000  have  been  ex- 
pended upon  these  preliminary  surveys.     The  location  of  the 
road  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  being  much  the  less  dif- 
ficult, the  work  of  construction  was  commenced  on  the  east- 
ern section  in  1874,  and  264  miles  completed  and  in  opera- 
tion in  1880;  but  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific 
Coast  no  less  than  11  lines,  aggregating  upwards  of  10,000 
miles,  have  been  surveyed  before  determining  the  best  ter- 
minal point  and  route  thereto.     Port  Mood}^  at  the  head  of 
Burrard  Inlet,   has  finally  been  selected  as  the  Mainland 
terminus,  and  the  Governor-General,  the  Marquis  of  Lome, 
has  iecently  itated  in  a  public  speech  at  Victoria,  that  the 
road  will  probably  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  by  the  Kick- 
ing Horse  Pass.    An  agreement  for  the  coustrucMon  of  ♦he 
road  having  been   entered   into  between  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  and  a  syndicate  of  ca])italiKt8,  Mr.   A.  Onderdonk, 


THE  CANADIAN  rACTFTO    RAILROAD. 


811 


an  experioncecl  railroad  builder,  became  the  managing  con- 
tractor for  that  portion  of  the  western  division  extending  from 
Fort  Moody  to  Savonas  Ferry,  a  distance  of  212  miles.  It 
presented  greater  difficulties  than  have  ever  been  overcome 
in  railway  building.  For  nearly  GO  miles,  from  Yale  to  Lyt- 
ton,  the  river  has  cut  through  the  lofty  Cascade  Range, 
thousands  of  feet  below  the  summits.  Mountain  spurs  of 
granite  rock,  with  perpendicular  faces  hundreds  of  feet  in 
height,  project  at  short  intervals  along  the  entire  passage. 
IJetween  them  are  deep  lateral  gorges,  canons  and  plunging 
cataracts.  On  this  GO  miles  of  tunnels,  rock  work  and 
bridges,  the  greater  portion  of  Mr.  Onderdonk's  construc- 
tion army  of  7000  men  have  been  engaged  siiKie  1880. 
The  loud  roar  of  enormous  discharges  of  giant  powder 
has  almost  constantly  reverberated  among  the  moun- 
tains. Fifteen  tunnels  have  been  bored,  one  IGOU  feet 
in  length,  and  millions  of  tons  of  rock  blasted  and 
rolled  with  the  noise  of  an  avalanche  into  the  rushing,  boil- 
ing Fraser;  workmen  have  been  suspended  by  ro}ies  hun- 
dreds of  feet  down  the  perpendicular  sides  of  the  mountains 
to  blast  a  foothold;  supplies  ha\e  been  packed  in  upon  the 
backs  of  mules  and  horses,  ovei  trails  where  the  Indians 
were  accustomed  to  use  ladders,  and  building  materials 
landed  upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  at  an  enormous 
expense,  and  crossed  in  Indian  canoes.  It  is  estimated  that 
portions  of  this  work  have  cost  $300,000  to  the  mile. 

Following  the  line  of  this  great  road  through  the  moun- 
tains to  Cook's  Ferry,  about  75  miles  from  Yale,  I  proceeded 
from  thence  over  300  miles  north,  to  the  gold  fields  of  Cari- 
boo, returning  through  the  Kamloop,  Okanagau,  Spallum- 
cheen  and  Nicola  country.  Having  fluished  my  travels  in 
the  interior,  I  then  examined  the  West  Coast  for  about  800 
miles  northward  into  Alaska,  visiting  most  of  the  Indian 
tribes  upon  the  mainland  and  on  the  islands  of  the  Gulf  of 
Gorgia.  For  the  tourist  and  sportsman,  it  is  a  region  of 
unparalleled  attractions,  and  there  are  many  localities  in  the 
interior  of  the  Province  Avliich  can  be  highly  recommended 
for  those  health-seekers  M'ho  require  a  dry,  sunnj',  equable 
and  stimulating  climate. 


